02 honda civic, scytek galaxy 5100rs
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110066
Printed Date: July 05, 2025 at 5:10 PM
Topic: 02 honda civic, scytek galaxy 5100rs
Posted By: alscrx
Subject: 02 honda civic, scytek galaxy 5100rs
Date Posted: December 26, 2008 at 9:35 PM
So i noticed on my omega bypass for my 02 civic that there is a wire that says (-) Ground when running(status) Does that get connected to the remote start unit which is an add on that i am installing now, Or the audiovox pursuit alarm itself that was installled awhile back? Also how do i find this WIRE on the alarm or remote start unit since they are not labeled "ground when running or status"?????
Replies:
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 26, 2008 at 10:50 PM
The GWR input to the bypass would go to the remote starter. What brand/model remote starter is it?
Other names would be (-) ignition 3, (-) out while active, but the basic idea is a wire which outputs ground the entire time that the remote start has the car's ignition turned on.
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: December 26, 2008 at 10:59 PM
Ok well since i had an audiovox alarm/keyless unit i went with the audiovox add on AS-9075A I see it has a light blue wire which says 300ma ground output,ignition3 control,relay required. But i though that wire had to be connected to the alarms shock sensor to shunt it while remote starting. It said to hook up like this. #86 to light blue wire #85 to battery #30 to one end of cut shock sensor wire,#87A to other end of cut shock sensor wire. What should i do? Also if the shock sensor has 3 wires, which wire do i cut?
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 26, 2008 at 11:56 PM
That wire does have to fulfill both functions. Unless - does that Audiovox add-on have the 2-wire(red and black) yellow "transponder bypass" connector? If it does, the black wire will fulfill the GWR function just fine, and you could use the red for constant power to the bypass if you wish.
If your RS doesn't have that plug, just the lt. blue "ign. 3", then you'll have to use the ign. 3 to activate the bypass module's GWR as well as the alarm's sensor shunt.
I'd suggest doing this through a relay, since I think that the ign. 3 probably doesn't put out enough current to do both functions directly - although Chris Luongo or someone else who does a lot of Audiovox might be able to verify otherwise. I've done non-Audiovox remote starters using one GWR output for bypass activation and alarm sensor shunt, and they didn't work consistently without the relay.
If you do use a relay, wire as follows:
85 - lt. blue from add-on unit.
86 - 12V constant fused
87 - ground
30 - bypass module's GWR input and alarm's sensor shunt input. I would probably diode isolate these outputs as well.
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 27, 2008 at 7:51 AM
hey chris, dont ignition 3 ouputs or any output on a rs unit often allow anywhere from 200 - 500 ma outputs? if so, shouldnt that be sufficiant for powereing a bypass module? i understand that some arent meant for large current draw( i myself use relays for ign3 output or status when powering bypass, defroster, and other little things) btw, have you ever burnt out an ouput on a unit,
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: December 27, 2008 at 10:42 AM
Thanks chris, If i follow that relay diagram you posted, How would i connect the shock sensor to it? I though i was supposed to cut one of the 4 shock sensor wires and connect each end to a different spot on the relay. is this correct? Which sensor wire do i cut and connect to relay? Blue,green,red or black? How do i diode isolate these?
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: December 27, 2008 at 10:59 AM
Also, the pursuit pro9642 alarm has a channel 3 on the remote and keychain. I want to use this button to activate the remote start. In the install manual it states: Dark blue wire-delayed 300Ma pulsed output/channel 3 The dark blue wire pulses to ground via an independent RF channel from the keychain transmitter. This is a transistorized, low current output and should only be used to drive an external relay coil. WARNING: Connecting the dark blue wire to the high current switched output of trunk release circuits and some remote start trigger inputs will damage the control module. Connect the dark blue wire to terminal 86 of the 30A automotive relay and wire the remaining relay contacts to perform the selected function of channel 3. That is what the manual says about that wire. Does this sound correct? How would i finish wiring that relay to make the keychain channel 3 operate the remote start?
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: December 27, 2008 at 11:46 AM
There is another wire i found on the alarm diagram that says it can be used for an alternate channel 3 output. It says its activated by a double push on the keychain remote. Also says output is active for 1 second. i think using the double push option button on the keychain is better for remote start for safety reasons. If i use the option in the post before this one, A single push of the option button would cause the car to start which can be accidental if pressed while in ones pocket or purse. So is it ok to use the Dark blue wire with black trace even though the output is active for 1 second? Manual states its a 300Ma output low current. Does the add on remote start unit input trigger pull more than this 300ma? Should i use a relay to be safe? HOW would i wire this relay? Thanks for the help guys, After i figure out those 2 problems(Bypass wire GWR/sensor shunt AND the remote channel 3 wiring) i can finally install this thing already!
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 27, 2008 at 12:11 PM
tedmond wrote:
hey chris, dont ignition 3 ouputs or any output on a rs unit often allow anywhere from 200 - 500 ma outputs? if so, shouldnt that be sufficiant for powereing a bypass module? i understand that some arent meant for large current draw( i myself use relays for ign3 output or status when powering bypass, defroster, and other little things) btw, have you ever burnt out an ouput on a unit,
It would be sufficient if it were powering a bypass module alone; but I've done this on a DEI(and I know this is Audiovox we're talking here), in which case the status out is used to ground the blue instant trigger wire, and this makes the alarm ignore the shock sensor until the ground is removed(i.e. after the remote start shuts down). The current from a DEI status output was never sufficient to consistently activate a bypass module AND that "sensor shunt".
In this case though if interrupting a shock sensor wire with a relay instead of grounding the sensor shunt input on the alarm, that ignition 3 would probably be sufficiently high current. Again, I'm really hoping someone who's done a bunch of Audiovox alarms will chime in(I've done plenty of their RS and keyless but no alarms lately).
I've never personally burnt out a transistorized output. Usually I notice when they aren't doing what they're supposed to and either connect them to a relay or some other solution.
However I do remember a case when I worked at Circuit City, where one of the installers for what reason I can't imagine connected the status output from a Valet remote start directly to the car's accessory wire. Worse yet, it actually left the install bay that way.
Since electricity follows the path of least resistance and will go wherever it's not switched off, the clock/radio/blower or whatever else was on that accessory wire naturally drew positive current through the transistors inside the Valet as much as it could, and the status output wouldn't activate anything when I tried to fix it. I ended up connecting the RS properly and just using the defogger output(programmable as 2nd status).
Alscrx, to be honest I'm not sure what wire you'd want to interrupt. I'm trying to get others who do more Audiovox in on this thread. I've gotta get going now but will post more later on this. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 2:18 PM
Need help!
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 28, 2008 at 11:38 PM
there is a member that deals with audiovox alot. im trying to think of the name but dont remember. i just remember his name starts with an M
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 29, 2008 at 3:24 PM
Mike M2 perhaps?
Alscrx, as far as the shock sensor I think you could end up just interrupting the green and the blue wires(I'm assuming that the red is 12V, black is ground, and therefore those 2 would be triggers).
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 7:07 PM
So today i installed Scytek Galaxy 5100RS with bypass. Everything works as its supposed to except the door triggers. Its a 2002 civic coupe. I connected both door triggers to the one alarm wire and they will not cause the alarm to trigger when armed and doors opened. Not sure why....would not using 2 diodes cause this? I checked for voltage and i got nothing! Its a (-)negative trigger door trigger. I put the voltmeter to a +12 and then to the trigger and opened the door....still no voltage shows up! I can't figure this out. I even tried to open the doors seperate to rule out a bad switch and neither door will set off the alarm!
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 7:15 PM
if you have diodes on the lines, the bars of the diode must be towards the door wires of the car, kinda obvious but just to make sure so we can work from there.
-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 4:45 PM
Well i didn't diode isolate since there are only 2 doors. But if i have to then i will do so. But would that cause the doors to not trigger the alarm when opened?
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 5:44 PM
Just to clarify, alscrx, you've connected both the driver's and passenger's door trigger on the car to the green (-) door trigger input on the Scytek?
The door triggers should be green(driver's) and lt. GREEN/ red(passenger's) in a green plug above the driver's kick panel. Are these the wires you're using?
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 8:51 PM
Yes sir, i connected from the oem green alarm plug....both green wire and LTGREEN/ red to the Scytek green (-)door trigger wire. Does connecting both without diodes cause a problem?
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 9:11 PM
Theoretically it shouldn't matter that the diodes aren't there, which is rather confusing. It's good practice in any case to use the diodes(the purpose of them is to keep the door circuits on the car isolated so that it knows specifically which door is open).
When you say you're metering those 2 wires, are you metering them at the Scytek alarm or at the green plug?
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 9:23 PM
I was using the voltmeter to test for a ground when open, At the door switch itself, and the green oem alarm plug. I checked both wires for a constant ground and i got nothing. But the dome light comes on when i open the door so it shouldbe reading ground.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 9:51 PM
Hmm...you're using the red probe of your meter to 12V constant, and the black probe on the door triggers, and no change when the door's opened? This is bizarre because it shouldn't be remotely that hard to find door wires on this car. Stupid suggestion, but check your meter to make sure the probes are in the right spots, and it's on DC 20V or the equivalent setting.
Also are you letting the alarm stay armed for a minute or so before testing the door trigger?
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: alscrx
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 9:57 PM
At first, i was testing right away and at night i noticed the LED took at least 15 seconds to start rapidly flashing. So that could have been my testing problem. Also noticed the passenger side pin is missing. Think it fell inside the car. I set the dome light switch in the middle so i would know if the drivers door switch was working. It randomly gets stuck causing the dome not to light. Other times it works and the dome turns on. I ordered 2 new switches as this seems to be causing the problems.
|