Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2001 yukon, bulldog rs1200e

Its easy as pie to mount it on an 01 Yukon anyways, why bother to do without it. All you have to do is run the wire thru the firewall(which is pretty easy ifyou just poke it thru the main harness rubber bushing above the brake pedal. Then all you do is mount the switch on that curved corner braket that connects the fender to the firewall. You know which bracket I'm talking about, its right next to the hood hinges. Boom, yer done, thats it. Just make sire your height adjustment on the switch is right so that the switch is open wne the hood is closed, and the switch closes the circuit when the hood is open. I've done so many on GM full size trucks in that same spot. Even works so well it will usually shut down the engine just by pulling the hood pop cable, not even fully opening the hood. On top of all that, its another sensor you can hook to your alarm incase a theif tries to open your hood the alarm will go off. Some theives will actually be able to pop your hood thru the grill or by reaching fron underneath and then disconnect the battery and with no alarm goin off, have all the time in the world to remove your entire stereo system.

Like they say... you could have the best alarm system on the planet. But its only as good as the install. Same goes for stereos, you could have the best woofers around, but if you throw them in a cheap flimsy premade "pawn shop" box, and hook them up to a pyramid amp, they will sound like crap.

Hook it up!!!!.....it'll take 5 minutes. Cutdog504 explained it so it's really easy to do.

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..

Thanks for the quick replies! I hooked it up anyway. I spent the day installing it. GOing thru the firewall was not that easy after all lol.

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Jason Cowart

I got the Bulldog rs1200 remote starter for Christmas. I spent the day installing it and it is working great! I have a 2001 yukon. I am having a few anomalies that I thought I might toss out there for advice.

1. When I unlock the vehicle, my headlights stay on. I can manually turn them off (turn the switch on then off) and they go off, but they don't do it automatically. (side bar-my headlights are automatic on the vehicle. If it is dark, they turn on automatically)

2. After I follow the instructions to add a 2nd remote, the 2nd remote still doesn't work. Any ideas?

This took me a pretty long while to install (4-5 hours). This was my first remote starter install. I am a newbie to the remote starter tech but am very excited about completing the job! Thanx in advance for your replies.

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Jason Cowart

Follow up: the light issue is solved. They stay on for about 90 seconds as a courtesy, however, the other issue with the remote is valid.

Any help there??

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Jason Cowart

You can hook up the hood pin but in about 2 yrs it will be inop-- due to corrosion- so why bother? The hood pin switch is not wired in a failsafe mode- it must see a ground to disable-- a failsafe would be designed that it must see a ground to enable the starter- but then you would have remote starts that don't start (again due to corrosion) - all remote starters are like this. So tell me about the safety first aspect- the remote start designers would rather see their product work all the time, then to be concerned about it starting when someone is under the hood. Their design proves this. Other wise they would use stainless steel hood pins, or mercury switches, or reverse the failsafe mode. I have seen at least a dozen hood pins go inop over the last ten years- all due to corrosion

Corroded or not, you will never know that the switch is not working- unless you test for it- so there goes the mechanics fingers- all due to poor engineering design and our friend Mr Corrosion. A really prudent installer uses a mercury switch.

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.

I have already solved the hood pin issue. But thanks anyway.

I have noticed that I loose some function after the install, mainly, my door locks will no longer lock from the door panel switch. Its weird. Also, the "lock" button on my original remote (the factory remote) no longer works.

Any leads on that one??

Bulldog security says nada on their site about this.

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Jason Cowart

I installed a bulldog rs12ooe remote starter on a 2001 yukon and my door locks are no longer operational. (meaning the actual button on the door panel).

The keyless entry on the remote starter works great, but as I say the door lock switches on the doors do not.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix that?

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Jason Cowart

how did you wire the door locks for the keyless entry? did you wire them for a negative trigger type system?

Did you check all the fuses? You may not have power going to the lock switch, but the lock are working with the alarm because the alarm is sending power to the relays instead of the switch.
The relays and the switch in the door are on two seperate fuses.

which locks dont work drivers door or pass. door or all of them. gm has had problems with the master switch going bad which is at the drivers door. may want to check and see if the pass. side lock switch works.

Thanks for the replies. I have not checked the fuses. I will do that later on today.

All of the door lock switches do not work. ALso, on my factory remote, the unlock button works but the lock button does not.

I wondered if I had the wrong wire hooked up in the BCM. Here is what I mean:

In the yukon, there are 2 wires coming from the BCM that are needed to hook up the keyless entry , a light blue and a white for lock and unlock respectively.

However, there are actually 4 light blue wires coming from the BCM. What I did was attach the lock wire from the remote starter unit to the light blue wire that I thought was in the correct bin location based on the instructions. Perhaps this is the issue.

As far as the negative trigger system mentioned by ckeeler, I do not know if that is what is on my vehicle. I am quite new to this, sorry.

I will say the remote system works very well. I work in the 4th floor of my building on the opposite side of the building from our parking lot and I remote started from my desk. That's awesome!

Thanks for any suggestions in advance.

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Jason Cowart

You should NEVER hook anything up if your arn't sure it's the right wire. That is how sensitive electronic modules get damaged.

It's impossible to say where you hooked the (-) unlock output up and what kind of damage was done when the output sent a ground signal to the unidentified wire.

In your case I would recomend unhooking everything and focusing on getting the OEM stuff back working again. If you are lucky it's only a fuse, if you aren't lucky it's a BCM.

Then, once the car is fixed, if you still want the system installed either purchase a volt meter and learn to use it or take it a shop that can properly identify the wires in the vehicle. Hooking things up blindly is a guarenteed way to damage something.

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Kevin Pierson

Thanks for the response.

I didn't hook up anything blindly. I followed the directions to the T. The instructions gave the proper bin location, so I connected with that bin location.

I do know how to use a volt meter. Just before I made the connection, I checked the wire and got the correct reading.

The door locks work perfectly from the remote.

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Jason Cowart

So you did verify the wire? Your initial description didn't mention using a meter, just that you hooked it up to the wire that you "thought was in the correct bin location based on the instructions. " Any installer will tell you that the instructions arn't always right, and sometimes, like in your case, when they are there can be several possibilities in that general location.

How did you make your connections? Is there any possibility that the BCM output wire was cut and not connected back together properly?

Does the vehicle have an OEM keyless sytstem? If so, does it still work?

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Kevin Pierson

I did my verification based on what the instructions said and based on my reading. I can't remember exactly what the numerical reading was but the wire was (-).

The way I connected the wire was to strip a portion of about 3/4 of an inch of the wire bare all the way around (no cutting) and twisted, then soldered the wires together. The only way the wire could be disconnected is if it was pulled out of the BCM (which I did not notice). Then again, it may be out the tiniest bit and not receiving, I dont know.

I do have an OEM keyless system. The unlock button works fine, but the locks do not respond when I press the lock button on the OEM remote.

It is strange. Everything else works perfectly, just not the door locks switch. In fact, the switch on the door panel does not respond when I try to unlock it either.

To sum up, the OEM remote will unlock, but not lock. The door panel switches all the way around will neither lock nor unlock.

Hopefully that is clear.

Thanks for your help so far. I do appreciate it

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Jason Cowart

Have you tried disconnecting the door lock wires from the remote start unit to see if that allows your door lock switches to start working again? It's a long shot but it's worth taking a minute and trying it out.

I can't think of anything that would result in what you have - typically when the door lock switches don't lock/unlock the doors the OEM keyless remote won't either. Is there any other strange things going on with the vehicle? Is it possible that you have a bad door pin that is making the truck think a door is open and thus not allowing you to lock the doors?

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Kevin Pierson

No it is very strange. The doors lock and unlock perfectly with the remote starter remote, if that makes since. Every button on this remote works great.

But on the OEM and door panels, the lock feature does not work.

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Jason Cowart

To recap: Your factory door switches will not lock or unlock. Your factory remote will unlock, but will not lock. Focus on those issues. It sounds like 2 sperate issues.

Along the lines KPierson stated, you should partially disconnect your installation. I would start with disconnecting the R/S door lock outputs from the vehicle and see what results from the factory remotes and door switches. I would also check the drivers door pin. Does your door chime come on with the key in the ignition, with the driver's door open and closed? If you check, do not turn the key forward, just put it in the ignition. Also, check the factory remote operation with the vehicle started.

Okay here's what I did:

1. Contacted the GMC dealership today and they are faxing me the BCM wiring diagram so I can be 1000000% sure what is going on there, even though I have been confident that I connected with the right wire.

2. I followed the above advice and checked the fuses for the locking system. Here's what happened:

I noticed there were 2 fuses that controlled the lock action in the fuse box under the dash. One was a 20 amp and the other a 3 amp. I noticed the 3 amp was burnt out. I replaced it with another 3 amp and tried the locks. They worked!, BUT it blew the fuse again. This must mean the instructions were incorrect and the wire I connected with is the positive instead or the negative.

Is my assumption correct? Or is there another issue here?

Thanks in advance.

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Jason Cowart

LOL! I tried following this thread, but I can't tell what's actually been connected from the R/S to the vehicle and what signal it's been programmed to send, if any. I would suggest, as I did before, you disconnect your R/S lock/unlock wires from the vehicle and start from there. I'm not sure if others would agree with me, but I would highy suggest you diode isolate your lock/unlock wires in-line, from the R/S. This will protect the R/S on-board lock/unlock circuit, because of the flip-flop interface, from being shorted if someone operates the opposite vehicle switch and remote, at the same time. I'm not sure if BDS uses that interface, but DEI certainly does. Correct me if I'm wrong!

Note: I'm showing that vehicle with positive door locks.

Sorry if all of this has been confusing. I have included what the manual said below and an image of the module. Note the door locking section is at the top. I connected the door unlock wire (gree/black) to the white wire in my bcm which is the door unlock. I connected the door lock wire (blue/black) to the light blue wire on the bcm that controls the locks. While there were 4 wires that were light blue coming from the bcm, I followed the instructions below and identified the correct wire. (based on the instructions) The only way I could have gone wrong is if the manual itself is not correct.

Hopefully that explains it a little better.

Thanks for your replies in advance

“Type A” Door Lock Test (Most GMs and some Chryslers)
Press and hold the lock button on the switch and test the lock wire. The correct wire will test (+) positive.
Release the lock button and this wire should show a (-) negative. Now press and hold the unlock button on the switch and test the unlock wire. The correct wire will test (+) positive. Release the unlock button and this wire should show a (-) negative. Your vehicle has a “Type A” door locking system.

posted_image

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Jason Cowart

Ok. What is the RED / BLACK from the module connected to? I would recommend you replace the fuse with a 3 amp. Also, follow the GREEN / WHITE and BLUE/WHITE, to make sure they are not connected to anything, such as accidental grounding.

Regarding my previous post, you have relays, so the issue with diode isolating does not pertain. However, when the outputs are not driven by relays, then this does pertain.

the RED / black called for simply a constant (12v) power source so it is connected to a constant source.

I understand about the diode isolating.

The unused wires are coiled out of the way with electrical tape on the ends, so I don't see how there could be a grounding issue. but that is clever. I'll double check when I get off work

What would cause that 3 amp fuse in my fuse box to blow?

When I replaced it, it did not, but as soon as I pressed the lock switch on the door panel, it blew.

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Jason Cowart

jcowart wrote:

What would cause that 3 amp fuse in my fuse box to blow?

I was reffering to the fuse on the RED / BLACK wire. If you can find a 2-amp or 1-amp ATC fuse, that would be even better.

jcowart wrote:

When I replaced it, it did not, but as soon as I pressed the lock switch on the door panel, it blew.

As I've stated before, pull the R/S lock/unlock wires off the vehicle and test. It's possible, though unlikely and not designed that way, that the R/S lock(BLUE/BLACK) wire is providing a ground at rest, and maybe even the R/S lock(GREEN/ BLACK) wire also, if you haven't tested unlock yet. You can test for these, once their off the vehicle.

Also, that logic probe your using is not going to help you diagnose. Get a DMM !!!!!!! Your factory lock/unlock wires are negative at rest, but not a direct ground. They should show ~250 ohms resistance to ground. Forget what that manual is telling you and put the logic probe aside.

PLEASE DON'T TAKE THIS THE WRONG WAY.

Are you color blind by any chance. I have dealt with a few installers who were and they had a difficult time discerning the correct wires in specific color ranges.

No. I am not color blind.

I was just faxed the BCM C1 Wiring Diagram from GMC. I connected the proper wire to the proper connection based on the diagram.

A4. LT BLU Door Lock Control.

I really don't get it. Everything is connected properly.

I'll disconnect the door lock and unlock wires tonight and see if the factory switches start working again.

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Jason Cowart