viper 5301, anyone?
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Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109794
Printed Date: May 15, 2025 at 3:19 PM
Topic: viper 5301, anyone?
Posted By: gunn1
Subject: viper 5301, anyone?
Date Posted: December 16, 2008 at 9:24 AM
I've done my homework and I'm about to purchase the Viper 5301 and XK531. Haven't heard a whole lot about the 5301 in the forum, I assume because it's pretty new. There have been a couple of requests for install manuals, but there is not one in the download section yet. Is this unit more or less the same hookup as some of the other DEI products that I could take a look at beforehand? Any recommendations? I already have the manual for the XK531 and am trying to map it all out. Only thing I'm trying to avoid is the 5301 being way different than what I've already looked at, and now knowing how to hook it all up. Thanks, Tom
Replies:
Posted By: gunn1
Date Posted: December 16, 2008 at 9:28 AM
Damn, messed up the topic; should have been "Viper 5301; anyone install it?" Don't see a way to modify my post! "You cannot edit your posts in this forum" Sorry about that!
Posted By: pro2aria
Date Posted: December 17, 2008 at 12:58 AM
The 5301 is pretty similar to the viper systems of past. The viper systems for this year now all feature onboard relay packs. So no more ribbon cables and satellite relay packs for the all in one systems. This system also offers the use of a 'Flex relay.' Basically it is the standard second ign out, although it can be programmed to be 2nd accy or 2nd starter. It also offers a 87a for the flex relay, though I've yet to have a use for it. This system offers an 87a for the parking light output for isolated parking light circuits, which speeds things along for PkL circuits that need to be isolated from the switch (IE rest @ ground). The system offers a new voltage sense technology called virtual tach which is supposed to be much better than the conventional voltage sense, although I play it safe and hook up tach anyway. Why not. It only takes what another 2 minutes? Also has the capibility to dock the New XK modules directly to the unit, but we use the older ones so I can't say whether or not this is any good. If you have a bit writer this system will require you to upgrade the CMOS of your bit writer. Good luck and any more questions I'd be glad to help.
Posted By: pro2aria
Date Posted: December 17, 2008 at 1:02 AM
About the XK531. I happen to like this bypass mod, although I know a bunch of installers who hate it. Some advice, when programming the unit it may be easier to crack the box open and hold the transponder up the the cylinder. I find this to be much easier than trying to program it via the induction loop.
Posted By: dued
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 11:23 PM
i bought the viper 5301 2way remote and had it installed in a 1998 honda crv - it worked at first, but then when it was very cold, it would shut off fairly quickly - took it in and they reset it from "virtual tach" to tach (the tach wire had previously been hooked up)
two things then happened after that- about 30 mins after picking it up, an electrical burn smell appeared in the car - turns out the dashboard light dimmer had burned out - was this a coincidence? could it have been related to simply resetting the 5301 from virtual tach to tach? i noted that even with the dimmer switch burned out, when the 5301 is activated, the dashboard lights come on initially, so it must be delivering initial current in a separate circuit to the unit as well as to the ignition
thE second thing is now the engine doesn't stay on after activation - it cycles on and off about every minute or so
does this indicate the need for it to use the voltage instead of the tach? if it turns out to not be defective unit (or install), what might be a solution?
thanks
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 12:03 AM
gunn1, I have the 5301 sitting in front of me. However, I'm leaning towards the 5501, as it has a 1-mile range. If you need any info on the 5301 just ask. Also, let me know how the range is, if you get it installed in the next few days.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 12:11 AM
dued, this indicates an installation error. I would contact the shop and ask for a manager to be on-site for a possible damage claim. You will need to be in the bay with the manager during the inspection. I had always allowed my customers in the bay during a damage inspection. It can help relieve any tension the customer might have and allow them to watch what is being doen, as well as show them you are confident about your installation. In this situation, it seems logical to assume an installation error.
Posted By: dued
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 12:33 AM
thanks for your response loneranger
regarding the dimmer burnout problem, it seemed logical to me as well that there was some installation error - this didn't occur after the initial hard installation though - it occurred after the first repair attempt when they said that all they did was reprogram the already sensor from virtual tach to tach
so one of my questions is if simply making that "programming" switch could cause the failure? they claim they didn't touch the wiring at that time
the second question was, since the 5301 still does not operate correctly on the (non-virtual) tachometer setting, whether this implies that it will need to use the voltage system (with all the calibration that will need to go on with that approach, since the weather can change dramatically from well below zero to quite warm) - they told me by phone that they found some ford trucks will only work using the voltage (and not the tach or virtual tach) sensor setting
thanks again
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 12:58 AM
dued]t wrote:
anks for your response loneranger
so one of my questions is if simply making that "programming" switch could cause the failure? they claim they didn't touch the wiring at that time
thanks again
It is possible to cause a failure if a menu option improperly set. However, that menu would have nothing to do with the tach. dued]t wrote:
anks for your response loneranger
the second question was, since the 5301 still does not operate correctly on the (non-virtual) tachometer setting, whether this implies that it will need to use the voltage system (with all the calibration that will need to go on with that approach, since the weather can change dramatically from well below zero to quite warm) - they told me by phone that they found some ford trucks will only work using the voltage (and not the tach or virtual tach) sensor setting
thanks again
That I can't answer.
Posted By: dued
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 1:41 AM
loneranger wrote:
dued]
wrote:
br>
so one of my questions is if simply making that "programming" switch could cause the failure? they claim they didn't touch the wiring at that time
It is possible to cause a failure if a menu option improperly set. However, that menu would have nothing to do with the tach.
thanks - i guess i would need to be able to logically mechanically show them that this is the case, as they insisted that it wasn't possible to cause an electrical failure of anything else simply as a result of improper programming - they claimed that there is a fuse associated with the 5301 that would have blown first or else blew out the 5301 unit itself - i guess I will need to get an electrical diagram of the 5301 and the crv so i can see for myself to be able to explain exactly and make the point, if that is the case
one problematic thing now is, i have searched extensively online for hours for a replacement honda crv "dimmer control", and i can't find anyone anywhere who sells replacement parts who carries it (or even references it - i wonder if it is called anything different - i searched for that possibility as well, with no luck) - guess i'll have to call the honda dealer parts dept on monday - hope it is something that can be purchased somewhere (seems it should be as the small part is readily accessible from the interior and can be easily removed and reseated), and if so, that it isn't too expensive
also not sure if the viper 5301 will even work at all now with my honda crv - the installers said that if they use voltage for the sensor (seemingly the last remaining option, unless the current installation can be fine tuned), that depending on the outside temperature, the 5301 could either under-crank or over-crank, which would would either result not starting the vehicle or possibly harming the starter motor
i wonder if all brands have this potential trouble - i understand that viper is a top name (owned by DEI - which also owns the clifford and python brands) and that the 5301 is a good newer model - i just got it 2 weeks ago
thanks again
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 2:42 AM
One question the hangs for me is: Why did they connect the tach and not use it on the initial install. It's possible that they didn't and, in the course of hooking up the tach on your visit, they may have damaged something accidentally and only stated they change a menu option.
Posted By: dued
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 3:16 AM
loneranger wrote:
One question the hangs for me is: Why did they connect the tach and not use it on the initial install. It's possible that they didn't and, in the course of hooking up the tach on your visit, they may have damaged something accidentally and only stated they change a menu option.
they connected the tach wire on the initial install, but apparently didn't program it then specifically to actual tach, instead (for some reason) they let it default to "virtual tach" (which is the default, and i understand, the preferred setting)
when it would stay started though, i took it in for the second time to a different installation location (in a different city), where they stated they simply re-programmed it from virtual tach to actual tach, and that the tach wire was already attached from the initial installation - but it was while driving it immediately after that second visit where they just reprogrammed it (and not after the initial install a week earlier) that the dimmer switch burned out- and with it, the panel lights went blacked out (though as i said, the panel lights do go on briefly whenever the 5301 is started, so they are obviously getting current flow from some temporary alternate circuit associated with the 5301 install)
Posted By: dued
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 3:19 AM
i meant to say
"when it would NOT stay started though, i took it in for the second time..."
Posted By: robertsc
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 10:27 AM
with your dimmer switch blown which lights illuminate when you remote start the vehicle dash , parking or both?
Posted By: dued
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 11:46 AM
robertsc wrote:
with your dimmer switch blown which lights illuminate when you remote start the vehicle
dash , parking or both?
the dash lights for sure - i'll have to check and see if the parking lights do as well
Posted By: gunn1
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 10:41 AM
loneranger wrote:
gunn1, I have the 5301 sitting in front of me. However, I'm leaning towards the 5501, as it has a 1-mile range. If you need any info on the 5301 just ask. Also, let me know how the range is, if you get it installed in the next few days.
Thanks guys. I did indeed purchase the Viper 5301 (Christmas Present for my wife), and am going to order the XK531 today. I started an Excel spreadsheet to map out all of the connections between the Viper, XK531 and Jeep. I'd like to use the D2D cable, as I'll only have to hook up one other wire to the Viper and a wire to the OBDII port, keeping it simple and clean. Anyone have a recommendation on where to purchase the XK531 and the D2D cable? I can't recall if the D2D came with my 5301, and I'm not at home right now to check. Thanks, Tom
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 4:00 PM
any dealer who sells the XK modules will likely stock the D2D cable...it does not come with the XK series modules....
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: dued
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 4:13 PM
as a platinum certified installer, do you have any thoughts on my experiences (above) with the 5301 kerry?
thx
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 10:46 PM
gunn1] wrote:
can't recall if the D2D came with my 5301, and I'm not at home right now to check.
It does not. You will have to purchase it either seperately or as a kit with your module.
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: March 02, 2009 at 4:06 PM
the 5301 has a fuse docked internally that would need to have been physically relocated in order for the parking light output to suddenly change from positive to negative or vice versa.... this is not something that can be done via programming.... changing a menu item from virtual tach to tach cannot in any way effect the parking light circuit....unless the wire is now pinched or shorted in the vehicle... which should have theoretically blown the docked 10 amp fuse..... i would have the install rechecked....
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 4:33 AM
dued,
I'm guessing that the problem with your vehicle is that the parking light output was connected to a wire at the dimmer switch which showed 12 volts with the parking lights switched on, when the installer tested it.
It sounds like he connected it to the dash lights wire(which dims depending on how the switch is rotated), not the wire from the switch(which stays constant). This might not have caused much of a problem with the dimmer switch in full brightness, but could have fried the switch when it was rotated to a less bright position. In all likelihood an honest installation mistake, but if your switch is damaged they should replace it and fix the install.
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: dued
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 9:02 AM
thanks much chris wallace - bestbuy swore it was impossible, but we knew it was too much of a coincidence - the dimmer cost us $50, so with your explanation we will request that cost from them
thanks again
btw, they finally replaced the main computer in the 5301 and we have had no problems with it starting since, so the possibility of some bad units definitely exists which simply changing the trigger doesn't fix
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