concept 300 not locking doors
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=115703
Printed Date: May 15, 2025 at 6:33 PM
Topic: concept 300 not locking doors
Posted By: _dan_
Subject: concept 300 not locking doors
Date Posted: August 17, 2009 at 4:58 PM
Hi, I'm new to this site so I'll begin by saying hello all!
I'm hoping someone can help me. I did a search through the existing posts but couldn't find anything specific to my problem.
I've an old TVR which has just been resurrected after 4 years off the road! A couple of years before that I had a Clifford Concept 300 fitted. It used to remotely lock the doors and also pop the boot.
The car already has the necessary solenoids and central locking motors fitted, and it did work in the past, but something has changed over the years of neglect. The alarm itself still works perfectly, as in proximity sensor, siren and immobiliser. It seems like the control unit has forgot that it has the ability to lock doors and pop the boot. I can still lock the doors and open the boot using the factory fitted buttons in the inside of the car, but no joy when using the fob/alarm.
Does anyone have any ideas?
p.s. the car has no external means of locking the doors (no key locks!) so I'm eager to get it sorted as the car is sitting outside unlocked!
Cheers, Dan.
Replies:
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: August 17, 2009 at 5:32 PM
You would have to check with your meter if the alarm is outputting, normally it would be a flip flop output, but i am not certain of this since i don't do clifford. Take a meter to the wires and test for both positive and negative voltage and post back what you find. Since you say you have interior controls i'm assuming a negative trigger setup, can you verify this for me by testing at the back of your controls, ground the black lead of your meter and probe the wires, the should have some sort of voltage at rest and go to a ground (or zero volts) when the switch is depressed in one direction, you should find two wires like this.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 18, 2009 at 2:03 AM
I agree with t&t, check the GREEN/ grey lock and ORANGE / grey unlock wires coming from the alarm, they will either give a pos or a neg on arm and disarm depending on whether the unit was programmed for pos or neg output originally. These outputs are transistor driven and this unit can fail, if so you will notice your aux outputs, grey/violet and grey/blue also don't work.
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: August 18, 2009 at 4:54 PM
I don't deal with clifforf alot howard but i did some servicing today on that same model he's having the problem with, turns out that the lock output failed! Also one quirk about clifford that i dislike is that with two chirps it's armed and one chirp it's disarmed, personally i think one chirp for arming and two or more depending on tamper alert makes alot more sense!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 18, 2009 at 5:10 PM
Thats what I meant about the lock output transistor failing, you have to test the lock outputs to see if I was right, N.B. original Cliffords always had arm x 2 chirps and disarm x 1 chirp. When DEI took over some years ago they wanted to make them the other way around but all the Clifford dealers here and most in the US said no way, that's the reason they are still "opposite" to the likes of young puppies like yourself, us grandpas prefer the older way.
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: August 18, 2009 at 5:26 PM
Ok grandpa! LOL!  .
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