Kind of a long thread so thank you for your time...
So here's the deal, I installed the AVOX aps997a remote start unit with the FLCAN module flashed for this vehicle and bypass is complete. I have it hooked up in Tach mode and the tach is learned as i get the confirmation from the alarm. The problem i am having is that when i remote start it, the very first crank doesn't finish...it quits right as it gets the signal to turn. These alarms will try three times to start before it quits for good, and without fail it will start the second time it tries, EVERYTIME, without me having to manually try again with the remote. I do have the second ignition hooked up, but the pink / YELLOW tested as accessory not ignition but i hooked it up anyways. Could that be my problem? Also, his battery is constantly dying, so a new battery might fix the situation, but wanted other input.
I thought it might be the tach signal so I tried another tach wire, relearned TACH and again the same result....dies on first try and starts the second time. I also tried to do voltage sense and thats where it starts to get a little weird. When I program it to voltage sense, (recheck that it's programmed by the chirps) and try to remote start it, the system tells me that the tach is not learned. Why would it tell me that if its in volt/sense mode?
In the manual it shows a "DBI tach" setting, but there's no explanation of what that is. I tried it there and it starts, but dies about a second after. In the diagnostics part of the remote start menu....action nine...I get 3 and 4 chirp settings but nothing in the manual shows me those options and what they would do. same goes with action 14....i get a 3rd option and no explanation of that setting in the manual either.
If anybody has ideas about what it could be and what those other options are please let me know. I don't have the car with me, but was trying to get some options to try to get it to work properly.
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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..
Anybody have any ideas....? Chris Luongo.....ChrisWallace187...?
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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..
dbi tach stands for data bus interface tach, meaning if you used the dbi cable instead of the 3 wire (power, ground, and gwr) to connect the flcan to the avox main box, you would select that for the databuss tach input and program as if you had run the actual wire. I dont know of any fords or mazdas that have databus tach signal though, so you will not have any luck using it there. When the vehicle dies the first go round, does the security light behave exactly as it does with the key? May be going into theft mode or something similar. Just tossing out ideas
Cool thanks....I'll try hooking up the tach there and hopefully it'll work. I do have the databus connection to the alarm brain so it's worth a shot. I did look for the theft light but didn't see anything but i'll check again when he comes back. this is the only thing holding the install from being "completely" done...but it does start otherwise on the second turn everytime, but i'd like to get to the root of this problem and have it start the first time.
Any idea why it won't work in volt/sense mode, and why it says that tach isn't learned when it's programmed for volt/sense?
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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..
Well voltage sense must be programmed the same way as the tach is programmed. Key on, program button 3x key off hold program and then start. Hold program button for 15 seconds release wait 5 seconds and turn key off. I think you may have misread however. No ford or mazda that i am aware of has data tach available.
just tossing out more ideas to try, i remember on another mazda i did recently i ran into the rf collision problem, where you must cut one of the wires rx or tx i cant recall, did you follow that guide or a normal ford pats install? Some of those things can pick up random rf signals inside the car while running and cause problems.
One other thing to try since it fails on the 1st attempt, try holding the key backwards in the key cylinder. Metal part should be sticking out 180* where it normally would be inside the cylinder, then remote start. (while the bypass is disabled)
Yup... that I did. long day....thanks again for the info! let you know when I get the car back in here!
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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..