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constant 12v for relays

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114802
Printed Date: May 10, 2025 at 2:05 AM


Topic: constant 12v for relays

Posted By: unexpected62
Subject: constant 12v for relays
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 1:48 AM

I am doing my first (and only!) alarm install right now in my 2000 Acura Integra LS. I am confused on wiring up certain relays, for example dome light supervision and parking light flash. On this site it shows that some pins on the relay call for constant 12V. Is this just grabbed at the 12V source that is going into the alarm brain? So, in other words, I have a wire with constant 12v that I keep grabbing from for whatever relays and it also powers the alarm brain? Is this safe?



Replies:

Posted By: unexpected62
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 1:49 AM
My fault for not including it before..... but I am installing a DEI Clifford 50.5x. I am not connecting remote start.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 2:42 AM
It's safer to power them from a separate source unless your original power supply is heavy duty such as the battery or one of the fuse box main supplies. Note on Hondas I don't include the ignition feed because this is also fused at 50amps. If you use one of the supplies I mentioned you can use the same source but please separately fuse them. With regards to constant supply to relay, remember it will only be latched (i.e. "switched on") and drawing power whilst that function is being used. If a normal relay was permanently latched I gurantee a flat battery within 18 hours, so follow the instructions carefully and if there is anything you aren't sure about, please ask.




Posted By: unexpected62
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 10:42 AM
After I posted I started to realize that indeed you are correct, the domelight, parking light flash, and rest of the alarm would never all draw power at the exact same time, which would reduce the draw. How can I know fuse size for safety? For example, this site says "Fused 12V" for the parking light flash..... what should I throw in line?





Posted By: unexpected62
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 10:50 AM
Oh, and I am also using the constant 12v from the under dash fusebox.




Posted By: unexpected62
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 11:04 AM
I'm sorry for the triple post..... rookie members can't edit. :-)

I am leaning towards just 1A fuses at domelight and parklight light relays, is this correct?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 11:45 AM
Yes to 1amp, 15amps for parking lights.




Posted By: tweak master
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 2:59 PM
The Clifford parking light circuit gets its power through the 15a fuse on the small red main power wire of the "brain". It has a white output wire with a 10a fuse in it to power the parking lights. The relay is built in so you will not need to add a relay to control the parking lights. There is a jumper on the side of the brain that determines if the output is neg or pos. You do not need to connect any of the large wires on the satellite relay pack, or even plug in the ribbon cable if you are not remote starting the truck. The dome supervision wire is BLACK/ white and needs to trigger a relay to provide a ground to the lt.GREEN/ red door trigger in the drivers kick panel. The pos side of the relay coil can be connected to the main power wire of the alarm on the brain side of the fuse. Powering a relay off this fuse is fine





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