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for schematics, more for build

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113055
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 5:21 AM


Topic: for schematics, more for build

Posted By: xtremeboomer
Subject: for schematics, more for build
Date Posted: April 11, 2009 at 11:09 AM

For you electrical guru's, I simply dont have the expertise to do this, so I'm willing to pay someone who can. 

Preface: Vehicle is a 1998 Subaru Impreza, manual transmission with Scytek Visionguard 8000 2-way Alarm/Remote Starter being installed.  I will have a 140 amp alternator charging two batterys my main (Die Hard Platinum) and auxilary (12v LW race battery in sealed box), they are seperated via a battery isolator(s?).  The lock cylinder will be removed so no steering lock, no key (going to use RFID).  I have upgraded all power and ground wires.   

Incorporating my alarm/remote start and Using a DPDT Center Off Switch as a dual ACC/IGN switch for either my main, or aux battery.  I need to wire an RFID kit (reader/transmitter) to each of the ACC/IGN on the DTPT Center Off Switch then to a keyless push button starter. The position of the switch is to select with a battery isolator which battery is being used  Battery 1 is main battery Battery 2 is auxilary both are wired to the cars main power and fuseblock, ONLY ONE is to provide power based on the seclection from the switch.   

Basic Idea:

Switch is normally on MAIN/ACC/IGN.   Alarm disarm/unlock activates RFID reader (which stays on until the switch is put back to Off/Shutdown, then turns on when unlock/disarm is pushed again), you get in the car and MAIN ACC/IGN is already on -->RFID links and then Push Button Starter can start the car, or pressing  the brake if remote start was used allows you to drive.  On Exit switch to center off to shutdown then back to MAIN/ACC/IGN.  In case of a dead battery I want to be able to switch to AUX.  With no RFID, no push button start so I want a hidden RFID override switch incorporated incase of device failure/lost.  Incase of dead battery, emergency key will work to open door and select AUX power.  I also want the alarm itself wired to both batteries, but with protection from draining below a certain point.

.  The idea is simple, using relays, resistors, diodes, and the nitty gritty schematics are beyond me.  If someone wants to actually build this, or make a schematic I can pay for parts and labor, if you want to tell me what to get and schematics, I can do it myself with instructions.  I can provide the technicals on the alarm system, and my vehicle, RFID readers/transmitters Im open to, push button I am open to as well.  I have looked into Digital Guard Dog's setup, but incorporating that into a keyless system with dual batteries and my alarm is beyond me.  I'd imagine there are alot of you here with the know-how, I'd love the help.  To me this is the perfect setup because I dont have to worry about a key, theft is minimal and I should never have to worry about a dead battery.




Replies:

Posted By: xtremeboomer
Date Posted: April 11, 2009 at 11:12 AM
Sorry Title Was Supposed to say CASH for Schematics, more CASH to Build it.  Didn't show the dollar sign.




Posted By: xtremeboomer
Date Posted: April 11, 2009 at 11:19 AM
argh I cant edit my post?  I realised I cannot have the switch do AUX, and IGN or I would have a constant drain, the switch only is used to select the battery, I instead want the disarm/unlock to activate ACC, also starting my carpc out of standby/hibernation, and turning on the RFID transmitter.




Posted By: xtremeboomer
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 5:34 PM
Nobody wants to tackle this project? 




Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 7:58 PM

A project like that gets pretty involved pretty quick. 

Check out this thread for info on how I built mine: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~94396

It's a little more involved then just a few relays and wires.  My specific project was based around an 9.6mhz central processor and associated custom circuitry. 



-------------
Kevin Pierson




Posted By: xtremeboomer
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 12:43 PM
I am hoping by using the remote start portion of the alarm, i can simplify alot, Im just not sure how to go about getting the RFID to take the place of my acc/ign, how to get the RFID to turn on by using the unlock on the door lock actuator, and to turn off when lock is pressed. 




Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 1:02 PM

I PM'd you with what I did - instead of using lock/unlock use your door pin and a timer.  My car monitors the door pin, the brake, and the actual button itself to enable the RFID antenna.  My antenna draws ~100mA so obviously you can't just power it all the time.  After 30-60 seconds or so you can shut the RFID off and wait for another trigger input.

I would shy away from the lock/unlock setup because if you accidently unlock the car and forget to relock it (or accidently unlock it) you don't want the RFID antenna staying on for long periods of time (even with an AUX battery).



-------------
Kevin Pierson




Posted By: xtremeboomer
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 2:35 PM

By door pin i assume you mean the same one that triggers the dome light when the door is opened?  That should be fine.  I was thinking of making the lock/arm automated once the rfid was out of range so as I walked away the car would automatically lock and turn off the RFID antenna. 

I will have to run my carpc/acc seperatly because I want the carpc to start to wake up when i disarm the alarm so its ready when I get to the car, I also need to make sure the carpc doesnt reboot during engine crank and also goes back into hibernation/standy after 10 or so min without use.  Thats another issue completely.





Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 2:53 PM

How long are you expecing the RFID range to be?  A typical passive system will be 3-4".  You basically only want the RFID system to read the tag once - at start up, and then you don't need to use the RFID tag anymore (you don't want to create a situation where if the RFID system loses the tag that it shuts the car off).

Using passive RFID for locking/unlocking is not really feasable.



-------------
Kevin Pierson




Posted By: xtremeboomer
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 4:20 PM
    I honestly wasn't sure what RFID unit to get, or its range, I figured it was at least 15 feet as the RFID units in some newer cars works around that range and are used for proximity unlocking, and locking would seem just as logical with the use of relays or what not.  My thought was having the unlock command trip a timer for the  RFID that is linked to the acc/ign wires and the RFID remains on until the lock is activated or the key left the range, which I was assuming was beyond the car itself so it wouldnt power itself off while driving.  However thinking about how batteries can get low, it probably isn't a good idea to have the system turn off when the RFID tag gets out of range, but turning off when the doors are locked seemed to make sense to me.  Problem is since I want the RFID to work as my key and the acc/ign wires, the RFID unit cannot turn off, unless the RFID triggered a relay(?) that remained on?  This is honestly the technicals that confuse me so this is where the help comes in alot.  Assuming the RFID only has the range you are talking about then I would want to install the antenna under or near the drivers seat so it can read the fob in my pocket, or if they made a credit card style something I could put in my wallet.   




Posted By: xtremeboomer
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 4:26 PM

https://rfidshop.com.hk/active.html 

Peek at this, this looked like it may work......input?





Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 4:54 PM

OEM systems are active RFID, which means both the car and the fob are battery powered.  OEM range isn't that great, but they use multiple antennas to make up for the lower range.  OEM systems don't "wake up" until you push the button on the door or lift up on the door handle (depending on make/model).  The actual keyfob itself (generally) communicates to the car with RF, not RFID.  The entire process works like this:

Driver wakes up system by pushing button on door
Car sends RFID signal to "wake up" keyfob
Keyfob wakes up and sends unlock command
Car unlocks doors

Going this route will greatly increase the complexity of the system and I doubt you'll get the help you need for such a project on this site.  There are products out there that allow passive entry, but I have yet to see one that allows passive entry and pushbutton start. 

The systems you linked to may work, but I'm guessing they will require quite a bit of power (to get the range they claim).  They are most likely designed to be connected to 120vac.  You may want to contact the company and see what they got - they may have something.

xtremeboomer wrote:

    I honestly wasn't sure what RFID unit to get, or its range, I figured it was at least 15 feet as the RFID units in some newer cars works around that range and are used for proximity unlocking, and locking would seem just as logical with the use of relays or what not.  My thought was having the unlock command trip a timer for the  RFID that is linked to the acc/ign wires and the RFID remains on until the lock is activated or the key left the range, which I was assuming was beyond the car itself so it wouldnt power itself off while driving.  However thinking about how batteries can get low, it probably isn't a good idea to have the system turn off when the RFID tag gets out of range, but turning off when the doors are locked seemed to make sense to me.  Problem is since I want the RFID to work as my key and the acc/ign wires, the RFID unit cannot turn off, unless the RFID triggered a relay(?) that remained on?  This is honestly the technicals that confuse me so this is where the help comes in alot.  Assuming the RFID only has the range you are talking about then I would want to install the antenna under or near the drivers seat so it can read the fob in my pocket, or if they made a credit card style something I could put in my wallet.   



-------------
Kevin Pierson




Posted By: xtremeboomer
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 5:59 PM
I sent an emai l but its a hong kongish company so who knows how good the response will be.  My thought was it has a buzzer that confirms a link, I thought maybe I could have that buzzer link to a relay or a curcuit of some kind that keeps the acc/ign on......maybe im going in the wrong direction though......





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