06 escalade remote start

Ikillrinst wrote:

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2nd problem, when remote start shuts down manually or timed shutdown, it sets off alarm...

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which alarm, the OE? or the added one?

More likely the problem is the bypass, which is???????

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

the chime you are getting is becauuse the parking lights are being activated and the vehicle thinks that the lights are left on, and the horn honks because you didn't override the factory alarm.

ok so is this chime going off normal? how can i fix it? maybe a wire is not in the right spot? I dont like it.. never happened on my Tahoe.. and the alarm i believe is running the factory alarm also... with dome override on it works flawlessly except the chiming when i open drivers door is still there..  but with dome override off that is when the added alarm triggers the factory alarm... just need to know what i have to do... getting ready to take it out

You still haven't told us what bypass module you used.

What wires(s) in the car did you connect to for door trigger?

When you hit unlock on the remote, do the parking lights come on and stay on (maybe for 30 seconds)?

i didnt install it.. but i know it shouldnt be like this.. I know when i went back complaining they added a pulse timer, then they ran a wire directly from the door handle to somewhere... i wish i knew what bypass module they used but i do not know...  the Alarm is a Code Alarm CPL MMRS 4BTN. They told me you can't by it anywhere.

ok, i just looked through the installation manual and it shows it has a factory Alarm interface port..

They sell an alarm that you can't buy anwhere? Humm, I wonder how they bought it, then!

Anyway......

1. Does this alarm have a feature that keeps the parking lights on for maybe 30 seconds after you unlock the doors? That might be why you're hearing the chime.

If they can program that feature off, that would be good, since you already have something similar (GM's Permiter Lighting) from the factory, which turns on all the exterior locks when unlocking at night.

If they can't turn that feature off, and the chime is unacceptable to you, they could disconnect the alarm's parkng light output wire from the car's gray/black negative-trigger parking light wire (where it probably is now), and instead use the high-current positive-trigger wire that goes right to the light bulbs on the car......however, I did try to find that wire once and I wasn't able to.

2. Here's what's probably happening:

A. You remote start the car, then it times out.

B. After a few extra seconds, the output from the remote starter that triggers the bypass module times out.

C. When the bypass module times out, the domelight comes on, causing probably the aftermarket alarm to false.

Two possible solutions.

A. If it's a good-brand bypass module they're using, the module already gives a door-trigger output, unaffected by whether the domelight is on or not.

The bypass module's door trigger output catches the two front doors and the tailgate. The bypass module's door trigger output should be connected to the door trigger input on the aftermarket alarm.

If you're happy with just having the factory alarm protect the two rear doors, all is well.

If you want the aftermarket alarm to protect all doors, the two rear door trigger wires are available (I think) at the fuse box under the second-row seat.

B. If the bypass module for some reason doesn't have any door trigger output, the installer can still go under the back seat to catch the wires for the two rear doors, but he'll then have to run wires inside the two front doors and the tailgate.

The alarm is going off after remote start shutdown because they used the domelight wire as the door trigger input for the code alarm.

Using the individual switched wires for each door will solve that problem (also, some bypass modules will pick up the front doors which makes wiring a bit easier).

As far as the parking light chimes, you should just learn to live with them. Either that, or program the Code Alarm to not have extended parking lights with disarm (if in fact it's chiming for 30 seconds or so and not just if the door is opened immediately). Or you could also just have the lights disconnected altogether and not have visual confirmation of arm/disarm. What's happening to your car there is not a malfunction of any sort however.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

The bypass wire colors depend entirely on the brand and model of bypass that was used. It will most likely be under the dash and in close proximity to the Code Alarm control module.

You can probably disregard my comment about the bypass module being able to control the locks/OEM alarm/door trigger inputs. After re-reading the earlier posts in this thread it sounds like the shop used a bypass module that only does Passlock override and no other function.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two