doorlock problems on viper 560xv
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114647
Printed Date: May 17, 2024 at 10:35 PM
Topic: doorlock problems on viper 560xv
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Subject: doorlock problems on viper 560xv
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 6:07 PM
I have a 1986 Chevy C-10 with a Viper 560XV alarm. The remote start is disactivated because its carbed. I recently purchased a set of DEI 524T door lock actuators so I can add the power lock feature to use with the alarm (the truck has power NOTHING). The alarm has a the blue and green door locks wires that plugs right into the brain. The actuators are fully mounted. When I wired the actuators to the door lock wires I get several pulses and the door lock actuators will not function correctly. The actuators go up and down a few times when the lock button is pressed. I get nothing on the unlock. I used relays and wired them like the diagram on this website for added actuators and that still did not fix the problem. Could the alarm be the problem? According to the information provided by the alarm, they are sending out positive triggers, my door lock actuators are two-wire. Its been a while since I have touched a car but I was an installer many years ago and never had this problem. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Replies:
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 6:25 PM
did you use the wiring diagram marked actuators/reverse polarity? -------------
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 6:38 PM
You are going straight from the alarm to the actuators...??(not going to work) As sound asked...Did you use relays...? Is there going to be switches installed on the door...Or just using the remotes...?
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 7:53 PM
I did use relays but the ones I have are 4 prong, the ones on this website say to use a 5 prong. I plan to eventually add a switch, and thinking about it as I type, I should just go ahead and add it now.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 7:55 PM
yeah, you definitely need spdt relays not the spst relays you are using now.
adding a switch shouldnt be hard either you just need a rocker switch that can send a ground through the same lock/unlock wires as your alarm. remember to diode isolate them from the alarm wires. diodes go on the lock/unlock wires coming from the alarm and the stripe goes towards the alarm
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Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: June 26, 2009 at 12:20 AM
thanks for the info, 87a isn't used in the reverse polarity diagram for the door locks so would my relays work? Just to verify that is the relay setup I have to use (4-relay reverse polarity)? Its been such a long time since I fiddled with all this stuff...
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: June 26, 2009 at 1:14 PM
yes 87a is used for that reverse polarity diagram, you would need two single pole double throw relays.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 26, 2009 at 5:54 PM
downsouthplaya wrote:
thanks for the info, 87a isn't used in the reverse polarity diagram for the door locks so would my relays work? Just to verify that is the relay setup I have to use (4-relay reverse polarity)?
Its been such a long time since I fiddled with all this stuff...
no, not the 4 relay diagram, its the one labeled ACTUATORS/REVERSE POLARITY. its the 4th one down. 87a will be grounded. -------------
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: June 26, 2009 at 6:41 PM
 ------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: June 30, 2009 at 1:33 PM
I went out an purchased that STDP relays and wired like instructed in the diagram. The door locks still do not work with the alarm.
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: June 30, 2009 at 4:36 PM
If you think the alarm is at fault then here's a simple test, on the diagram i gave you above where the alarm's lock and unlock inputs are labelled, in your truck, mometarily ground these wires one at a time if the actuators move them your alarm is at fault (which i highly doubt but anyway), if they don't your problem lies elsewhere. Do you have a meter?
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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: June 30, 2009 at 4:48 PM
yes I have a meter. I don't think the alarm is the problem because if it were it wouldn't work at all (my guess). This is bizarre...i'm 100% sure I installed the alarm correctly, with the remote start inoperable its just starter kill, constant 12v, accessory (switch), parking lights and the door triggers...very simple alarm, very simple install...
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: June 30, 2009 at 6:27 PM
UPDATE: I went into the garage and looked at the relay, I tightsed down some of the connectors and the lock function works and I here the click in the relay. However, the unlock does not work and there is no clock at the ray. I did T&T's test and the door locks did not work at all. Any suggestions?
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 6:40 AM
take your meter and verify all the pins at the relays are recieving the proper signals!
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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 11:12 AM
if one relay works and the other doesn't then you must have it wired wrong. both relays should be wired exactly the same with one relay activated by the lock wire and the other activated by the unlock wire. if the relay has an internal diode then you might need to switch the wires to pin 85 and 86 on the relay that wont click.
normally it doesn't matter the way you supply power to 85 and 86 because if either one has power and ground it will activate regardless. but if you bought negative spike relays, and wired them exactly like the diagram it would cause one side to not work.
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Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 4:59 PM
niether the relay or alarm were wired wrong. The alarm is defective. The unlock wire didn't throw a signal at all. I ended up tearing the Viper560XV out and replacing it with a sidewinder 3000-something, a viper product. I went with a simple alarm with a starter kill and doorlocks due to my truck being carbed with a big motor. New alarm is installed and doorlocks work as they should. First time I have ever seen a defective Viper product.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 7:35 PM
awesome.
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Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: August 14, 2009 at 10:59 AM
soundnsecurity wrote:
yeah, you definitely need spdt relays not the spst relays you are using now.
adding a switch shouldnt be hard either you just need a rocker switch that can send a ground through the same lock/unlock wires as your alarm. remember to diode isolate them from the alarm wires. diodes go on the lock/unlock wires coming from the alarm and the stripe goes towards the alarm
I bought the standard GM lock/unlock switches. I currently have the reverse polarity relays wired in and they work great. To install these switch and make them function I just need to diode the lock/unlock wires going into the alarm output or to the actuators?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 14, 2009 at 12:19 PM
You actually blew the unlock signal wire from the Viper when you first wired it. You should have made green the lock trigger and blue the unlock THEN placed diodes along them to protect the alarm side from relay onrush. The relay backfeed would have blown the very fragile circuitry in the alarm, it's only a chip based TTL output. you should have purchased a 451, it would have saved you a lot of trouible, then read the 561R post here, see where Chris Luongo explains how to wire a control switch.
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: August 14, 2009 at 5:53 PM
it depends on how the switch you purchased functions! how many wires does the switch have! P.S With all due respect to the playa, i'm with howard on you frying that output of the lock circuit! i say this because i've installed dei units for about four years and more now and of all the units i have installed i have never had a blown lock output! It doesn't mean it doesn't happen, but the odds are less than likely!
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: August 14, 2009 at 6:45 PM
the switch has a lock, unlock and ground... I know I may have been the cause of the alarm failing. Its been around 8 years or so since I last touched a car. I use to install for the roadshop in circuit city back in its prime. Relays and door locks were not my expertise. I have learned from my mistake and it may be another 8 years or so since I touch another car! (lol)
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: August 14, 2009 at 7:17 PM
well just ground the negative wire and the other two go to their respective places on the relays with diodes on them, so you initial mistake doesn't recur! Cheers!
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: August 21, 2009 at 1:25 PM
I have everything I need (diodes are not easy to find around here) and just about ready to install everything. I dont want any mishaps... The factory GM switches have a lock, ground and unlock prong I have to wire into. The ground goes to ground and I know the door lock wires are dioded with the striped towards the alarm. After looking over my relays I believe i'm wiring the lock and unlock wires into the alarm outputs on the relay...just wanted to get expert opinions if my wiring would be correct.
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: August 21, 2009 at 4:08 PM
That's correct!
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: November 02, 2009 at 9:28 AM
I know its been a while but I still can't get these added door locks to work! Any help would be appreciated!
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: November 03, 2009 at 3:32 PM
Posted By: downsouthplaya
Date Posted: November 03, 2009 at 3:41 PM
The doorlocks work with the alarm great, just cant get them to work with the switches like an original power doorlock truck. I grounded the ground and sent the lock and unlock to the outputs on the relay like instructed, but they still dont work. I been busy at work and havent had a chance to fiddle with the truck much or come on here to ask. Any help would be much appreciated.
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: November 03, 2009 at 3:59 PM
Have you verified with a meter that the terminals are applying ground when the switch is depressed? Have you dioded both inputs to the relays?
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