add on alarm and remote start problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110369
Printed Date: July 06, 2025 at 7:42 PM
Topic: add on alarm and remote start problem
Posted By: UNCLEMIKE1
Subject: add on alarm and remote start problem
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 4:55 PM
OK, i'm going to try and explain this without boring the hell out of everybody. I just bought a 2009 toyota camry and had the dealer put in the add on alarm and renote start. They used Pursuit (audiovox) alarm model PRO 9233 and Pursuit remote start model PRO9051. The problem I'm having is if the remote start either runs its complete time or if its turned off manually it triggers the alarm. Basically whats happening is on the factory toyota system, when you turn off the ignition the dome light goes on and thats what is triggering the alarm. The alarm module only has a shunt for the trunk and NOT the door trigger. Is there some type of fix for this or can i create a shunt myself? Thanks
Replies:
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 6:48 PM
how long does the dome light stay on?
Posted By: UNCLEMIKE1
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 6:56 PM
ckeeler wrote:
how long does the dome light stay on?
Approx. 3 mins. if the door is not open and then shut again.
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 7:10 PM
well you had the dealer install it, bring it back to them and tell them the store where they installed it. the shop if reputable will fix it free of charge.
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 7:19 PM
ok thats a little long, longer than i thought. at any rate, what needs to be done is the factory door trigger wire in the car needs to have a diode installed on the door pin wire with the white band facing toward the door. then the door trigger wire to the alarm will have to be connected somewhere on the door pin wire between the door side and diode so that the negative voltage will still flow from the door pin to the alarm but be blocked from bleeding back to that wire off the OEM side. the door triggers should already be installed at each door and diode isolated, so its just a matter of adding in the extra diodes on each factory door pin wire to block off the BCM signal.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 7:52 PM
Chances are they used the brown domelight wire as the door trigger, there's nothing wrong with that. The problem here is that just won't work in this case. As ckeeler stated, what needs to be done is grab 4 individual door triggers and diode isolate them then use that as door trigger. This will stop the dome light from triggering the alarm. The 4 triggers can be found on the BECU behind the drivers knee bolster...
-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 05, 2009 at 8:04 PM
Mike M2 wrote:
Chances are they used the brown domelight wire as the door trigger, there's nothing wrong with that. The problem here is that just won't work in this case. As ckeeler stated, what needs to be done is grab 4 individual door triggers and diode isolate them then use that as door trigger. This will stop the dome light from triggering the alarm. The 4 triggers can be found on the BECU behind the drivers knee bolster...
yes but not only that Mike, the OE door pin wires need to have diodes put in as well. pick up all the door pin wires individually and diode isolate them so they cant backfeed into one another AND also a diode on each OEM door pin wire to diode block the BCM signal back to the door pin switch, with the trigger wire to the alarm "between" the the door pin and diode.
Posted By: UNCLEMIKE1
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 5:20 AM
Would anybody happen to have a diagram of the way this should be done. I can relate to what you guys are saying a little better if I'm looking at a schematic. I understand the concept though. Thanks in advance. Boy you guys are really helpful on this forum. I have to make it a point to stop by a lot more frequently then I have in the past.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 6:23 AM
ckeeler wrote:
Mike M2 wrote:
Chances are they used the brown domelight wire as the door trigger, there's nothing wrong with that. The problem here is that just won't work in this case. As ckeeler stated, what needs to be done is grab 4 individual door triggers and diode isolate them then use that as door trigger. This will stop the dome light from triggering the alarm. The 4 triggers can be found on the BECU behind the drivers knee bolster...
yes but not only that Mike, the OE door pin wires need to have diodes put in as well. pick up all the door pin wires individually and diode isolate them so they cant backfeed into one another AND also a diode on each OEM door pin wire to diode block the BCM signal back to the door pin switch, with the trigger wire to the alarm "between" the the door pin and diode.
On some cars yes, but i don't believe this is needed on a Camry. The door signal won't backfeed from the BCM like an old Mustang will. 4 diodes should do it.... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 6:26 AM
About the diodes:
https://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp
Look at that page, about halfway down on the left. The diagram shows a two-door car, but you could simply add two more diodes to the setup, and connect them to your rear door wires.
By the way, where was your install done? In Massachusetts by chance? That combination of products sounds like something some of my co-workers (from our other location) have used.
Regardless, whoever installed it should fix this issue under warranty at no cost to you.
It's also an issue I'd never thought of before. If I get the occasion to install this setup again, I'll check the car's domelight to see if it comes on at shutdown.
Most alarm/start combination units are smart enough to ignore the door trigger at startup and shutdown, but since the PRO9233 isn't generally expected to be installed along with a remote starter, they didn't include that feature.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 6:32 AM
Here is a simple diagram showing a 2 door car. You need to just do this for all 4 doors and tie them all to the alarm negative door trigger input. The LF door is blue at the BCM, 26 pin plug, pin 24 The RF door is yellow at the BCM, 28 pin plug, pin 21 The LR door is Lt. green at the fuse box, right side, 13 pin plug, pin 7 The RR door is gray at the BCM, 28 pin plug, pin 5 or 7 The BCM is attched to the back of the fuse box behind the driver knee bolster. You may find it easier to go to the kickpanels and get the wires there. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: UNCLEMIKE1
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 11:15 AM
Chris Luongo wrote:
About the diodes:
https://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp
Look at that page, about halfway down on the left. The diagram shows a two-door car, but you could simply add two more diodes to the setup, and connect them to your rear door wires.
By the way, where was your install done? In Massachusetts by chance? That combination of products sounds like something some of my co-workers (from our other location) have used.
Regardless, whoever installed it should fix this issue under warranty at no cost to you.
It's also an issue I'd never thought of before. If I get the occasion to install this setup again, I'll check the car's domelight to see if it comes on at shutdown.
Most alarm/start combination units are smart enough to ignore the door trigger at startup and shutdown, but since the PRO9233 isn't generally expected to be installed along with a remote starter, they didn't include that feature.
Yes the system was installed by a company out of mass. The name is Auto Sound. Are youfamiliar with them?
Posted By: UNCLEMIKE1
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 11:17 AM
Mike M2 wrote:
Here is a simple diagram showing a 2 door car. You need to just do this for all 4 doors and tie them all to the alarm negative door trigger input.
 The LF door is blue at the BCM, 26 pin plug, pin 24 The RF door is yellow at the BCM, 28 pin plug, pin 21 The LR door is Lt. green at the fuse box, right side, 13 pin plug, pin 7 The RR door is gray at the BCM, 28 pin plug, pin 5 or 7 The BCM is attched to the back of the fuse box behind the driver knee bolster. You may find it easier to go to the kickpanels and get the wires there.
I can't find those colors at the BCU at all. The car is a Camry LE that doesn't come with a factory security system at all. Does this make a difference in the BCM?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 06, 2009 at 7:25 PM
Again, it probably is easier to go to both kickpanels and get both front and rear there. I seem to recall doing this before and the wires being on the back of the BCM making them hard to get to. Also this may help. On the 4 runner, if you don't connect the accessory wire on the RS the domelight does not come on after it shuts off. All this does is stop the radio from working while remote started. It may be the same on the Camry. You could try disconnecting the fat purple wire on the 9051 and see what happens. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: UNCLEMIKE1
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 5:07 AM
Mike M2 wrote:
Again, it probably is easier to go to both kickpanels and get both front and rear there. I seem to recall doing this before and the wires being on the back of the BCM making them hard to get to.
Also this may help. On the 4 runner, if you don't connect the accessory wire on the RS the domelight does not come on after it shuts off. All this does is stop the radio from working while remote started. It may be the same on the Camry. You could try disconnecting the fat purple wire on the 9051 and see what happens.
I will definitely try this today when i get out of work. Yeah, there is a lot of wires going to the BCM. Maybe that does explain why I can't see all of them. Thanks
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 6:30 AM
UNCLEMIKE1 wrote:
Yes the system was installed by a company out of mass. The name is Auto Sound. Are you familiar with them?
I thought so, that's where I work!
We have two locations, one in Middleton, the other in Plainville. I work in Middleton. I'm guessing your car was done out of Plainville.
I'm just an installer, and please understand that I don't handle appointments, warranty issues or any of that. I just come to the forums for the technical stuff.
But the company I work for does stand behind their work, and I'm sure they'll correct the problem for you at no charge.
If you call the dealer you bought the car from, talk to the salesman, he'll set up a time for you to bring the car back to the dealer (you may need to drop it off and leave it there), and an installer would come there and fix it.
If you are near Plainville, you could call 508-643-9925, ask for Trevor, and see if you could bring it right in there to them.
It might be even easier for you to just wait until the car needs its next service (oil change or whatever), drop it at the dealer, and have the service done and the alarm fixed on the same day.....just an idea.
But definitely call either the dealership (best) or Trevor, and I'm sure they'll get it taken care of for you.
Posted By: UNCLEMIKE1
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 6:03 PM
Chris Luongo wrote:
UNCLEMIKE1 wrote:
Yes the system was installed by a company out of mass. The name is Auto Sound. Are you familiar with them?
I thought so, that's where I work!
We have two locations, one in Middleton, the other in Plainville. I work in Middleton. I'm guessing your car was done out of Plainville.
I'm just an installer, and please understand that I don't handle appointments, warranty issues or any of that. I just come to the forums for the technical stuff.
But the company I work for does stand behind their work, and I'm sure they'll correct the problem for you at no charge.
If you call the dealer you bought the car from, talk to the salesman, he'll set up a time for you to bring the car back to the dealer (you may need to drop it off and leave it there), and an installer would come there and fix it.
If you are near Plainville, you could call 508-643-9925, ask for Trevor, and see if you could bring it right in there to them.
It might be even easier for you to just wait until the car needs its next service (oil change or whatever), drop it at the dealer, and have the service done and the alarm fixed on the same day.....just an idea.
But definitely call either the dealership (best) or Trevor, and I'm sure they'll get it taken care of for you.
Dude, before I start my rants and raves about this whole thing let me say that in no way am I trying to vent on you or anything. I called Trevor and asked him if we could go to each door trigger and diode isolate instead of using the dome light wire. He told me that it couldn't be done and I asked him why and he told me that the LE camry has a different BCM than the XLE etc. So isolating each door couldn't be done (cough, cough, bulldoodieter). LOL. I mean common, after Trevor told me that they have done about a 1000 toyotas this year and have had similar problems before with SOME of them tells me this dude doesn't know his stuff (deep breath). If this is what you do for a living you should really know your stuff. Especially if the body style of the car has been around for a couple of years. I install on the side myself and I'm very familiar with wiring. When I post a question on this forum I like to play stupid for a while until my question is answered. I went out side and pulled out each door switch to check the colors against the Audiovox info and they all match, which again tells me that Trevor doesn't know his stuff. The other problem that I have is that every installer knows that if the headlights on older models are left on when the car is turned off they need to see the door open to turn off the lights. The new Toyotas have a setting called AUTO, its the same thing the door still needs to be opened to get the headlights to turn off. How come none of you guys wire in a relay to either the ignition or use the black w/red wire on the module for a pulsed output after shutdown to interrupt the drivers door switch and introduce a ground so that the lights turn off after shut down? I guess to answer my own question, more work more money right? Well if you have to get paid for it raise the price that the dealer tells us it will cost and start doing this as a standard. You guys do very clean work and I'm not trying to take that away from you, but I'm not a 90 year old lady who isn't going to know the difference, ya know? I have a big pet peeve about things that aren't done the right way and when I have to deal with salesman or people like Trevor, it rubs me the wrong way because talking to them is like talking to a brick wall (deep breath). Sorry about the rants, but i had to let it out man, ya know? Its just frustration. I do appreciate the replies and look forward to speaking to you again. Thanks
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 7:30 PM
UNCLEMIKE1 wrote:
The other problem that I have is that every installer knows that if the headlights on older models are left on when the car is turned off they need to see the door open to turn off the lights. The new Toyotas have a setting called AUTO, its the same thing the door still needs to be opened to get the headlights to turn off. How come none of you guys wire in a relay to either the ignition or use the black w/red wire on the module for a pulsed output after shutdown to interrupt the drivers door switch and introduce a ground so that the lights turn off after shut down?
you mean that store that did the install when you say "none of you guys" right? there are lots of guys on here that always pulse the door pin wire to shut off the headlights. i always do. heck sometimes i even break a wire at the back of the switch with a relay so they dont even come on during remote start. on some newer GM's the auto headlight feature is defeated if the BCM sees the parking brake on, in which case i connect the GWR to the emergency brake wire so the headlights wont come on. works great. i am a little suprised they didnt hook up that wire to turn off your headlights though.....i mean dang....its only one more wire. P.S. a relay is not needed to turn of the headlights if all your gonna do is pulse the door pin wire.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 8:00 PM
I believe that is what he meant, but i could see where it could be thought of oin a different way.As for the autolight situation, Pulsing the door trigger won't work as it will trigger the alarm when it shuts down. In this case, the relay is the best option for turning them off... I wouldn't be upset about the way it was installed, an easy mistake the way it triggers the alarm. It isn't common to group these two products together as Pursuit makes other units that will do it all in one for a lot less cost. The installer probably wasn't around long enough to see what happens after the RS times out(understandably). The real issue is getting lied to about fixing it..... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 8:10 PM
Mike M2 wrote:
As for the autolight situation, Pulsing the door trigger won't work as it will trigger the alarm when it shuts down. In this case, the relay is the best option for turning them off... I wouldn't be upset about the way it was installed, an easy mistake the way it triggers the alarm.
Mike, Mike, Mike.........my earlier post about adding diodes on the actual OE wires then puting the alarm trigger wire between is why you can just pulse the wire and not set off the alarm. you put the pulse after shut down on the other side of the diode from the trigger wire for the alarm!  you dont need a realy!! and i still say adding the diodes is not a bad idea either. and besides, if a guy just wanted not to do all 4 wires that way........fine.........just do the one wire your gonna pulse after shutdown with the diode installed like i described. it wont trigger the alarm.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 9:07 PM
.. not to rain on anyone's parade, but a canuter valve would have solved this issue, if it had been installed properly.
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 9:28 PM
um yea whatever. right along with a doohickey and a thing-a-ma--jig too huh?
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 9:33 PM
ckeeler wrote:
um yea whatever. right along with a doohickey and a thing-a-ma--jig too huh?
Hey, if it works...? Note: I'm just trying to add a little humor here and there.
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 07, 2009 at 11:55 PM
ckeeler wrote:
um yea whatever. right along with a doohickey and a thing-a-ma--jig too huh?
No, a doohickey is only used when you need the install to be weathertight. And a think-a-ma-jig is for European cars. The canooter valve is clearly the right component for this situation, unless the car's a GT hatchback (you know the ones with the permanently sealed muffler bearings that you don't have to grease every oil change).
On a more serious note, Unclemike1, if the guy you talked to is a sales person, service manager, etc. I'm not really surprised that he didn't know diode isolation or auto light shutdown. Hell, most installers I've ever dealt with (and I don't mean just the DIYers on this forum) don't have a clue how relays or diodes work and will not ever install them without having either a diagram or an experienced installer walking them through it.
But in this case, given the professional reputation of the shop I'm not sure why the guy you talked to didn't just go ask another installer if it could be done. Or call Chris Luongo up...Chris is possibly the best security/remote start guy on this forum.
99 times out of a hundred a shop can get away with just telling the customer that there's no way to make the remote start do the following:
- disarm the factory alarm
- relock the doors after shutdown
- cancel the RAP/radio/autolamps
- activate the rear defogger
- integrate with an aftermarket alarm without requiring the user to manually disarm prior to remote starting
- avoid slightly grinding the starter or taking multiple tries to start
- bypass the immobilizer without sacrificing one of the vehicle's keys
- flash the parking lights
- shut down automatically when you hit the brake
Either that, or they can charge extra for any of those things. I'm probably exaggerating slightly, but I shudder to think at what shops do to sell remote starts for $99 installed. ------------- C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 12:37 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:
ckeeler wrote:
um yea whatever. right along with a doohickey and a thing-a-ma--jig too huh?
No, a doohickey is only used when you need the install to be weathertight. And a think-a-ma-jig is for European cars. The canooter valve is clearly the right component here.
LOL! OLD SCHOOL!
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 12:50 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:
... 99 times out of a hundred a shop can get away with just telling the customer that there's no way to make the remote start do the following:
- disarm the factory alarm
- relock the doors after shutdown
- cancel the RAP/radio/autolamps
- activate the rear defogger
- integrate with an aftermarket alarm without requiring the user to manually disarm prior to remote starting
- avoid slightly grinding the starter or taking multiple tries to start
- bypass the immobilizer without sacrificing one of the vehicle's keys
- flash the parking lights
- shut down automatically when you hit the brake
So true.
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 6:56 AM
ckeeler wrote:
Mike M2 wrote:
As for the autolight situation, Pulsing the door trigger won't work as it will trigger the alarm when it shuts down. In this case, the relay is the best option for turning them off... I wouldn't be upset about the way it was installed, an easy mistake the way it triggers the alarm.
Mike, Mike, Mike.........my earlier post about adding diodes on the actual OE wires then puting the alarm trigger wire between is why you can just pulse the wire and not set off the alarm. you put the pulse after shut down on the other side of the diode from the trigger wire for the alarm! you dont need a realy!! I stand corrected!! :) and i still say adding the diodes is not a bad idea either. and besides, if a guy just wanted not to do all 4 wires that way........fine.........just do the one wire your gonna pulse after shutdown with the diode installed like i described. it wont trigger the alarm.
------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 9:33 AM
chriswallace187 wrote:
No, a doohickey is only used when you need the install to be weathertight. And a think-a-ma-jig is for European cars. The canooter valve is clearly the right component for this situation, unless the car's a GT hatchback (you know the ones with the permanently sealed muffler bearings that you don't have to grease every oil change).
I dunno, i typically just use a WHAT-CHYA-MA-CALL-IT for every situation regardless.
Posted By: UNCLEMIKE1
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 1:30 PM
I guess the only solution is to stop by the shop with a hand writen diagram and tell them I want it done or your gonna give me a refund or be sued. I getting a little tired of half assers. To everybody who helped out, I do appreciate the replies. Thanks
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 08, 2009 at 2:09 PM
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: January 12, 2009 at 6:50 AM
Unclemike1,
I was talking to Trevor and one of the installers at the other store the other day, and from the sounds of it, it must have been your car that they had been working on again.
From what I gather, they wired up the four separate doorpins, as well as interrupted the automatic headlamps during remote start.
I'm sorry I can't get too involved in the customer-service side of the issue, but I do know how frustrating it is to have to return multiple times to get something the way you want it.
I do hope that all the technical issues with your car have now been resolved.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 12, 2009 at 11:52 AM
Sorry but I've got to get back at Chris for his telling me off about lock descriptions, it's spelt THINGAMYJIG over here AKA whatsajamacallits, this is the place that used to have British Leyland where they invented shoulder bolts,. ie anything left over, chuck it over your shoulder and don't forget flomelgrommetts, don't ask....
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 12, 2009 at 1:20 PM
howie...I've heard similar stories about GM auto workers in the 70s and handfuls of screws they would shove under the back seat.
Also a great quote from the current Duke of Edinburgh using the word "thingamy" that I can't recall right now.
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: January 12, 2009 at 2:22 PM
i like it how on the older GM's (70's through early 80's) that had the cheap thin crappy tin door sill plates, the auto worker guys, if the holes in them didnt match right up to the hole underneath they wouldnt even try lining them up, they just screwed the screw in right there making a new hole right next to the predrilled one, haha. good job GM, way to go, and give yourself a pat on the back for building quality products all these years! you know, when i pull apart the newer ones i can see at least they are trying to do better, but some things just never change alot.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 12, 2009 at 3:06 PM
With ref to sills, ever seen a far eastern manufacturer stupid enough to use metal screws into metal to hold one in?
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