1994 chevy silverado viper 5901 problems
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113734
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 4:38 AM
Topic: 1994 chevy silverado viper 5901 problems
Posted By: amh9002
Subject: 1994 chevy silverado viper 5901 problems
Date Posted: May 10, 2009 at 9:43 PM
I am trying to finish up my install of my Viper 5901 system. I have run into a few snags though. My first problem is that when the truck is turned off, the indicator lights on the dash light up and the fuel pump engages(like it does in the accessory position) after about 30-60 seconds. I don't know if this is an accessory wire problem or not? Secondly, I can't get the remote start to work. It says that is active, the lights flash, but nothing else happens. The starter will not engage. I have run through the troubleshooting in the manual and I am still stumped. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 11, 2009 at 6:06 AM
Did you install the pinswitch on the engine compartment?
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 11, 2009 at 8:42 AM
yes, i have the pinswwitch installed, along with the neutral safety switch, and the brake cutoff. i have already been through the error flashes, and solved those initial problems. the remote and the dash act as if my truck is starting but the starter doesn't do anything.
Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: May 11, 2009 at 2:45 PM
Did you hook up the tach wire or is it programmed for voltage sense?
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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 11, 2009 at 3:04 PM
the tach wire is hooked up to the ignition coil and the brain is programmed to read tachometer signal.
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 2:10 PM
did you program it for automatic tranny? when you learned tach did the blue LED light up acknowledging tach?
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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 2:18 PM
So when you try to start it with remote start, how many times does the lights flash?
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 2:51 PM
Yes it is set up for auto transmission. Also. If you are asking about the flashes because of the error feedback flashes it's not that type of flash. I don't get the remote start error. The problem I am having is that the dash lights up as if it was trying to start. I here the starter engage but it diesengages right after. It then proceeds to do this until I hit the remote start button again to shut it off. I then get 4 flashes which is what I am assuming is the system reporting a successful start since the errors start at 5 flashes. But I checked my starter wire with a multimeter like the manual says to do and when I do that it shows very little voltage. When I start with key however the starter wire shows the correct amount of voltage
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 3:37 PM
Ok so lets try this. One of three things to narrow it down. 1.) put the key in the ignition position and try to remote start it. if it starts up you know your missing an ignition wire. 2.) did you program tach. Not just have it in the setting for tach but actually starting the car with the key and holding the valet button. 3.) try putting it into voltage or virtual tach. You may just have a weak tach signal.
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 4:04 PM
Ok tach was programmed. I reprogrammed it to be safe. Didn't solve the problem. Setting to virtual tach didn't do the trick. And remote starting in ignition position didn't work either. Allthough my door locks starting pulsing when I activated remote start in the ignition position. Must of screwed up something I just don't know what. I've checked all my heavy guage wires with the multimeter and am fairly certain they are all in the correct location. I could be wrong though
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 4:36 PM
I also just found out that I have 2 extra wires coming off my ignition harness a brown wire that shows accessory power by the meter and a dk green wire that is smaller in size and also shows acc
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 4:37 PM
time to grab a meter and VERIFY every connection..... also, make sure you don't have 2nd IGN programmed as 2nd ACC.... or it will drop out during crank....
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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 5:03 PM
Ok I tested all my connections. Found two new accesory wires too. (not sure if you saw my last post). One I believe is strictly for ac but not sure. The other I have no Idea. Can I run one off the flex relay (larger brown acc) and the other off of the orange wire on the optional remote start output harness. If so do I need to set my flex relay to accessory then. I know you said to make sure not to set it to that in your last post but if it is powering a second acc wouldn't that be the right setting?
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 5:20 PM
you shouldn't need to.... any of the 94's i ever remeber doing only needed the 2 IGN's (Pink & white) and the 1st ACC (orange) powered (as well as crank -yellow) did you power up all of the primary harness red wires?? red, RED / black and RED / white? they all need to be powered.....
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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 5:33 PM
Ok well that might explain the problem. I didn't know there were two ignition wires. I only saw one under the dash and all the documentation I looked at said there is only one. But I do have all three constant 12v's wired up
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 5:39 PM
that would do it........
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 5:45 PM
should the white wire be coming off of the ignition harness? If so it's not there. Just the first ignition power And the three acc wires
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 6:23 PM
could be old enough it only has 1 IGN (can't remember last time i did a 94) just meter all wires at the switch... if it only has 1 IGN then that's all that need to be connected.... definately should only need 1 ACC powered....
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 6:46 PM
ok then it's only ign wire. All others show 12 volt in run but drops off during start. Except power and accesory of course
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 7:20 PM
When you did virtual tach did you program for it. Like go into programing then remote start it. If it doesn't start the first time let it go again then when it does start shut it off with the remote. Or try programing for voltage and set the crank time a little higher.
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 9:02 PM
I did program it for virtual tach. I let it try to crank about 5 or 6 times before I shut it off
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 9:24 PM
What about the voltage. Did you try that and set the crank time because if everything is getting power than it should start. Are you sure you have a 94. I know it sounds stupid but a lot of people don't know what year their cars truly are. There's something missing here.
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 10:21 PM
yeah I tried to bump the crank time to about 1.2 seconds or whatever is the closest to that. And I'm positivei have a 94. All the wiring for the 88-98 models are supposed to be the same (according to the chilton manual) anyways. And I don't know if it helps but I put the multimeter on the starter wire when I cranked it by key and got a reading of about half way up the meter. Then I tried to remote start and it only shows less than a quarter up the meter. The starter just gives one loud crank (kind of like a "clunk" noise) and then stops and tries again. Somehow the system isn't pushing enough voltage to the starter during RS. I almost wander if I have the starter wires backwards but I can't because I have the green wire running to the harness sitting on top of the steering column. And unless I'm mistaken that would be key side of the starter wire. On a side note: a truck that old wouldn't have an Immobilizer would it?
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 10:28 PM
Green key side purple is starter side.
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 10:38 PM
that's the way I've got it wired.
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 10:43 PM
Ok I know this is going to sound dumb, but if you could write down exactly what color wire you have going to what color wire in the car. Visually do it to so that way you know for sure what you have connected to what. Post it on here and I'll do my best.
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 10:59 PM
ok for heavy guage wires:
Pink ign 1 to pink
Red constant 12 volt to red
RED / white polarity feed to red
RED / black polarity feed to red
Purple to purple (starter side)
Green to purple (key side)
Orange acc to orange
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 11:25 PM
So you have all the reds hooked up to a 12 v constant right
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 14, 2009 at 9:25 AM
Yes all reds to 12 v constant. I have two 12 volt constant coming off the ignition harness. Got two hooked up to one of the red constants and one on the other
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 14, 2009 at 11:20 AM
Ok what is the actually voltage reading coming off of the purple wire when you remote start it.
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 14, 2009 at 11:39 AM
it's probably about 3 or 4 volts
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 14, 2009 at 12:58 PM
its getting 3-4 volts. it cranks with remote start right just not starts. I would say if the remote start is only putting that out I would say problem with the brain. Where did you get it from.
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 14, 2009 at 1:04 PM
it tries to crank. But it gives one loud clank noise and then shuts off an tries again. Everything else works on the brain. Alarm door locks so I don't know if that is the problem.
Posted By: kassdog
Date Posted: May 14, 2009 at 5:28 PM
ok, i would say bad brain since its only putting out about half of what it is taking in. Do you have a good ground on the unit. Like in the kick panel scraped the paint and screwed in with a star washer.
Posted By: amh9002
Date Posted: May 14, 2009 at 8:10 PM
I didn't scrape the paint. I'll try doing that and then grounding and see what happens
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