what type of oem lock used in ford focus?

Bulldogs wire diagram says it is a type B

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Thanks, Kim

uh.. sorry for stupid question - but what is type B?

negitve type


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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

whats the brand of alarm r/s ??   if you could post copy of the install manual for the locks

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

It's quicker to go to the GEM box, on a Mk l/1a Focus.   2005 onwards the fuse box and GEM unit are combined, trunk release is a low current neg BLACK / YELLOW at the switch.  Door contacts can be found in the floor looms, and in some cases at the GEM box but by the time you a)test them out and b) discover that same colour wires are used for multiple functions, it's easier to go straight to the switches in the door shuts . Example on R/hand drives the trunk contact is BLACK/ blue at left hand floor loom but by the kickpanel it becomes yellow/black.  Do you have 6 wire or 2 wire on your alarm which is?i.e. what make is it?

ok, but the door triggers are put in rubber and it doesn't look like it would be easy to dismount then to connect a wire directly.. I don't want to brake a trigger. I have a 6 wires in alarms for door lock.

Don't be stupid, you pull the inner B (and C if 5 door) to get at them.  Very easy.

 hm... I'm not stupid, but this question might sound quite stupid to you :) what is inner B and inner C in a human language? :)

OK, the A pilar (or post) is between the windscreen and front door, the B is between front and rear doors and C after rear doors, D between rear 1/4 and back window, sorry these are body shop or manufacturers terms but most installers understand, e.g. dkp = driver's kick panel which is the lower internal section between the front of the front door and the engine bay bulkhead wheel arch. Just slightly prise out the trims behind (inside), that will give you access, the stupid referennce was that it's much easier to do as I suggest than try and remove the lock striker. The problem with that vehicle is that there are a lot of wires with different functions having the same colours, think Peugeot/Citroen. Most of the door contacts are BLACK/ blue but I wouldn't bet on that without testing, as a complication, the power trunk release is BLACK / YELLOW at the switch but  on some models is the trunk trigger!  Test everything.

I've connected all wires, doors, trunk and hood triggers, also trunk release, but can't find door lock wires :( should be BLACK/ red and black yelow, but there's no such wires.. do you know how to detect the right ones? what I should see on these wires on multimeter when locked and unlocked?

Look at my first post they are the colours, if you can't listen to what you've been told what's the point of helping you?

Actually you have the US colours, European colours are ORANGE / black or BLACK/ orange for lock and GREEN/ black or BLACK/ green for unlock. Set your meter to 200 ohms setting or contnuity test, connect black probe to ground and red to each pin in the 2 right hand connectors on the gem box. Throw the latch on the door you have open and shut all the other doors.

 Actually I've read all your mesages for a few times :) It's just in many wiring diagrams BLACK/ red and BLACK / YELLOW wires are shown for lock/unlock and it was confusing, because I couldn't find any of these. And as for BLACK/ orange and BLACK/ green, I've found at least a few, that's why I was asking how to measure and find the right ones. So, if I take meter and do as you say, what should I see? I mean, if if I connect wires one by one to the ground, then doors should lock and unlock when I find the right wires? Or should I get some high or low resistance when door is locked or unlocked on these two wires?

Try the BLACK/ orange first when you insert the probe that should lock,  as I said you throw the catch on the door where you are working then shut the other door(s) and remove the key from the ignition switch. Looking at the box sitting over the wheel arch or mounted on the kickpanel, the lockwire is to the outside plug and the unlock is the next one in. I'll get shot for this but you could quite safely use a bulbed test light such as the Snap-On one. It's quite safe.   You can even use a direct ground, having made sure that the wire you are testing is not sitting on 12v+

the locks should be BLACK / YELLOW - unlock   and BLACK/ red - lock   in DKP

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

No they are not. In Euro models they are the colour I stated.

sorry howie i misread the post yes they are the colors you stated

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Actually Chevy it caught me out because I thought all the wiring was identical up to 2005. I've done a US spec version and I can't remember it being different, it had the GEM box in the same place (right hand above passenger's right foot), I just had to mod  the lights to bring it to Euro spec on the alarm. Now we have the ST and the RS,  very fast and furious using the Volvo 5cylinder turbo engine, it's a strange mixture of Ford and Volvo parts and wiring, use Volvo/LandRover transponder by-pass etc etc.

Thanks good to know Howie   just looking over the ford diagrams and the focus was the same until 2005-2006 gem above the passenger foot well   wire colors too   for the locks anyway    wow 5 cylinder turbo must be fairly quick we have the 2.0 and 2.3 here no turbos

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

US and UK (Europe but with R/H/Drive) were identical in part placement and wiring colours until 2005 except lock/unlock and indicatorflash/light flash. North America uses amber running lights and red rear white front indicators. The rest of the world uses amber indicators and white front red rear running (side) lights. The Uk spec  used blue and blue/red for indicators, US had blue, blue/red and 2 other blue primary colours.

Not sure what the clicking noise is I've never come across it before.

 well, it sounds very much like, when you press the button to unlock the doors which is allready unlocked. something like that.