Siren Wiring, Pic Included
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114211
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 10:41 PM
Topic: Siren Wiring, Pic Included
Posted By: runyun
Subject: Siren Wiring, Pic Included
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 5:44 AM
Basic alarm question, tried looking at the FAQ VEHICLE AND ALARM: 99 Tacoma/Clifford Cyber 2 Issue: Bought truck with siren removed. A sleeve with 4 wires are still where the siren used to be. (it's by the siren bracket) Colors are: RED / BLACK/ Violet/Green I checked the brain of the alarm and saw it said, Cyber 2. When I find the installation guide, it shows there are only 2 wires going to the siren
 Either way, when I put a ohm meter to the green wire, it shows a - pulse whenever I arm/disarm or hit the panic feature. I wire up the black wire from the siren to the green wire.However, it doesn't seem to set the siren off. Is it not getting enough power? Am I supposed to wire in a relay? (which seems odd) I have two new sirens.. and backup siren from DEI (4 wire) and standard DEI 2 wire siren. (I can rule out the siren isn't the problem) The installation guide clearly states a yellow wire goes to the siren. However, I can't see one in the sleeve. Should I just pull the brain, find the yellow wire, and route that wire directly to the siren?
Replies:
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 7:40 AM
If there are four wires there, there's a good chance it had a backup battery siren. I've only installed one of those, and I'm not sure that the colors are consistent from brand to brand.
I've never installed a Cyber 2, and all the alarms I've worked with only have had a positive siren outpout, which would be connected to a typical siren's red wire, and then the installer would connect the siren's black wire straight to chassis ground.
But anyway.....from that diagram, it would look like, yes, the yellow wire from the alarm should go to the black wire on the siren.
And then it looks like the red wire from the Clifford should be putting out 12 volts constant, which would go to the red wire on the siren.
If the Clifford's red wire has somehow stopped putting out constant power, or you can't find it somehow, it would seem that just connecting the siren's red wire to constant power should work..........try it temporarily by holding or jamming the siren's red wire to the positive battery terminal under the hood, and see if that makes it work.
If that does make it work, connect the siren's red wire permanently to constant power (underhood or inside the cabin, whichever you want), through a small fuse, say 5 amps or so.
Posted By: runyun
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 8:00 AM
Thanks for the reply... yes, it's a backup battery siren (which honestly, i could care less if it had that or not) The red wire in the sleeve does have a constant (+) going through it. That's not the problem.. it's trying to figure out the proper (-) trigger: 1. Why is there 4 wires coming out of the sleeve of my truck when the diagram shows there should only be 2 wires (RED / black) 2. The diagram shows yellow wire from the brain goes to the black wire to the siren. 1st, there is no yellow wire in the sleeve. The only wire with a pulse is the green wire coming out of the sleeve. Yet, when I hook up the green wire from the sleeve to the black on the siren... no sound. (of course, the red wire from the siren is grounded to the positive battery) Should I just find a yellow wire from the brain, and directly hard wire that to the black wire to the siren? (my next plan of action tonight) Just doesn't make sense. I'm pretty good with wiring.. just never installed an alarm so don't know the exact functionality of the parts.
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 8:58 AM
As it is wired right now w/ constant 12v...When you touch the black lead to ground(any metal in car) the siren sounds...You said you were checking w/ the ohm setting...change to voltage...Put red lead to + battery terminal and put black lead on suspected trigger wire...Press lock/unlock...Whats the voltage on meter...? Run new leads from inside of car, from brain ,and just run on outside of car to siren...Will eliminate a wire problem for trouble shooting...Also go right to brain put red lead in pin + siren wire on alarm...Black lead on - siren wire pin on alarm...Make sure everything is okay there. Flashing 12v...?
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: runyun
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 10:32 AM
sorry, should have clarified. I used an OHM meter.. set on Voltage. When I check'd the voltage, it read around 0.30-0.50 volts. (pretty weak if you ask me.. but then again, not sure if thats the norm with alarms) I was planning to just run wire from (-) yellow from brain directly to siren (my next plan of action after work today) I just hope that yellow wire is there since the online wiring diagram doesn't match my actual wires in my truck. (ie, 4 wires in the sleeve in my truck.. but the diagram states there should only be two wires) As far as putting a lead directly into the brain, there's a (+) siren wire AND (-) siren wire? I'll go check again Thanks again for the responses guys. I do appreciate it and will post if/when I can get this resolved with a HUGE thank you.
Posted By: runyun
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 10:34 AM
To clarify ^ I initially did put the red lead directly to the battery, I then put the black lead on the (-) trigger -- it read 0.30-0.50 volts everytime I pressed arm/disarm
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 11:05 AM
For some Clirification, early Clifford product fed a constant to the red and the alrm put a neg signal on the yellow. Thus negative trigger, thus the yellow on your alarm CPU should go to neg when the alarm is triggered. Check that first. On later Cliffords, G4 on, they used a 4 wire battery back-up of yellow, red, black and green BUT the yellow doesn't have the same function it's a data wire. In theory any normal (i.e. not speaker) should work with a constant 12v+ feed to red and its black to the alarm's yellow, thus the problem might be with the alarm's sirden driving transistor.
Posted By: runyun
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 4:17 PM
UPDATE:
Pulled the brain and wired it directly to the yellow. My voltmeter shows an erratic 0.30-1.00 volts. Think my brain unit is not good at this point.
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: June 04, 2009 at 9:59 PM
How are you checking output...Red lead to 12v...Black lead to yellow in sleeve...Make sure battery is good in meter...Will give you crazy reading if it is low...I always touch the black lead to a known ground source during my testing of negative trigger/grounds several times to verify good connection for meter...Obsessive/compulsive disorder...Set to direct current on meter?
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: runyun
Date Posted: June 05, 2009 at 12:45 PM
tommy... wrote:
How are you checking output...Red lead to 12v...Black lead to yellow in sleeve...Make sure battery is good in meter...Will give you crazy reading if it is low...I always touch the black lead to a known ground source during my testing of negative trigger/grounds several times to verify good connection for meter...Obsessive/compulsive disorder...Set to direct current on meter?
Unfortunately, as stated in the first post, there is no YELLOW wire in the sleeve. Only: RED / BLACK/ Violet/Green Yesterday, I went home and located the alarm brain and tapped into the yellow wire there.. nothing but 0.3 to 0.5 volts Also, after another disappointing effort, I went and did a little more research. They said the backup alarms use (+)(-) and 2 wire data signals. True? Instead of using the yellow wire from the brain, there is supposed to be a data plug on the bottom of the brain. Gonna try that today. What a beating. I should jus take it to an alarm shop and be done with it.
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: June 05, 2009 at 8:26 PM
And on all the wires in sleeve,whatever color...You have metered all of them...? During the erratic voltage ,you are pressing lock/unlock...Or it is always that voltage...? Now that you have brain out...Go ahead and start testing each wire...See if you get output...Start w/ positive...then check for negative...Pressing lock and unlock...Can you make alarm go off(Shock sensor...door trigger etc...) Then test each wire and see if you can find a positive or negative output...Or just wait to see if it is some kind of Data wires...Sorry dude...never touched one of those... And you are using a different siren then the one that comes w/ alarm...?
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
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