momentary switch wiring

Hey I'm looking for some help with a momentary switch. I added actuators to my truck and everything works great, I'm just trying to add a switch so that I can lock and unlock the doors from the inside of the truck when the keys are in the ignition. Here are some images of the switch. I'm not sure what all the terminals are for, I was expecting a 3 terminal switch for maybe ground, lock pulse and unlock pulse.... Any help? it's a 12v momentary switch i picked up from a local electronics store.

just an FYI its a 96 Nissan D21 Hardbody. DEI Actuators and an ASTRA 600 alarm.

Is it lighted?

My first instinct would be that when the switch is pushed the two outer pins on the side being pushed are connected. The middle, I am not totally sure about, but it would be a good place to connect for a light.

Time to break out the DMM.

what would be the easiest way to test with the DMM? I wouldn't be sure what I'm testing for. Continuity through the outer pins?

Here is an updated. I tested for continuity when the switch was pressed and heres what I got.

(Sorry i'm at work and all I have is paint :-) )



My next question is what will the wiring look like on an after market actuator 2 wire system. Will it simply be ground and (+) lock pulse, and then ground (-) unlock pulse? And if that's the case what is the unused terminal on the switch for? Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

bah! I made a mistake in my diagram. Made this one a little bit clearer! Sorry for my mistake!

You should use this switch to drive the relays that drive the actuators.  If your alarm has built in relays you can either add external relays (in a 5 wire config) or you can possibly open the unit up and solder wires on to the (-) side of the relay coils inside the alarm brain. 

You would connect the middle pin to ground and then use the outer pins to trigger the respective relay.

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Kevin Pierson

The 2 unused terminals are probably lighting. 

no lighting on this bad boy. I opened up the switch and the two terminals do nothing. Not sure why they're there...

Right;  switch is a Spal* type 5 wire window lifter switch rated at 20 amps. First comment; if you have existing relays to control your locks, wire centre terminal to ground and one outer to lock, other to unlock.  Actually just re-read your post and from your description that's what you have. so one outer terminal will pulse lock, the other outer unlock. That's assuming your pulse (switching) wires are neg going, if pos, just feed 12v+ at 3amps to the switch. For everyone's edification, that switch may also control locks without relays, then looking at the photos, left terminal motor wire one way, 2nd left ground, centre 12v+ , next ground and outer right motor wire other way. This gives you the classic ground at rest as used by most window motors and locking solenoids. N.B. For illumination, later versions of that switch had a 6th. terminal. * Also used as factory switches on Renaults, Fiat/Alfa Romeos and most aftermarket power window kits.

you da man! I'll try to wire it up next weekend. Thanks everyone! I'll post an update after I try it.