2007 toyota tacoma 2.7l remote start.

hey guys, since this is my first post, and i could not find a intro section, my name is Jason. I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma 2.7l single cab 4x4.






I am an active member at www.customtacos.com, but i am having trouble getting sound advice on my current project. a little christmas present to myself was an avital model 4113 remote start.



i am a mechanic by trade, so it's not the physical act of the installation that i am worried about. i would just like to ask a couple questions.

as far as i know, my vehicle is not equipped with a chip in the key. how can i verify that i do not need some sort of immobilizer relay?

the installation guide tells me to refer to www.directtechs.com, but i am not a registered dealer, so i am not allowed access. where can i find a guide telling me where the wires are for this? is there something on this site i can refer to?

i am sure all these questions have been asked before, and i did search, but all i found was information on the "up" model v6 tacoma. thank you in advance guys, i am looking foward to getting this installed, and also learning a thing or two!

The standard cab doesn't have an immobilizer so you are correct there. Wiring is the same for all models, look here

12 VOLTS	WHITE/ blue	Ignition switch harness	+
IGNITION	Blue / YELLOW	Ignition switch harness	+
IGNITION 2	BLACK/ red	Ignition switch harness	+
ACCESSORY	Runs with ignition wire
STARTER	BLACK/ white	Ignition switch harness	+
STARTER 2	GREEN/ black	Ignition switch harness	+
KEY SENSE	GREEN/ black	Ignition switch	-
TACH SIGNAL	BLACK/ white	At diagnostic plug below driver's side dash	AC
FUEL INJECTOR	Opposite from BLACK/ red	At any injector on engine	AC
LOCK	Violet	On white connector in driver's kickpanel	-
UNLOCK	GREEN/ black (double pulses)	On white connector in driver's kickpanel	-
DOORPIN	GREEN / WHITE	In 26-pin plug on module connected to fusebox under dash	-
FACTORY ARM	Arms with lock wire
FACTORY DISARM	Disarms with unlock wire
BRAKESWITCH	Blue	At switch above brake pedal	+
PARKLIGHTS	Green	In 13-pin plug on left of fuses on fusebox under dash	+
PARKLIGHTS (-)	Green	Light switch harness	-
HAND BRAKE	GREEN / WHITE	At switch on handbrake lever	-
HORN	GREEN/ red	In 13-pin plug at right of fuses on fusebox under dash	-
CLUTCH SWITCH	BLACK/ white	At switch on top of clutch pedal	TYPE 1
DRIVER WINDOW UP	Blue / YELLOW	At master window switch	REV POL
DRIVER WINDOW DOWN	Blue/green	At master window switch	REV POL
PASSENGER WINDOW UP	RED / black	At master window switch	REV POL
PASSENGER WINDOW DOWN	RED / green	At master window switch	REV POL
HEADLIGHTS	RED / blue or RED / green	At light switch harness	-
REVERSE LIGHTS	RED / black	In driver's kickpanel	+
DIMMER	WHITE/ green	At harness behind dimmer switch	+
VSS WIRE	GREEN/ orange	At ECM behind glovebox

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

To double-check that you don't have an immobilizer key:

1. Sit in vehicle, with engine off, ignition key removed.

2. Just below the radio, there's a panel with the clock, the passenger airbag light, and maybe some buttons to set the clock too.

3. Verify that there is NOT a flashing red light in that panel.

WIRING;

Use that chart for the wire colors, but you can usually find better locations for the wires, to make things easier.

Ignition wires: You don't even have to unfasten the cover from the steering column. Once you get the dash off, you'll see the heavy harness coming down, then going off to the left.

Brake and parking lights: Brake, and positive lights, are together in the left-most plug at the driver's fuse box.

Locks: After removing the driver's kick panel, it's not hard to figure out which wire bundle is coming in from the driver's door (Just reach into the doorjamb and wiggle the rubber boot, while watching inside.)

The driver's door harness has two separate bundles, taped together. Your lock wires are in the smaller of the two bundles, the one that does NOT contain the larger wires.

P.S. Factory Toyota remotes don't work with the car running. Even if you have factory keyless, it won't let you in when the remote starter is on.

Tach: Just below the fuses, in the OBDII mechanic's diagnostic plug. Apply the parking brake to get the pedal out of the way, snap out the plug, let it hang down, and you'll have just enough slack to work.

DISASSEMBLY:

1. Just below and to the right of the ignition key, depending on where your parking brake is......either snap out the change pocket, or pry off the little trim plate around the parking brake handle.

2. On driver's side floor, pry off "dead pedal" (footrest), unscrew little plastic "hand nut" behind.

3. Pry off driver's doorsill panel. It's brittle when cold; leave truck running with heater on before starting.

4. Remove driver's kick panel by sliding backward, going slowly so you can realize where it's clipped on to try not to break it.

5. Behind where that kick panel was, remove one 10mm bolt.

6. Going back to the right, below where the change pocket/emergency brake is, open that little "flap," undo one more 10mm bolt.

7. Pull entire dash panel backward, it'll come off. Undo all wiring plugs, and hood release cable.

8. You'll see a small black metal plate, partially blocking your ignition wires. Undo three 10mm bolts, remove black panel.

REMOTE START BRAIN LOCATION:

Seeing as it's only a remote starter, and not an alarm, I see no need to hide it.

Just to the left of the brake pedal assembly, there's a little room there. I would secure it to the brake pedal assembly with a few zip ties. Then, it's very easy to access in the future for any repairs. But make sure you put it in a way that it can't interfere with any of the pedals.

wow, that list of wires and their locations is just what i need! i guess i failed to mention that i have manual locks and windows, so i assume i will just cap those wires and not worry about them.

the following wires ask for 30 amps all positive
output to ignition circuit
output to starter circuit
output to accessory circuit
high current 12 input
high current 12v input

i assume that these are going to be found in the engine bay. can you guys shed any light on this?

all those wires are in the ignition column......match thos wires to the tech sheet that was posted above....if you look to the right of the wire colors on the tech sheet it will tell you the location of the wire....

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MECP Certified
I am the loudest and proudest member of the Fighting Aggies Class of '11 WHOOP!

SAW 'EM OFF!

since you put it that way this is all you would need

12 VOLTS	WHITE/ blue	Ignition switch harness	+
IGNITION	Blue / YELLOW	Ignition switch harness	+
IGNITION 2	BLACK/ red	Ignition switch harness	+
ACCESSORY	Runs with ignition wire
STARTER	BLACK/ white	Ignition switch harness	+
STARTER 2	GREEN/ black	Ignition switch harness	+
KEY SENSE	GREEN/ black	Ignition switch	-
TACH SIGNAL	BLACK/ white	At diagnostic plug below driver's side dash	AC

-------------
MECP Certified
I am the loudest and proudest member of the Fighting Aggies Class of '11 WHOOP!

SAW 'EM OFF!

and as for the wire i have marked for "light flash". should i tap into

PARKLIGHTS       Green       In 13-pin plug on left of fuses on fusebox under dash ?

oh yeah sry bout that...but yeah thats what you do...i dont think you would need the keysense either...

-------------
MECP Certified
I am the loudest and proudest member of the Fighting Aggies Class of '11 WHOOP!

SAW 'EM OFF!

jrod83 wrote:

---

since you put it that way this is all you would need

<TABLE id=ppp style="MARGIN-TOP: 5px" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%">
<T>
<TR>
<TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">12 VOLTS</TD>
<TD> WHITE/ blue</TD>
<TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD>
<TD align=middle> + </TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> IGNITION</TD>
<TD> Blue / YELLOW</TD>
<TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD>
<TD align=middle> + </TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> IGNITION 2</TD>
<TD> BLACK/ red</TD>
<TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD>
<TD align=middle> + </TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> ACCESSORY</TD>
<TD> Runs with ignition wire</TD>
<TD>   </TD>
<TD align=middle>  </TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> STARTER</TD>
<TD> BLACK/ white</TD>
<TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD>
<TD align=middle> + </TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> STARTER 2</TD>
<TD> GREEN/ black</TD>
<TD> Ignition switch harness  </TD>
<TD align=middle> + </TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> KEY SENSE</TD>
<TD> GREEN/ black</TD>
<TD> Ignition switch  </TD>
<TD align=middle> - </TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> TACH SIGNAL</TD>
<TD> BLACK/ white</TD>
<TD> At diagnostic plug below driver's side dash  </TD>
<TD align=middle> AC </TD></TR></T></TABLE>

---

ok this is good news, since this is only half of the wires listed.just to verify i will list the wires you are saying i don't need

factory alarm disarm
factory rearm
(+)ignition out(to alarm)
(-)activation input
(-)horn output
ground (i think i will need this, and i have some more questions about grounding)
status output
(-)accessory output
(-)starter output
(-)starter output
(+)brake switch shutdown wire
(-)neutral safety switch input
(-)hood pinswitch shutdown wire


this is just list of wires this thing has minus the ones you said i need.


i plan on grounding out a couple of the safety features. the neutral saftey switch input, and the hood pinswitch shutdown wire. can these go to the same ground that the black ground wire goes to, or should i find a different location.

i got into my ignition/steering column and i found a few wires that have the same colors. i took a picture, and it's a little bit larger then the recommended size, but you cant see what i am talking about with it any smaller



the wires to the left go up into my wiper stalk, but the are the same guage as the ones to the right, so i thought i would ask (they seem to be pretty heavy duty for wipers) also the little harness coming off the left side of the ignition switch has a white wire with a black stripe. is this my starter wire?

it could be possibly...stick the probe from your meter on it...if it reads 12v during crank only then youve got a winner...also your ignition needs to be a true ignition....it shouldnt drop below 9-10v while cranking...

-------------
MECP Certified
I am the loudest and proudest member of the Fighting Aggies Class of '11 WHOOP!

SAW 'EM OFF!

The plug that is behind the switch(where you have the two arrows pointing) is where you will find the Battery, igntion 1 and 2, accessory and both starter wires. You will need a relay for the second starter wire as your Rs only has a single starter output. Be careful unplugging that plug, if you pull on the switch it will come apart. As Chris stated, you can follow that harness down to the fusebox and tap in there.

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Yes, just like Mike said, that big plug where you have the red arrows is the plug for the ignition switch......and you'll see that a few inches further down is the best spot to cut open the black covering and make your connections.

Neutral safety switch of remote starter requites a ground to enable remote start.

Hoodpin switch input requires ABSCENCE of ground to enable remote start. (A ground on this wire indicates that the hood is open, and the remote starter won't operate.)

Your remote starter probably has some way to select its parking light output to be positive or negative.

I find it easiest to catch the positive light wire along with the brake, there at the fuse box. You could also find the negative wire inside the steering column, if desired.

In either case, be sure your remote starter is set up so its parking light output matches the connection you chose on the truck.

And, going by your picture, you definitely for sure do not have a transponder key. Your key cylinder is all metal, and doesn't have the receiver ring for the immobilizer key.

A couple things:

1. I did a write-up with pics of a similar truck a while ago. You could view it here if you're inclined.

2. As far as transponder immobilizers on the Tacoma, it seems to me that the V6 models have them standard and the 4 cylinders do not have them at all. I think Directechs said that when the current generation came out for '05. I can currently verify that I've done an '09 4-cylinder extended cab which had no transponder. (It was also a manual, of which fact neither I nor the shop owner gave any thought for about an hour, but I digress.)

3. You'll need a standard automotive SPDT relay for the 2nd starter wire. Wire as follows:
85: (-) 2nd start output from Avital.
86, 87: constant fused 12V(you can connect this to the 12V inputs to the brain between the brain and the fuseholder.
30: 2nd start wire on truck.

4. Parking lights are selectable (+) via a jumper on the side of the brain. Also as Chris Luongo mentions, there's a harness connected towards the bottom front of the fusebox which comes out and goes downward; this contains (+) parking lights and brake switch as well.


-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Just my personal opinion, I wouldn't ignore the safety features like you stated. Anytime I install a remote start, I ALWAYS use a pin switch/tilt switch or the toggle switch. You need to have at least 1 option to completely disable the remote start. Trust me! It doesn't take that much time and if for any reason something goes haywire, you can flip that toggle switch to disable the system.

chriswallace187 wrote:

---

A couple things:

1. I did a write-up with pics of a similar truck a while ago. You could view it here if you're inclined.

2. As far as transponder immobilizers on the Tacoma, it seems to me that the V6 models have them standard and the 4 cylinders do not have them at all. I think Directechs said that when the current generation came out for '05. I can currently verify that I've done an '09 4-cylinder extended cab which had no transponder. (It was also a manual, of which fact neither I nor the shop owner gave any thought for about an hour, but I digress.)

3. You'll need a standard automotive SPDT relay for the 2nd starter wire. Wire as follows:
85: (-) 2nd start output from Avital.
86, 87: constant fused 12V(you can connect this to the 12V inputs to the brain between the brain and the fuseholder.
30: 2nd start wire on truck.

4. Parking lights are selectable (+) via a jumper on the side of the brain. Also as Chris Luongo mentions, there's a harness connected towards the bottom front of the fusebox which comes out and goes downward; this contains (+) parking lights and brake switch as well.

---

can you go into more detail about this relay? i was looking at them on the radio shack website. i assume those numbers are the different pins on the relay. will they be stamped so i can tell which ones are which? you said on pins 86 and 87 i have to connect the same wire to them. is that what you meant?

can i edit a post? anyway, sorry for asking before i did a little research. i figured out the whole relay thing from the relay section on your site. i am still not 100 percent on why i need this though.

There are 2 starter wires in your truck and both must be powered up during cranking of the RS. Your RS only has one starter wire so you need to make another using the relay.

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

the way you explained to hook up that relay doesn't match the diagram on the site


is this right?

tacomajason wrote:

---

the way you explained to hook up that relay doesn't match the diagram on the site


is this right?

---

both ways are right because when the relay is engages it connects 30 and 87 together so it do not matter if you have 30 to 12volts or 87 to 12vols just make sure you hook this wire up and do NOT jump it with the 1st starter other wise your going to have some issues with the truck

As dtk1's said, it doesn't make much difference whether 30 or 87 goes to the 2nd starter wire. I personally prefer to always have my input 12V go to 87 because of the very slim chance that 87a may get shorted to ground and blow the fuse. (I don't know how much you've read about relays on this site, but 30 and 87a are connected when the coil doesn't have power, and 30 and 87 are connected when the coil does have power.)

Not a really big deal, I just think it's a little better.

-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

a couple of new questions. first, what wire goes from the remote start, to the key sense wire on my truck. second, the harness with the heavy gauge wires has two fused wires that the book says are both supposed to get 12v(+). can i wire these together to the same spot? why is there two?

For the keysense - blue (-) status output or pink (-) ignition output will work fine. Also you needn't bother with a keysense connection at all unless the truck has a factory alarm.

The reason for 2 separate constant power wires is the fact that many factory ignition switches, including yours, have 2 separate constant power wires. In your case I believe the WHITE/ blue is fused at 50A and there is another (I think WHITE/ green or WHITE/ red, test with a DMM to verify) which is fused at 30A. It'd be good to connect one of the red wires to each.

-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two