strange thing with nissan titan windows
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=112085
Printed Date: May 28, 2025 at 2:57 PM
Topic: strange thing with nissan titan windows
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Subject: strange thing with nissan titan windows
Date Posted: March 03, 2009 at 6:18 PM
ok, so i installed a viper 5900 into my friends Nissan Titan today. everything went fine, so i was playing around with the power window roll up feature that lets you roll the windows up and down by turning and holding the key in the door lock cylinder. so i figured out that i could just hold ground on the lock wire to make the windows roll up. so i hooked it up to the aux channel with a relay and it works fine when the windows are not down all the way but when you try to do it with the windows all of the way down nothing will happen, they budge a little bit and then go back down like something is stopping them. it is really weird to me because it works fine when i use the key, but when i simulate using the key i get nothing if the window is all the way down. does anyone know whats up? do i need a resistor inline or something
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Replies:
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: March 03, 2009 at 6:53 PM
I've never heard of them acting that way - you shouldn't need a resistor. Those windows have no way to know where their position is (they should only have an "up" limit switch). What happens if you lower the windows all the way down and then short the wire directly to ground (bypass the relay)? I've never tried to control the windows with a relay, just a straight ground. It's possible (although not likely) that the contacts in the relay are bouncing enough to trip the anti pinch circuitry. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 03, 2009 at 8:11 PM
well, i used the relay because im controlling it with the low current AUX, although it did work the same when i just had the AUX hooked straight to the lock circuit and im not sure if it would have worked when the windows are all the way down because i didn't notice the problem until i had it all wired up. i figured it might need a stronger ground so i put a relay in there but the same thing happened.
i found out that i could do this in the first place by shorting the lock wire to ground and i figure there should be no difference.
i guess it couldn't hurt to try a different relay, maybe its just a bad contact. none of this makes sense at all.
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Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: March 03, 2009 at 8:41 PM
You won't need the relay, it takes a very small amount of current to trigger the windows - no more then 120mA max from my experiance. I would guess it would be closer to 25mA or so, but I've never actually measured it. It is just an input to a controller in the drivers door switch.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 9:55 AM
i guess what i really need to figure out is, what does the doorlock cylinder do that my relay doesn't do to make the window roll up when it is all the way down. maybe a double pulse and then hold on the second pulse. i made sure to install this in an easy spot to get to so i guess i'll just play with it some more and see what i can figure out.
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Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 11:16 AM
The door cylinder has three wires on it - a ground, a lock, and an unlock. When you turn the key in one direction it connects either the lock or unlock directly to ground. That ground signal is sent to the processor in the door (the power window controller). The processor in the drivers door communicates through the BCM to a processor in the passenger door (this is all on a serial link). There are no double pulses or anything, those are only on Honda/Acuras! ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 3:32 PM
KPierson wrote:
The door cylinder has three wires on it - a ground, a lock, and an unlock. When you turn the key in one direction it connects either the lock or unlock directly to ground. That ground signal is sent to the processor in the door (the power window controller). The processor in the drivers door communicates through the BCM to a processor in the passenger door (this is all on a serial link).
There are no double pulses or anything, those are only on Honda/Acuras!
yeah, thats exactly how i would expect it to work but there must be something else because all evidence points to something different happening only when the windows are all the way down. maybe something in the lock cylinder is interfering electrically. maybe i will try to do something like a 5-wire to interrupt the connection to the lock cylinder itself. -------------
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 3:43 PM
No, there is nothing else to it. What year is the Titan? I can post pictures (or a link) to the service manual that shows the entire circuit. The only limit switch the system uses is fully closed. There must be something on your control side that is making it not work. Try going with just the (-) output and eliminate the relay. Also, try to just short it directly to ground and see what happens. I really think you will find that somehow the relay is messing things up. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 3:51 PM
its a 2004 nissan titan, extended cab, not 4 door. and i ADDED the relay because it had the same problem when i was just using the negative output
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Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 4:09 PM
I thought you said you didn't notice the problem when just using the (-) output, I must have misread what you were saying. Check out page 30 of the following PDF: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/titan/2004/gw.pdf That is the window system. Page 32 actually has the key cylinder on it showing you that it is just a ground connection Page 33 shows the actual antipinch junk. There is one limit switch that is closed when the window is fully closed and is open in any other position. The anti pinch system on these Nissans works by the window motor turning an encoder. The encoder then sends pulses back to a processor. The processor can measure the frequency (tach) of the encoder and then calculate how fast the window is moving. If the window is not moving fast enough the processor will stop the window and reverse its operation like the Titan is doing. For some reason it thinks it is hitting something, which is why I said maybe the relay was bouncing a bit causing it to rapidly start and stop the window motor. You may also want to try greasing the window tracks inside the door - that may help. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 04, 2009 at 4:38 PM
you might be right about the relay and ill definitely check it out but like i said, it did the same thing with it just connected directly to the alarm. im also going to check it if i just hold it straight to ground. IF it turns out that it works when i just hold it straight to ground, what would you suggest i do? is there a better type of relay that i can use?
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Posted By: chadwa2003
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 8:55 PM
Did you adjust the timed output on the alarm?
Or are you using the comfort closure feature?
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 07, 2009 at 11:08 PM
i am just using the aux output which activates after .8 seconds and will last until the aux button is released. so you just hold the ax button until the windows respond and then hold it until the windows are where you want them
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Posted By: chadwa2003
Date Posted: March 08, 2009 at 12:09 PM
What colour wire are you using off the 5900?
If you are using the RED / white which is normally controlled by the aux button it is just a pulse used for trunk release.
I would suggest just turning on the comfort closure feature and see if that works.
Did you try grounding the wire as stated earlier in the post?
It could just be that output on the starter is not set to validity and is just a pulse
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 11, 2009 at 8:44 PM
chadwa2003 wrote:
What colour wire are you using off the 5900?
If you are using the RED / white which is normally controlled by the aux button it is just a pulse used for trunk release.
yeah, im using the RED / white, and not, it is not just pulsed. it says in the manual exactly what i said before. it activates after about a second of input and will stay activated until you let go of the aux button. for the most part it works just like it is supposed to except when you start with the windows all the way down. if i start with the windows about a third of the way up, it works fine, if they are all the way down it will try to work by moving about an inch and then it will go back down like it thinks something is in the way. -------------
Posted By: robertsc
Date Posted: March 12, 2009 at 7:38 AM
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 12, 2009 at 12:10 PM
robertsc wrote:
sounds like the windows need to be programmed
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~112076~PN~3
no, they work fine using any of the factory switches. -------------
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: March 12, 2009 at 2:24 PM
Have you checked to make sure the windows work fine using the key in the door cylinder when the windows are down all the way? I would completely lower the windows and raise them using the key 10 times and see if there are any failures that way. Nissans are notorious for window problems - there may be something wrong with the system in general. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 13, 2009 at 3:25 PM
i actually did that test when i first noticed the problem thinking that i might have messed something up at the key cylinder, but its not anything like that. everything works perfectly when i use any of the factory switches including the key.
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Posted By: robertsc
Date Posted: March 13, 2009 at 4:12 PM
What about using relays and using the key cylinder ground as a reference.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 16, 2009 at 3:47 PM
i was thinking about doing that next time i see the truck. also its time for me to eat my word because i found out that it will do the same thing if i use the key in the cylinder so i might unhook what i did to see if that is causing some sort of interference. i might just try the real window module too if i cant figure anything out
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Posted By: one4waves
Date Posted: August 31, 2009 at 3:55 PM
I ran the channel 4 & 5 programmable outputs from my Hornet Alarm to the lock & unlock wires from the alarm to facilitate the express window up/down functions that work off the key cylinder. So to roll the windows down I would first press unlock/disarm, then immediately press Aux & unlock to roll the windows down. (vice versa for rollup). I found it to be fickle and not 100% all the time. There were times when I would press unlock, then aux/unlock and the windows wouldn't move. Then I'd press them again and the door lock actuators would bump but would not unlock, though the system disarmed and the LCD display showed the doors being unlocked. Then with the windows down and system unlocked/disarmed I pressed lock then aux/lock and the windows would go halfway, or not move at all, then after pressing unlock again, lo and behold they rollup. Then to really throw a wrench into the fire, I tried to roll the windows down while the system was armed and locked, and it worked!! Overall, probably 50% of the time it worked correctly (according to how it works with the key in the cylinder). I realize the factory system is sophisticated and even the repetetive rolling up and down of the windows (especially when the engine is not running) can heat up the motors requiring them to work harder and understandably draw more current and trip off the limit switch. I have come to the conclusion that there really is not much I can do about it. I won't be using this function that often, but it would be nice to know that when I'm not looking, it works. (there is no icon to tell you the windows are down or up unfortunately). I'd like to try your method with the RED / white wire directly to the window motor. How did you hook it up for both up and down operation?
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