battery drain figured out? need input
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113452
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 12:06 AM
Topic: battery drain figured out? need input
Posted By: lostissues
Subject: battery drain figured out? need input
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 6:30 PM
I am looking for a little verification on my thoughts about my electrical dilemma. Problem: when my car (03 Subaru 2.5rs) sits for a few days and sometimes for a few hours it will drain the battery. I have an optima yellow top and have already killed one. I pulled the fuses on my remote start alarm it is a Compustar 2WSSAS and I also pulled the fuses on my window mods they are DEI 530Ts after a day (my battery died the night before in just a few hours) it started fine, I put the fuses back into my Compustar and then the next day it still worked fine. I know that it was a short period to let it sit but I believe when I pulled the fuses out of the 530T I thought I heard it deactivate so I started thinking that maybe it was somehow staying activated and draining the battery. So I started thinking about how it could be hooked up wrong and then I go to thinking that maybe its hooked up correctly and maybe it’s a compatibility thing. My thoughts: I use the ground when armed wire off my Compustar in the manual it says this:
PIN 5 Violet- 250mA (-) negative output when armed and remote started. This wire will provide a (-) negative output when system is locked and armed and during remote start for anti-grind. (Note: This wire can also be used to trigger after-market L.E.D. kits and other after-market accessories. Output must be diode isolated when used to trigger after-market accessories.)
I cannot remember if I used a diode or not could that be where my problem comes from? Does anyone know if on DEI remote starts or alarm ground when armed wire output a pulse or a constant -? I was thinking that the ground when armed wire is activated that it is keeping my 530ts activated and killing my battery. The other thing is that when I pulled the fuse on the 530ts the windows stopped working from my driver switch. I believe that I hooked up the wires interfacing with the windows incorrectly. Shouldn’t you be able to pull the fuses to the 530ts and have the car windows act like it should stock? Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Jonathan
Replies:
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 8:37 PM
First problem is that you used the GROUND WHEN ARMED. This will activate the window modules everytime you arm the alarm system. What you want to have is to activate the window modules via the AUX 1 and AUX 2 and have it set to timed output or latched.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 8:48 PM
Using the ground when armed output to trigger a 530t is normal. Nothing wrong with that. I have done that in my last 4 personal vehicles, as well as customer cars. You can tell if you used a diode easily. When you shut the ignition off, do the windows roll up immediately? If so, you forgot the diode. If they roll up after you arm it, you put the diode in....or else you messed something else up.
Removing the fuses from the 530t should stop the windows from working. That is normal. The factory switches now trigger the 530t to roll up/down the windows. No power to 530t....windows no worky.
Posted By: lostissues
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 9:12 PM
JWorm] wrote:
sing the ground when armed output to trigger a 530t is normal. Nothing wrong with that. I have done that in my last 4 personal vehicles, as well as customer cars. You can tell if you used a diode easily. When you shut the ignition off, do the windows roll up immediately? If so, you forgot the diode. If they roll up after you arm it, you put the diode in....or else you messed something else up.
Removing the fuses from the 530t should stop the windows from working. That is normal. The factory switches now trigger the 530t to roll up/down the windows. No power to 530t....windows no worky.
My car is a manual transmission so when I take the key out and then close the door the car shuts down and arms, when it arms it rolls up my windows. If i were to take the key out and press the brake making the starter not be able to go into reservation mode the windows would stay down. But I do not understand how not putting the diode in would affect when the window would roll up. I was just thinking that the 530t would reconnect the factory wiring when in a non powered up state. thanks for the help so far
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 9:21 PM
When the ignition is off, it rests at a ground state. 86 on the starter kill relay goes to ignition, and 85 goes to the ground when armed of the alarm. When you turn the car off, the "ground" from the ignition backfeeds thru the coil of the starter kill relay and goes up the ground when armed wire. It would then feed into the 530t whenever you turn the ignition off, and roll up the windows.
Adding a diode to the ground when armed wire (in the right place) prevents the ground from the ignition from back feeding thru the ground when armed wire.
The 530t does not reconnect anything when in a non-powered state. You may have noticed the wires coming from the 530t that go to the switch side of the car are skinny, while the wires that go to the motor side are thicker. The window switch in the car is now sending a low current trigger to the 530t which is now powering the windows.
Posted By: lostissues
Date Posted: April 27, 2009 at 10:48 PM
so does it sound like if I had the ground when armed wires hooked up with the diode it could be triggering my 530ts all the time when the alarm is set? so they are constantly drawing power? and adding the diode should make my parasitic drain problem go away?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 29, 2009 at 7:46 AM
Just reading this post quickly, yes I've always used GWA to feed pairs of 530's on my own cars with no probs. Yes one way to eliminate potential problems would be to use a timed aux, you then have the advantage of more control over the windows, disadvantage being you may leave them open. That brings me to diodeing. Could it be flipping the relay coil? L astly but most important, do the diagnostics properly. DMM at battery,shouldn't be more than 40-60mamps at rest, work back disconnecting fuses inc. alarm accessories, amp etc. as you go
Posted By: lostissues
Date Posted: April 29, 2009 at 12:25 PM
I have tried to do the parasitic drain test to no avail, I am 100 percent sure that it is my error. I have a friend that went to school for mechanics and knows how to do it so I may recruited him to help me out. but in the mean time I decided to pull the fuses out of the alarm and 530ts and it seamed to stop the drain. so I put the fuses back in the alarm and it still seams to be ok. But what I really want to know at this point because in my mind I have narrowed it down to the 530ts is this: will not using a diode between the ground when armed output from the alarm and the ground when armed input from the 530ts somehow make the 530ts stay activated and drain my battery? also the ground when armed input from the 530t does that use a pulse or is it ok to see ground when armed all the time (I cannot see this being a problem because it is grounded whenever it is armed) the other triggers i have it hooked up to is and aux channel to roll them down and also my trunk pop channel (manual trunk and it cracks the window, but I don't use it often because it also disarms my alarm when i do it because it expects the trunk to be open.) Thanks, Jonathan
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