finding the right disarm wire
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113977
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 3:35 AM
Topic: finding the right disarm wire
Posted By: cpgoose
Subject: finding the right disarm wire
Date Posted: May 23, 2009 at 3:45 PM
Hi,
I'm installing a 1400xp Python remote starter in a 2009 Honda CRV. I'm almost done, and the car starts and everything, it just sets off the factory alarm when it does.
I hooked up the light green wire with the black stripe from the unit to the "brown" wire in the car (in the driver's kick), which I thought was the disarm wire, but apparently I have the wrong wire. Is there a way to check this wire the same way you can check other wires? Should it show a certain voltage when the car is armed compared to when it's disarmed?
Any help would be great!
1400xp install guide
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 23, 2009 at 4:52 PM
 | Alarm Disarm | | BROWN | | (-) | | AT DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH |
Audiovox shows it at the window switch. I know that on some Honda vehicles you have to run a wire into the door. It is not in the kick panel. Your car I do not know about. In order to test the wire, set your meter to DC volts, connect the red lead to a known good 12 volt source. Touch and hold the black lead to the wire in question, Unlock the door with the key or the factory key fob. If you have the correct wire, your meter should briefly read 12 volts.
Posted By: cpalmer
Date Posted: May 23, 2009 at 5:11 PM
Brown in the drivers door harness, you don't have to get in the door
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Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: May 23, 2009 at 9:37 PM
You will test it by turning the key In the drivers door key cylinder. When you turn the key to the unlock position, it will show ground.
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Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: May 24, 2009 at 10:32 AM
Awesome...thanks for the replies guys...I got it. Turns out I did have the right wire. The problem was that I had disconnected a few harnesses while installing, so when I plugged them back in I had to enter the code on the radio. Until then, the alarm kept going off when I started the car, even with the key.
Just one follow-up question. I was going to also hook up the "H2/2 factory rearm wire" so it will rearm the alarm when the car is remotely running. It says I need to use a relay in the same way that I used a relay for the "factory alarm disarm" setup. Can I use the same relay since I'm also sending a (-) signal here, too, or can I get away without using a relay since it's sending a (-) pulse? Or is this one of those situations where the pulse the remote starter is sending isn't strong enough?
Thanks again for the help!
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: May 24, 2009 at 10:54 AM
| Alarm Arm | | PINK | | (-) | | IN HARNESS IN DRIVER KICKPANEL TO DOOR |
NO you will not use same relay...I think you could just go wire to wire...but might as well do a relay to ensure signal is strong enough... ------------- M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: May 24, 2009 at 10:56 AM
Ok, roger that. I figured it couldn't hurt to double-check ;)
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: May 24, 2009 at 9:35 PM
Oh well, I tried but couldn't get the rearm to work. I used the pink wire like it said, but it wouldn't re-arm the factory alarm. Then I realized the wiring sheet I had said it was a light green wire. I tried that one and it still wouldn't arm the factory alarm. What's strange is when the car is armed and I use the 1400xp remote to unlock and lock the car, it disarms and arms it fine. If I use the factory fob to disarm/unlock it, though, and then use the 1400xp remote to lock/arm it, it won't arm it. It seems to "know" that I used the factory fob first :)
Posted By: cpalmer
Date Posted: May 24, 2009 at 10:37 PM
The arm wire in that car should be Lt. Green in the door harness with the disarm wire. It will go negative while turning the key in the door.
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Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: May 25, 2009 at 8:20 AM
how were you checking factory security...usually like a 15-45 second arm period...
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: May 25, 2009 at 9:33 AM
Ok, going by the 2nd post up top, I tested the "disarm" wire by putting the (+) lead from the DMM to a 12v+ source, and putting the (-) lead to the car's Brown wire that I thought was the disarm wire. It seemed to read a constant 12v, even when hitting the "disarm" button on the FOB.
There were, unfortunately, 2 lt. green wires. I metered them both and tried them both, and no luck. I guess what I'm confused about is what should the wire rest at? If I connect black to the wire in question and red to a 12v+ source, then won't the DMM read 12v+ as if I'm testing the 12v+ wire?
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: May 25, 2009 at 9:52 AM
I thought you had dis-arm working...? Remember you need 12v to check for ground...And ground to check 12v...yes if it rests at ground it would read 12v...what your looking for is a negative trigger ...which w/ red lead in 12v... when disarm - pulses... the meter will briefly show 12v...because you completed circuit...HOW ARE YOU CHECKING FACTORY SECURITY...? ARE YOU USING KEY IN DOOR OR JUST FOB TO DISARM...WHAT ABOUT ARMING...? ------------- M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: May 26, 2009 at 10:26 AM
Arg! Ok, I thought I had the dis-arm working, but apparently not. I had it hooked up and tested it so many times. I locked/armed the car with the factory fob, and then remotely started it without any problem. I did it a number of times in a row without any problems. But yesterday, after the car was sitting (armed) for about 5 hours, I came out and remotely started it and the alarm went off! I couldn't believe it.
So apparently I don't have the right disarm or arm wires.
I was using the FOB to test the factory security...I did not try it with the key in the door.
Ok, so if I hook up the DMM (+) wire to 12v+ and the DMM (-) wire to the car's light green wire, should it rest at 0.0v? Then when I turn the key to disarm/unlock the car, the DMM should read -12v for a brief moment? Is that right? Or will it not read 0.0 at rest?
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