I need help. Expert help prefered.... OK I hooked up a remote start / security system and I will get a check engine light and trans goes into limp in mode when started with the remote starter. It sets DTCs (p0740 tcc circuit malfunction) + (p0785 shift timing solenoid malfunction) + (p1860 manufacturer control transmission). It only does this when using remote start. I drove the car a few days after clearing the codes and never used the remote start function & it never went into limp in mode or set any pending or hard codes. the first time you start it with the remote starter it will set the 3 pending codes I mentioned earlier and goes into limp in mode. While it is in limp in mode (from being remotely started) you can turn the engine off and restart with the key and it is no longer in limp in mode. So her is what I think... I am not sending power to somewhere when I am remote starting the vehicle. Here is what the instructions for the rs/ss are.
from rs/ss---to---vehicle
yellow wire---connected to---crank wire (yellow on vehicle)
brown wire---connected to---run wire (i have it connected to the pink wire on vehicle)
blue wire---connected to---the accessory wire (i have it connected to the brown wire on vehicle)
green---connect to---air conditioner (i do not have this wire hooked up to anything)
and of course i have power and ground (red & black) to the rs/ss module. Do i need to hook up the the vehicles second ignition (white) and the vehicle also has 2 acc wires do both of them need connected or just one of them... I'm getting frustrated and need expert help PLEASE!!! I would even be willing to give my phone # or call you to get some help with this.....
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25msojr
There's another thread on this same problem...different vehicle, but same problem. Hook up your second ignition wire and it should go away. Does the HVAC system turn on with the current accy wire you have hooked up? If it does, then you shouldn't need to hook up the 2nd accy wire. If it doesn't then switch it to the orange accy. wire.
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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..
OK so you are saying that if the pink ignition wire from the vehicle and the white (second ignition wire from vehicle should both be spliced to the brown (on or run wire from my rs/ss module)???
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25msojr
your second ignition wire should be solid white. this should be hooked up to your remote starter's second ignition output(whatever color it is) if by some chance you dont have a second ignition output you should use a relay to make one
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You need to have ign 1 and ign 2, accy 1 and accy 2, all wired in, with your ign 2 (white wire) must power up before ign 1 use some sort of active while running to do that.
Posting the model of the remote start would be helpful. We might be able to tell you exactly how to hook up your second ignition. No matter what, this wire has to be hooked up..... Where did you get your install info from. Gm has been known since the 90's to have tranny problems if the second ign. Isn't powered during remote start. Do not remote start the vehicle anymore until you get this wire powered up.
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The box the rs/ss came in said "Royal Guard" but in the ebay ad it was described as, and had a pic of the remote with the name "Hautai" printed on it and said model # HT-800D. I bought it on e-bay. for $89.99 delivered. Other than the descrepency or confusion about the name and model number of the unit. So far I am completely satisfied with it. It even came with a trunk release solinoid that I don't even want or need. I did however manage to figure out that the green wire from the remote start ECU that was labeled "----(+)-to air conditioner-->" in the rs/ss owners manual wiring schematic should have been spliced to the second ignition (wite wire of the vehicle's ignition switch) where as I had nothing spliced into at first causing the transmission DTCs I mentioned earlier. Now, as for the accessory 1 and accessory 2 connections; as it stands right now I only have the blue wire from thrs/ss ecu, labeled in the owners manual schematic as "---+--ACCESSORY-->" connected to the orange accessory 1 circuit of the vehicle. This connection gets power to the HVAC control head and blower ect. amongst other things. This eems to be working out pretty darn good. I need to realy study the power distribution schematics for the accessory 2 circuit to determine if it is realy nessicary to even worry about supplying power to that circuit while running via remote start-up. (any advice on that would be appreciated. Anyway, here is a link https:////ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360112313224&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem= to the ebay page that shows the AD for the system I bought. I would also like to thank the people that have replied to me and my posts, as well as, apoligize if I have broken any rules of the forum or anything like that. I am new to using this forums kind of thing, though I feel lucky to have stumbled upon this "the12volt.com" web site... Very cool and right up my alley. I am an ASE Certified Master Technician A1-A8 & L1; Toyota Certified Master Diagnostic Technician (currently); and have several certs in GM and Chrysler. I have always said no way would I have one of these after market dudes on my car; they have always just been a big pain in my a## considering the dealership environment that I work in, but really this install was not to bad and as of right now I only see a couple of very minor bugs in the overall... 1.) sometimes when I disarm/unlock with the aftermarket remote the siren chirps twice like it should but the doors do not unlock and since the remote has one button for (lock/unlock) if you just keep trying it will un-lock.....EXAMPLE---- 1 press = 2 chirps and unlock failed, 2nd = 1 chip and locks cycle to lock even though they are already locked, & 3rd press = 2 chirps and unlock will be sucessful. ........BUG....#2.) The locks are cycled to lock after 10 or 15 sec of drive time the first time you step on the brake and it is supposed to function like this.... but when it does the dome lights give you a quick flash and that will make me crazy. well I have to go for now but I'll check bac in tomarrow. Thanks
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25msojr
You shouldn't need to power up the second acc. wire. I think it just powers up the radio, wipers...etc. Things that are not needed during remote start.
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