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diy 1993 mazda miata alarm

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=111787
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 2:47 PM


Topic: diy 1993 mazda miata alarm

Posted By: etang789
Subject: diy 1993 mazda miata alarm
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 10:57 PM

I want to install a Viper 5701 with power locks on my 1993 Miata, the reason that Im not bringing to a professional is that there aren't any in Hong Kong! they dont even solder when they install headunits!

Items needed(Correct me if I missed something!)
1 x Viper 5701
1 x Directed 451M
2 x Universal Car Alarm Door Actuator
1 x Directed 508D Dual Zone Radar Sensor
I have been searching around for an alarm DIY for the NA Miata not much luck aside from some basic wire color codes. Is there a more detailed DIY out there?

Here are my findings so far!

Viper 5701 DIY install on EVO:
https://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-audio-security/364122-diy-viper-5701-install-ct9a.html#post6016781

Miata Wire diagrams:
https://www.madracki.com/miata/wiring.html

https://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1990-1998/Mazda/Miata/1039.html

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1363.html

Any suggestions guys?



Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 3:50 AM
If your's is the pop-up headlight version, I hope you've got about 2 months to make the locks work and stay working, the inner doors are a nightmare of lacking space, I mean NO ROOM to make actuators work properly, plus water ingress etc etc.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 3:53 AM
PS the other parts are correct,mount the 508d somewhere in the centre console, set it up then replace the console without screwing home and adjust till right. You will need trunk and hood switches.




Posted By: etang789
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 7:51 AM
howie ll wrote:

If your's is the pop-up headlight version, I hope you've got about 2 months to make the locks work and stay working, the inner doors are a nightmare of lacking space, I mean NO ROOM to make actuators work properly, plus water ingress etc etc.


Here is my findings about DIY installing door lock actuators on a older style Miata aka same as my 1993.

What do you think?




Posted By: etang789
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 7:56 AM
etang789 wrote:

howie ll wrote:

If your's is the pop-up headlight version, I hope you've got about 2 months to make the locks work and stay working, the inner doors are a nightmare of lacking space, I mean NO ROOM to make actuators work properly, plus water ingress etc etc.


Here is my findings about DIY installing door lock actuators on a older style Miata aka same as my 1993.

What do you think?


https://www.wolfmiata.com/tech/locking.htm

https://www.miata.net/hakuna/trunkpop.html




Posted By: etang789
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 7:57 AM
Where should I mount the DEI 451m? Do I need 1 or 2 DEI 451m?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 9:01 AM
The second post goes into it in much better detail, except check clearance between actuator and metal part at base of window glass at rear, that might be your problem. If you buy a motor kit it will probably have a timing relay, especially if either or both of the motors are 5 wire, if this is the case you won't need the 451, lock and unlock go straight to the neg triggers on the relay. If 2 wire motors, use the 451. Another point, if there are 2 x 5 wire motors, only connect the remaining 3 wires on the drivers side, otherwise unless you mount them absolutely spot on, the switches inside will make one work against the other!  It's far simpler to wire the drive side only.




Posted By: etang789
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 8:23 AM
So I found out there is a Neutral wire for the transmission as well!

Does that mean I can do remote start safely?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 22, 2009 at 8:41 AM
Test to make sure it goes to ground when you are in neutral with a manual transmission,  as soon as you move gearshift with the ignition on or engine running,  it should should stop going to ground.  If that's the case, then yes.




Posted By: etang789
Date Posted: March 02, 2009 at 1:28 AM
I will be getting 2 wire Door Actuators, so would I need 1 or 2 DEI 451m sorry your answer before wasnt clear.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 02, 2009 at 2:49 AM
1 and wire the actuators in parallel.




Posted By: etang789
Date Posted: March 02, 2009 at 3:27 AM
thanks for the quick reply!




Posted By: etang789
Date Posted: March 03, 2009 at 11:03 AM
Do I need to use diode isolate some wires like parking lights, door triggers ...etc?

I see some ppl do and some dont when installing this alarm!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 03, 2009 at 11:42 AM
Only on the white if you only have 1 white output light, if 2 don't bother, if one feed to 2 x 1N5404 diodes, bars away from alarm and go to the Haz switch, to left and right indicators, only US cars use lights and I'm assuming you have a Japanese spec R/hand drive.  If r/h/drive mount the unit behind glove box, go to interior light right hand side of door contacts, fit a trunk switch to underside of lid. fit a hood switch to flat section behind headlamp.





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