remote start 2007 camry manual shift
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=109885
Printed Date: July 12, 2025 at 3:32 PM
Topic: remote start 2007 camry manual shift
Posted By: beantownbrawler
Subject: remote start 2007 camry manual shift
Date Posted: December 19, 2008 at 5:34 PM
Guys, i am new here and could use some help. I just recently installed an Ultra Start 1280XR in my girl's 2003 kia Rio and had no issues and all went well. So, i do have some knowledge with electronics, but, not a ton. My issue is with my 2007 Toyota Camry CE with manual shift. I bought a Compustar 1W900FM-S and am just going over all i need to know before attempting the install. I am confused by the relays and the fact that i will need a bypass module for the immobilizer and will also need to bypass the clutch. Here are my questions: 1. How do i go about bypassing the clutch? 2. The guy who sold me the unit also sold me the pass4 bypass module, but, the harness does not match up with the brain. Which bypass module is the correct one?? 3. Can someone with knowledge of the Compustars, explain the main 8 pin harness to me. Why is there a green wire for the parking lights on the main harness and another on the 18 pin harness. Sounds like overkill to me. I really appreciate any help you guys can give me on this.
Replies:
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 19, 2008 at 5:59 PM
IS YOUR UNIT MANUAL SAFE????? pro compustars came with selectable tranny, but not sure about the one you have. if you got a autoremote start, go pick up a VSS unit or DEI 689M. to make your car manual start safe. 1. How do i go about bypassing the clutch?
the clutch will either be negative or posive system. take a dmm and test the wires at the clutch to see. if its negative there will be one wire that is always grounded and the other wire will go to ground when the clutch is pressed to the floor. if this is the case take your Ground While Running or status output wire it to a relay and send a negative to that wire. if it 12v +, one will test 12v with key in ignition start position. other shows 12v when clutch is pushed down. if this is the case then take your start wire from the rs unit and wire it straight to the wire that shows 12v when clutch is pushed.
2. The guy who sold me the unit also sold me the pass4 bypass module, but, the harness does not match up with the brain.
Which bypass module is the correct one?? well that is a bypass that works, but its a CRAPPY one. sorry but thats a KIB meaning you must leave a key of yours inside to do the bypass. I suggest you fork out the extra 25 dollars and get a DATA bypass since that PASS 4 is about 14 dollars. with DATA bypasses, it learns the info from the key so you dont leave a key inside the car, more reliable, need to say more? the harness is not suppose to mach up since differant manufatures use differant colours of wiring. refer to wiring diagram always. many companies sell them and they all work great. here are some companies i suggest: bypasskits, Fortin, iDataLink
3. Can someone with knowledge of the Compustars, explain the main 8 pin harness to me. Why is there a green wire for the parking lights on the main harness and another on the 18 pin harness. Sounds like overkill to me. I really appreciate any help you guys can give me on this. i did a compustar a while back for my mom. one is a negative parkinglight output while the other is positive. GREEN / WHITE is negative output for parking lights connector 2 (8pin harness)
GREEN / WHITE is positive output for parking lights connector 1 NOTE !!!! the car has multiple starter wires and ignitions. make sure all of them are powered up.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 20, 2008 at 10:28 AM
The first Camry manual transmission I did, I ended up burning out the ground-when-running output from the remote start because I bypassed the clutch the wrong way.
1. I think at the clutch switch there are two heavy wires. One will test as a ground when you push the clutch switch in, but don't let that lead you in the wrong direction.......it's a positive starter wire, not a ground.
Anyway, so you'll find that one of those wires tests as a starter wire when you turn the key, anytime.
The other wire tests as a starter when you turn the key, but ONLY when the clutch is pushed in.
OK, so now you've found those two wires, right? You'll use a relay that'll jump those two wires together, but ONLY when the remote starter is on. When the remote starter is off, the clutch switch will work like factory.
Wire the relay like this:
87: one of the clutch wires
87a: no connection
30: other clutch wire
85: fused constant positive
86: ground-when-running or negative ignition output from remote starter. (Pretty much any kind of output from the remote starter that'll make a ground when it's on would work.)
2. Haven't used a PASS-4 myself, but yes, since it's a different brand, you'd have to cut off any kind of plug it has, and hardwire it to the compustar manually. How many wires does it have? Just two probably, right?
The instructions should explain.......one should be for constant positive, and the other should need a ground-when-running output from the remote starter.
What tedmond said is true, that the module you have is the most basic, and you'll lose a key. For a little more money, you could have got a module that would let you keep all your keys......but nothing wrong with using what you already have either.
3. They give you choices to do it whichever way you want. You'd use one or the other, but not both.
The Camry does have a brown positive parking light wire, down along the driver's running board.
But, the negative (black) parking light wire is right in with all the ignition wires, which makes for a neater job.
I would cut the green wire short (leave a couple of inches and tape it up in case you transfer to another car).........and run the negative parking light wire right along with your ignition wires.
(Not to overload you with information, but Compustar has a nice feature. When you use the negative parking light output, you can reprogram that green wire to be a positive trunk output. This saves time and money instead of having to wire up a relay to pop the trunk. But your Camry CE doesn't have a power trunk anyway, so in this case it's not of much use to you.)
MORE:
As tedmond said, your car has two ignition wires, two starters, and one accessory.
Accessory: I prefer not to connect accessory, to prevent the radio from coming on during remote start. But that's up to you.
Ignitions: You need to hook up both. One of them allows the car to start, and the other allows the heater to come on.
Connect the Compustar's Ignition 1 wire to the heavier yellow ignition wire in the car.
Connect the Compustar's "selectable" output to the pink ignition 2 wire in the car. The internal jumper should be on "ignition."
Starters: There are two starter wires, a heavy blue, and a smaller gray.
Some people will advise you to just take the Compustar's single starter output, connect it right up to the Camry's two starter wires, and call it a day.
That will work, and people have done it all the time and the car doesn't explode. However, Toyota built the car with two starter wires for a reason, and if you jump them together, you're changing the factory design of the car.
The Compustar does have a negative, low-current second starter output, made just for this purpose, and the instructions should tell you how to wire it up.
You would hook the Compustar's main starter output to the Camry's heavy blue wire.
You'd then use the Compustar's negative start output, wired to a relay (the install manual should show how), and the relay will power the car's second starter wire.
P.S. IMPORTANT:
You can't just use the Camry's domelight wire as the door trigger input to the Compustar. The car's domelight comes on when the engine shuts off, and the remote start enable mode will never work.
You have to catch all four doorpin wires separately, diode-isolate them, and then connect them to the Compustar.
The wires are all available at the fusebox, but two of them are on the backside, and really difficult to get to.
I do remember that the driver's doorpin is blue, and it's the only blue wire in a plug very low in the driver's kick panel.
I would guess that you could catch the driver's-rear door wire in the driver's running board.....and run over to the other side of the car, to the other kick panel, to catch the other two doors. Running the wire over to the other side of the car will probablhy prove far easier than reaching up behind the fuse box.
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 20, 2008 at 10:38 PM
thanks for expanding chris ! btw, pass4 i think i made by omega. seen itm but never installed one myself.
Posted By: beantownbrawler
Date Posted: December 21, 2008 at 9:30 AM
Boy you guys are quick and knowledgeable!! Maybe i can expand a bit and get even more answers from you. The main harness is a cluster*&%$ of wires and relays. The Ultrastart i installed had no relays, just fuses, this is why i am confused. The main harness has 8 pins: grn/wht (parking light) Check red (12v constant) Check white (accesory) Check RED / wht (12v constant pre wired to 2nd relay) ? would that 2nd relay do for my clutch bypass??????? yellow (starter prewired to anti-grind relay) Check i think....starter wire purple ( neg when armed prewired to anti-grind relay) ??????????? green and red (separate wires) ignition (separate red pre-wired to anti grind relay)???????? black (gnd) check 1. do i need to wire up all four door pins??? or can i just tap into the drivers door trigger? 2. i do not have keyless entry now, will it work with the compustar? i will connect the neg unlock and the neg lock, but how do i know if it needs 2 pulses to function properly? 3. On to the bypass. It is 2 wires. Red (12v+) and blue/wht (neg while running) Do i just tap the red into a 12v constant wire? What wire is gnd while running??? I have a dmm and understand how to measure volts, but, testing for negatives and grounds are new to me, if you explain, i will understand it. The guy who solt it to me told me i should look for an orange wire for the gnd while running???????? You guys are going to make this project a breeze once i tie down these loose ends. I appreciate the help once again.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: December 21, 2008 at 10:05 AM
I don't know Ultrastart so i can't comment on that but can tell you yes, you must connect all 4 door triggers. The drivers door pin wire is just that, the drivers door wire only, To make the alarm trigger for all doors you need to get all 4 door triggers and diode isolate them from each other. As for locks, they are negative pulse so you can connect them directly. The highest plug in the kickpanel has a small brown and a small gray on the backside, they are it. The gray pulsed once unlocks the drivers door, second pulse unlocks the rest. This makes 2 stage unlocking a breeze to connect on most alarms. The red on the bypass does go to 12v constant. As for your GWR wire, again i don't know your unit. The GWR wire will show negative whenever the RS is on. Set you DMM to an ohm setting and connect the black lead to metal in the car. Take the red lead and touch another peice of metal and the reading should go to zero, or close to it. Use the red lead to test the wire you wish by touching it to it and seeing if the meter does the same thing. This how you test for negative polarity.... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: beantownbrawler
Date Posted: December 21, 2008 at 10:18 AM
Thanks Mike. Basically in an ohm setting, when i probe the wires, i will receive a negative or positive reading. Beautiful.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: December 21, 2008 at 1:03 PM
No, a negative is the same as chassis ground. Notice if you touch your probes together the reading is zero, so, if you ground one probe to chassis whenever you touch any negative wire with the other probe you should get zero. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: beantownbrawler
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 1:32 PM
I have all hooked up and rem strt is responding, but, the problem now is the bypass module. I have 12v on the red, 12v on the blue/wht and it goes to ground when the rem strt is ready to go, but, the antenna ring is not bypassing the immobilizer. If i wave a key in front of the key hole, it starts right up. I even went as far as to remove the hard black plastic on the camry key, exposing, just the key and the chip and the white plastic that holds it in place. It still will not work. I have tried the antenna in different locations to no avail. PLEASE HELP!!!! Thanks to JWorm for the personal assistance. Circuit city says they sell a similar unit for $60, but, out of stock. So checking a second bypass is not an option right now.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 3:37 PM
The ring around the keyhole has to be just right. If the loop is too big, it won't work.
Let me see if I can describe it.
OK, so when the car's all put together and normal, if you open the door, see that little ring of light around the keyhole? Well, try to remember that.
Take the column cover off.
So now you have that "ring of light" that you could see before, and then around it a sort of "ledge" that would normally be covered by the steering column cover.
Hope that makes sense so far.
So the loop that comes with that bypass module is probably pretty big, so big you could just almost toss it over the car's ignition switch like a lasso.
So, put your hands around the wire leading to that ring that comes with the bypass module.......slide your fingers closer and closer to the ring......when your fingers get to the ring, put your fingers around the ring and kind of "pinch" it so the ring is smaller, get it?
So, "pinch" that part so that the ring is so small that it just barely barely fits onto that "ledge."
Now, wrap a piece of tape (or a small zip tie) where you had your fingers pinched, so the ring is now permanently that size forever.
Put the ring back onto the "ledge," and try the remote start. It should work.
Put a couple of pieces of tape just to temporarily hold the ring onto the "ledge" until you can get the car back together. You don't have to do a great job with the tape, the column shroud will hold it there from now on.
Posted By: beantownbrawler
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 8:20 PM
Thanks Chris. The job is complete (sort of) and the car is tied up. I had to modify the plastic piece that covers the ring and the front of the immobilizer. I melted the plastic in the middle and ran the excess antenna wire straight down the middle. Also, the plastic that surrounds the antenna had to be removed as well. The only thing not complete is the door locks. Even with the wiring sheet i cannot find the wires. I spoke with JWorm about this and he informed me to secure the unlock wire to the disarm wire in the vehicle. I found this wire at the fuse box and it was light green. It metered correctly, but, the doors are still not working. The lock is still readily available for me to do it later, as is the unlock. I have the camry ce, which does not have the keyless entry. Can you, or anyone with knowledge tell me exactly which 2 wires to connect to and exactly where they are located. There are a lot of harnesses in this car. I also noticed that the compustar has a disarm wire on the 18 pin harness, but, that wire is gone forever in the birds nest of wires i have ziptied all over the place. Thanks again guys. Total time invested on this project: 20 hours, give or take. I can live with that, seeing as the car is still running as designed and it was done right.
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 10:27 PM
this is the info i got. power unlock - gray or green
power lock - brown or violet both of the wires are at driver kick panel and also at ecu. the car will disarm when you unlock. howver if you remote start your car, the alarm will wail and it will annoy your neighbours. I suggest you take the compustar disarm wire and run it to the ignition switch. look for a KEY SENSE - blue (-) wire. that way when you remote start, the factory alarm is disarmed then rs will be no issue. just connect your door lock/unlock noramlly and run the factory disarm output to keysense. This maybe something you should know. When i did my moms compustar 2way pager (2002 camry) i had to use a relay and get a high current ground for the unlock to work. the unit for some reason didnt like that curent output. a sold tap to ground unlocked them.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: December 29, 2008 at 6:26 PM
Arm/lock brown drivers kick, 25 pin plug pin 16.
Unlock/disarm grey (double pulse) drivers kick, 25 pin plug pin 8
Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder. This wire will also unlock the doors. Can also use the passenger door key cylinder unlock wire, which only requires a single pulse. It is gray (-) at the fuse box, top left, 16 pin plug, pin 7.
It is possible that the wires from the Compustar are not strong enough and you will have to use relays to increase the strength. Once you have found the wires you believe to be correct and have metered them, take a fused jumper lead (3 or 5 amp fuse) and connect one side to ground, and then tap the other end to the Arm wire in the car. Do the doors lock? If so, you found the right wire. Do the same for unlock except you will have to give it two pulse. I would suggest finding the passenger door key cylinder wire since it only needs a single pulse.
As I explained on the phone yesterday, it is difficult to program the compustar to double pulse unlock without a programming tool...using the passenger unlock wire you won't have to. I have attached a link to a picture of the wires below. It may not work if you are not logged into DEI's website. Jeff, if it doesn't send me a PM with your email address and I will email it to you.
Tedmond, the CE doesn't have a factory alarm. No need to connect the key sense wire. You also don't connect the disarm wire to the keysense...you connect a ground when running wire. If you use Disarm the OEM alarm (if equipped) would still go off.
Posted By: beantownbrawler
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Thanks again for all your help guys. The lock/unlock feature has been worked out and i painstakingly was able to program the brain through the remote to change the pulse to double on the unlock. I really appreciate all the help you guys have provided. Jeff
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