problem with my clifford g5
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113094
Printed Date: May 18, 2024 at 8:11 PM
Topic: problem with my clifford g5
Posted By: dragtuners
Subject: problem with my clifford g5
Date Posted: April 12, 2009 at 7:04 PM
my car is 1998 acura integra gsr i install everything by the book the alarm is a cliffort g5 770 everything works but when i try to start the car some times the alarm shirp ones and the car don't want to start if i activate the alarm and wait some times the alarm will let me start the car but i have not being able to start the car for 2 days now any help ideas thanks
Replies:
Posted By: ringojam
Date Posted: April 12, 2009 at 7:57 PM
Try and enter the code i mean the blacxjax code.
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Jamaica home of the worlds fastest man.
Posted By: dragtuners
Date Posted: April 12, 2009 at 8:39 PM
i do enter the code on the small pat and still do the same what is blackjax and how dose it worck i am totally new to this thanks for the replay
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 12:57 AM
Ringo, not familiar with this unit, does it have 2 immob. circuits like the UK 650Mkll? I bet one of these has a bad or dry joint, or not working correctly. In that case check all the cuts with a meter with ignition on. On that car ignition is BLACK / YELLOW and starter is BLACK/ white.
Posted By: dragtuners
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 4:04 PM
thanks hoie the wirea are those but i am so new at this i will need a bit more help like what is a dry join and what icheck for o how i check it thanks
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 5:14 PM
Take a meter, make sure neither the alarm or immobiliser is on, set your meter to continuity settings (buzzer) and go across each joint, if you don't get continuity, redo the joints, if that fails you have a problem with one or both of the immobiliser circuits. A dry joint is where the solder hasn't been applied correctly and it hasn't "flowed" into the joint. After a while contact resistance builds up = no connection.
Posted By: ringojam
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 6:59 PM
Very familiar with these alarms its a new installer im just trying to help out >why dont you disconnect the starter wires from the alarm and ignition wires you cut and put them back to factory standards and see if it starts , it could be yr starter going bad,I have installed very many of these units i have only had to return 1 unit its what i have on my personal ride.
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Jamaica home of the worlds fastest man.
Posted By: dragtuners
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 10:19 PM
ringojam wrote:
Very familiar with these alarms its a new installer im just trying to help out >why dont you disconnect the starter wires from the alarm and ignition wires you cut and put them back to factory standards and see if it starts , it could be yr starter going bad,I have installed very many of these units i have only had to return 1 unit its what i have on my personal ride.
yes it will start the problem is when the alarm is connected i deactivate with the remote and then put the code with the switch open then try to start the car you can hear the engine start to turn and then stop that's when the chirp sound ones and then it wont start if i try to turn the key agen to start up the car the same happen
Posted By: scirocco16v
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 10:37 PM
I think i know what the problem is. It sounds like the one time auto arm bypass is being activated indicated by the chirp, which happens normally when you turn the ignition on then off rapidly. What this means is that it sounds like the ignition wire is dropping power from the ignition switch side either because of a faulty ignition connection, a bad connector to the alarm, or even a broken solder joint which was referred to earlier. it is also possible that if the alarm is set for normally open kills, that when the ignition drops out it also opens the starter relay circuit, which would stop it from cranking. It could be a long shot, but Thats what i deduce. i agree with the previous poster to put the wires back to factory and check ignition connections. If there is no bad connections or melting going on them the problem is in the alarm. On a possible related note, the one time out of 100's i have seen a g4 igniton molex melt was on a late 90's model accord. Maybe older honda products like alot of current through the ignition harness, the wires were always thick. Good luck
Posted By: dragtuners
Date Posted: April 13, 2009 at 11:08 PM
thanks alot for all the info guys well like i previous post i have put the wires back to factory and the car starts with no problem what so ever all the conections are brand new and there is no problem with them now if the problem is the alarm how i change it o where i can call thanks
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 2:48 AM
Just connect the ignition key side, rejoined to the ignition, reconnect starter cut as before. I think either a bad joint did you install it yourself? Or you wired key side and ignition side the wrong way round. The proof of that would be that a) You could turn alarm on and of with igntion on, b) You couldn't enter programming mode. I've only once had a starter circuit fail (recently on a G5 650 Mk ll, which is the biggest selling alarm in Europe) and never on a G4.
Posted By: dragtuners
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 3:39 PM
OK ill try to answer yes i did it my self the installation the answers to a) with out changing the wires as of now the alarm can't be turn on o off with the ignition on b) i am able to enter the program mode as the wire are now i haven't change the wires should i do it and test
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 14, 2009 at 4:19 PM
Ok you've wired your key side of the ignition correctly and the joint (soldered?) is OK we now have to go the other, (IGNITION) side and check if you get 12volts + when alarm is off and key is in ignition position.
Posted By: dragtuners
Date Posted: April 17, 2009 at 9:14 PM
howie ll wrote:
Ok you've wired your key side of the ignition correctly and the joint (soldered?) is OK we now have to go the other, (IGNITION) side and check if you get 12volts + when alarm is off and key is in ignition position.
i finally found the problem and it was i was using the wrong wire instead of the BLACK/ white i cut the white /black in the ignition side change that and the problem was solve thanks a lot guys you rock  LOL now to my new dilemma i have 2 smart windows sets i will like to connect the windows and the sunroof to be able to close them when the alarm activate any ideas guys thank
Posted By: dragtuners
Date Posted: April 19, 2009 at 1:43 PM
any ideas guys i am so new at this i don't know where to start
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 19, 2009 at 3:21 PM
Is this vehicle 2 or 4 doors? If 2 you will only need one smart windows. Wire as they say, to the motor wires in each door then use the programming part of your installation guide, follow it exactly to make it all work.
Posted By: dragtuners
Date Posted: April 19, 2009 at 7:37 PM
is a 2 doors i want to be able to do the sunroof and the 2 windows i have 1 more Q? where is beter to get the wires tothe sunroof from the relay o the switch
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 20, 2009 at 2:59 AM
The Smart windows will do the windows, wire directly to the motor wires. Don't think it will do the roof, haven't you got a finger trap about 6" from slide close. Actually the roof's easy, find the open and close relays, usually at top of kickpanel, find the thin lead which goes live on ignition, (GREEN/ YELLOW?) make it permanent then go to the switch and simply ground one of the wires to the alarm's aux output. That will give you roof close. Set the aux for 10 secs or measure the time it takes to reach the trap, say 4secs, set the aux for timed at 5 secs, it hits the trap, hit the aux button again, job done.
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