12 volt power leads for remote starter

I have a 2006 Ford Taurus I'm putting an alarm or remote starter on. The schematics for the Autopage RS-622 and Audiovox APS-787a show hookups for three (3) red 12 volt fused inputs. As far as I can see my vehicle only has one 12 volt wire to the ignition that has power all the time (Light GREEN/ Purple). Can I hook all three of these input wires to this one wire without overtaxing it as long as they are fused separatly?? If not where should I tap into for the second or third input wire??

If it's the only live wire going to the ign, then use assuming it isn't fused or if it is the rating is 80amps or more. The ignition switch is better than the battery for security reasons, battery is safest (fuse the leads at the battery side), alternate would be the heavy permanent power supply to the fusebox.

I'm not familiar with the vehicle but the colour seems wrong to me. I would have gone for red, also this lead should be at least as thick as the main ign and starter leads.

I'm pretty sure the Taurus has two constant power leads, although one of them isn't listed on the wiring sheet.

Anyway, whether it's one or two wires, that car is going to have a nice heavy constant-power wire, and it'll be fine for your remote start/alarm.

I checked some wiring diagrams at autozone.com and it looks like the light GREEN/ violet wire that is hot all the time for the ignition comes from the battery junction box and is tied to a 40 amp circuit breaker. So I guess I would be OK to tie three 12 volt leads into that. Plus those leads are all fused. The largest draw would be to start the car and it's either going to start with the key or the remote starter, but not both at the same time!! I can't believe the rest of the functions such as trunk pop, door lock/unlock, etc draw very much??

Howie, the light GREEN/ violet wire is the same thickness as the other ignition/starter wires.

Just trying to plan ahead how I'm going to wire it before I start! I'm sure I'll have a few more questions before I finish!

I must be honest in that I personally don't think a lead with 40 amp  fuse capacity is safe enough and would prefer to run to the battery. Having said that, what you've said is generally correct, assuming there is an ign 1 and an ign 2 on the car. If only one ign, think of the draw when starter is engagedc. Alternatively, I would look to the fuse box 12v input if it's accessable to split the load. Having gone round in circles I would also say that if you DEFINATELY have only 1 12v+ lead to the ignition, it's quite safe, if you have 2 split the load.

Just looked at Directwire, it agrees with you.

Yes there is an ignition 1 and 2 wire at the ignition switch. And let me make sure what you ended up saying!! I DO only have one "hot all the time" 12V lead at the ignition. Are you saying you feel I can safely run and tap off that wire for my remote start system?? Or I should find another source?? Not exactly clear what your last point was. I don't have a shop manual for my Taurus so finding wires under the dash that have a constant 12V isn't the easiest thing to do. I can use my voltmeter to test some wires, but I don't want to hook into a wire I'm not sure what it is used for. I could cause more problems! Does your DirectWire source show another wire I could use??

Sorry if I confused you but it's your car and you have to play safe.  Personally, I would run the heavy duty cables to the battery, fused at the battery end and run the alarm or other fused leads to that ignition 12V+ that you mentioned.  The point is that lead is rated at 40amps. That worries me but if it's the ONLY lead showing 12V+ all the time then you WILL be OK.  Directed mentions the same lead you mentioned but Chris Luongo mentioned another.  My experience suggests I would rather believe Chris than directwire so for your sake check,  if there is a second 12v+ lead at the ignition then as I said before  split your power between the two.

howie II,
Thanks for clearing that up for me!! I understand now what you were talking about. I can take the knee kick panel off below the steering column and have pretty good access to the ignition switch wiring. I can then test all the wires as they feed into the switch for 12V+ all the time. I can tell you there are a couple Light GREEN/ violet wires up there by the switch, but the "feed" wire splits off. I'll have to try and see where the split wires go but they are all in that general area. That could be what Chris was talking about when he mentioned more than one 12V+ hot wire. So I could in theory tap into a couple of the light GREEN/ violet wires but would in reality still be feeding off the same 40 amp circuit!

Took the kick panel off and tested all the wires on the ignition switch. There is one (1) light GREEN/ violet wire that splits off into four (4) light GREEN/ violet wires right before the switch. There is obviously 12V+ on all of those wires constantly, but that is the only color wire on the switch that has voltage all the time. Guess my wiring diagram was correct!