’02 monte carlo remote start issues

I've done my best to research this topic, and though there were some promising leads, nothing I tried helped. So now I bring my issue in the form of a new topic!

I'm attempting to install a Bulldog RS1100remote starter, using a T-Harness and their 791 Bypass for the Passlock II defeat. I've wired everything as noted in the manual, and probed and double checked my connections as well. The problem basically exists in that after attempting a remote start, the relays click, power out as they should, but the vehicle won't crank. In my search, it was recommended that I use a relay to power my second accessory circuit, and even after attempting that this afternoon, the car still won't crank. I am assuming that the bypass is working, as no "Security" message is flashing on an attempted startup, and the car won't crank with the key in the ignition, turned to "Run". The problem basically exists in that after attempting a remote start, the relays click, power out as they should, but the vehicle won't crank. In my search, it was recommended that I use a relay to power my second accessory circuit, and even after attempting that this afternoon, the car still won't crank.

If I haven't provided enough info, please let me know and I'll do my best to post back with the necessary stuff! Thanks for taking a look and hopefully shedding some light on things.

hello-I was wondering if you have anything connected to the Brown wire at the ignition switch.  If you do, undo your connection at this wire and try it.  If it works just leave the Brown wire alone.  All you'll lose is windshield wipers while remote started.  No offense but Bulldog is not hgh quality-just drop the "dog" and add doodie

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I did connect the brown power wire (secondary accessory) via a relay triggered by the primary accessory from the starter. I did that this afternoon. Previously, I didn't have it attached, and the vehicle didn't crank then either.

I don't disagree that Bulldog is low-end. However, it's responding to the remote, and activating the relays as needed. I think it's a larger issue in the ignition switch or with the vehicle. With the ignition wires connected directly to 12V+, and attempting to power the crank circuit also to 12V+, it won't turn over.

In all honesty, I've exhausted my knowledge, so I appreciate all feed back. Thanks!

First off, try doing a valet take-over(i.e. start the car with the key, activate the remote starter, and turn the key off). The car should stay running and all accessories(heater blower, windows, radio) should operate.

If any accessories don't work, one of the wires is being powered improperly or not at all by the remote start. Also, you don't mention how your relay is connected for the brown accessory wire, but that wire cannot receive power during cranking. I do believe that the only heavy gauge wires at the switch should be:

• Red x2 - Constant 12v
• Pink - Ignition 1
• Green - Ignition 2
• Yellow - Starter
• Orange - Accessory 1
• Brown - Accessory 2

If the car does not do a proper valet take-over, then the problem is likely that one of the ignitions is not powered properly, or the tach is not programmed/connected correctly(if connected at all).

If the car does a proper valet take-over, then the problem may be that the starter wire or one of the accessories is not powering properly. Another problem in this case could be the 791 bypass being connected/programmed incorrectly.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Hi, thanks for the response.

I'd never heard/thought of the valet take-over, but it's a perfect way to check on things one step further! Anyway, I tried it, and the car does a proper valet take over. Also, all accessories are powered properly (HVAC, radio, wipers) during the valet take-over.

Also, the relay for the brown accessory wire is wired 12V+constant comes from one of the 12V+ constant leads to the remote starter. The trigger for the relay is from the the accessory wire (there's only one) from the remote starter. I can feel it kick on after the engine attempts to crank. I checked, and there is 12V+ from both ignition wires during cranking, as well as the crank wire.

In regards to the bypass, I'm following the programming instructions, but am unsure of the truth of the bypass. Do you know if placing the key in the "Run" position would but the proper resistance through the Passlock mechanism, or will it only place the proper resistance when the key is in the crank position? I know that I've tried to remote start with the key in "Run", to no avail.

You are totally right on the heavy gauge wires at the switch, and I believe that I have them all accounted for at the remote starter, with the brown one wired from the relay. Again, thanks for your responses! I'm sure I'll get it figured out with all you guys' help!

IIRC the Passlock code gets sent when the key is turned to the crank position, however momentarily, and stays active until the key is turned to off.
Therefore if you turn it very quickly to "crank" and release it before the car starts, and then are able to perform a successful remote start, it would suggest a problem with your bypass.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Good morning! I'm not sure I did it the correct way, though I tried several. I put the key in the run position, and then just cranked it quickly, putting it back in run before it started. I left the key in run, and attempted to remote start, with the same results: relays clicking, bypass LED lighting and then nothing. However, at one point, it seemed as though the remote starter was keeping the key from being able to crank the engine. After attempting to remote start, with the key in run, the remote starter thinks that it is running if everything is on (this starter has a tachless mode of operation). So, if I remember right, if I turned the key to "run" attempted to remote start, the start relay would click, and the the accessories would come on. At that point, I wasn't able to crank the engine with the key. However, if I turned the remote starter off, and then back on, holding the key in the crank position the whole time, the vehicle started. So, seeing this makes me think that something is indeed wrong with the bypass, assuming that while the key in the crank position, it is continually setting the appropriate Passlock resistance, and when the crank wire was powered, the car cranked on.

In this case, does anyone have any idea how to troubleshoot this bypass. I read through Bulldog's Bypass FAQ to no avail, and their troubleshooting guide is rather short on info for the bypass. I will probably try to call them today and see what suggestions they have, if I can get through on the phone. If I hear anything, I'll post it back here, and in the mean time, I appreciate all the suggestions. Thanks!

I called them, and Tech Support thinks it's a bad module. I sent it in this afternoon for service, but they said it would be 2-3 weeks. I'm an impatient person by nature, so I'm wondering if there are any suggestions for a similar, compatible, inexpensive bypass. All the help and suggestions have been great. Any suggestions on the bypass? Thanks!

use the "old" relay and resistor bypass

A while back I tried a GMBP on GM vehicles and have not looked back since. No cut wires, simple one soldered wire to the purple at the OBDII plug. It has proved almost bullet proof for me. Not exactly the cheapest alternative(relay/resistor method can't be beat for price) but it's reliable and easy.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

A PLJX or PLZAP would also work well - GMBP supplies seem pretty short during the peak season right now (Bypasskit's out of them and my local distributor's down to 3).

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I scored a cheap cheap 555LW. I intend on installing another remote starter on my wife's Impala, so I figured I couldn't go wrong with this. I have a friend who is looking at having me put one in his Grand Prix(I don't know why, I barely can manage with the one in my Monte!) so I'll take a look at both the PLJX and GMBP. Thanks again, I'll let you know when everything is up and running!

Well, the UPS man dropped by with a new 791 bypass, and I figured this would be the last step, and I'd have a fully operable remote start. Not so, the thing still won't work, and exhibits the same issues as previously. So maybe it's not the bypass, and maybe it is. It does everything but start the vehicle; it will lock and unlock, run the accessories during an attempted remote start, and even do the valet take-over. But that's about it. I tried calling their customer support, and they of course were already closed. I'll try them in the morning, and again would appreciate any suggestions on where to chase the gremlin in the system now. Thanks.

If you are able to do a valet take over, that that tells you that all the right ignition wires are powered. you either have an acc ouput connected to an ignition and it drops out durring cranking, or, you still have a passlock problem.

I have two ignition wires connected to the RS, both correctly, and one accessory wire. I have two accessory wires to power, so I relay powered the second wire, using the primary accessory wire as the power for the relay coil. I tested, and all the outputs are coming on when they're supposed to, so I'm guessing it's still a Passlock problem. Thanks for the hint though.

adryan16,

Try manually grounding the remote start input to the bypass. I don't know if I mentioned earlier that the ground output might not be strong enough to drive a relay and a bypass? See what that does for you.

Also, since you mentioned potentially doing a Grand Prix, I'll point out that the immobilizer bypass will be slightly different. Grand Prixs came with either VATS('92?-'96), no immobilizer('97-'99), or Passkey III('00-'03). PLJX would work for VATS, GMBP would work for Passkey III.
'04 and up use the PKU-GM.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Chris,

I want to be sure that I understand what you are suggesting. Do you mean to just use a jumper wire or such connected to a ground at one end and connect the bypass output wire from the bypass, or ground the wire for the bypass input to the remote starter?

The bypass is powered from the same 12V+ constant that the remote starter is, and then grounded via the ground from the Passlock circuit. This diagram shows the wire layout for the bypass. The blue wire in this diagram is connected to the white wire in this diagram. I'm assuming that these are the wires you are mentioning, though I'm not entirely sure of their purpose and method of activation.

Thanks for the info on the Grand Prix. I hadn't looked into it yet, and assumed that another similar year W-body car as my Monte would have the same anti-theft system. I'm glad you mentioned things. I read a little bit more into the GMBP and other databus bypasses, and they sure seem like the ticket.

Thanks again for the help!

From your diagram - you'd be grounding the blue "(-) activation input". This is to rule out the possibility that the remote starter is not putting out enough current on that wire to activate the bypass.


Agreed that the W-body is bizarre as far as the anti-theft, which I tend to cite as an example. From '00 to '03 the Impala/Monte Carlo had Passlock, the Century/Regal had VATS, and the Grand Prix had Passkey III. Also much of the switching is vastly different(e.g. Monte Carlo locks are negative through a resistor, Regal and Grand Prix would both be straight negative, but the wire colors are different). I don't know what it says about GM engineering that they couldn't eliminate minor differences like this that the customer would never notice.



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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Chris,

Thanks again for your reply; you've been a lot of help in diagnosing this! Through reading through quite a few manuals and other notes concerning my particular bypass and remote starter, I stumbled upon something noting that the blue wire out of the bypass would be grounding the system when it's activated, which is how you explained it as well. In lieu of this, I did yesterday hook up a jumper wire to a ground, and tried to remote start it, with the same no-start results. However, in one of the bypass FAQ sections on the Bulldog Security website, they explain the way to clear the resistance memory by grounding the blue wire and hooking the harness back into the unit. I'm a bit confused on how this should work. It seems confounding that the module needs to be grounded to activate the bypass, and also grounded (as basically a jumper) to clear the EPROM. However, if you read below it states:"The BLUE wire on 791 may not be receiving a ground from the main unit while Remote Starting. Check this wire for GROUND when you press START on the Remote Starter." I didn't check it for ground when I pressed start, so I'll do that this evening.

Thanks again for the help!

Adryan,

The "memory clearing" procedure makes sense to me since you've mentioned it - many other bypasses(e.g. Bypasskit) have something similar, where there is a "program" button which is held in while the unit is being plugged in, and this resets its memory. The electrical reasons for this are a bit beyond me however :-)

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I don't want to bring up an older thread, but I did want to post as to the resolution of my situation. I ended up purchasing a PLJX, and my problems were fixed! The system remote starts with no problem, and the wiring for the bypass was relatively simple.

I wired in the door lock/unlock harness with resistor, as well as the relay for the (-) trunk release. There is a note on the wiring diagram from the Bulldog Security website that states:
"NOTE *3 An extra Relay part #775 is needed for the (-)Negative Parking Light Isolation Circuit on this vehicle."

Could someone explain to me the necessity of this? Out of curiosity, I wired in the the remote starter directly to the parking light wire at the BCM, and it seems to me that everything works just fine; the lights flash as confirmation of a signal received.

Thanks again for the help, it's been WAY more helpful than the questionable at best quality of service I've received from Bulldog.

Apparently there's sometimes a problem if that white (-) parking lights wire from the BCM sees a ground and the light switch is not sending the "parking lights on" signal - this could cause the "service vehicle" message.

If you don't have this problem, it's nothing to worry about. If that message does come on, I would suggest just cutting that white wire, inserting a diode with the striped side towards the BCM, and connecting the output from your remote starter on the non-striped side.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I see, thanks for clearing that up. I do now have a SES light, but I attributed it to multiple starts and shutdowns, without really letting the engine warm up. Before I begin cutting and soldering, I'll pull the codes and see if it is in fact referencing an issue with the parking lights or if it's something else.

This site is a wealth of information, and I doubt I could have gotten everything installed without it! Thanks again to everyone!