2004 v4 camry, viper 791xv

Hi all,
I have a 2004 V4 Camry. I had the viper installed for about 1 month ago. Everything was fine until today. When I was trying to install a window rolling module, I accidentally unplug (the car battery is still connected) a harness on the satellite relay module. You can see in the picture, the harness that I circled

I tried to plug it back in but it does not work. Every time I try to plug it in, the starter start cranking and staring the car.AFter the car has started, I still hear some strange sound coming from the engine compartment. I think maybe the starter making that sound. If I unplug harness, the engine die immediately.
Anybody have any ideal about what should I do to get it working again?
Thank you so much for your time.

That should have no affect at all. If there were relays connected to anyone of those wires, did they put a diode inline? Diodes are an absolute must. If the purple wire in that connector sees a ground feedback, then it'll crank the engine.

Also, something else to check, I think that you must have slightly unplugged the 12-pin connector on the main module by accident or moved it so that the module doesn't see ground.

Re-insert the 12-pin correctly before connecting the 4-pin harness.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Small point, remove the unit's power fuses, reconnect and then re-insert the fuses.

Howies on the same path as myself. Vipers, like most units, need to see ground before all other wires.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Big Dog you're so right, years ago I was taught to ALWAYS conect ground first also an an anti-static measure,  some makes won't even work properly unless the ground is connected (and properly even to scraping down to bare metal) first.

Problem solved my friends. The main plug is a little bit loose. Thanks so much.

Big Dog wrote:

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I think that you must have slightly unplugged the 12-pin connector on the main module by accident or moved it so that the module doesn't see ground.

Re-insert the 12-pin correctly before connecting the 4-pin harness.

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I love it when I'm right.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Hi there, right now Im trying to put the window module into my 04 camry. I bought the asianwolf module. Here is its manual: https://wolfcominnovations.com/images/vs/acc/pw400/pw400wiringdiagram.jpg
According to the manual, I have to find the wires that roll up (or down) for each window. For example, I found out that the GREEN/ YELLOW in this picture is the roll up cable for the rear-left window. But the thing is I dont know where to cut the cable so that I can separate one switch side and one motor side. I did cut that wire right next to the blue plug into half. Then I measure continuity between the 2 half of that wire and the multimeter says they are still connect together. How can that happen? Are they still connect together at somewhere else? I was thinking about cutting right at the switch but then I have to route the wire from the module all the way to the switch. Is there any way we can do that. I try to avoid open the whole door panel to look at the cable(I just dont want to break anymore clips)


Right now, I can control 4 windows using the driver switch. Will this feature still working after I put the module in?
For the driver window only, right now I can either manually roll down the window or push the switch deeper for the one-touch full travel something to make the window roll down automatically. I heard that we have to wire something more so that we can have this feature working with the new module. Is that true

Big Dog.. would you happen to know where I can get a wire diagram for an 2002 Lancer to hook up a DEI 530T? thanks

baby007 wrote:

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Hi there, right now Im trying to put the window module into my 04 camry.
According to the manual, I have to find the wires that roll up (or down) for each window.

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you can also find all but the driver's door down there. (maybe even the drivers)

from AUDIOVOX:

          LF Window Up          GREEN          (REV)          INSIDE DRIVER'S DOOR          
     LF Window Dn          RED          (REV)          INSIDE DRIVER'S DOOR          
     RF Window Up          GREEN / WHITE          (REV)          INSIDE DRIVER'S DOOR          
     RF Window Dn          RED / BLUE          (REV)          INSIDE DRIVER'S DOOR          
     LR Window Up          GREEN/ YELLOW          (REV)          INSIDE DRIVER'S DOOR          
     LR Window Dn          RED / YELLOW          (REV)          INSIDE DRIVER'S DOOR          
     RR Window Up          GREEN/ BLACK          (REV)          INSIDE DRIVER'S DOOR          
     RR Window Dn          RED / BLACK          (REV)          INSIDE DRIVER'S DOOR

jcs091570 wrote:

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Big Dog.. would you happen to know where I can get a wire diagram for an 2002 Lancer to hook up a DEI 530T? thanks

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next time start your own thread

IN DRIVERS DOOR
     
Window Up          -           D\ RED / BLACK P\ BLUE/WHITE D\ WHITE P\ BLUE/BLACK           

Window Down     -      F/ GREEN/ BLACK F/ BLACK/ WHITE R/ BLUE R/ GREEN/ YELLOW

Thank you. that is why I am a rookie.

So according to your wiring, another-kelly, if I want to place the module in the driver kick panel I will have to extend the wire of the module thru the gromet to the master switch in the driver door?

Anyone have any ideal about the rest of my previous question?
Thanks

If I read this right.. drivers side window up is RED / blk and passenger is blue/wht. Drivers side down is grn/blk and passenger is blk/wht.  Thanks for you help

I'm confused what questions are we trying to answer here?  The Camry...how to test for windows.  First someone's given you the colours.  Take a DMM, set to 20vdc,  take the black probe to ground,  and the red to the suspect wire.  It will show 12v+ on window up only.   If you then cut this wire, and try again with the DMM in place,  the switch side will give you 12v+, the motor side will stay at ground.  You were testing it wrong. Don't use continuity, you were going back through the motor.  At rest on a conventionally switched window system, what DEI  call type "A", both sides will rest on ground, hence the continuity. The second point, does this window closer give you close or "one touch up" and down?  If it's the second case I would strongly advise taking the 4 wires to each motor individually as the manufacturer probably suggests. If not I would mount the modules in the car and bring the the two drivers wires into the door,  picking up the other wires in the driver's kickwell,  thus removing fear of damp which could happen in the door. Another sound reason is that some Japanese manufacturers use data on many models thus when not sure, I always pull the master switch and test or have a lok at the cables, if you have 6 thick cables going to the other three doors you're OK, if thin or too few it's data and you wil have to go to each door. The Lancer, if you have a feature whereby power is retained on the switch panel giving you one touch close for 1 minute after removing the ignition key, your system is definately data and go to each motor.

Thanks howie II and everyone. Get the module works finally. Have to take out the whole driver door panel and route the wires to the switch. But seem another problem happened. Right now, every time I turn the key to the ACC position or On position, I hear a zzzz noise coming out from the bottom of the center console. When I open the hood, I can hear it from the center area of the firewall. If I turn the key to Off, its gone. Any ideal?

One more question: I know there is a variable resistor to adjust the current to the motor but is there any chance that this cheap module will get the window motors burned? Should I get the DEI 530? I know the 530 is good but its kind of overpriced for me.