Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2003 toyota matrix remote start issues

First off.... I did a quick search and did not find my answer. I did find an awesome wiring diagram for the Toyota Matrix, and I followed it.

I am installing a Code Alarm CA611 remote start / alarm / keyless entry system into my 2003 Toyota Matrix. Following the wiring diagram found in the forums here, I was able to match most of the wires with the instructions from the Code Alarm install manual.

Here is one problem, the remote start does not work at all. When sending the remote start signal, the parking lights flash 7 times and nothing else.

I did notice on the wiring diagram found here in the forums has the First Ignition as BLACK / YELLOW and Second Ignition as BLACK/ white. The Code Alarm website shows the opposite. I looked at the wiring diagram from Toyota and is confirms what I got from this forum. I guess the Code Alarm website is wrong???

I am not sure why the remote start is not working. It seemed like a simple connection of 6 easy-to-find wires at the ignition harness in the steering column and then its done.

Is there a factory alarm module in this car I don't know about? Is there something I am not seeing?

Thanks in advance for the help.

It sounds like you need to change from tach to tachless in the menu...Have you switched it in the programming yet...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

	Anti-Theft Type		TRANSPONDER
	Anti-Theft Descript		RF ACTIVATED SYS

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

The key sence wire NEEDS to be triggered during remote start...

blue/blk @ the ignition harness. trigger it with you ground while running negative out from the alarm/R/S

tommy and KTM are both right as usual, I have a question based on European knowledge, I haven't a clue what a Matrix is....didi you install a transponder by-pass? Without it the R/S will run for about 1/2 sec then pack up.

Thanks guys for the responses! I did not know that there was a transponder, so no, there is no bypass installed. I figured that since the car was old enough it would not have that kind of technology. The keys it came with (got car used) are regular keys I could have cut at Walmart.

So it looks like I connect the blue/black at the ignition to a ground during remote start wire from the alarm system and it should work?

There is an unused wire from the alarm and it happens to be blue/black.

From the manual: Active Output (-)300mA and provides a ground output when the remote start function is activated and remains active for 4 seconds after the remote start is shut down.

A Toyota Matrix is the hatchback version of a Corolla. Still 4 doors, but smaller.

tommy... wrote:

It sounds like you need to change from tach to tachless in the menu...Have you switched it in the programming yet...?

I see the default is TACH. I did not change it in the programming menu since I hooked the TACH wire to the lead off the module. Can I change it to Tachless and not have the extra wire running under the hood?

Yes you could un-hook...But if you have already hooked in to tach...Just do the tach learn sequence(tach is better then tachless)...What does 7 flashes say in the diagnostics page...?

As far as the key...It is an all metal key...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote:

Yes you could un-hook...But if you have already hooked in to tach...Just do the tach learn sequence(tach is better then tachless)...What does 7 flashes say in the diagnostics page...?

As far as the key...It is an all metal key...?

The key "looks" like a regular key however, it has a rubber grip around the head of the key where the toyota logo is. It doesn't appear to have any special stuff in it, not big enough. Its nothing fancy like my Ford Edge key that is programmed and costs $100 to replace...lol

I will do the tach learn sequence, thanks. As for the 7 Flashes, I am not sure what it means, the books don't have anything associated with 7 flashes in the troubleshooting pages. I need to research on their website I think.

Thanks for all the help!!

It is very rare for a 2003 Matrix to have a transponder key. Back when I installed, I remember the wiring charts listing it as a possibility, but I don't think I ever saw one that had one. At least from that year.

Reversing Ign 1 and Ign 2 on a system will not have any negative effect, unless they are not true ignition wires. The are both true ignition wires on a Toyota. Not your problem...

I have never installed Code Alarm but the issue you are describing sounds related to programming. I just downloaded the manual for the CA-610 on this site and it clearly says 7 flashes is "tach has not learned".

JWorm] wrote:

It is very rare for a 2003 Matrix to have a transponder key. Back when I installed, I remember the wiring charts listing it as a possibility, but I don't think I ever saw one that had one. At least from that year.

Reversing Ign 1 and Ign 2 on a system will not have any negative effect, unless they are not true ignition wires. The are both true ignition wires on a Toyota. Not your problem...

I have never installed Code Alarm but the issue you are describing sounds related to programming. I just downloaded the manual for the CA-610 on this site and it clearly says 7 flashes is "tach has not learned".

Thanks, I appreciate it! I will go to their website and look at the 610 manual.

He said on THIS website...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote:

He said on THIS website...

yeah, saw that, but I am not able to edit anything since I have few postings. I looked here in this website and did not find the manual that was referred to. My powers of search are weak.

While I am at it, here is another question: Keyless entry......

I have hooked up the wires as stated with power lock and power unlock in the passenger kick panel. I have hooked up the door trigger (-) in the driver kick panel also, however the LOCK does not work. UNLOCK works fine.

I was unable to find where to connect the door trigger (+) from the alarm. I think this might be the problem.

I found this post but there isn't a door trigger (+). Could this be what is missing to make the door LOCK function work?

I know it is a negative switching system, but where is the (+) door trigger?

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp

Choose category Car Alarm Manuals

Type in "Code Alarm"

You just need to connect to the (-) door trigger. You never use both the (+) and (-).

I'm sure there are many green wires in the passenger kick panel. How are you testing it to make sure you have the right wire?

JWorm] wrote:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp

Choose category Car Alarm Manuals

Type in "Code Alarm"

You just need to connect to the (-) door trigger. You never use both the (+) and (-).

I'm sure there are many green wires in the passenger kick panel. How are you testing it to make sure you have the right wire?

Thanks for that. I will look there. To test it I look for negative voltage when the key is in the passenger door and turned to lock/unlock. Since the unlock feature worked, I figured I found the right one. I will look again.

Back to the remote start:

I hooked up the blue/black key sense at the ignition to the blue/black (-) ground from the alarm box, and still no luck. I even changed the programming to tachless, and still no luck.

I am now getting 7 clicking noises on a relay in the dash, and now beeping is heard 7 times as well in the car (the same beeping when the key is inserted and the car is off) I am missing something :(

The 7 clicking noises is probably the relay in the alarm brain that powers the parking lights.

Could you list all the wires you have connected? You must have missed something important.

Make sure the red and RED / violet 12v constant wires are both hooked up.

If you connected a hood pin wire, disconnect it until you get the car to remote start to eliminate that as a potential problem.

I'm going out now. I'll check the post again tonight and see if you made any progress.

Ok, here is what I hooked up:

ALARM MODULE       CAR WIRES

Battery Power 1              --> White @ ignition harness
Battery Power 2              --> Black @ ignition harness
Starter Output--> Red @ ignition harness
Ignition 1 Output            --> BLACK / YELLOW @ ignition harness
HVAC Ouptut   --> Blue/Red @ ignition harness
Selectable Ignition 2 Output --> BLACK/ White @ ignition harness
Hood Pin      --> New hood pin installed
Brake Input / Shutdown       --> GREEN / WHITE @ brake pedal switch
Chassis Ground Source        --> New ground point
Active Output --> Blue/Black @ ignition harness (connected for key trigger)

I verified all connections and grounds.

Have you programmed the tach yet?

TACH PROGRAMMING:

The Remote Car Start will learn the tach rate of most vehicles single ignition coils, multiple coil packs, and or

single injector. To learn tach:

1. Turn the ignition key to the ON position.

3. Press and release the program switch 3 times..

4. Immediately turn the ignition key OFF.

5. Hold the program switch ON, then start the vehicle

6. When the unit senses the tach signal, the parking lights will begin to flash.

7. Release the program switch. The parking lights will turn on for 3 seconds to indicate that the tach signal is stored

and the unit is now out of the program mode.

TACH PROGRAMMING:
The Remote Car Start will learn the tach rate of most vehicles single ignition coils, multiple coil packs, and or
single injector. To learn tach:
1. Turn the ignition key to the ON position.
3. Press and release the program switch 3 times.
.
4. Immediately turn the ignition key OFF.
5. Hold the program switch ON, then start the vehicle using the ignition key.
6. When the unit senses the tach signal, the parking lights will begin to flash.
7. Release the program switch. The parking lights will turn on for 3 seconds to indicate that the tach signal is stored
and the unit is now out of the program mode.

7 Flashes ...Tach has NOT learned.

2 Pin Control Switch: (Red Connector)

The Black & BLACK/ White wires loaded in the two pin red connector enable the operation of the Remote Start

system. When the Black w/ White wire is grounded, the Remote Start system is operable. When this wire is open

from ground, the Remote Start is disabled. Route the twin lead Black & BLACK/ White wires from the control

switch to the Remote Start system and plug red two pin connector into the mating red two pin connector shell of

the control module.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Ok, progress has been made! After doing the TACH programming, the car now will try to start!! It turns over, however it does not start. I think it is not getting fuel.

As for the instructions about the 2 Pin Control Switch: (Red Connector) the CA-611 does not have this switch.

This is getting boring. If an auto, put selector in park, and with the key in the ignition, with the ignition off, loop from your supply to ign 1 wire. Then loop from there to the starter wire for 1 sec. If you've done everything right the car should start. If it does, remove key about 3 feet away, wait 5 mins. then repeat. If it doesn't start, you need a transponder by-pass.

Put key in ignition and r/s...Does it work...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote:

Put key in ignition and r/s...Does it work...?

no it does not start, still turns over, but does not start.

howie ll wrote:

This is getting boring.

Sorry! The TACH programming was my fault since it said to do that in the instructions. For some reason I skipped over it.

I bought this car used, so I am not sure if it has a factory engine kill system or not.

Now it sounds like an ignition wire is not getting powered up...The car cranks it just doesnt start...? Take your meter and meter both ignition wires during remote start...?

	Ignition 1		BLACK./WHITE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 2		BLACK / YELLOW		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Ok, so you've got tach programmed and it's trying to start......that's a good sign.

Perform the following test:

Turn on ignition key, turn on windshield wipers, heater, and radio.

Turn key back off.

Move key through all posistions from Off to Acc to Run to Start and back Run.......all the while observing the behavior of the above mentioned accessories. Also observe the dashboard warning lights and seat belt reminder chime.

Turn key off and remove.

Activate remote start, observe the accessories again, and find out which ones don't behave correctly.....post back with results.

Other thoughts:

Like JWorm said, you'd never use both the alarm's positive and negative door trigger wires. That car has only negative trigger, RED / yellow in the driver's running board, which catches all five doors including the rear hatch.

Also, both the lock and unlock wire are in the driver's kick....I've never had a need to go to the passenger's side. But if you find it in the passenger side that should work fine too.

I am getting voltage at both ignitions 1 and 2.

Here is what I have discovered: The Alarm manual says that the Heater/AC Output (ACCESSORY) "registers voltage when the key is turned to the ON (or RUN) position, but not the ACC (Accessory) Position. The voltage drops out when the key is turned to the START (or CRANK) position.

The Blue/Red (Accessory) @ the ignition harness HAS +12v when the key is on ACC, contrary to what the instruction manual says. Is this a problem?

I will run wiper/radio/heater test now.

Wiper/Radio/Heater test is all good. Everything runs fine by remote start control or by key control.

The car still doesn't start. My last post might have looked like the car was starting by remote start, but it still is not, just the wipers etc still ran.

I want to thank everyone for helping me with this install. I thought it was going to be easy. Hook this wire to that wire, and done. Well..... not so much.

Not only does the remote start not work, but the keyless entry does not work. Progress has been made on the remote start since I pulled my head out of my rear and followed instructions, but still the car does not want to start.

As for the keyless entry, I am going even more crazy. A wiring diagram here in this website said to use passenger wires in the passenger kick panel, but that didn't work. The Code Alarm website says to use wires in the driver kick panel, and that worked.......COMPLETELY OPPOSITE. Alarm arm would unlock the doors, alarm disarm would lock the doors. So I thought simply reverse the connections...... but alas, nothing worked... again.

Advise from the guys here lead me to two other wires in the driver kick panel, and still nothing worked.

I am about to take the system as-is to a professional and have them do it. I am obviously in way over my head.

Guys, I can't give up on this. It HAS to be something simple I am missing. If anyone is still out there willing to help, I am looking for it.

I think I need to work on one problem at a time. I am more interested in the keyless entry at this point.

Thanks!

Ok, for the keyless entry part:

In driver's kick panel, locate the bundle of wires coming in from the driver's door.

(Reach into the car's doorjamb, wiggle the rubber boot that carries the wires into the door, and you can see the same wires wiggling around in the inside of the car.)

Those wires terminate in two plugs. One of the plugs should have a green wire, and a blue / YELLOW wire, right next to each other.

TEST:
---The green wire should make a ground whenever you turn the KEY in the outside of the door to the lock position.
---The blue / YELLOW should make a ground when you turn the key to the unlock position.
NOTE: Again, do all testing while turning the key in the outside of the door. You do NOT want the wires that test while touching the switch on the door panel.

So, you've found your lock/unlock wires......

If I remember correctly, Code Alarm uses Green for their negative lock output, and Blue for their negative unlock output.

Should just be a matter of connecting Code green to Matrix green, and Code blue to Matrix blue / YELLOW.