Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2003 murano windows problem lock/unlock

hello guys my first time here ,i need help on a 2003 nissan murano i have done remote starter [avital5303] and what happens is that when i unlock the car with the remote the windows go down all the way,then if i press lock it goes half way up, the right way to work wwould be to press lock or unlock and nothing happens with the windows [just front windows right and left that are moving with lock\ unlock ]the back windows they are not moving with the lock/unlock. i also want to put on this car 2 of 530t but i need fix this issue before .thanks

It sounds like your lock/unlock trigger is too long. Anything much longer then 0.8 seconds will cause the windows to start moving.

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Kevin Pierson

Hi Ricardo (you're not Brazilian by chance, are you?),

like KPierson said, the doorlock pulses are too long.

You have three options:

1. If available in programming, reduce the timing of your lock output.

2. Use the search feature here, and get the doorlocks at the BCM inside the car instead of going inside the door.

3. Configure a relay, for a positive pulse, activated by your "factory alarm disarm" and "factory alarm rearm" pulses from the remote starter.........connect the relay's output to the car's ignition wire.

This will power up the car's ignition wire every time you lock and unlock. The car's automated windows don't work with the ignition on, so you'll be all set.

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Windows control: The car already has automated windows. Just connect your AUX output(s) from your remote starter to the car's lock and unlock wires..........as you've already seen, if you put an extended pulse on the wire, the windows will go up or down.

Chris Luongo ,kpierson im very happy for your guys help i haven't tried it yet but i will on saturday i want just to make sure that i will do the right thing ,i forgot to mention when im on the car driving the doors will lock normally but if i have to stay in the car for a couple of seconds for unlock doors it takes a couple seconds to worknormally it works when the car shuts off ,then if i try to get out of the car fast , the front windows move down but if i stay a couple of seconds more waiting inside the car everthing is ok .the problem is every time im driving then stop i have to stay a couple seconds inside thats is not correct way to work ,about 530t you're sayng i dont need it?not at all even for the back windows ?before i forget yes im brazilian thanks ..

ricardoboston wrote:

Chris Luongo ,kpierson im very happy for your guys help i haven't tried it yet but i will on saturday i want just to make sure that i will do the right thing ,i forgot to mention when im on the car driving the doors will lock normally but if i have to stay in the car for a couple of seconds for unlock doors it takes a couple seconds to worknormally it works when the car shuts off ,then if i try to get out of the car fast , the front windows move down but if i stay a couple of seconds more waiting inside the car everthing is ok .the problem is every time im driving then stop i have to stay a couple seconds inside thats is not correct way to work ,about 530t you're sayng i dont need it?not at all even for the back windows ?before i forget yes im brazilian thanks ..

The moderators generally want us to keep everything in one post, so it doesn't get mixed up.

Do you have the "ignition controlled doorlocks" feature from the remote start turned on? Because the Nissan requires two pulses to unlock the doors, there will always be that delay when unlocking.

Maybe your Murano already has an automatic doorlock feature from the factory, that will lock the doors when you put the car in Drive, and unlock when you put it in Park? If it does, just use that.....and turn off the ignition controlled locks from the remote start.

And as far as whether you need a 530T, yes, you'll need it if you want to control the rear windows. But you could probably at least use the factory Nissan feature for the front windows and save a little time and money.

E....voce e Brasileiro mesmo, legal. Sou Americano, mas tenho muito amigo Brasileiro. Moro em Malden, quase na divisa de Everett e Revere. Meu servico ta um pouco devagar esses dias, e se precisar alguem pra dar uma olhada na sua instalacao, te ajudarei.

You will need it for the rear windows as no Muranos have anti pinch on the rear windows.

Could you please try to clearify the description of the problem regarding the windows. Are you saying if you shut the ignition off and right away open the doors the windows drop, but if you turn the ignition off and wait a few seconds before opening the door the windows do not drop?

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Kevin Pierson

hello i whant to thank you guys chris luongo and kpierson for still helping me,kpierson about it

yes that's right its exactly like that .maybe it happening because the double pulse??? or because i use the factory alarm disarm with unlock?/? well i have another questio is should i use ORANGE ground when armed for rear windows up connected with 530t and same wire connected too with lock to make front windows up?or should i use confot closure on for front windows ?and RED / WHITE [-]200ma channel 2 validity for rear windows down with 530t and same wire connected with unlock for front windows down ? or another option is violet/black and WHITE/ black unit its a AVITAL5303 CHRIS LUONGO CONTACT AT AMERICADONORTE@HOTMAIL.COM,THANKS

if you would want the windows to roll on arming, you could use the comfort close on the front windows via the lock wire, and use the orange for the rear with the 530t, it would be easier as you would not have to diode isolate, the RED / white wire can be used for down, diode isolate to unlock trigger and 530t trigger, band facing alarm.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

hello guys im back here just to say thank you all for being professinal and friendly ,i definatly finished that murano last saturday and almost everthing is workin except for the driver's door ,its not doing lock anymore it does do the unlock ,and all 3 passenger doors are fine,could it be a bad relay or fuse ?any idea how i can solve or test it thanks

Does it just not lock with the alarm? Does the interior "lock" button still function? How about the OEM keyless remote? Since you are using a (-) signal to lock the doors I can't think of any reason why the alarm would fail to lock all the doors at once - this vehicle uses a "shared" lock output from the BCM.

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Kevin Pierson

not working at all even with the interior lock button,all 3 doors do complete lock /unlock using the alarm remote or when i use the oem alarm remote or when i use the interior button and only drivers door its not doing lock ,unlock only.

The first thing I would do is find the drivers door unlock wire and verify that it rests at ground. The only thing I can think of that would cause your problem is a bad drivers door unlock relay (no longer resting at ground). This typically occurs when a trace gets burnt leading to the NC contact of the relay, causing the relay to no longer rest at ground. Luckily, it's usually pretty easy to fix, you'll just have to pop open the BCM, locate the drivers door unlock relay, and verify there are no burnt traces on it.

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Kevin Pierson

i will try to do as is your sayng , but only thing im worrying about is unpluging the bcm module, and then after put it back are you sure no lights on dash will appear as check engine etc?have you done that before with no problems to re install the module ?because i dont have a computer diagnostic, and you re sayng to check if the unlock wire is rest at ground right.? yes its rest at ground but my problem its just [lock] drivers door its unlock normally.thanks kpierson.

If you are worried about throwing a code just disconnect the battery first. I have removed/unplugged Nissan BCMs and not had any issues.

Are you sure it rests at ground? Did you check it with an ohm meter? What is the ohm reading between ground and the unlock wire?

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Kevin Pierson

hello kpierson i was using a probe test .this saturday i will have time.then i will re check with a digital meter .i will open the bcm and ill let you know anything by saturday ,thank you.

You really shouldn't be using a test probe on this vehicle.

Since the door lock system rests at ground (both the lock and unlock side of the actuator) it is very possible your probe was reading ground through the actuator (which is why it is important to know the resistance to ground).

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Kevin Pierson

hi Kevin Pierson its me again ricardo the thing is ,i just got a digital multimeter and im not sure how to test thoses wires ,thats the only reason i did not touch in that car yet,also can you give me some steps as if lock unlock its rest at ground what should do,if this is a good signal or not can you please explaim me how to use it for lock unlock because i will try it next saturday about rest of the car everthing its perfect .thank you very much for you time.god bless you

im sorry almost forgot one more thing ,i need know how to wire a varad scanner,has 3 wires red power 12 volt .,black ground .and yellow ignition wire .the thing is i wired black chassis ground and red 12volt but the scanner start blinking , before arm the alarm ,i need to know if i can put red .to the power 12volt constant and black to the ground when armed output,and cut the yellow ?thanks

here's a suggestion ricardo, since you're fairly new at this, this is probably alot easier and safer in comparison to removing the bcm, set your meter to read twenty volts or so, and attach the red and black probes to both actuator wires, and using your rocker switch or alarm, lock and unlock the doors, you should get a positive twelve reading when the locks move in one direction and a negative twelve reading when they move in the other direction, if you have verified that you have gotten readings in both directions, then it's possible your actuator is at fault, if you only get readings with unlock only, then probably the trace on the bcm is burnt, a simple fix would be to use two relays and wire them for reverse polarity, and connect the driver actuator alone to it and you could simply diode isolate the rocker switch and alarm inputs to the relay so they work as they normally would.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

kevin i just thought of something, if the actuators share a lock output from the bcm, then won't a burnt trace on the nc contacts cause a no lock situation with all doors, or am i missing something.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

My thought is that the ground connection on the unlock relay has been damaged. This would allow the unlock function to work (lock ground is still good, NO contact on unlock relay still good). Because of this the lock outputs still work fine.

It almost can't be the actuator itself because the actuator still moves in one direction. I've never seen an actuator only work in one direction.

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Kevin Pierson

If I were testing it I would find the unlock actuator and measure the resistance between that wire and ground. It should be very close to zero (no more then 1 ohm).

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Kevin Pierson

you know guys i have one idea .check it out how about if kevin is right in your opinion and i have a bcm problem ok.so my idea is bring from the other door [in this case i have 3 doors working perfect lock unlock ] and get there all the wires necessary for the driver side and then make a connection ,and isolate the wires from drivers side just re using the plug with my new wires from the other door . just an idea .of course i will for sure test the wires as you guys just told me thanks

t&t i know how to wire reverse polarity,but about the diode isolate the rocker switch and alarm inputs to the relay the diode band will always face to the alarm right? so i will need for diode right 2 for the rocker switch and 2 for the inputs from alarm .and how about if i brigde from the other door those wires lock unlock from actuator and then put for the driver door actuator.thanks

yes ricardo you will need four 1N4001 series diodes to accomplish the relay thing, but it would be easier to pick up the actuator motor wires in either on of the doors or the driver floor loom. the relay setup was just to determine the fault of the system.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

also kevin i made a mistake with the actuator being the fault, only realized when i re read the thread, my internet's giving me stress, so some of my posts aren't being submitted,

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

t&t tech hello guys im back here again with the old same problem that i had before with the 2003 nissan murano well you guys now most the story the thing is i have pulled wires from the front passengers door and connected with drivers front door so everthing was working fine i just feel like the doors dont have enogh power to lock or unlock,but all 4 doors was kind of working ok not 100% but it was better than nothing but now 2 doors are getting very slow to lock or unlock most of the time not unlock or locking . i was wondering if its possible to reconnect all 4 doors using a relay reversing polarity , and if will be possible to keep using the rocker switch from the drivers door ,just because im tryng to live the car working the way it was. Guys i have spent a new door lock actuator for the drivers side but no succes ,and a couple days on this so the only thing than i want is take care of my friends car for once,and see him happy so can anybody give me a couple of your guys time and help me on this

Yes you can use a reverse polarity setup along with the factory rocker switch and eveerything will work just as before except for the central locking if it was present before. What you have to do is locate the actuator motor wires for all four doors, and the two negative trigger wires at the rocker switch, the alarm will be connected to these two wires in the vehicle, you can trace them and you will be cutting both wires of from the bcm side they should only be connected to the rocker switch controls on the driver door. I'll post a diagram of what you need. Or you can purchase dei's 451m it's alot neater and easier.

where the diagram says alarm lock and unlock inputs is where the rocker switch's negative trigger wires will also connect, diode isolate the inputs, two one amp diodes to each input, they come together on the relay side, band facing towards the alarm and rocker switch side in each instance.

thanks for still with me i do have one 451m but i dont have a clue how wire it like you tell me

Here's how you do the 451m, i'm doing this from my head so correct me if i'm wrong, You should have six wires present on the module,

Violet/black- constant fused twelve

violet- common with the violet/black (leave it as it is)

white black- ground

brown black - ground

blue/black- unlock actuator motor wire

GREEN/ black- lock actuator motor wire,

the three pin plug will plug directly into the port if you have a dei unit. And the rocker switch outputs will be connecting to the blue and green wires from the three pin harness, If you do not have a dei unit let me know.