05 mustang r/s issues

Ok so I have the Mustang back to work on it this is what it is doing.


With the key in the barrel it will crank and run for about ten seconds and stop. With the PK ALL I used the red and black wire for 12V and ground. When I press the button on there to program it when I put in the four pin connector it lights up red and stay lit. Then I put in the second connector. Let go of the button and turn the car on. They "lock" symbol in the dash turns off and I do the same with the next key and wait for it to turn off then try to start it and all it does is turn on the accs and the light in the dash just flashes like the cars security has not been bypassed.

On the connector I used connection type "5" and have the RX going to the red wire from the car's connector and the TX going to the next wire over.

Without the key in the ignition all the acc turn on but the car will not start. It will only start with the key in the ignition.

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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.

What kind of starter unit are u using and bypass. It souds like a remote starter not being program for tach or tachless.

I have a Prestige APS-920 with the PKALL. During the programming mode it started up ONCE but it didn't program. During the programming stage where I have to r/s the car within ten seconds it will beep at me four times before it tries which pushes it past ten seconds. I look at the manual to see if that is a Diagnostic code but it is not. And once it does the four beeps and tries to start it is past ten seconds so the PKALL does not accept it.

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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.

Sounds like you've got two separate problems.

1. With key in ignition, remote start works, but runs for only ten seconds.

Change the "voltage level" setting in programming on the APS920. If that doesn't work satisfactorily, you'll need to connect the tach wire.

2. APS920 not activating fast enough to program your bypass module.

I'm more familiar with the more basic APS620, but they're probably similar.

Those units, if you just had the ignition on a few seconds before.......they simply take forever to remote start. Nothing that can be done about that.

You'll have to instead use some jumper wires to apply a ground to the bypass module's ground-when-running input, and to apply power to the car's ignition wire. That should get it to program.

Ok awesome I have been waiting by the computer for a response. I will try that and post the results.

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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.

Ok with the ignition with a constant 12v and the gwr wire is grounded the car wont start. The light in the dash is flashing as well.

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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.

I remember something about keysense wire is exact same gauge as power...Be careful...If you powered ignition to constant ,was the by-pass powered up and then you had key in ignition...? If so, sounds like it was seeing two rf signals.{in last post} ...It does sound like tach/tach-less has not been learned/set. And the by-pass has not been properly programmed...Try the tach/tach-less mode{un-hook by-pass learn voltage or tach, put key in ignition and see if it starts and stays running} once you get it to start and stay running w/ key in ignition then work on the By-Pass...

}

	Anti Theft RX		GRAY/ORANGE
	Anti Theft TX		WHITE/ LIGHT GREEN
	Rear Defrost		WHITE

ALSO AT PASSIVE ANTITHEFT TRANSCEIVER NEAR IGNITION CYLINDER

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Teamrf wrote:

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Ok with the ignition with a constant 12v and the gwr wire is grounded the car wont start. The light in the dash is flashing as well.

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Can you explain this in greater detail? Specifically, "the gwr is grounded"

Ground while running...right now there is not power on either color of the starter wire coming from the alarm. Not the purple or the green. I have the purple going to the starter side and green to the key side and nothing. I think it is something small but I can't figure it out.

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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.

There is no power coming off of the alarm from the brain for the violet and green starter wires!!!

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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.

have you un-hooked the by-pass...? And it is still not cranking even w/ key...you checked power at the end of the harness that plugs into r/s? did you ever get tach/tach-less working?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Well I took out the Prestige APS 920 and put in the Viper 5901. He is putting the Prestige on his other car. I didn't unhook the bypass. I am sure i have the bypass hooked up properly now.  This is what is going on:  There is no power on the green and violet wire coming from the alarm when the r/s sequence starts up the "lock" symbol in the dash flashes (PKALL bypass not programmed yet). On the PKALL I have the red wire to 12 volts, and the black grounded. On the other harness, I have Purlple White to pin 4, and Yellow Blk to pin 3, blue white from alarm is going to ground while running (blue wire from the r/s plug) and Pink going to the pink ignition from the r/s plug). Do I need to completely take out the bypass for the starter wires to see 12volts during R/S? When I start the car normally and then use the r/s and remove the key, the alarm takes over and it stays running. An easy car has become a nightmare but I'm sure it is something simple that I'm overlooking since I'm not longer and installer working on cars everyday.  Thanks

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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.

I am having a similar issue with my F150 right now using my PKALL (minus the 10 sec shut down), but you meantioned you put PURPLE / white to pin 3 on your cars wiring harness for it's immobilizer.   Pin 3 is Transmit but PURPLE / white is Receive.   Pin 4 is RX and you have yellow/black (TX) hooked to it... Is that the correct way to wire it... or should it be RX to RX?  Does anybody know?

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-BiG J-

What year is your F-150...Will help narrow down what connection to use...???It could be connection...1...3...2...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Its a V8, 2000 F-150

Thanks

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-BiG J-

Read my other post, Topic:

pkall immobilizer bypass data wires

it has more details of where i am at... Thanks!

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-BiG J-

Anyone figure this out yet?  I have an identical problem with Canmax unit in 2009 F150 and Viper 5901.  Bypass acts like programmed via the led, but when remote starting, led blinks about 1/sec, security light in cluster blinks rapidly, all accessories come on, but no starter.  Tries 3 times then quits, no troublehooting codes, key fob responds with 'remote start error'.  I only have the D2D wires hooked up from the bypass unit to the 5901, and the RX/TX wires to the PATS harness.  According to instructions, nothing else needs to be wired....

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'09 F-150 Platinum