viper 350hv shock sensor won’t shut up
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113178
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 8:03 PM
Topic: viper 350hv shock sensor won’t shut up
Posted By: tobey457
Subject: viper 350hv shock sensor won’t shut up
Date Posted: April 15, 2009 at 4:39 PM
I have a Viper 350HV installed on my Jeep Wrangler, and all of a sudden the on-board shock sensor won't stop tripping the full alarm. I've tried adjusting it to completely off (knob all the way counter-clockwise) and it's still uber-sensitive. Tried adjusting it all the way in the other direction and still no change... everything trips the sensor. Slamming a car door next to the Jeep will trigger at least warning chirps. So as you all know, it's pretty annoying... and this is a new problem. So I have an extra stand alone dual zone shock sensor that I can install in line with my 508D prox sensor, but first I have to shut off the on-board sensor, and in checking through the manuals, and searching the net, I can't find any way to do so. Is there any tricks to doing this? There is a note in the manual that I can bypass that sensor with the remote when arming, but I need a different remote, so that's out too. I have the cheap-o remote... but I'd like to shut it off completely anyway. Any ideas? Side question - if I tie the wires from a stand alone shock sensor to my 508D prox sensor wires, would I just solder in diodes on the prox sensor wires? If so, any special flavor of diode that I would need? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Replies:
Posted By: tobey457
Date Posted: April 15, 2009 at 10:19 PM
Bumping this to the top. Anyone have any suggestions, short of replacing the brain.
Posted By: loneranger
Date Posted: April 15, 2009 at 10:55 PM
Well, since your bumping, I would slap it a few times. That'll teach that sensor. Ya, it sounds like the pot for the sensor may be defective or damaged. You could open the module and de-solder the pin or cut the trace, from the sensor.
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Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: April 15, 2009 at 11:09 PM
loneranger wrote:
Well, since your bumping, I would slap it a few times. That'll teach that sensor.
HaHa...that dirty little sensor will never learn. -------------
Posted By: tobey457
Date Posted: April 16, 2009 at 4:52 PM
loneranger wrote:
Ya, it sounds like the pot for the sensor may be defective or damaged. You could open the module and de-solder the pin or cut the trace, from the sensor.
Seems like there should be a way to bypass that sensor, just baffles me that they wouldn't but some provision in the menu to do so. I do have a stand-alone shock sensor here, so I'm going to crack the brain open this weekend and see if I can fix the adjustment pot, or cut the trace. Seems like it should be easy to identify, but does anyone have a pic or diagram?
Posted By: tobey457
Date Posted: April 19, 2009 at 10:47 AM
Quick update for anyone else who has this problem: Took the brain out and removed the case. Adjustment pot looked ok, would still turn and stop at either end of the adjustment. So I plugged the circuit board back in (without the case) and tested the sensitivity of the shock sensor by tapping the sensor, and still had the issue. Played with the sensor plunger, looked like it wasn't frozen... then flipped the board over and on the bottom side by the shock sensor traces there was solder splatter from when the board was made. I scrapped it all off with my fingernail and seems like the problem is now gone. Odd, since the alarm has been installed for like 9 months, and this issue just came up last week. But for now (knock on wood) it seems to be working correctly. Time will tell.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 19, 2009 at 1:10 PM
Re a dual zone, first if you have the internal unit working correctly and a dual zone prox, then you surely don't need a dual zone shock, but, if you must, wire in parallel to the 508, diodes on all 4 blues and greens, type 1N400X bands towards sensors.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 19, 2009 at 1:11 PM
Sorry just a thought, back when we called the 350 a Clifford Matrix, we used to quite securely mount or cable tie the brain. That helped.
Posted By: tobey457
Date Posted: April 19, 2009 at 3:43 PM
howie ll wrote:
Re a dual zone, first if you have the internal unit working correctly and a dual zone prox, then you surely don't need a dual zone shock, but, if you must, wire in parallel to the 508, diodes on all 4 blues and greens, type 1N400X bands towards sensors.
After further testing I don't know that the internal sensor is working correctly. It's definitely not triggering the full siren at every noise anymore, but now unless I turn it to the least sensitive position, it will chirp at everything. I beat the crap out of my jeep during testing and I can only get it to chirp back, no more full siren. So I may just turn the onboard sensor to its lowest sensitivity, and run the stand-alone sensor. Thank you for the info on the diodes! howie ll wrote:
Sorry just a thought, back when we called the 350 a Clifford Matrix, we used to quite securely mount or cable tie the brain. That helped.
See, I've always secured my alarm brains tight, but the install manual on this one said specifically not to screw it down, so I didn't. When reinstalling the brain (after my testing) I secured it with industrial strength velcro, so now it's more solid than the caluking I used before, and it seems like the sensor is now working more consistantly. It just doesn't trigger the full alarm! This is definitely the most finicky alarm I've ever owned.
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