2005 chevy trailblazer remote start prob

Hey guys I'm having a problem installing a remote starter in a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer and I'm not sure what is wrong. Here are the syptoms:

- when activating the remote start, the vehicle powers up, the accessories come on, the remote start unit clicks, but the starter will not engage

Here is what I have so far in the trouble shooting:
-The remote start does the same thing when the keys are in the ignition, and when the ingition is turned to the first click.
- The car will start with the keys and the brake pedal not depressed.
- I am using the yellow wire in the ignition bundle as the starter wire. When I have the keys in the ingition and turn to the setting just before engaging the starter, I can run a jumper wire from the battery to the yellow wire and the car will start. So I'm pretty sure I have the correct starter wire.
- Here's an interesting thing, when I activate the remote start - everything comes on (except the starter will not engage) - when everything is on if I use the jumper wire from the battery to the starter circuit the starter will still not engage.

Any ideas?

Thanks a million

smythro

You didn't mention what kind of remote starter you're using, and what you're using to interface with the car's Passlock system.

thanks for the reply, I am using a DEI basic remote starter (I think it's the 992) and a GMSL2 passlock bypass

It really does sound like a Passlock issue, but you do have the bypass module there, that's good.

I haven't used a GMSL2 before, but I've used Fortin's other products in other kinds of cars.

When that module programs to the car, its LED is supposed to respond in a certain way.......did you get that far? Did the module's LED confirm programming? That'll tell you if you got the right data wire in the car, as well as having ground and power hooked up to the module correctly.

Also, when you hit the remote start, the SL2's LED should be flashing, or at least coming on. Is that happening?

Does your aftermarket remote currently work to control the Trailblazer's doorlocks? If not, something must not be hooked up correctly.

Is your remote starter wired directly to the SL2, or are you using some type of data-to-data cable from the starter to the SL2?

Your truck has 2 ignition wires (Pink & White) and two accessory wires (Orange & Brown). Make sure that all these have 12 volts on them when required. Ignition wires must have 12 volts on them while cranking and accessory wires must drop out during crank. If you have any voltage on the accessory wires during the crank cycle, the vehicle won't try to start. Make sure that your ground is into a clean and paint free section of the body and not a steel brace in the dash.

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sparky

Thanks for the reply, I'm going back out to garage tonight to get answers to all the questions! I'll post replies tonight

ok, this thing is driving me crazy! here where I'm at with it.
The starter is DEI Hornet 569T, the BCM is a Fortin Passlock-SL2.
I'm still having the same issue, when I activate the remote starter the car will power up the acc will come on, but the starter will not engage. I've gone as far now as hooking up the tach wire and still have the problem. Here's something that may help, If I start the car, activate the starter and then remove the keys the car keeps running. It just won't try to crank the starter.
I've triple checked the grounds
The passlock bcm lights up when the starter activates, and blinks correctly during programming.
When the starter should attempt to start the vehicle, it does throw 12V to the starter circuit just for a moment, but never attempts to crank!

Man, I am stumped on this. Anyhelp would be appreciated.

With your test light or multimeter, activate the remote starter, and test all of the following:

1. Pink and white ignition wires both get power when remote start turns on, and REMAIN powered up while remote starter is trying to start the car.

2. Orange accessory wire gets power when remote start turns on, and DROPS power while remote starter is trying to start the car.

3. If brown accessory wire is hooked up, should be behaving the same as in #2. If brown isn't hooked up at all, that's OK too.

4. Yellow starter wire gets power during the time the remote starter is trying to start the car (during the time it should be cranking).

5. GMSL2 gets constant power on the red wire, constant ground on the black wire, and gets a ground on the blue wire at all times when the remote starter is turned on.

Also, Fortin products (I've used others, not the GMSL2) have two blue wires. Read the install guide carefully to make sure you're hooked up to the correct blue wire.

I'm un-familiar with the 569T and I can't find an installation manual. However, is it possible the PURPLE(starter-side) and GREEN(key-side) from the R/S are connected backwards?

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Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

Hey Chris,

It seems that the acc wires do not drop voltage like you suggest they should. Is there anyway I can test to see if this is the problem?

The accessory wires from the remote start MUST not have 12 volts on them during crank. On this truck if they do the starter motor won't engage. Check your wiring again to make sure that you haven't used the ignition outputs for acc and vice versa. It could be a programming or jumper setting too. This vehicle has 2 ignitions and 2 accessory circuits. How did you power up the additional circuit? Most remote starters only have one selectable output and require you to wire up an outboard relay to power anything else up. If you haven't wired up the additional relay correctly, it could be causing a feedback problem.

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sparky

smythro wrote:

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Hey Chris,

It seems that the acc wires do not drop voltage like you suggest they should. Is there anyway I can test to see if this is the problem?

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You do have some sort of circuit tester, right? Installers will argue all day about whether you should be using a multimeter, an LED probe, or an old-fashioned light-bult test light..........but keeping that argument aside, do you have any one of these three things?

You definitely want to have the ability to test wires on the car, even before hooking anything up to them.

So anyway, put your tester to the various wires in the car, observe how they operate correctly with the key.......then turn the key off, hit the remote starter, and see if they still are behaving the correct way.