Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2002 silverado, alarm/remote start

I am trying to install an Omega AL-2000-EDP remote start/alarm in my son's 2002 Silverado.

The installation guide is a little vague on some things (I included a link below). Is the "starter interrupt (-) output" the same as "grounded while the remote start is active"?

On the door lock/unlock outputs, I think this truck uses Positive trigger wired at the BCM. The outputs from the remote start don't specify (-) or (+). I know some manufacturers use the same pair of wires, just reverse them depending on which polarity is needed, but not sure from this diagram.

I am also assuming the programmable relay output should be used for Ignition 2?

I intend to use an XK06 bypass module, any information on any of this would be appreciated.

AL-2000_EDP Wiring

""The installation guide is a little vague on some things (I included a link below). Is the "starter interrupt (-) output" the same as "grounded while the remote start is active"? ""

Nope, different. Starter interupt output is a ground out while armed.

""On the door lock/unlock outputs, I think this truck uses Positive trigger wired at the BCM. The outputs from the remote start don't specify (-) or (+). I know some manufacturers use the same pair of wires, just reverse them depending on which polarity is needed, but not sure from this diagram. ""

Some do reverse, some are strictly negative. You may need a set of relays to flip them positive...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks for your reply.

After reading the "user programmable features", it looks like the 3rd option for the starter interrupt is Alarm + Antigrind, so it should be grounded during remote start?

If I am reading their wiring diagram correctly, the on-board light relay and horn relay could be programmed to control the door locks.

It also looks like the "Remote start relay" is the programmable relay output and default setting is Ignition, so this would be wired to Ignition 2?

This remote start has 2 unlock outputs. Can this be wired to maintain the driver door priority unlock? If so, does anyone know how to wire this?

Do you installer guys usually setup the progammable features after installing in the vehicle, or do you power the remote start unit up on the bench and setup before installation?

i install and then program the options i need or want. did you figure out driver door priority unlocking yet?

OMEGA uses negative outputs for their door locks. you will have to use relays to convert the polarity to positive, or purchase OMEGA part number DLP-P4. it plugs right in to the door lock port on your unit and converts the outputs to positive without the need for relays or wiring anything extra.

posted_image

Actually I hadn't figured out the priority doorlock part, but I will look into that Omega part.

I did get info on the ground while running signal, it is the blue wire from the satellite relay port. I have used that signal before for the anti-grind relay, but I guess the starter interrupt output will accomplish that also if programmed for that option.

It seems like their (Omega) nomenclature is a little different than some of the other brands.

Thanks

Anyone know the wires to control the heated seats in this truck?

arhunter wrote:

Actually I hadn't figured out the priority doorlock part, but I will look into that Omega part.

I did get info on the ground while running signal, it is the blue wire from the satellite relay port. I have used that signal before for the anti-grind relay, but I guess the starter interrupt output will accomplish that also if programmed for that option.

It seems like their (Omega) nomenclature is a little different than some of the other brands.

Thanks

OMEGA is a little different, but not too bad. yes the starter kill will also control the anti-grind if its programmed to be on. the door lock part you are looking into buying will change it so you do not need relays for the locking or for the unlocking of the 3 passenger side doors, but you still need 1 relay for driver door priority unlock. the output for it is also changed to positive with that OMEGA part. below is a diagram of how to hook it up.

posted_image

Thanks for the info.

I was looking at the download section and came across an install guide for a 2002 Escalade, supposed to be the same as a C/K truck. Anyway, it shows a Light Green wire in the middle connector on the BCM that is the driver door only unlock(negative signal). If this is true, could you just wire the first unlock output (-) to this and used the second unlock output (+) from the DLP-P4 for the all unlock signals?

yes you can, as long as that wire is there at the BCM.

I intend to measure all these signals and make sure they are correct when I start the install. I have the electrical schematics for the 2003-2006 trucks but haven't found one yet for the 2002. I will attach the link to the 2003 schematic in case anyone could use it. There are a few other years on this site also.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/2004_BB/2003_Beyond_LD_Electric_CK.pdf

arhunter wrote:

Thanks for the info.
I was looking at the download section and came across an install guide for a 2002 Escalade, supposed to be the same as a C/K truck. Anyway, it shows a Light Green wire in the middle connector on the BCM that is the driver door only unlock(negative signal). If this is true, could you just wire the first unlock output (-) to this and used the second unlock output (+) from the DLP-P4 for the all unlock signals?

another thing you need to be aware of is that the DLP-P4 also changes the pink wire to POSITIVE. so you cannot just connect it to that wire at the BCM without changing the polarity back to negative with a relay. no matter how you look at it, your gonna need a relay. unless you just forget the driver door only unlocking altogether.

Yes, I thought about that. It looks like you might could interrupt the negative unlock output wire between the Remote Start door lock connector and the DLP-P4 and use that. The other 2 outputs would still be inverted to positive signals by the DLP-P4.

yes, you can also do that.

You seem very familiar with the Omega brand systems. You are saying use the Pink wire for the driver door unlock. The AL-2000_EDP drawing shows the Blue wire as Unlock #1 and the Pink wire as Unlock #2. The Omega tech rep I emailed said the first pulse turns on Unlock #1 (Blue) and the second pulse turns on Unlock #2 (Pink). Wouldn't the first pulse need to trigger the driver door unlock circuit and the second pulse trigger both doors? Or am I missing something?

no, you got it right. i just couldnt remember which way OMEGA did it, if it was blue or pink that was first. i used to install ALOT of OMEGA stuff, but i havent done any of that brand in ages. it looks like its gotten way better, it used to be pretty junky, thats why i quit using it way back when.

I appreciate your help, I just want to try to figure all this out before starting the install. Omega's installation guide is only 2 pages, and not very clear on some things. If you look at the owner's manual along with the install guide, it helps clear up some things. I'm not an installer, but I have installed a remote start on my 2005 Silverado and I have worked in the electronics field for 34 years.

Finally got all parts for this install together. They sent the XK06 bypass module with PKG7 Firmware. According to bypasskits website the PLXR firware is for the 2002 model truck. Since we are only using this for the Passlock bypass will the PKG7 firmware work?

I've always used a pldata or a gmbp on 98-02 trucks. Didn't have to deal with any pragramming or firmware issues. And as for thw wiring schematics for an 02, they are the same as 00, and 01, so any of those chevy or gmc diagrams should work for you. Aside from the doorlocks, doortriggers and the remote start bypass, everything should be pretty much the same as an 05. Just be sure to disarm the factory alarm upon remote starting and disarming the alarm. I beleive its a green wire in the drivers door harness/ kick panel. to rearm the factory alarm, you need to send a negative pulse to both the drivers doorpin and the lock wire at the same time. Just ude two diodes to split the lock output(before the DLP-P4) and have one doide go to the dlp4, and the other to the drivers door trigger wire. NOTE: this will also cause your domelight to turn on for about 30 seconds when you arm the alarm, which may bother some people. And if the truck wasn't equipped with a factory alarm, then you don't have to worry about all that disarming and rearming it. Easiest way to tell is if the instrument cluster blinks "SECURITY" after you shut off the engine and open a door. Press the power lock button with the door open to arm the alarm, that why you have to send a negative trigger to BOTH the lock wire and doorpin, to fool it into thinking the lock button is being pressed while the door is open.

I think I got the factory alarm disarm part, but still fuzzy on the re-arm part?

This remote start has a factory rearm output. What do I need to wire this to?

CutDog504 wrote:

I've always used a pldata or a gmbp on 98-02 trucks. Didn't have to deal with any pragramming or firmware issues. And as for thw wiring schematics for an 02, they are the same as 00, and 01, so any of those chevy or gmc diagrams should work for you. Aside from the doorlocks, doortriggers and the remote start bypass, everything should be pretty much the same as an 05. Just be sure to disarm the factory alarm upon remote starting and disarming the alarm. I beleive its a green wire in the drivers door harness/ kick panel. to rearm the factory alarm, you need to send a negative pulse to both the drivers doorpin and the lock wire at the same time. Just ude two diodes to split the lock output(before the DLP-P4) and have one doide go to the dlp4, and the other to the drivers door trigger wire. NOTE: this will also cause your domelight to turn on for about 30 seconds when you arm the alarm, which may bother some people. And if the truck wasn't equipped with a factory alarm, then you don't have to worry about all that disarming and rearming it. Easiest way to tell is if the instrument cluster blinks "SECURITY" after you shut off the engine and open a door. Press the power lock button with the door open to arm the alarm, that why you have to send a negative trigger to BOTH the lock wire and doorpin, to fool it into thinking the lock button is being pressed while the door is open.

So you are saying I need to wire the factory re-arm output (through diodes) to the driver door pin wire and to the driver lock output (negative input side of the DLP-P4 door lock module)?

arhunter wrote:

So you are saying I need to wire the factory re-arm output (through diodes) to the driver door pin wire and to the driver lock output (negative input side of the DLP-P4 door lock module)?

Thats exactly what you need to do. You hit the nail on the head, that will rearm the system correctly. Thats how I always do it, use a ream wire or lock wire and two diodes. Split the rearm wire with two diodes and connect to the lock(going to the DLP-P4) and door trigger wires. But make sure to connect past the diode you putin the door trigger wires(When you connect the two door triggers to the alarm, you need to isolate them with diodes) Connect the rearm wire between the BCM and where you tie in your door trigger diode or else the door trigger diode wont "see" it(because the door trigger diode will prevent backfeed). If I knew how to draw diagrams on here, I'd draw you one.

PS: You said "driver's lock output", correct? I've always just wired it to the regular lock wire(that locks all doors), I KNOW it works that way.

I think I got it now, just wanted to make sure I understood what you were telling me. It'll be a few days before I start the install, they sent the wrong bypass module.

Thanks for your help.

Where can I buy an Omega DLP-P4 door lock interface? I can't find one in stock anywhere.

Can anyone verify that the driver door unlock for this truck is Lt. Green wire, Brown plug at the BCM?

You may be confusing that with the factory alarm disarm wire. The disarm wire is a light green wire in the brown plug, not sure which pin though. The drivers door only unlock is a tan wire in the drivers door or drivers side fuse panel. You need a relay to tie into this wire because it goes straight to the lock actuator. This is where you'll find the driver's door lock wire. Heres a picture of where it plugs into the fuse panel. posted_image

Wire it up like this diagram below, but only use one relay, just on the tan unlock wire. It should already lock when you lock all the door, so you should't have to wire a relay into the gray (driver lock) wire. posted_image

Cut the tan unlock wire, and the "side going towards the door wire it as labeled "motor" in the diagram, the side goin into the fuse panel, wire is as the "switch" side as labeled in the diagram.

I found this in the download section. It is for a 2002 Escalade, but also says wiring is the same for C/K trucks. This guy says the Lt. Green is for driver door unlock. I will find out if it is or not when I do the install, just thought someone on here might know for sure. If not, I will use a relay like you have shown. Thanks.

2002 Escalade Install

Hmmmm, thats a new one to me. Try it.It also looks to be a different shade of green than the disarm wire, it looks more like a yellowish green then just light green. I also noticed that diagram shows for you to grab your tach wire under the hood at the the BCM. I know for a FACT that you can get it behind the instrument cluster. It's still a white wire where it plugs into the cluster. The instrument cluster comes right out by simply removing the 4 7mm screws that hold it in. Then unplug it and find the white wire in that harness.

CutDog504 wrote:

Hmmmm, thats a new one to me. Try it.It also looks to be a different shade of green than the disarm wire, it looks more like a yellowish green then just light green. I also noticed that diagram shows for you to grab your tach wire under the hood at the the BCM. I know for a FACT that you can get it behind the instrument cluster. It's still a white wire where it plugs into the cluster. The instrument cluster comes right out by simply removing the 4 7mm screws that hold it in. Then unplug it and find the white wire in that harness.

Yes, behind the instrument cluster,that is where I picked up the tach on my 2005. We are also instaling an in dash DVD in that truck, and I plan to tap into the tach wire while I have the front bezel removed.

If that wire is in fact the driver only unlock, I'll let you know.

I am trying to get a full wiring schematic on that year model. If I could just see the pinout for the BCM that would answer alot of questions. I have everything I need to do the install, just havn't had time.

Just do what you'e been doin, getting all your ducks in a row to make the install go as smooth as possible when you do get a chance to do it. Just keep compiling all the info you are gather from all the different sources so you know you have all the right connection points.
Also, if time is an issue, you may want to do it in stages. Like you said grabbing the tach wire one day, you could maybe wire in the dides for you doorpins and doorlocks another day, etc. Your locks and doorpins is going to be to most time consuming/aggravating/confusing part of the install. You very well may want to do that part first. Tie your doorpin wires together using diodes, and tie into your doorlocks and disarm/arm wires. You can test your connections on the locks and ar/disarm wires by grounding the wire that the alarm is supposed to send a negative pulse thru. You could also do all your work under the hood on another day. Mount the siren and hoodpin and route your wires thru the firewall and have them ready to connect to the alarm. Then when you go to install the alarm, all you do is connect all your ign wires, parking licghts, your prewired doorpin wire and lock wires, your prewired hoodpin and siren, your tach, brake wire, etc.
I did my brother's 95 suburban(my 1st big alarm install) like that in stages. Because it was so many bells and whistles, I had no chooice but to do it that way, or else work 12 hours straight. I did the remote start one day, all the window modules another day, found the tach and mounted the sirens (3 total) and hoodpin. Also did an add on pager unit. It took me about a week altogether. This was in 1997 before all the hybrid remote start/2way pager alarms even came out.At the time, that was pretty much the best you could get. It was a Viper 800 with an add on remote start module, 2 DEI 530t power window modules to control 4 windows, and an add on pager system.

There really is a lot involved in an install like this. I took a couple of days doing the remote start on my 05, but didn't have to worry with door lock wiring since I used the GMSL2 bypass. I'm no stranger to complicated electronics, but a project like this is time consuming. I made a nice spreadsheet with all the remote start connections, vehicle connections and bypass connections. When I am finished I will download it to this site. It might be of some use to someone in the future. Thanks for all your help.

With GM bypasses I usually prewire the bypass to the alarm brain. I tie in all the connections to the alarm wires that will also tie into the vehicle wire needed for the bypass( for instance, I tie the power and ground on the bypass to the power and ground on the brain) Then I leave the data wire hanging off and tie it into the purple data wire when I'm wiring the brain into the vehicle.

Do you mount the bypass right on the brain? I used a piece of velcro on my other one and stuck it right on the remote start module.

I'm going to take the GMSL2 out of my 05 and put in the 02 (Since I only need the Passlock bypass for the 02). I'm going to put a new INTSL in my 05. Supposedly the heated seat problem is fixed with the newer INTSL. Also, the data port should supply +12 and ground to the bypass through that connector even though the data part is not used (I think?). I think I will hook up the remote start brain on the bench and check this.

I've always only connected the bypass module data wire to the purple wire on the diagnostic plug, got all my other connections near the brain. I've zip tied the bypass the brain's harness usually. I also sometimes leave about 12 inches of slack in the wires(after wrapping them good in electric tape) and zip tie the bypass to something up inside the dash. That way, it looks more factory looking. I usually wrap all my harnesses in electric tape to kind od conceal them better.

Do I need to do anything with the dome light supervision or will the body control module take care of that when the door unlock is pulsed?

Connect it to the tan drivers doorpin. Actually just tie it into the factory rearm wire on the brain. Because You'll be connecting that rearm wire to the drivers doorpin wire. Remember the discussion about how to rearm the factory alarm? Split the rearm wire with two diodes(band sides of the diodes facing towards the alarm brain)and the wire going to the doorpin, tie it together with the domelight supervision wire then connect that to the tan drivers doorpin wire. Or else run both that rearm wire and the domelight supervision wire to wherever you tie into the tan doorpin wire, and connect both to that tan wire.

So you are saying connect the dome light supervision output to the factory alarm rearm output on the remote start unit (which will be connected through a diode to the driver door pin wire)? So the dome light supervision output will come on (and stay on a few seconds) when the unlock is pulsed and simulate the door pin switch being activated? On this unit the dome light supervision output is a programmable relay, should I diode isolate this output?

If the domelight wire is a relay, you don't have to diode isolate it. It just needs to be connected to the tan drivers doorpin wire (connect the input of the relay to negative). The rearm wire also needs to be conncted to the drivers doorpin wire as well. I was just saying you could just attach them both together to the tan doorpin wire. But dont attach them both together between where you split the rearm wire into two with two diodes and the brain. You could do it like this: Split the rearm wire with two diodes(band sides towards the brain), now the rearm wire is"Y" shaped. One side needs to go the the negative lock wire input on the DLP-P4, the other needs to be connected along with the domelight supervision wire to the tan doorpin wire(tie both the domelight wire AND the rearm wire to the tan doorpin wire). Am I confusing you now?

When I say "split the rearm wire with two diodes" I'm talkin about both the doorlock wire on the DLP-P4 and the tan doorpin wire need to be connected to that rearm wire, but they have to be isolated from each other with diodes.

CutDog504 wrote:

If the domelight wire is a relay, you don't have to diode isolate it. It just needs to be connected to the tan drivers doorpin wire (connect the input of the relay to negative). The rearm wire also needs to be conncted to the drivers doorpin wire as well. I was just saying you could just attach them both together to the tan doorpin wire. But dont attach them both together between where you split the rearm wire into two with two diodes and the brain. You could do it like this: Split the rearm wire with two diodes(band sides towards the brain), now the rearm wire is"Y" shaped. One side needs to go the the negative lock wire input on the DLP-P4, the other needs to be connected along with the domelight supervision wire to the tan doorpin wire(tie both the domelight wire AND the rearm wire to the tan doorpin wire). Am I confusing you now?

You are saying since the dome light supervision output is a relay output, just wire it to the tan door pin wire. So this connection to the tan door pin wire will have the anode end of one of the rearm wire diodes and the dome light supervision output. The other rearm diode anode goes to the door lock (-) output which is the input to the DLP-P4. Then both door pin wires connect through seperate diodes to the door trigger input to the brain. I've actually got all this drawn out in autocad like you are saying, but I can't attach that drawing on here.

Yep, YOU GOT IT! That pretty much sums it up. But you see how complicated all this is as compared to a module controlling everything like on your 05? Twice as much work. Plus a fistfull of diodes, lol.

CutDog504 wrote:

Yep, YOU GOT IT! That pretty much sums it up. But you see how complicated all this is as compared to a module controlling everything like on your 05? Twice as much work. Plus a fistfull of diodes, lol.

I think I need to go buy another sack full of diodes!

CutDog504 wrote:

Hmmmm, thats a new one to me. Try it.It also looks to be a different shade of green than the disarm wire, it looks more like a yellowish green then just light green. I also noticed that diagram shows for you to grab your tach wire under the hood at the the BCM. I know for a FACT that you can get it behind the instrument cluster. It's still a white wire where it plugs into the cluster. The instrument cluster comes right out by simply removing the 4 7mm screws that hold it in. Then unplug it and find the white wire in that harness.

Finally got to look at the wiring diagram for this truck. The light green wire (-) (Pin A4 BCM Blue Connector) pulls in the Driver Door Unlock Relay.

I'd try that wire then.

Got everything installed and everything seems to work except it won't initiate a remote start. The transmitter says there is a safety circuit problem, but I don't have the hood pin switch wire connected yet. Does the Neutral Safety Wire need to be connected to ground?

yes it does. just connect it to ground and it will solve your problem.

ckeeler wrote:

yes it does. just connect it to ground and it will solve your problem.

Yeah, I figured it needs to be connected. I just assumed that wire would only be for a manual transmission, I guess they have to idiot proof everything now. Thanks

man is that ever true!

Okay, got everything working. Only problem is the door chimes when you unlock the doors and the park lights come on. Anyway around this?

as i remember its an omega thing. im not sure sure if you can turn it off in the menu or not. they used to call it "parklight supervision" and all it does is turn on the parklights for 30 seconds when you disarm to give you a visual confirmation of the vehicle as you approach it on disarm. they will go off after 30 seconds.

ckeeler wrote:

as i remember its an omega thing. im not sure sure if you can turn it off in the menu or not. they used to call it "parklight supervision" and all it does is turn on the parklights for 30 seconds when you disarm to give you a visual confirmation of the vehicle as you approach it on disarm. they will go off after 30 seconds.

So as long as the remote start unit has the parking lights on, the door chime is going to be dinging? I was hoping there was some way around this.

they should only ding when you disarm. they shouldnt be dinging while they are on during remote start. once the truck is running, the dinging should stop. does it ding while they are on during remote start?

ckeeler wrote:

they should only ding when you disarm. they shouldnt be dinging while they are on during remote start. once the truck is running, the dinging should stop. does it ding while they are on during remote start?

No, just dings after unlock. You can turn off the 30 second park light in the programming like you said. I guess it's not a big problem.