Wiring Confusion Viper 5901

Hi All,

I am currently pre-planning the installation of a Viper 5901 Security/remote Start system for my 2003 Nissan Pathfinder SE (4X4, A/T). I am going through the wiring schematics and I have a few small questions about the wiring for the unit. I will be using an Xpress Bypass XK05 with firmware PKN2 3.00 with the 5901 unit.

What is the purpose of the WHITE/ Blue remote Start/Turbo Timer wire (H1/10)? Should this be connected to the XK05 bypass unit?

Does my vehicle require the light flash isolation wire (H1/4) to be hooked up? How would I hook that up?

My Pathfinder implements progressive locks, where the first unlock only unlocks the driver door and the second unlock unlocks the remaining doors. Should I have the Light blue (H2/6) 2nd Unlock wire connected to something? Should that be connected to my power unlock wire on the vehicle?

Should the Blue status output wire (Remote start auxiliary output harness) be connected to the Keysense, the XK05 bypass unit or both?

In the third document below, I have left many spaces blank. The blank spaces mean that I was unsure of how to hook the wires up. If somebody could please shed some light on how to hook the heavy gauge remote start wires up, I would be ecstatic and I would be indebted to them forever.

I have the following PDF files for reference to my questions:
’03 Nissan Pathfinder Wire Colors/Locations: https://www.thetechnobabble.com/WireLoc.pdf
Viper 5901 Installation Manual: https://www.thetechnobabble.com/5901Installation.pdf
Viper 5901 Wires and Pathfinder Wires Together: https://www.thetechnobabble.com/WiringDiagram.pdf


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pathfinderguy

With basic questions like this I would highly suggest you consult a local professional installer.

The WHITE/ blue wire will cause the vehicle to start whenever it is grounded.  You can hook this wire up in a variety of creative ways to allow the vehicle to start.  Most of the time this wire is not used.

I'm not sure what a "light flash isolation" wire is, but if is ithe standard white parking light output it is nice to hook it up to the vehicles parking lights for visual confirmation of the system status (lock, unlock, remote started).

The door locks are going to be a bit tricky IF you want to keep the priority system.  You will need to five wire each actuator seperately - the drivers door will be on one relay and the passenger doors will be on a second relay.  You can keep the lock side of all actuators tied together.  You will control each seperate relay with the correct wire from the alarm.

The blue status wire needs to go to the bypass - I don't think it will need to go the keysense wire.

Most of these questions are extremely basic - if you don't have a full understand of their function and operation you are in for quite the challange.

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Kevin Pierson

I apologize, upon reading my post I realized that my questions were pretty elementary. I have installed several remote starters before, but none as complicated as the 5901. I think my confusion is stemming from the wording of the different wires implemented on the unit.

I am still somewhat confused, however, about the light flash isolation wire. I believe it is for lights which use multiplexing, which i think does not apply for my vehicle.

I also realized that since the pathfinder utilizes two accessory wires (one for radio and the other for climate control) I must reprogram one of the flex relays for the secondary accessory wire.

Also, since the pathfinder utilizes two starters, DEI recommends just running the two starter wires in parallel to the 5901's starter wire (instead of utilizing a relay). Does this sound right? I believe the second starter wire is only for cold starts only.

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pathfinderguy

I've always used two relays to power the two starters - they are seperate from the factory for a reason.

I'm not sure about the light flash isolation wire.  Maybe someone else can chime in and detail its function.

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Kevin Pierson

Here is my last question, I promise. Here is my current wiring diagram for the heavy gauge wires:

Ignition 1 Input/Output (+)(Pink):
Ignition wire from ignition harness

Fused (30A) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Input 87 (+)(RED / White):
12V Constant from ignition harness

Accessory Output (+)(Orange):
Accessory 1 Wire from Ignition harness

Starter Output (Key Side)(Violet):
Both starter wires connected in parallel to this wire (Since pathfinder has two starter wires)

Starter Output (Starter Side)(Green):
Connected to starter side of starter wire
Do the starter wires really need to be isolated? Is this for the security system?

Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input (+)(Red):
12V constant from ignition harness

Ignition 2 / Flex relay Output (+)(Pink/White):
Use for accessory 2?

Flex Relay Input 87a (Key Side)(+)(RED / Black):
I have no idea what this wire is for.

Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input (+)(RED / Black):
12V constant from ignition harness

Please let me know if this looks correct. I am not sure about the Flex relay input wire. Should this input be from the accessory 1 wire?

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pathfinderguy

erythin's ok, no need for the flex wire, cut bend it back and insulate, the only thing wrong is ur starter wires, green is actually the key side, and violet starter side,  relays still power of violet wire for second starter wire,

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

The parking light isolation wire is for vehicles that require relay-isolation away from the switch, like some Ford's and Chrysler's. Your Pathfinder will not utilize this type of wiring. Is very handy on the vehicles that require a relay and resistor though.

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Big Al

The parking light isolation wire is an awesome "new" feature for the new line of vipers,  instead of the old jumper style to select pos or neg pk light they now use an onboard fuse to select it.  There is now a WHITE/ brown wire on the primary harness that is used if you have to isolate away from the factory switch like alot of chryslers.  No need for additional relays.  Just cut the factory pk light wire and white goes to lights and WHITE/ brown to the switch, not needed in your case though, that was just food for thought.

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Advanced MECP

UPDATE: It turns out that the ECM needed to relearn some stuff (something to do with the intake air volume and such). Since the battery had been disconnected for such a long time, the ECM just forgot the data and the dealer had to force the ECM to relearn it.

It is, however, possible to relearn the data yourself using a key and the gas pedal but it requires extremely accurate timing and it can really mess up the ECM if not done properly so it is recommended that it is done by the dealer with the CONSULT II computer.

My apologies, the above message was meant for another topic.

i have  done a 07 armada and iam sure they are a lil similar with the door locks. when hookin the door lock/unlock the first pulse unlock the driver and second pulse unlock the rest of the doors. all u need to do is program the r/s system to unlock with a second pulse. or it may have passenger unlock wire from ur r/s system. and on most nissan there are two starter wires and the second one has to be hooked up via relay, which is easier, for cold starts.

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dnell

You can use a relay or you can use the second igniton wire(pink/white), and program it as second starter!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

2 points here.
a) Why do you want to power up the radio during remote start? You're not in the vehicle! Simply set it as a second starter.
b) Unless you're completely paranoid about someone jumping into the vehicle as you unlock it, simply set the unit for double pulse unlock. I've NEVER been asked to do progressive unlocks, except on Ford Transit connects and Mercedes Sprinters, which are set up for it with regards to the load area not the passenger doors.