hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109748
Printed Date: May 16, 2025 at 12:19 AM
Topic: hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape
Posted By: terrytcl
Subject: hornet 570t, 2006 ford escape
Date Posted: December 14, 2008 at 7:06 PM
All done installing a Hornet 570T system in a 2006 Ford Escape. Also using a 29402 bypass module. I have been using the wiring info from here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~91795 i haven't hooked up the lock/unlock lines from the 570t, because it seems that the OEM remote for keyless entry still works while the car is running. i have tested my connection and the car starts up and only runs for 10 seconds. i verified that i have the right hookup for the tach wire. i tried to teach the 570t to run on tach mode, but it still only runs for 10 seconds. i'm not sure if it's due to the fact that i'm not 100% certain if i have the security disarm line correctly hooked up. i have it going to a blue/lt green line in the driver side kick panel. i'm sending a ground signal to it when the remote start is activated. i also do not have the keysense line hooked up as someone mentioned that it would work without it. i tested the car with the key in the cylinder and still only runs for 10 seconds. so, is the 570t not running correctly in tach mode? or is it because i don't have the factory alarm disabled properly. here are some pictures of my work so far. also, the instructions talk about the SJB. where is it? is it the connections to the back of the fuse/relay (SJB) unit? because the connector to the front of the SJB does not have the wires as listed in the instructions. 
connection showing that i've tapped the tach wire of the spark coil. 
here's the picture of the passenger side panel for the SJB... there's only one connector to it. 
Replies:
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 14, 2008 at 11:42 PM
If you're using a t-tap for your tach connection too, that may be the reason that it's only running for 10 seconds. I've fixed plenty of other installers' jobs which had problems with that method.
I strongly suggest using a Scotchlok, butt connector, or solder if you're having problems there. Also make sure you've connected to the wire color which is NOT shared with the adjacent coil. 10 seconds running pretty much rules out a problem with the immobilizer or the factory alarm.
Also as far as the SJB - I recently did an '06 Mariner(basically the same car) and had to remove the center console to get at all the wires. There are (I think) 3 connectors on the back side and 2 on the front.
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: December 15, 2008 at 11:33 AM
thanks for the info chris. so, it sounds like my problem is due to the tach wire not being sound and not the factory alarm system. i don't think i need to get to the sjb unit as all of my wires are hooked up. i'll double check the tach wire and try again. thanks
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: December 15, 2008 at 3:37 PM
chris, one question how do you remove that center console? i tried everything. found 11 screws total (4 in the front both sides, 2 middle both sides, and 4 in the compartment under the felt pad). just out of curiosity, what wires did you go after in the SJB?
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 15, 2008 at 4:33 PM
To remove the center console, if I remember right(I should since it was only last week):
The trim ring immediately around the shifter came up first. Then the larger trim piece with the cupholders(obviously the storage door was open to do this, and the piece was just clipped in). That required shifter in D, e-brake fully up, and power outlet disconnected.
After that there was 1 screw on either side in front under the main dash(these 2 were concealed by the above trim panel), 1 screw on either side at the very front down by the floor, 1 on either side about halfway back the length of the console, and 1 on either side at the very back.
I also removed the 4 underneath the felt pad; however I don't think they were necessary. I think if the 8 I listed above are out then the whole console just slides back, up, and out.
Obviously you can get a ton of wires at the SJB - I think I tagged the factory arm/disarm, driver's unlock motor lead(for priority unlocking), door trigger/dome supervision, and brake. I didn't bother with the resistance lock wire since the arm/disarm will operate the doors even with the engine on(unlock takes 2 pulses).
Also the (-) parking lights and horn I just connected at the column because they were easier to wire into there(the harnesses they're in at the SJB are the ones that go upward).
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: December 15, 2008 at 5:11 PM
thanks again for your response. does the escape have any tach wire connections inside the cabin? i noticed that maybe the engine control unit (ecu) is located in the middle behind the center console? i'm going to try fixing the tach wire tonight. and maybe get the center console apart to hook up the right wires at the sjb. thanks
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 15, 2008 at 9:14 PM
I don't believe there's an inside tach connection.
Also not sure, but I believe the engine ECU is actually mounted through the firewall with connectors on the underhood side of it.
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: December 30, 2008 at 10:29 PM
can't believe it, but still having problems with this car... i got it to work for a couple times, but then soldered the tach pickup wire... and then it went back to the 10 second running. i've checked signal at the other end and i get 600-800mV AC. this is killing me. i think i'm going to go back and try a differenet coil wire. anyone having similar problems with an escape?
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 12:01 AM
i'm looking at the 2006 wiring diagram. it says to pick up the 12 volt constant at the battery, but if you look in the ignition harness, there's a constant 12 volt wire there. any reason why to go to the battery instead of the wire harness? shouldn't current drawn for the ignition and accessory wires be from that 12 volt constant wire in the harness? why go to the battery?
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 12:03 AM
tried a different tach wire, and still not working. the unit will not learn to run on tach instead of voltage level. 
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 6:35 PM
Hmm...which wire are you connected to now for your tach? DEI's tach sensing usually works pretty well with any kind of signal.
The reason for getting 12V from the battery is the low current rating of the constant 12V that supplies the ignition switch. (It's fused at something like 7.5A or 10A on your Escape, not the 40,50 or 60 amps that conventional heavy gauge ignition switches would have.) If you were to add, to the minimal current draw of the factory ignition switch wires, such common things as (+) parking lights or directly driven door locks, it could easily blow that fuse and the car obviously wouldn't start until you replaced it.
You don't necessarily have to run to the battery for 12V though. The fusebox/SJB has high current 12V inputs available, and the ignition switch 12V wire would be usable if you were doing (-) parking lights and (-) lock/unlock. (The control module itself as well as any external relays will draw around 1 amp or less.)
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 8:59 PM
chris, i have it hooked up to a coil wire that's not red. i think it's green with a black stripe. there's only 2 wires on the coil, so basically, it's the one that's not the red one. i went ahead an ran a line to the battery. still same results so far. still troubleshooting.
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: January 01, 2009 at 8:10 PM
is there anyway that the remote start can run on voltage sense? i took out the 570t and installed a Valet 562t unit. still same result. vehicle shuts down after 10 seconds of running on remote start
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 01, 2009 at 9:45 PM
Yes, voltage sense could work. Tach's preferable to me on most cars because it doesn't over/undercrank the starter. Also, have you tried using a fuel injector? It's kind of weird but I just thought I may have had problems using an ignition coil on a Ford as my tach source during several installs. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: January 02, 2009 at 11:15 AM
chris, i was actually thinking the same thing. i've been looking for an injector wire to tap to, but can't even see the connectors to it without removing the intake manifold. there are 2 main connectors that the injector harness and the coil harness are going to. i've disconnected both and found the coil wires that go to those connectors. i can't figure out which ones are the injector wires. any ideas? don't want to remove the intake manifold.
Posted By: aaronrs4
Date Posted: January 02, 2009 at 1:57 PM
When you use the remote start, does the "THEFT" light on the dash start flashing? If so, re-program your bypass module... It should light up constant. When you did your Tach learning procedure, did the LED light up constant on the remote starter? If not, you dont have an adequate tach signal... Try changing the tach threshold jumper and see if that helps. I thought I did an Escape the other week that I was able to get at the fuel injectors by just taking the big worthless cover off the engine and they were right there. That might not have been an Escape though, this time of year its all a blur... Good luck
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Install it like everyone will see EVERY part of it.
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: January 02, 2009 at 5:36 PM
guys, found the tan/black wire for injector #5. tapped into that wire via solder. much better tach signal as i can get the remote starter to recognize the signal, however the car still dies after a coule seconds. i'm using a valet key within the bypass unit. car starts up fine. actually, i also tried just putting a key into the ignition cylinder and activating the remote starter. same results. i'm not sure what's going on. i do not believe this car has a factory alarm system. does the factory alarm disable need to be connected? i hooked up a - signal wire to the wire within the SJB... (finally got to it, thanks chris).... with the factory alarm disable line connected, i still get the same result.
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: January 12, 2009 at 4:34 PM
ok, got the car running for a couple days running on the RS. was able to teach the RS unit to run on tach mode. but, now after a couple days, the RS unit forgot the tach signal and is trying to run on voltage mode again. any thoughts? i checked all of the connections for the tach. they can't be better than they are right now.
Posted By: terrytcl
Date Posted: January 12, 2009 at 4:50 PM
want to add - for those of you guys looking to install a RS on an escape. do not use a coil wire for tach input. the injector wire is much better with a much better voltage level.
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