2007 ram tips for remote starter
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110183
Printed Date: July 12, 2025 at 12:59 PM
Topic: 2007 ram tips for remote starter
Posted By: stiver_32
Subject: 2007 ram tips for remote starter
Date Posted: December 30, 2008 at 1:53 PM
I am going to be installing a remote starter in my brother in-laws 2007 Dodge Ram this weekend and was wondering if there are any known issues or good tips to help with the install. Remote starter is a Autocommand 41026t (basic remote with only remote start and AUX buttons) He is going to retain is factory key fob for lock/unlock since it is built into the key anyway. Bypass module is a PKUCH2X. I recently did his wifes 2006 Grand Cherokee with a few minor issues but it is working great now. So I am a little familiar with the PKUCH2X bypass unit. A few questions I have are: MUX wire -- where is it located? I remember reading that it may not be located in the ignition harness. Parking lights -- can I just run a (-) neg output PL output wire to the relay under the hood pin#1 like the grand cherokee was? Or is there a positive wire I can connect to? Starter Wire -- is there one? I know the 2nd start is triggered via resistance which will be taken care of by the bypass. Thanks in advance for your replies.
Replies:
Posted By: another-kelly
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 12:14 AM
stiver_32 wrote:
MUX wire -- where is it located? I remember reading that it may not be located in the ignition harness.
violet/brown at the ignition harness. go to the back of the switch itself. the violet/brown comes out from the ignition switch and goes up to the skim module (at the front of the ignition switch), you must connect to the violet/brown in between the ignition switch and the skim module and not the violet/brown coming down the column
stiver_32 wrote:
Parking lights -- can I just run a (-) neg output PL output wire to the relay under the hood pin#1 like the grand cherokee was? Or is there a positive wire I can connect to?
i always use a relay with a 1200 ohm resistor to ground to trigger parking lights. it's WHITE/ green at the switch, one above the other. there's two at the harness, you want the top one.
stiver_32 wrote:
Starter Wire -- is there one? I know the 2nd start is triggered via resistance which will be taken care of by the bypass.
no, there's isn't one to use for remote start
Posted By: saskpuller
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 8:43 AM
Don't forget to put a 1k resistor between the start wire and ground at the bypass module. These trucks are super easy. Programming the module will give the most grief if at all.
Posted By: stiver_32
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 11:22 AM
saskpuller wrote:
Don't forget to put a 1k resistor between the start wire and ground at the bypass module. These trucks are super easy. Programming the module will give the most grief if at all.
Tell me more about this. Do I put the 1k resistor on the ground wire.... or on the start wire??
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 11:28 AM
The PKUCH2X bypass unit is good but if you use the iDatalink CH3 this will take care of everything for you including parking light confirmation. I do these all the time with the iDatalink module and take about 1.5 hours to do with the help of the module.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: saskpuller
Date Posted: December 31, 2008 at 11:03 PM
Hey Jeff Have you been able to get the horn to not honk before start when armed. I have been using the chdl7pk2 and lately it's been hell. I called bypass and they told me to put a diode isolated disarm wire to the GWR of the module so it would disarm sooner. WHat do you think? Does that kit you use do the door locks?
Posted By: stiver_32
Date Posted: January 01, 2009 at 7:15 AM
saskpuller wrote:
Hey Jeff Have you been able to get the horn to not honk before start when armed. I have been using the chdl7pk2 and lately it's been hell. I called bypass and they told me to put a diode isolated disarm wire to the GWR of the module so it would disarm sooner. WHat do you think? Does that kit you use do the door locks?
I haven't started the install yet.... I am just looking out for possible issues I could have with the install. OK... I see what you mean now about the 1k resistor. Is it possible it would work without it ?? or should I just save myself the trouble and just put the resistor there while I am at it?? No this kit does not do Disarm or have door locks. Going to retain the factory keyfob for lock/unlock, etc.
Posted By: saskpuller
Date Posted: January 01, 2009 at 7:53 AM
The truck will not start without it. Things go quicker if everything is bench wired. Do the resistor then. These trucks only need ignition, brake, ppl/brn mux, org/wht transponder, 12v+, tach, hood pin, park lights and ground hooked up. Really quite easy. The horn thing is what's bugging me.
Posted By: stiver_32
Date Posted: January 02, 2009 at 9:22 AM
The remote starter I am going to install has a output for the horn to honk when you activate the RS. It can be changed to + or - pulse. From what I read... the 07 Ram's horn is a Negative trigger, but does it have to have a certain resistance?? or can I simply hook the RS horn output directly to it? Same goes for the parking light output on the RS - it can be changed from a + or - output. Can I just hook into the vehicles + parking light wire? or must I use the suggested 1130 ohm - output at the switch? The wiring diagram on this website shows a positive headlight wire located under the hood.
Posted By: another-kelly
Date Posted: January 02, 2009 at 10:46 AM
just a straight negative trigger for the horn to honk. i personally prefer to use the 1130ohm resistor and a relay for the negative trigger parking lights at the switch
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 02, 2009 at 7:31 PM
Using the CH3 from iDatalink and using the RS232 removes the need to have the parking lights and also no horn honk on remote start either ( no sure why they program that into the CHDL7 modules ?? ) For the horn honk on lock the CH3 does this through CANBUS control. If you want to use stadard wiring for this, then use the suggestion in the last post.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: stiver_32
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:35 AM
UPDATE: I got everything done and working except for the parking lights due to time restraints. Now... do I have to trigger the parking lights via a relay if my remote starter has a selectable parking light output (can be switched from + or -) ?? I know I will need the resistors.... but isnt the relay only for vehicles that do not have a (-) neg parking light output?? Let me know. I plan on finishing this up tomorrow.
Thanks.
Posted By: stiver_32
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 7:37 PM
I am looking for some help. I know that the parking lights on a 07 Ram require a 1130 ohm neg trigger to activate. Does it only require a neg "pulse" to activate or a "constant" neg to keep the lights on?? My remote starter has the option for a (-) neg parking light output (which i assume is a constant signal).... can I simply solder the resistors to that wire and connect it to the trucks parking light wire?? or MUST i use a relay? If I need a relay.... how do I wire it?? I am guessing like this: 87 - output to trucks parking light wire 86 - positive trigger from remote starter 85 - ground 30 - ground Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for the help.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 1:13 PM
The difference between (-) and (+) parking light outputs from aftermarket RS/alarm/keyless units:
A (+) output is always a relayed output. Usually the relay's rated at 10A or so. Here's an example datasheet of one that's used in some remote starts(it's the SPDT variant).
The (+) output has basically no more resistance to constant 12V when it's active than if you'd run a wire directly to the positive battery terminal.
The (-) output is a low current transistorized output, which is designed only to drive a relay. With the jumper selecting "+" on your RS it will drive the internal parking light relay. Move the jumper to "-" and it will bypass that relay and its negative current will go directly to the white wire (I've assumed here that your lights are jumper selected and the parking light output wire is white), so that it can control a (-) switched relay on the car.
This (-) output, since it's supplying ground via several transistors, does have internal resistance to ground. So when working on a Chrysler with resistive parking lights, if you connected it directly with the (in this case) 1130 ohm resistor, the truck would see some much higher resistance and you'd probably get either no lights or the headlights would come on too.
I'd suggest 3 options:
1. Use a relay like you've suggested. You've got the pins right, and the resistor would be 1130 ohms(any value within 10% of that should work) and wired inline on the wire from 87 or from 30.
2. Get several resistors, and wire them inline on the wire from your RS(jumpered to (-) of course) going to the WHITE/ lt. green on the truck. Use trial and error until you find a resistor value that will activate only the lights that you want.
3. Assuming your factory parking light relay is (-) control, you could use the solution that some have done on Grand Cherokees which you also mention above, wrapping one of the relay terminals directly. The internal resistance inside your AutoCommand doesn't matter when driving a relay. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
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