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I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra GXE with a 1.8 and AT. I am going to attempt to install a Viper 350HV alarm. I think I have most of it figured out. I got a wire chart here and it says "Nissan's transponder anti-theft system:requires 791 bypass module and extra ignition key"

Is this required no matter what? Not real sure about this one. My other question concerns the door locks. All the Viper instructions say is to refer to Doc 1041. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this for me. I can't seem to find doc 1041. That is all for now. Thanks, Zak.

None of those parts are required, they would only be used with a remote start. Second question, if this vehicle is the same as the UK Almeira, there's a control box adjacent to the steering column, its left side here, probably your right betwen column and centre console, where you can pick-up virtually everything including door, trunk, and hood contacts plus neg lock/unlock triggers. I'll look at 1041 and see if it says anything different. Basicly you ignore the following connections:- tach, parking brake or reverse.

I just looked at 1041, it's simply a guide to different locking systems. On your alarm you will have green and blue wires from a white three way plug. Green to vehicle lock and blue to unlock...BUT to be on the safe side, use 1N4004 diodes (from Radio Shack etc) bands towards the alarm in line on those leads. There's a technical circuit protection isue here, better to be safe than sorry.

thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

Thanks, Zak

Ok, I have another question. i did pick up a few diodes today. Can I use my cheap solder iron, or should I use a electronic iron for heat control? Not sure if to much heat can hurt them. All so, should I insulate them with somthing like heat shrink, or use a < color=#cc0000 >Pre-Punched IC-Spacing Perfboard https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productid=2102863 ? Not installing the alarm till next week, just trying to get prepared.

Thanks, Zak

BTW...what electronic iron do you recommend. Been wanting to buy one anyway.

Reg solder and heatshrink, 2.5mm (1/10" and up) is normal. I use a Weller pencil (butane) iron in the field and a Weller gun for "inside" work.

quick tip on this vehicle you can pick up everything you need behind the instrument cluster except the starter kill, checkin the vehicle wiring info section of this site i posted info on the wiring recently, it's labeled under 2006 sentra though, it's the same wiring it hasn't changed since. cheers.

Make sure you test all your wires with a DMM before you start connecting wires. Installing the Viper 350HV in that nissan is an excellent "starter" install and you will gain a lot of info and confidence when you're finished. DO NOT Be afraid to ask us questions. If you do get stuck we can get you on the right track. "The only stupid question is the one not asked"

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..

, door lock triggers are negative going, as howie said at the fusebok adjacent to the steering, to the bottom of it without removing the box, there runs the driver door harness, the colour wires are

lock- gray (thin gauge)

purple- unlock (thin gauge) they meter four volts or so at rest and go to ground or zero volts during lock and unlock

the actuator wires you can pick up in the driver floor panel

WHITE/ red- lock (thick gauge)

BLACK/ red- unlock

also in the floor panel you can pick up the door contacts- RED / white (light gauge)

trunk contact- RED / black (light gauge

hazards- GREEN/ black and GREEN/ YELLOW

brake- GREEN/ red

behind the fuse box you can pick up ignition BLACK/ red

and a constant either thick gauge red

also you can use the relay to interrupt ignition on that vehicle this also prevents the starter from cranking and you can also program your vrs feature on so you would have the car-jacking system fuctional. kills two birds with one stone effectively. also i know that i'm gonna be criticised for telling you to interrupt igntion but i have been doing it for years and have never yet had a comeback where that dei relay failed NEVER. cheers.

I've done ignition interrupt a few times. Mainly on manual vehicles...it'll turn forever but won't ever crank! No comebacks either! No grief from me!

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..

Fine re ignition for you two who I assume know all about soldering....see where I'm going here? I actually thought and t&t can poss help me here that this vehicle was the same as the UK Almeira, that vehicle has a body control module to the left of the steering column, i.e. to the right on l/h/d models which has everything you need except ign (OK) or starter cut. no need to drop the inst panel or go to the kickwell, this model was replaced by a vehicle you call the Rogue, we call the Quashquai....honestly, I think it's because they sell so well, they should have called it the cash-cow!

my almeras howie have a fuse and relay panel to the right of the steering, and they are right hand drive, behind there are all connections including ignition, they haven't replaced the almeras locally with any new vehicle, there are just so many minor different details that you get confused with the different body specs, the new gen nissans i find are waaay to extravagant, the new march, reminiscent of a volkswagon bettle, the new bluebirds are too executive since it's last generation, also that bluebird,the new cefiro, teana, and altima are basically the same cars except for minor differences in body style and design, even the new skyline looks executive like it's lost it's sporty legacy, what a pity!

t&t, I think you're getting Jap domestic models, the Bluebird, unless it's a re-badged Primera hasn't been on sale here sinces the late 80s. We have the Note (rebadged Renault Modus), the Micra, the Quashquai, the Primera, the Skyline, Z, Xtrack and Patrol, Small van is a rebadged Ren Kangoo (known as the can't or won't go or PITA). Larger vans are rebadged Renaults, actually manufactured in Luton by Vauxhall, at least until next year when someone else will own Euro GM.

Hi again. Back with a few questions. First I would like to thanks all the responses, they all help very much. I have made some progress. Got the siren mounted, and I think all the wiring figured out and where to tap in at (going to meter it tonight just to make sure). Question #1...Do I secure the brain? Question #2...Is it dumb to put the brain under the driver seat on top of the carpet? It is a hard spot to get to with the seat it, all the wiring can be ran under the carpet. Just curious. Thanks again,

Zak

I forgot to add a question. Do I have to use the valet switch, or is that optional?

Question 1) Yes secure the brain, cable ties or double sided tape, keep it behind the lower dash or centre console, if you MUST go under the seat, go under the carpet, at least it's concealed. 2) Yes to the valet switch, you need it for 2 purposes. a) To programme if neccessary and b) More importantly, as a manual over ride if the remotes fail. You don't have to mount it, maybe run it into the glove box or the fuse box area.

well i think I hit problem 1. I got the 12v constant hooked up, ingnition hooked up, it grounded, the siren wired and the door locks wired. I still have the triggers, domelight supervision, and the parking lights to do.

The problem is the locks work great, but the dome light stays on as long as the doors are unlocked, and with the car running the locks will not remain locked. I can control the dome light with the door lock by locking/unlocking in manually through the window.

I don't want to go any further untill I know what is wrong.

it turns off after a minute I found out. but I can still control it with the driver lock (only the driver lock), is this a problem?

no this is not a problem, the car just functions this way, i don't think you would need to do dome supervision with this car as the dome light will turn on when the doors are unlocked and turns off when they are locked.

Yeah, I was think I won't have to do the dome. thanks for the reply.

ok, kinda lost on the trigger wires. On the brain I have Green (-) and Violet (+). It says at the SECU to use the red (-) and RED / white (-). red is the driver side and the RED / white is the passenger negitives. I'm kinda lost on where Green and Violet hook up? Any good explination on this for me?

You will not use the violet wire at all. You will need to get a couple of diodes. These will go to the seperate door triggers, and then to the green door trigger of the alarm.

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no diodes needed here, there is a RED / white wire in the driver's floor loom that "sees" all doors. there is also a thin gauge RED / black that is the trunk trigger.

I have the trunk trigger already wired up. I will look for the door triggers at the floor.

I got it all hooked up and working, thanks very much for your help. It would have taken forever without your tech support.

BTW. the door trigger wire in the floor loom was red with 2 silver dots.

Zak

03 sentra alarm