1993 isuzu trooper, remote start

Hi Guys, new person here. I'm trying to install a Scytek 5000RS in my father's 1993 Isuzu Trooper for Christmas. I normally do street car turbo engine and standalone ECU work, so wiring, schematics and custom circuitry aren't a big deal, but I'm not experienced with car stereo and remote start.

I started the installation this past Saturday and Sunday. Here are some pictures. All the details are below, but the quick end-result was I was unable to get the car to start or to get the Scytek box to apply +12V to its Violet Starter wire.

https://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperRstart/

I stopped taking pictures after running the 12AWG +12V battery wire through the firewall. I got a little busy and forgot to take pics of the brake switch wires, +12v batt voltage distribution block, ground wire, ign switch wires, harness or Scytek box. Here are scans of the wiring instructions from the Scytek manual and the factory Trooper service manual.

https://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperWiring/

Just to jump back a bit, the goal for this Trooper is to just get remote start working, using as clean and reliable an installation as possible. To this end, I'm trying to tamper with as few factory wires as possible. The Scytek harness wires in Bold below are the ones I've connected.

Scytek 5000RS Starter Harness (6x 12AWG Wires)

• RED 1 (+12V) --> 30A Fuse --> +12V Battery


• RED 2 (+12V) --> 30A Fuse --> +12V Battery


• BROWN (IGNITION 2) --> Not Connected


• ORANGE (ACCESSORY) --> Not Connected


• YELLOW (IGNITION) --> BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Wire from Ign. Switch


• VIOLET (STARTER) --> BLACK/ White Starter Wire from Ign. Switch

Scytek 5000RS Main Harness (20x 20AWG Wires)

• GREEN / WHITE (Brake Input) --> GREEN/ YELLOW Brake Switch


• BLACK/ GRAY (Tach Input) --> Not Connected


• WHITE/ RED (Aux. 2) --> Not Connected


• BLACK/ WHITE (Dome Light Output) --> Not Connected


• YELLOW (+12 Ignition Input) --> BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Wire from Ign. Switch


• BLUE / YELLOW (Glow Plug Input) --> Not Connected


• BLUE/WHITE (Pass. Unlock Output) --> Not Connected


• BLUE/ORANGE (Ground When Running Output) --> Not Connected


• BLACK (Ground Input) --> Chassis Ground


• RED (Power) --> +12V Battery


• VIOLET (Positive Door Input) --> Not Connected


• GREEN (Negative Door Input) --> Not Connected


• WHITE/ BLACK (Hood/Trunk Pin Input) --> Not Connected


• ORANGE (Armed Output) --> Not Connected


• VIOLET/WHITE (Factory Disarm Output) --> Not Connected


• WHITE/ VIOLET (Aux. 3 / Factory Rearm Output) --> Not Connected


• BROWN (Siren Output) --> Not Connected


• GRAY (Aux. 1 Output) --> Not Connected


• WHITE (Parking Light Output) --> Not Connected


• BROWN / WHITE (Horn Output) --> Not Connected

In the manual, it says to hold button four for three seconds to start the engine. After finishing installing the above wires and putting the fuses back in, I pressed button four for three seconds and nothing happened. I took out the voltmeter and checked the +12V Battery supply coming into both the Starter and Main harness. It was good. I also checked the Brake Input line. I pressed the brake pedal, saw +12V with the brake engaged, released the brake pedal, and saw GND/0V DC with the brake released. So that's probably okay too.

Next up was the hood pin wire as the manual says the remote start won't start the engine if the hood is open. I accidentally broke the hood pin switch trying to install it. The thin plastic column inside a long narrow spring broke. It looks like the hood pin switch "closes" (electrically) the harness wire to Chassis Ground when the hood mechanically opens. I taped the Hood Pin Input wire off with electrical tape and assumed this would tell the Scytek box the hood was closed. From here I guess this was probably okay too. The two Scytek Yellow wires (12AWG on Starter Harness and 20AWG on Main Harness) both didn't have voltage, but I expected that since I believe their purpose is to show +12V when the engine is starting and running only.

The only other check I could think of was to see if the Scytek box was applying +12V to its VIOLET (Starter) wire when I pressed button four on the key-fob. I hooked up the multimeter between Chassis Ground and VIOLET, pressed button four for three seconds, and saw 0V DC on the multimeter. I'm pretty sure that the Scytek box is supposed to apply +12V to the VIOLET wire to power the starter motor. I'm guessing this means some more wires need to be hooked up because the Scytek box doesn't think it's currently okay to run the starter.

Any ideas?

After reading this forum a bit more, it sounds like I should also hook up an RPM/Tach wire once I get the box at least trying to start the car. I'll also make sure a hood switch gets hooked up once I can get the basics working.

Happy Holidays,

Rob

is there a wire on that alarm that is called neutral safety switch? you need to have this grounded for it to crank

also when you try to remote start the car, do the electronics like the radio and instrument panel lights power up? you probably need to hook up either the 2nd ignition, accessory, or both

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Looks like you haven't connected or programmed for tach either, ref the the violet starter wire, you are correct, also make sure all 3 reds are showing 12v+, I agree about the neutral safety switch, don't have Scytek here but DEI has a cable which has to be at ground such as parking brake wire on a manual or reverse light feed on an auto.

Looking at Audiovox's tech sheet, you also need to hook up Ignition 2.  Connect the brown wire from your starter harness to the BLACK/ Red wire in the ignition harness, that'll be your 2nd ignition.  You might also want to hook your orange accessory wire from the starter harness to the blue wire in the vehicle's ignition harness as well.  That should control your HVAC, and turn it on during remote start.  Definitely need to hook up the tach wire, that will be a black wire at the multi coil pack.  MAKE SURE YOU TEST YOUR WIRES FIRST, and don't just hook them up blindly to the wires I listed.  When testing for the tach wire you'll need to put your meter to Volts AC, and get a reading between 1 and 7 volts depending on the rev. of the engine.  Or you can look at all the coils and find the common color wire on each coil, then hook it up to the wire that varies from coil to coil.  Hook those wires up then try it again.  You should also have to have the alarm brain learn the tach, read the install manual and it'll show you how. 

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..

Hey, there isn't Hey soundnsecurity, thanks for the help.

I took another look at the Scytek manual. There isn't a wire called a Neutral Safety Switch, but there is a wire that might be related. It's listed above, Blue/Orange --> Ground When Running.

ScytekManual wrote:

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Scytek 20 Pin Main Harness
Pin 8 --> BLUE/ORANGE --> Ground When Running Output (-) 500mA. Connect to an optional factory security bypass module if required. Or to a clutch switch bypass relay pin #86 for manual transmissions.

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I'm not sure what an optional factory security bypass module is. There are another two wires related to a car's factory security system. The Trooper has manual locks, but they are all electrically linked. Using the key in the keyhole at the driver's door unlocks all doors, and also locks all doors. There isn't a key fob though, just mechanical keys so there's no wireless control. I'm not sure if this qualifies as a factory alarm system that has to be disabled first. Any idea?

ScytekManual wrote:

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Scytek 20 Pin Main Harness
Pin 15 --> VIOLET/WHITE --> Factory Disarm Output (-) 500mA. The Violet/White wire provides a ground output on disarming and before remote starting to disarm a factory security system. Connect to the wire that requires a ground pulse to disarm the factory security system.

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ScytekManual wrote:

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Pin 16[ --> WHITE/ VIOLET --> Auxiliar 3 / Factory Rearm Output (-) 500mA. WHITE/ Violet wire. Auxiliar 3: Momentary output when channel is activated. Factory Rearm Output: Provides a ground output on remote start shutdown to rearm a factory security system. Connect to the wire that requires a ground pulse to rearm a factory security system.

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Yep, I did not hook anything up to Accessory or Ignition 2. I wanted to tap into as few wires as possible and I figured my father can manually turn on the radio once he gets in the car. The way the trooper electrical system works is that turning the ignition key to Run (not Start/Cranking) provides power to the HVAC directly and to the starter solenoid. When the key is moved to Start/Crank, the Starter relay completes the switch to the Starter solenoid and the engine cranks, but power is also simultaneously cut to the HVAC using an On-Unless-Triggered type of relay for the HVAC power. Long story short, providing power to the BLACK / YELLOW ignition wire alone should get the HVAC going while he's walking to the car.

I might have misunderstood though. Are you saying I need to hook up Ignition 2 and Accessory just to get the car to start, even if I don't mind much about the radio? Doesn't sound quite right.

Thanks for the help

howie ll wrote:

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Looks like you haven't connected or programmed for tach either, ref the the violet starter wire, you are correct, also make sure all 3 reds are showing 12v+, I agree about the neutral safety switch, don't have Scytek here but DEI has a cable which has to be at ground such as parking brake wire on a manual or reverse light feed on an auto.

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Thanks Howie

I checked for +12V with a voltmeter after running the +12 Battery wires and they were good. I looked through the Scytek manual again and there's a mention of a "clutch switch bypass" (see above post), but it's an Output not an Input.

joch1314 wrote:

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Looking at Audiovox's tech sheet, you also need to hook up Ignition 2.  Connect the brown wire from your starter harness to the BLACK/ Red wire in the ignition harness, that'll be your 2nd ignition.  You might also want to hook your orange accessory wire from the starter harness to the blue wire in the vehicle's ignition harness as well.  That should control your HVAC, and turn it on during remote start.  Definitely need to hook up the tach wire, that will be a black wire at the multi coil pack.  MAKE SURE YOU TEST YOUR WIRES FIRST, and don't just hook them up blindly to the wires I listed.  When testing for the tach wire you'll need to put your meter to Volts AC, and get a reading between 1 and 7 volts depending on the rev. of the engine.  Or you can look at all the coils and find the common color wire on each coil, then hook it up to the wire that varies from coil to coil.  Hook those wires up then try it again.  You should also have to have the alarm brain learn the tach, read the install manual and it'll show you how. 

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Oh, cool! I don't have an Audiovox login, but looks like a great resource. I don't quite understand why a second ignition wire is needed, but it can't hurt to try and hook it up. I'll add this to the to-do list for the next attempt.

Is it necessary to power to the Blue accessory wire? I don't really need to get the radio to resume with the remote start. I just want the motor and HVAC to start. The radio seems to be powered separately from the HVAC on the Trooper factory service manual schematics. There linked to in the top of the first post. My bad on the resizing though, images are 1000px wide.

Thanks for the tip on using Multimeter AC Voltage to check for the Tach signal. That will save me a nice headache. I had figured out what wire to use by the coil packs, but a friend said I might not need the Tach wire, so I left it out. I'll add it to the to-do list for the next attempt too.

To-Do
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• Hook up Tach Wire


• Hook up Scytek Brown Second Ignition Output (6 pin Starter harness) --> Trooper BLACK/ Red Wire (Ign. Switch)

So am I right that this Scytek box doesn't use a Neutral Safety Switch wire? You guys are freakin quick! Three replies within twenty minutes. What a message board! :)

Doesn't look like it has a neutral/safety wire, but make sure you do hook up the hood pin input wire when you get the remote start working.  That is a must in all my installs and I'm sure many will agree with me.

I'm thinking the reason for the quick replies on your post had to do with the detailed info you left with your original post.  Very informative and detailed with what you were looking for, therefore very easy for us to get you on the right track.  I know I like those types of threads, and again, so do many others on here. 

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..

el_bob wrote:

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So am I right that this Scytek box doesn't use a Neutral Safety Switch wire? You guys are freakin quick! Three replies within twenty minutes. What a message board! :)

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i was looking at some install manuals and i think the neutral safely on your alarm is named GREEN- Parking brake input its on a 2 pin harness. try grounding this wire then try to start. it probably wont start since you dont have the tach wire hooked up but you should at least get some kind of response from the vehicle

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joch1314 wrote:

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Doesn't look like it has a neutral/safety wire, but make sure you do hook up the hood pin input wire when you get the remote start working.  That is a must in all my installs and I'm sure many will agree with me.

I'm thinking the reason for the quick replies on your post had to do with the detailed info you left with your original post.  Very informative and detailed with what you were looking for, therefore very easy for us to get you on the right track.  I know I like those types of threads, and again, so do many others on here. 

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I agree one-hundred percent. As someone who spends a lot of time under the hood, I am definitely going to hook up the hood pin connection once the remote start works.

So, I'll try hooking up the Tach wire, getting the Scytek box to learn the Tach signal and hooking up the Ignition 2 wire. Am I missing anything?

Thanks again guys

Rob

ScytekManual wrote:

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Scytek 20pin Main Harness
Pin 2 --> BLACK/ GRAY Tach Input --> Connect to the vehicle's tach wire or a fuel injector wire if the tachless mode does not provide satisfactory operation.

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I think this was why I initially did not hook up the Tach wire. It sounds like it should at least try to start without a Tach wire, but possibly fail to "fire" and idle without it.

This leaves the only current explanation for the Scytek Violet Starter wire not getting +12V at all to be that I did hook up the Scytek Brown Ignition 2 wire to the Isuzu BLACK/ Red Ignition 2 wire at the ignition switch. I hope that's it! Would be a nice easy fix :)

To sum up, the green wire, that's the one I meant when I said ground,either by parking brake (manual) or reverse wire (auto). If it doesn't see a ground, it won't work, that simple, also tach is compulsory,ref 2nd ignition, Peugeots have 2 ignitions and both have to be treated as ignition 1!  Also on BMW's if the acc is not wired up as ignition 2 the car won't start so connecting ign 2 is relevant. Also clutch switch if vehicle is a manual, if you have to press the clutch to start, then you will need to bypass the clutch switch. It's possible to take your starter feed to this switch's output.

I'm still typing up the next post, but here's a scan of the Scytek manual regarding the "2-Pin White Connector" that has the Green - Parking Brake Input wire.

https://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperWiring/ScytekGalaxy5000RS_WiringP3_resize.jpg

I stumbled upon a full PDF download of the Galaxy 5000RS manual on the Scytek website.

https://www.scytek.net/manuals/galaxy/g5000RS.pdf

I put on my winter gear and went out into the driveway last night to kneel on the ice and work on it. Just a side note, winter boots and thick tube socks make all the difference, especially compared to the tennis shoes and regular ankle-high thin socks I wore last weekend. Makes 24deg F seem like 50deg F.

The remote start is now working. I am embarrassed to admit the problem. I had not installed the antenna. I forgot about it entirely. It was still packed in the shipping box, wrapped up in a plastic bag. All I had to do was plug in the antenna and everything worked, HVAC and Starter.

When I was testing the installation last Sunday, I must have though the brain's receiver was internal to its plastic casing. I totally forgot about the separate antenna and its 5pin connector.

I didn't add Ignition 2, Accessory or 2-Pin Parking Brake Input GREEN. The only wires connected in total are the following.

6 Pin Starter Harness

# RED 1 (+12V) --> 30A Fuse --> +12V Battery
# RED 2 (+12V) --> 30A Fuse --> +12V Battery
# YELLOW (IGNITION) --> BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Wire from Ign. Switch
# VIOLET (STARTER) --> BLACK/ White Starter Wire from Ign. Switch

20 Pin Main Harness

# GREEN / WHITE (Brake Input) --> GREEN/ YELLOW Brake Switch
# YELLOW (+12 Ignition Input) --> BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Wire from Ign. Switch
# BLACK (Ground Input) --> Chassis Ground
# RED (Power) --> +12V Battery

Antenna Harness, Valet Switch Harness, LED Harness

I still need to add a hood pin. This Trooper was not equipped with a factory anti-theft module and thus did not come with a factory hood pin switch. I broke the hood pin switch that came with the Scytek Galaxy 5000RS by accident.

I also need to decide on incorporating other features or not. I know my father would rather stick pins in his arm than struggle trying to get a car alarm siren to stop beeping in public. He very much likes peace and quiet. That being said, the siren is very helpful for communicating with the 5000RS, especially when programming or using Valet mode. I am considering installing the siren inline with an On/Off switch.

Thank you all for your help. I'll post up some pictures after work.

Rob, so sorry my communication was not more clear over on R3V. (He and I are both members on another forum, www.r3vlimited.com).

The Scytek is the ONLY remote start that has a decent "tachless" setting, which is default.

Parking brake input is how you activate "turbo timer" or the super secret "manual mode", which requires their programming cable (which has yet to work for me) to get to.

Guys, if you have not tried Scytek, give them a shot. Terrific product, decent service, awesome prices, just all in all the best remote start on the market. I will take their product over DEI any day!

Luke

I posted up pictures covering the second installation attempt. Sorry I havn't quite worked out the kinks in widening the web page.

I'm not proud of using the Scotchlocks, but I had ordered and installed them before reading about their reputations here.

https://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperRstartP2/

Do you guys normally cut off the extra wires you aren't using? There's a lot of space taken up by the relatively huge bundles of wires that is preventing a "cleaner" install. It took like ~15 zip ties to mount all of that in there without having any wires in the way of moving pieces and making everything firmly fixed in position.

Thanks again for all of your help howie II, Luke (StereoInstaller), soundnsecurity, and jock1314. My Dad is very happy and is loving surprising friends with the remote start. Thanks again.

Rob

Ah, I forgot that the12volt forum doesn't auto-create links.

https://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperRstartP2/


Here's a quick snapshot, even though this one came out blurry.

Good idea cable tieing the scotchloks BUT that only solves one problem with that type of connector, the fact that mechanically they work loose also insulation displacement connectors or IDC the generic name, DONT make a good electical contact and you are dealing with high currents here. As far as I'm concerned you MUST SOLDER. That photo looks like an early Ford ignition switch, notice how the factory leads are soldered on?  Using a Weller gun or similar high output solder device I would solder to where the factory joints are soldered and cable tie your loom to the factory loom. As regards your extra cables, think very carefully as to what you might want to add in the future, OR would you transfer the device to another vehicle? If not then I would (actually do) cut those leads back to about 3" (enough to grab later if I have to) and loom them in with your other leads.

3M makes a lot of great products that we can't live without. Unfortunately, Scotchlocks are not one of them. They are horrible. Sooner or later they will probably fail. Do you want to take that chance? I can't with a customer's car. I don't have any in my shop & if they come in a box with a new item-I throw them away immediately. All I need is one failure to learn my lesson. You are also exposing the wires to a possible short circuit by not taping the connectors.                                        

As stated above, solder all your wires. It's the right way to do it.

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Good Enough Isn't!