2008 civic alarm issue
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=112616
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 8:31 AM
Topic: 2008 civic alarm issue
Posted By: rtl402
Subject: 2008 civic alarm issue
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 7:52 AM
I have completed an installation of an avital 4100 R/S in my brothers 2008 civic. However, the factory alarm continues to go off everytime he starts the car. I double checked the wires 3 times. The factory arm/disarm is connected properly so I have no idea what else to try with this, short of cutting the factory arm wire and installing an inline switch to turn it on when taking it into the dealer for service. Any thoughts?
Replies:
Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 8:21 AM
what color wire did you connect your FAD wire too ?? should be Brown Neg pulse in the DKP tests using the key in the door cyl and turning to unlock
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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 9:08 AM
Double checked the wires three times how?
Visually, or testing with your test light or meter?
1. Test the wire on the car to make sure it really tests as ground when turning the key in the driver's door.
2. Test the factory-disarm output from the 4100 to make sure it really puts out a momentary ground when you activate the remote starter.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 9:57 AM
Wasn't there some issue the last time this came up that the R/S factory alarm disable wasn't putting out enough current and thus had to be relay boosted?
Posted By: Thack79
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 11:52 AM
I didnt have this problem with a python 1400. Just had to figure out it was the smallest wire in the harness (smallest ive ever seen actually).
Posted By: rtl402
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 12:33 PM
Tested the wire with my multimeter, yes i tested using the key in the driver door lock cylinder. 12volts at rest, turn key drops to 0 volts. I also checked the unit to see that it is functioning properly, it was. I even tried swapping a different brain in just in case, same issue.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 2:13 PM
Have you tried manunally disarming the factory alarm, with the factory dis-arm wire? Try to reproduce the event, by manually momentarilly grounding the factory dis-arm wire and then R/S. If it succeeds, then the issue lies with your R/S unit not providing enough current or no current, to the factory dis-arm wire. If it fails, then you need to look else where.
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Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.
Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 2:22 PM
rtl402 wrote:
Tested the wire with my multimeter, yes i tested using the key in the driver door lock cylinder. 12volts at rest, turn key drops to 0 volts. I also checked the unit to see that it is functioning properly, it was. I even tried swapping a different brain in just in case, same issue.
12Volts at rest? You should be looking for (-)Ground in the unlock position.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 2:42 PM
Mark Mizenko wrote:
12Volts at rest? You should be looking for (-)Ground in the unlock position.
- +12v at rest is correct.
- He is showing GROUND in the unlock position.
------------- Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: March 24, 2009 at 11:39 PM
chev104275 wrote:
what color wire did you connect your FAD wire too ?? should be Brown Neg pulse in the DKP tests using the key in the door cyl and turning to unlock
I second this question! What wire DID you connect to? Should be a brown in the harness from the door (behind the fusebox) where the lock/unlock are located. -------------
Posted By: Thack79
Date Posted: March 25, 2009 at 8:27 AM
its either the wrong wire or he got the disarm/arm reversed and its arming during remote start.
Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: March 25, 2009 at 10:17 AM
loneranger wrote:
Mark Mizenko wrote:
12Volts at rest? You should be looking for (-)Ground in the unlock position.
- +12v at rest is correct.
- He is showing GROUND in the unlock position.
I'm just wondering how he has his meter hooked up, and what it's set at? If he's looking for a ground with unlock, what does "0" mean in the unlock position?
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: March 27, 2009 at 12:10 AM
- His meter is set for DC voltage.
- His probes are to the wire and GROUND.
- He is showing +12V on the wire at rest.
- He is showing GROUND (0V) on the wire or a de-activated circuit , while the cylinder is in unlock operation.
------------- Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.
Posted By: rtl402
Date Posted: March 30, 2009 at 7:22 AM
Sorry for the delayed response. I was moving.
It is the brown wire coming from the driver door located behind the fuse box. Multimeter is set for DC voltage, I get 12V at rest, no voltage or ground whatever you want to call it, when the key is turned in the driver door cylinder to unlock.
I can disable the factory alarm by unlocking with the factory keypad, but the range sucks and I can't unlock the car from my front door, to remote start, and then relock the doors. R/S keypad has great distance, but doesnt help by waking the whole house from the factory alarm.
Can I permanently ground the factory arm wire so it doesnt arm again? And obviously I can put in a switch to disable this when taking the car for service.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: April 01, 2009 at 3:53 PM
loneranger wrote:
Have you tried manunally disarming the factory alarm, with the factory dis-arm wire? Try to reproduce the event, by manually momentarilly grounding the factory dis-arm wire and then R/S. If it succeeds, then the issue lies with your R/S unit not providing enough current or no current, to the factory dis-arm wire. If it fails, then you need to look else where.
Have you tried this experiment yet? Most likely, it will solve your diagnostics and may prove you need a relay, to provide more current to GROUND than your R/S module is capable of. howie II was probably correct and this will prove it. ------------- Ideal - cmon dude, add to topics in a useful manner, not stuff that is obvious.
Story - Phzzzt! Hey, what happened?! ... Isn't it obvious?
Moral - Never dismiss the obvious.
Posted By: rtl402
Date Posted: April 03, 2009 at 10:51 AM
It was a pain in the butt to do this (me not being the smallest person around) but I tried running the ground to the factory disarm, hitting the RS, and still got the horn to go nuts. I spoke to honda yesterday, they said the wire I am using (confirmed by 2 techs) was the proper wire. They dont know why this is happening
Posted By: nstaller36695
Date Posted: April 04, 2009 at 1:35 AM
sounds like you need a data interface. and will the remote start actually start ? i didnt read whether or not it actually cranked the vehicle. most of the new interfaces shutdown the factory alarm AND allow for remote starting, ummm if this doesnt work it maybe possible you didnt ground your wire good enough before touching the fad wire. (lord knows i've fought my share of battles with ungrounded meters and test lights)
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the best part of a job is seeing the bumper get smaller over the horizon
Posted By: rtl402
Date Posted: April 09, 2009 at 12:21 PM
Yep, remote start works fine. I took the car to the dealer to check out the issue. They said there could be a factory issue with the standard 'security' system. The tech was actually pretty intelligent and said there have been some issues lately with this. He suggested putting an inline switch on the factory arm wire to keep it from arming when not in for service.
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