2009 altima, viper 5701
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=115262
Printed Date: April 18, 2024 at 10:13 PM
Topic: 2009 altima, viper 5701
Posted By: mike253
Subject: 2009 altima, viper 5701
Date Posted: July 23, 2009 at 10:46 PM
Recently *attempted* to get a 5701 installed in my 2009 Altima. I've been back twice (total of 14 hours they've had my car) and the installed can't get the remote start working. He cannot find the starter wire.. Here are the details: 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5s, non-Bose factory stereo CVT transmission DLPK bypass module A wiring diagram would be great (or at least which wires to grab and where to grab them for the starter) I really don't want to have to go back a fourth time.. getting old quick. Thanks for the help!
Replies:
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: July 23, 2009 at 11:14 PM
These cars are complex, but well documented both in the install guides and online. And it's the same vehicle in its third model year.....if your installer still hasn't figured these cars out, I'd be nervous.
I haven't used a DLPK, but it appears to be simply a rebadged Fortin CAN-SL2i, one of the most popular modules used on these cars.
The first Google hit I got for "dlpk" brought me to the bypasskit.com site, and then from there you can click for install manuals:
https://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=1005
Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: July 23, 2009 at 11:19 PM
https://www.idatalink.com/installguide.php
look on page 6 to wire up the starter wire. the starter wire isn't its typical location, it's actually under the hood.
it would help if you let your installer know about this site. once an installer gets frustrated and tinkering here and there, that's when your car gets screwed up.
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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: mike253
Date Posted: July 23, 2009 at 11:27 PM
Chris, The quick reply is greatly appreciated! Installer claimed that the suggested start wires did not test (-) during the ignition process, I'm unsure if he actually tried the connections with the unit or just hit them with a meter. He mentioned needing 2 start wires more than once, I'm going to give this one more shot before I cut my losses and go to another dealer.. any suggestions to make the final attempt a successful one?
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: July 24, 2009 at 11:10 AM
They should test + not negative during start. We just got the DLPK in a couple weeks ago, but have not had a chance to use it yet. It looks pretty straight forward though.
If I remember right, on Nissan's with this bypass you have to isolate the security light, but i don't think that will prevent it from firing.
Oh nvm I found the manual, this has pictures and step by step process. If he can't figure it out with this, he's probably inexperienced.
https://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=1005
If he has questions he should give directed electronics a call. But prepare to wait on hold for about half an hour.
Posted By: robertsc
Date Posted: July 24, 2009 at 4:45 PM
I would run while you getting good ,then find a place that has a good reputation.
Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: July 25, 2009 at 11:17 AM
I would find another shop. This is a 2-3 hour vehicle for a slower installer. It is documented VERY WELL. If your shop spent 14 hours and they still dont know what to do... like suggested.... RUN, dont walk to another shop.
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: July 25, 2009 at 6:17 PM
Mark Mizenko wrote:
I would find another shop. This is a 2-3 hour vehicle for a slower installer. It is documented VERY WELL. If your shop spent 14 hours and they still dont know what to do... like suggested.... RUN, dont walk to another shop.
Depends on if you use t-taps or not. This would be an average car. Quality not quantity.
Posted By: Mark Mizenko
Date Posted: July 27, 2009 at 3:00 PM
Big no on the T-Taps.
Posted By: mike swanson
Date Posted: July 27, 2009 at 5:24 PM
Give the shop a chance to fix it. You guys cant say you have never had a prob like this b4.
The tech could be very good, but has a bad bypass or main unit or cold solder.
Make sure he uses the Can sl2 or newer
off the top of my head
The start wire is + and is under the hood on driver side by fuse block
Is this a PUSH START?
We have done many push starts and had 1 car that wouldnt start. We found that the - out while run was not working.Could be a bad unit
Make sure he test the - while run to start the car.
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: July 27, 2009 at 10:21 PM
Mark Mizenko wrote:
Big no on the T-Taps.
Exactly... I would never use T-taps but install time would be down to 1 hour for this if I did.
In fact it is pretty much a curse word in our bay. If a customer mentions T-taps, we pretty much all look at them and glare.
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