2003 yukon no crank when it's cold out
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110309
Printed Date: May 01, 2024 at 9:44 PM
Topic: 2003 yukon no crank when it's cold out
Posted By: ernmang2
Subject: 2003 yukon no crank when it's cold out
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:12 PM
2003 yukon No Crank...when its cold out (Michigan) ...it has a RS system I think its a viper, everything worked fine and it started to do this no crank thing (security light on dash when it happens) I am not sure if it has a bypass module or a resister... I still need to do some homework its not my truck but I am trying to help out. I am not even sure its a RS issue I thought GMC had some phantom No Cranks problems. Anything that rings a bell ??? I sure would appeciate it. Thanks Ernie
Replies:
Posted By: djfearny2
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:18 PM
it does have a bypass module. a lot of time the installer does not use one and figures out the resistance in the car instead and installs a resistor. a bypass module will change or adjust automatically whith conditions. however when a resistor is cold it may change value and seast to exist.
who did the install.>? you should have a module like a dei 555l or 556lw installed along with a remote start system. yukons have had chipped keys for years probably before 98 so an 03 deffinitely has one.
-------------
Jon
Installer/Help Technician
---coral springs florida---
mecp certification is not always needed. I have it and it has not helped me out at all. my experience out shines it.
Posted By: xplorin16
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:23 PM
2003 Yukon doesnt have a chip key its passlock, the immobilizer is sent a signal from the r-code wire when the key turns in the ignition. The bypass reproduces this when remote starting, doesnt matter if they used a xk01, 555l, 1700g, or two relays with resisitors, they all use resisitances and can be affected by weather. I doubt this is the issue, but like alot of bypasses they can be affected by weather. If it is a learning module its best to program the bypass when its cold, ive heard stories of ppl putting them in a freezer for a few minutes or in the fridge. If its the two relays that shouldnt needed. Regardless take it to a certified professional for them to diagnose the issue. Keep us posted. ------------- Advanced MECP
Posted By: ernmang2
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:33 PM
I forgot to mention they told me that it would also do the no crank thing even when starting it normally he would end up sitting there and keep tring the key until it would crank .......with security light on -on the dash I am thinking it an factory alarm problem ...
Posted By: xplorin16
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:37 PM
Yea thats a big bit of info to leave out, lol. Passlock systems are notorius for having issues. Take a trip to your dealer.
-------------
Advanced MECP
Posted By: djfearny2
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:41 PM
the chip in the key might be going bad and if you have a module the module will continuously reprogram with the key. when that happens try to use the other key to see if it is related.
-------------
Jon
Installer/Help Technician
---coral springs florida---
mecp certification is not always needed. I have it and it has not helped me out at all. my experience out shines it.
Posted By: xplorin16
Date Posted: January 03, 2009 at 10:42 PM
There is no chip in the key for that vehicle, its passlock not passkey.
-------------
Advanced MECP
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 11:11 AM
this vehicle uses a resistance that is built into the lock cylinder, there is no chip in the key.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 04, 2009 at 4:35 PM
Again, to reiterate: Passlock II on this yukon does not use a chip of any kind in the key - it's in the lock cylinder.
The problem could be either a defective key cylinder resistor, or more likely a bad connection somewhere in between the key cylinder and the Body Control Module. Many passlock bypass modules interrupt the R-code wire from the key cylinder, and if the module itself got unplugged, or one of its wire connections to the car was poor, that could cause the problem you're describing.
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 7:06 PM
I think there needs to be some clarification on whether or not the engine cranks or not when cold. Does the engine turn over, but not start? If so then you may have a Passlock II problem. If the enigne won't even crank, then the issue is not with the Passlock II system. If the Passlock II system has a fault or the bypass that is used is faulty, the motor will still crank, but it won't start. If the engine won't turn over, check the battery terminals are clean and tight. Take the terminals off and inspect the rubber boots aren't hiding corrosion. Clean the main battery ground cable at the frame rail above the driver's side tow hook behind the bumper. Check that the ignition switch and other dash harnesses are fully plugged in. Proper diagnosis requires detailed info of what is going on in order to fix the problem.
-------------
sparky
Posted By: jinstall
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 7:35 PM
everything said so far is great info, but you didn't tell us if it's set for voltage sense or if you used the tach wire. it may not be that complicated. vipers are great for programming a stubborn car to run on voltage check and get them to work, but of course tach is always better. if we had this info it'd be easiewr to find out what's wrong. even if you did hook up tach then at least there's no further questions and we know it's passlock kicking you out.
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 7:35 PM
sparkie wrote:
If the engine won't turn over, check the battery terminals are clean and tight. Take the terminals off and inspect the rubber boots aren't hiding corrosion. Clean the main battery ground cable at the frame rail above the driver's side tow hook behind the bumper. Check that the ignition switch and other dash harnesses are fully plugged in. Proper diagnosis requires detailed info of what is going on in order to fix the problem.
we can rule those out sparkie. if it were any of those problems, it wouldnt start with the key either. 
Posted By: ernmang2
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 8:57 PM
Guys, I did not put the RS system in... it was already installed when they purchased the vehicle.... when it acts up it Does Not Crank ...click... turn over... nothing totally dead with security light on the dash (on) I dont know if its set for voltage or tach. one thing I just found out is that there are no factory remotes when vehicle was purchased (used).... only has the RS remotes Thanks for all the input...
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 9:46 PM
It still may be a Passlock problem - on some vehicles if the BCM receives an incorrect R-code it will cause a "crank, no start" condition. On others it will cause a "no crank" condition.
ernmang2, I would suggest the following test, assuming you've got a good battery.
1. Go to the underhood fusebox, and remove the "Starter" relay.
2. Turn the key to the "Run" position(where it would be while driving).
3. Using a jumper wire, short together terminals 87 and 30 where the relay was plugged in.
If it doesn't crank at all, check the "Ign A" 40A fuse in that fusebox. If the fuse is good, try shorting 12V from the battery directly to terminal 87. If it still doesn't crank it's most likely a problem with the starter itself.
If it cranks and runs, that suggests a problem with the starting circuit on the vehicle. Check the "Crank" 10A fuse in the underhood fusebox to see that it's not blown and has 12V during crank. If it doesn't have 12V check the yellow starter wire at the ignition switch for a break.
If it cranks, starts, and immediately dies, that suggests a problem with the Passlock. Verify that the bypass module is plugged in and that the 3 wires from the Passlock sensor in the key cylinder are not broken. (The yellow R-code wire may have been cut and connected to 2 separate wires from the bypass module, depending on the particular bypass used. Verify that these connections are intact.
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 4:48 PM
this generation of GM truck has had issues with bum starters.... i've had to troubleshoot 2 or 3 already that had funky starters with this exact symptom... turn the key, nothing happens... keep trying until it decides to start... all of these cases were bum starters and nothing to do with the R/S units installed..... just something to look into..... ------------- Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: mike swanson
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 7:51 PM
The 1st thing is to see if the security light goes off
Put the key in and DONT start it just turn it to IGN Not RUN
wait for bout 4 secs and if the security light goes off, it is not the
IGN or resitors in it
If the light stays on its the Bypass or IGN
|