Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 200ma when grounded?

you're too vague, what is grounded?, is it an alarm?, what type of system?,what colour wire from the system?, what is the wire supposed to do?, what are you trying to do?, help us help you.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I am assuming you are asking about the Ground out when ARMED.

When the alarm is armed there is ground on this wire. It is capable of only providing 200ma of current capacity. That is 2/10 of an amp. It is designed to provide ground to the starter kill relay or to trigger aftermarket LED arrays that indicate your alarm is armed (and it is no ordinary alarm).

yes it is an alarm/ remote start. im pretty sure the wire is white coming out of the module. ill have to double check. and i dont know what its meant to do becuase all it says for that wire is 200mA when grounded. so its pretty much just the ground side of a circuit of my choice for when the alarm is ARMED? as long as it doesnt draw more than 2/10 of an amp (relay or LED than)

thats all i was wondering if it provided a ground or need to be grounded for the alarm module to arm.

thanks

None of that makes too much sense.

1. What kind of alarm?

2. What's the exact text from the installation manual about this wire?

I'm a bit worried here because most US market alarms use a white as a pos/neg signalling (i.e. to lights) output. Follow and do what Chris says. Normally ORANGE is the armed output, i.e. goes to ground when alarm is switched on (armed).

my bad, i didnt have the manual next to me when i posted but now i do :). its a ungo sr6000.

it IS orange and it says...straight from the text... orange-ground when armed 200mA output

Well, there you go! posted_image

Now tell us what you might want to do and we will see how we can help.

well....nothing if i dont have to. my alarm already has a port for the led and a starter kill built in so i wont need it for that. i guess what i was asking is if THAT wire is optional? my truck is base model with manual everything and i only need to hook up the main alarm and remote start. i dont care for that fancy accessory optional stuff.

just making sure THAT wire isnt needed for operation of the alarm/rs.

thanks

No it is not not needed for operation of the alarm. As the manual states, the ORANGE wire is a "ground when armed (-)200mA ouput". That menas, it provides a (-)200mA GROUND when the alarm is armed.

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Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

Thank you all for the help. One last thing. Have any of you done a 05-06 Dakota? I can't find a good spot to go through the firewall....without taking the while fuse box out and it's a mess.

06dak287 wrote:

.. I can't find a good spot to go through the firewall ..

Why don't you create one, then use a proper bushing and seal it?

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Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.

because it's a new truck and i dont want to drill holes...just yet.

i ended up popping through the shift cable grommet.

You couldn't find a grommet? Driling is an absolute worst case scenario. I use curtain rod, (wire cable enclosed in a white plastic sheath) with WD-40 or a cabinet 18" screwdriver with the end rounded off (not pointy) to get through existing wiring grommetts then RTVC or similar to seal off.

The Orange (ground when armed output) will provide ground to any device you use to activate once you arm the system. IE Tilt sensor, prox sensor, starter kill relay, or a additional LED scanner light. DEI devices are all color coded the same. IE there is a orange wire on the tilt sensor harness.. hope this clears it up for ya

yes everyone's help really cleared that up for me. I got the alarm portion all hooked up just haven't started on the remote start portion yet. a few more questions though (didn't want to start a new thread)
when i unarm the system (ungo sr6000), it chirps 4 instead of the usual 2. the first few times i armed and un-armed it chirped twice. now EVERY TIME it chirps 4 times and when im driving down the road the LED is blinking 2 times than pause then 3 times. and my pager is blinking the door symbol and a hammer on top of the window symbol??
it seems the dome and door triggers are working fine so i dont know what this all means. thanks again and sorry for all the questions.

It sounds like you don't have your 12v ignition wire hooked up yet to the alarm harness. This circuit acts as a reset to the alarm system as well as ignition controlled doorlocks, shutting down domelight etc. Once you have tripped the alarm.. it will always chirp 4 times to let you know it was activated until you reset the system when putting car in crank/run position. . The 12v ignition wire on your Dakota is Dark blue on the ignition harness. You might want to double check your door circuit. Your door triggers are (-). This have separate wires for all the doors on your truck.. but you can use your domelight supervision wire which is yellow (kick panel) to trigger alarm if any of the doors are opened. This eliminates wiring all circuits and having to use diodes. Sounds like your remote tells you what triggered the alarm until you reset the system. You can always disconnect the power to reset it if you have to till you connect the 12v ign wire. Hope this helps.

yea thats kinda what i was thinking too. but the alarm module doesnt have the ign. wire....it runs through the remote start module THEN to the alarm module so i guess ill have to put up with it until i get the RS portion installed. your correct, i used my domelight circuit as the door trigger. that all works as it should...open the door alarm goes off. and light flash works fine. but i also cant do the default menu settings. where you can change stuff, because that requires the IGN wire to be hooked up as well. so NOT having remote start hooked up YET, limits my use more than i thought lol. alright well ill have to get on that. thanks alot.

one more thing lol sorry. on the main harness for the alarm module. there is a WHITE/ blue wire. that says remote start (-) activation input. the picture shows what looks like a valet switch or hood switch but both of those are hooked up already. it talks about using ground pulses for the remote start. what does that wire have to be hooked up too?

I am currently looking at the install manual for this alarm. You have a +yellow ignition input to alarm wire on the "remote start ribbon harness" This is the wire that will connect to your 12v ignition wire. I think I said it was dark blue. I'll see if I can figure out your other question on the Main harness H1/3 white-blue wire.

White blue isn't used, it's only used when you have an on board "other brand " r/s that you need to control through your alarm's remote, I believe you can also configure it as aux 2 but don't quote me.

Rather than hacking into the ribbon harness for ignition, it'd be easier to just connect the remote start wiring.

Also that WHITE/ blue auxiliary start input could be used (like Howie mentioned) if you wanted to have a momentary switch or other control module(maybe a GPS tracker or some other kind of telematic unit) activate the remote start. Since you haven't mentioned those you probably needn't worry about the wire at all.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

yea. i am going to hook up the remote start. just didnt get around to it yet. but i have the alarm portion hooked up. im not going to hack the ribbon. just noticed the only way to get the ign wire hooked up to the alarm module was through the remote start. ill get to that this weekend and let you guys know how it went. hooking the rest of it up should solve my 4 chirp unarm and led flash while unarmed too.

thanks guys for all the help.

If you can.. de pin the yellow wire from the remote start ribbon harness and it should plug into the main alarm harness H1 into Pin port 9. There should be an empty plug. If you decide to skip the remote start..this would be my recomm. While remote starts are nice.. the many wires used and that attach to the ignition harness gives a pro thief a path back to your alarm brain. From there it can be yanked or snipped quickly. Just my thoughts.

yea but i already have it and mostly hooked up. and it would be nice to have one for cold mornings. i understand where your coming from though. the chances of someone even attempting to break into my truck is likely where i live, but you never know. i do my best to wrap up the wires and hide everything.

If the brain itself is sufficiently inaccessible, and the main power supply fuse(the one that doesn't go to the remote start relays, but directly to the brain) is well hidden, you needn't worry about the security being compromised.

Also, this is a really good justification for the 2-way remote.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Sounds good. I actually plan to re do the starter kill connections on my ignition harness because they look kinda obvious from the original place that installed it. I am gonna get some heavy duty electrical tape and wrap it around the length of the ignition harness.. then put a good wire loom over it so it looks as factory as possible. If a thief wants to hot wire my car.. they will have a few layers to work through and hopefully they won't bother.

thats what i was thinking too. my alarm is wrapped pretty darn factory right now so ill have to keep it up when i get around to the remote start. and if they get into the truck by the time they crawl under the dash and start cutting ill be outside with a...."device" to the back of their head. ;)

Hotwiring is actually not a threat at all, unless the car was made prior to 1969. Cars since then have had a required steering column lock which needs defeated in order to actually drive them, and once that's done manually operating the ignition switch is child's play.

The starter kill is ostensibly supposed to make the theft harder at that point in the attempt by interrupting the electrical circuit.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two