Printer Friendly Forum Posts - viper 5701, 1997 honda civic

Currently I am having difficulty wiring the Viper 5701 system in my car, and I am now seeking your help. Most of the wires have been installed and I'm now working on the remote start wiring. I'm hoping you can solve my first dilemma with my car.

The info:
- 1997 Honda Civic HX w/ manual transmission
- Viper 5701 Responder LE 2-Way Security and Remote Start System

The part I'm confuse about is where I should I tie in the Viper wires into the car for the remote start. I can't figure out what wires should be cut, tired in, or in what spot on the line itself; before or after another tied in line.

The wires I have that the Viper system needs to tie into are the following:

Starter (turns car on): BLACK/ White
Ignition 1 (Car Run): BLACK / YELLOW
Ignition 2 (Climate): Yellow
Accessory (Radio): WHITE/ Black

Here are the resources:
- Remote starter install instructions (shortened)
- Civic Schematic
- Viper 5701 Installation Instructions (Full)

Also here is what I have finally come up with. Hopefully it is correct...

Idea for how it's wired

Constant 12V+	White	Ignition Switch Harness
Starter	BLACK/ White	Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition	BLACK / YELLOW	Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2	Yellow	Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory	WHITE/ Black	Ignition Switch Harness

From the 5701's H3 connector:

RED, RED / WHITE, & RED / BLACK goes to CONSTANT 12V+.

VIOLET goes to STARTER(car side).

GREEN goes to STARTER(key side).

PINK goes to IGNITION.

PINK/WHITE FLEX RELAY goes to IGNITION2.

ORANGE goes to ACCESSORY.

All others are not used and should be insulated.

You are a god send. After reading your setup, it makes perfect sense now.

I assume when they ask you to cut the starter wire for the violet and green wires, the car will still work with a key through the viper's relay...

ok let me clarify a little more than loneranger, the wires posted above will be found at the ignition harness exitting the sterring panel, you can tap in to the respective wires, the only wire that needs to be cut would be the starter wire,(only if you would like the starter kill and anti-grind features to work) where the green goes towards the ignition switch and the violet to the other side, if ur still not clear post back.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

t&t tech wrote:

ok let me clarify a little more than loneranger, the wires posted above will be found at the ignition harness exitting the sterring panel, you can tap in to the respective wires, the only wire that needs to be cut would be the starter wire,(only if you would like the starter kill and anti-grind features to work) where the green goes towards the ignition switch and the violet to the other side, if ur still not clear post back.

Ah I see why it should be cut now. Yeah I definitely want those features! Thanks a ton.

I've come across one more issue which deals with the rear defroster. I'm not sure where to tie the wire into again, and there are two possible wires to use.

- Schematic of the defroster

The possible wire are:

BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2nd Status/defroster output
This wire supplies a 200mA output as soon as the module begins the remote start process. The H3/1 BLUE wire can also be used to activate the defogger trigger (latched/pulsed) 10-seconds after the remote start engages. (See the Feature Descriptions, Menu#3, feature 11 for details about programming this output.)

or

BLUE (-) 200mA status output
This wire supplies an output as soon as the module begins the remote start process. It can be used to activate a bypass module or power the key sense wire in most vehicles to disarm the factory alarm without unlocking. Note: Check vehicle information to verify if a bypass module is needed or if the key sense wire is needed.

I'm going to assume that the BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA goes between the defroster switch and the relay; tied into the BLUE / YELLOW wire.

Yes. I would install a diode in-line on the BLU/YEL and tap in between the diode and relay. Don't forget to program that ouput, because the 5701 on-board temperature sensor will decide(below 50F), when to allow ouput.

Sweet, thanks! While we are on the topic of diodes, besides the defroster and clutch trigger requiring a diode, will I need one for the horn as well?

H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) Horn honk output
This wire is a low current output (200mA) and can be hooked to the horn honk wire in the vehicle. It can be programmed to sound only during full trigger or to be used like a siren output with arm/disarm chirps. Refer to System Features Menu#1, Feature 10 for more information.

It shouldn't need it but, it can't hurt. DIODES ARE FUN! WEE!

NEXT PROBLEM!

So finally I got the whole thing hooked up. Door locks, alarm, parking lights, horn, they all work.... But the remote start doesn't. I checked the diagnostics and I get 7 flashes from the parking lights:

7 flashes - Manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized.

I know it's not the clutch, hood pin, trunk & door trigger, or the e-brake they are wired properly. I tried starting the car with the key, and it cranks, but it will not run.

Heh, this stuff never ends... Looks like I'll be making another 4 mile walk to work in the snow again.

I tried again today, and I've come to two possibilities why the car will crank but not run.

- Battery is drained slightly from being unplugged in 10 degree weather.
- Something is lose or unplugged and I can't find it.

Power is going to all key positions and everything works; radio, climate control, etc.

I hope it's the battery and I need a jump.

If it cranks, it's not the battery. You can try charging the electrical system but, I would suggest you look at the ignition system. You should check for spark. If you get spark, then your looking at timing or FUEL FEED, as in a frozen fuel line or a non-functioning fuel pump(electrical or mechanical).

if it cranks with the key but does not run, then check ur ignition wire, for current while the key is on and during cranking, make sure ur harness is in properly on the switch, if all is well post back for the next possible troubleshoot.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I finally got it to start once it got to about 20 degrees today! The fuel feed was a little bit frozen.

So everything is almost done, and technically I could keep it as is, but I'd like to get this system working properly. Currently I can only get the car to remote start in Automatice mode... In manual mode I get the same diagnostics message, "7 flashes - Manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized."

Also I noticed the Tach Learning procedure does not work:

1. start vehicle with the key
2. with 5 seconds press and hold Valet/Program switch.
3. after 3 seconds the LED will light constant when the tach signal is learned.
4. release Valet/Program switch.

I do not get the LED light to turn on constant on step three, nothing happens. I also tried the Tach Threshold On/Off switch, but that does not work either...

Any ideas?

Alright, I checked the tach wire again and found out I tied into the incorrect blue wire. After making the switch, I got everything to function properly, manual remote start and all. So with this, I think it's safe to say I have no more issues or questions.

THANK YOU ALL FOR HELP ME OUT! ESPECIALLY LONERANGER!

Add some FUEL-DRY, while filling the tank up. Run the vehicle for ~15 minutes. You have water in your tank or worse, a possible leaky fuel line or joint.

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Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

So I have two new issues that didn't show up until I drove the car around long enough to notice. Thankfully they are small issues.

Rear defroster:
I'm pretty sure I wired it incorrectly. The viper system wont turn on the rear defroster or even by manual commands through my remote.

Parking Brake:
While driving, my parking brake light turns on at random times, so I'm assuming I need to place a diode somewhere on the line. I'm not sure where.

Here is a schematic of what I think the wiring should be...

Here are the manufacture schematics:
- Rear Defroster Diagram
- Parking Brake Diagram

check ur connection at the parking brake wire for any loose ends that may come into contact with the body of the vehicle, while the car is in motion, i don't think a diode will solve that probs, and what polarity was the rear defrost wire, you'll find it at the switch.