code alarm srt 9000 on 01 malibu
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113436
Printed Date: July 18, 2025 at 9:44 PM
Topic: code alarm srt 9000 on 01 malibu
Posted By: bradinar
Subject: code alarm srt 9000 on 01 malibu
Date Posted: April 26, 2009 at 9:37 PM
Hello everyone, This is my first post. I am currently in the middle of my first alarm/RS install. The car is an 01 chevy malibu and I am tring to install a Code Alarm SRT 9000. I have some problems/questions if any one could help I would appreciate it. 1. I used the wiring diagram on this site which was very helpful but i still cannot find the dome supervision. It says it is a white wire in column/dashlight. Does this mean steering column or a door column or which dashlight? Can anyone tell me specifically where it is? 2. My second problem is my door lock relay. The car has a negative lock and unlock with a 1.5k resistor on unlock side. I wired the relays up according to the manual for "one wire negative multiplex" . The doors will unlock but not lock. My lock output is going to 86, 87 to ground, 85 to 12V and 30 to the lock/unlock wire. Is this correct or do I have the wires on the wrong numbers? 3. Door triggers aren't working correctly. The car has two (-) triggers. When the alarm arms and the doors are closed the alarms tells me i have door ajar. I diode isolated them. The wiring guide says the passengers trigger is a light blue wire in the harness coming from the drivers side kick going under the seat but there are several light blue wires. How do I tell which one it is? 4. The car has two pink wires coming from the key switch. Do I need to use both ignition wire outputs on the alarm? 5. I am using a DEI 555LW. I have the BLACK/ blue wire connected to the Active output/ignition wire coming from the SRT 9000. Do I need to hook the pink wire to the ignition wire? Thanks in advance!
Replies:
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 2:20 PM
1. The domelight wire on pretty much any GM car is white, yes. But it's only going to be available under the dashboard if the car has under-dash courtesy lights.
You could always just run a wire up to the domelight itself.
But you don't even need to do that....don't even need to wire u a relay. Just connect the Code Alarm's domelight supervision wire to the car's driver's door trigger wire directly......that'll work and is easier.
2. The relay you have set up is for unlock, right? Where is the green lock output from the Code Alarm connected?
3. You test the wire with your meter or test light. Find the wire that shows a ground when any of the other three doors are open.
You are testing all of the wires in the car before hooking up to them, right?
4. If you follow the two pink wires up to the ignition switch, they terminate in the same place in the plug. You can splice into either of the pink wires as your Ignition 1; splicing into both pinks isn't necessary.
5. Yes. The 555L won't begin to "learn" the car's resistance value until it sees ignition.
Also, if the car's Passlock system sees three consecutive failed start attempts, it'll lock up until you leave the ignition in Run for 10 minutes.
If your remote start isn't working, and you for any reason suspect it's a Passlock issue, it's a good idea to start the engine with the key after every second failed remote start.......that'll keep it from locking up on you.
Posted By: bradinar
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 3:04 PM
Thanks for your help Chris. Good to know about the domelight supervision. That is much easier. 2. I have a relay on both the lock and unlock outputs. The green lock output from the code alarm is connected to a relay on the 86 pin, 87 to ground, 85 to 12v, and 30 to the factory wire. I have been reading some posts and some have said that it isn't necessary to use relays for lock/unlock on this vehicle, can you confirm this? Also do I need to hook the 2nd ignition output from the code alarm to the dark green wire? Two more quick questions if you don't mind. 1. If i hook up the trunk lights negative wire to the instant trigger wire for the code if the trunk is opened while armed it will set the alarm off, correct? 2. If i hook up the parking lights output from the code alarm to the headlights at the steering column on the switch do i need to use a relay or will it have enough voltage to trigger them? thanks again.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 4:04 PM
No problem. Glad to help.
My experience is with the Pursuit and Prestige brands from Audiovox......but as far as I know the SRT9000 is the exact same stuff, they just use different wire colors.
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Doorlocks: Yes, you can do it without relays. Need one resistor and one diode.
So, get rid of the relays.
Bring your Code's green and blue lock and unlock wires over to the Malibu's white lock/unlock wire.
Connect Code's green lock output to "band" side of diode. Connect other side of diode to car's lock/unlock wire.
Connect Code's blue unlock output to the LOWEST value resistor that comes in the 15-pack of resistors with the remote starter.....it's like 300 ohms or something like that. Connect the other end of the resistor to the car's lock/unlock wire.
If you're not able to measure the resistors for ohms, the one you need is at the very end of the 15-pack. Grab the resistor from one end of the pack, make a temporary connection........if it works, great. If it didn't work, grab the resistor from the other end of the pack.
Also, leave your locks for LAST, after the rest of the system is fully installed and functional. That way, you can just hit the buttons on the remote to verify that it works, before taping all the wires up and everything.
NOTE: I'm pretty sure that car has a feature from GM that doesn't lock the doors immediately if they're open, unless you lock them twice. During testing, you can use a small screwdriver to close the latch on the driver's door.
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Trunk trigger: Yes, that's exactly right, except on some of those cars the BCM will false the alarm, and you'll need to cut the car's wire and put a diode inline.
You'll have to give it a try. Make a temporary connection, close up the car, arm alarm, leave car alone for 20 minutes........if it falses, use the search feature here on this site for the fix.
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Ignition wires: You'll get all kinds of warning lights and stuff if you don't power up the second ignition.
Pink: runs car's engine
green: runs other important things
orange accessory: runs heat/ac, necessary
brown accessory: runs minor accessories like wipers and power windows......opinions differ, but I don't connect it.
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Parking lights: The Code alarm has a built in relay with plenty of power capacity.
So if the one you have is like the others I've installed, there are two parking light wires on the brain......an input and an output.
Connect the input side to FUSED constant power. Connect the output side to the car's positive parking light wire.
No need to play around the steering column. Probably the easiest place to get parking lights on that car is at the back of the radio, and you're already there anyway to do the ignition and Passlock.
Posted By: bradinar
Date Posted: April 29, 2009 at 11:00 AM
Chris, I followed your directions and got everything working except my remote start won't function. I have the tach wire connected and followed the instructions to "learn" the idle and I think it accepted it but when I hit the button the remote says remote start aborted. I have IGN 1 going to the pink wire, IGN 2 to the drk green, ACC 1 to the orange wire. I connected the 555L to the pink ignition wire and BLACK/ blue to the BLACK/ blue output on the Code Alarm. Have I got something hooked up wrong somewhere?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 29, 2009 at 3:39 PM
It's possible one of the safety inputs isn't seeing the correct signal.
Verify that the brake input to the system does NOT see positive when your foot's off the brake pedal.
Verify that the hoodpin input does NOT see ground when the hood is closed.
I can't remember if that model has a separate on/off control toggle switch, but be sure it's installed and set to the "on" position.
Posted By: bradinar
Date Posted: May 01, 2009 at 10:10 AM
Chris, It does have a seperate on/off safety switch. I switched it to on and it works great. Of course it was the easiest thing that I missed  . Got everything lined out now. Thanks again for all your help!
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