Hornet 700T Disarm Defeat Wire

I've installed plenty of that type of alarm (although not the Hornet), and they work great, are simple to use, and are reliable. Here's basically how the system arms and disarms itself:

Okay, you've got two wires going to the power door lock actuator in the door. They both rest at ground. When you lock the doors, one of these wires turns into a positive to move the lock actuator-----when you unlock the doors, it's the other wire that turns to a positive.

So the alarm taps into both of these wires, and "watches" them. When you lock your doors, it sees the positive trigger on one of the wires, and arms the alarm........ when it sees the unlock trigger, it disarms. Pretty simple, but there's one catch.

A car theif might break into your car, but then hit the "power unlock" button on the door to admit an accomplice from the other side of the car......this would disarm your alarm too! This is where the "disarm defeat" deal comes into play.

Not sure about the UK, but most US cars work like this: When the user presses "unlock" on his keyless transmitter, only the driver's door unlocks. If he presses the button a second time, all the other doors unlock too.

So, the "disarm defeat" wire ties into the unlock wire of the actuator at one of the passenger doors.........

if ONLY the driver's door is unlocked (by the keyless remote), the alarm will disarm.....if ALL the doors unlock at the same time, the alarm realizes this is wrong, and sets the siren off.

If your car opens all the doors on the first press of the keyless remote, there may be some options in the Hornet's programming menu that will still give you some measure of security. I have a 700T manual around that I could probably look at if you needed me to.

I'm looking at the 700T manual right now.

-When you program the unit, it "learns" the rest state of the locks, be it negative or positive---so if your locks rest and positive but switch to negative while operating, that will be okay.

-If all the doors unlock on a single press of the remote, they include a diagram, involving diodes, to prevent the alarm from "seeing" the functions of the door-mounted lock switch.

-You also said you want to prevent disarming while turning the key in the door? Well, that'll probably depend on the car----many European cars also electrically lock/unlock the doors when you turn the key----this may make it difficult to do what you ask.

Of course, anything's always possible, but the extra labor involved might make it impractical or too expensive for most customers.

Also, you'd have to look into how that particular car is usually broken into--- if the theives typically reach inside the car with a tool and unlock the doors, this won't disarm your alarm---but if the pop apart the key cylinder on the outside of the door to break in, this may get it to disarm as well.

But in the end, I'd say for you to order a couple of these, and start by using them on friends' cars, or customers who aren't too fussy about ultimate security. Then you should be able to get a better idea of what you can and can't do.

Also, you might want to know a couple other things about the 700T:

The shock sensor is built into the brain, which basically means that you can either mount it someplace that isn't very secure, for easy adjustment---or tear half the car apart every time the customer comes back to have it changed----or you can buy an outboard DEI shock sensor, which will plug right into a port on the brain.

The 700T does not include a starter kill relay; you'll have to buy those separately.

At work, I use the Audiovox Pursuit PRO9232S. It comes with an outboard shock sensor, a starter kill relay, plus all the features of the 700T.