door actuator
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=115749
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 4:43 PM
Topic: door actuator
Posted By: micrors4racer
Subject: door actuator
Date Posted: August 18, 2009 at 10:37 PM
I have a 1985 AE86 Corolla and I'm planning on installing door lock actuators and an alarm. I was wondering what I needed to hook up the solenoids to the alarm.
I am thinking of getting these motors
https://cgi./2-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-TOYOTA-COROLLA-CAMRY-AE86_W0QQitemZ400067969855QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d25e8c33f&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
What else would I need? And where would I get the blue/green harness for the motor because that one doesn't seem to include it.
Replies:
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 18, 2009 at 10:42 PM
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 19, 2009 at 12:30 PM
There doesn't appear to be a working link but anyway to answer your questions, most DECENT aftermarket kits such as MES, Sempal (Spal) or the leading alarm manufacturers such as DEI manufacture or distribute kits with complete looms such as 5 wire control actuators for the front and 2 wire for the rear. These kits usually come with a control relay. There will be two wires coming off the relay which are low current neg. switching, able to work with any centre off momentary switch or any make of alarm.
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 20, 2009 at 2:03 AM
Does this forum block ebay links? I think that is why.
What would I need to make this work on my alarm?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 20, 2009 at 3:26 AM
As I thought, after looking at the picture, they are unknown brand STANDARD actuators, nothing special about them. Search the web for one of the manufacturers I listed above, they all do complete kits with wiring looms, relay* etc. Steelmate are another but the MES kits are the best quality. * They are not 2 x normal relays, they have built in timers that shut down their internal coil after 3 secs. Try this it's the best:- www.a1electric.com This is how you add a link by the way.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: August 20, 2009 at 5:37 AM
https://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm------------- Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 24, 2009 at 2:43 AM
Damn thats a little out of price range right now I am trying to put this system together on the cheap since I got the Scytek pager alarm for only $30 and its a 1985 corolla haha. Any other cheaper brands?
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: August 24, 2009 at 9:19 AM
Have you ever wired relays...Im assuming these are just the actuators w/ two wires coming out...Most alarm install manuals include aftermarket actuator wiring...Not horribly diffucult...But if you have never seen a relay...Spend the extra and get the all-in-1 kit...Your head will ache less... Oh BTW...Does the door have a rubber boot in the door jamb...That little rubber boot that protects the wires...?
-------------
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: August 24, 2009 at 10:04 AM
| Actuators / Reverse Polarity | This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one motor leg.
 |
------------- Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 26, 2009 at 12:07 AM
Yea it has rubber boots why?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 26, 2009 at 3:35 AM
Tommy is suggesting that a wire may have broken in the door cable.
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: August 26, 2009 at 11:50 PM
 ------------- M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 4:32 AM
Ohh, well it never had power door locks to start off with so nothing to break. I found a set of cheap 5 wire actuators and the control box for 25 bucks so I will see how those perform. But I will for sure install and MES brand one on my other car that one deserves it. What do you guys suggest for a proximity and tilt sensor?
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 9:10 AM
Radar/proximity sensors are nice...Might get some falsing from it...But every step of security you add is probably going to help...I dont even know the brand of the ones we use...Seems like i call the distributor,he ships it out,and then install it...So someone else can add model #'s...Dont think i have one left anyway...! But for the most part you just need to have it sensitive to someone reaching in car...As opposed to standing around vehicle...As the outside coverage is normally where you get falses from...! I havent done a tilt sensor in probably like 4 yrs...So i end here...!
-------------
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 6:52 PM
Okay, I got the actuator kit. I think I installed everything correctly but it won't lock or unlock. When I am plugging in the wire harness into the control module, the motors retract but that seems to be the only life I can get out of them. Aren't they supposed to open or close if i move one lock? They also don't lock or unlock when I plug in brown and white wire from the control module into the alarms blue and green lock output. What gives?
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 7:56 PM
Ok so maybe relays would have been easier... Maybe list Model # of unit...What alarm/remote start are you installing...?A link to there manual would be great...! Do you have a meter...?
-------------
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 8:29 PM
I played with the wires some more and connected and reconnected everything, now the motors are fully extended and if i try to push the driver side motor, both motors will retract then go back up. If I press the lock key on the alarm it will retract the motors then the motors go back up. The alarm is a ScyTek Astra 777.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 8:44 PM
Door lock actuators are not a constant duty device. Pull a fuse out or something. They will not last if they constantly pull one way or another.
-------------
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 8:46 PM
Heres a video of it in action. What should I do? Do you think the control box is faulty? The first part shows the connections to the actuators and the other part is the red and green wires into the control box's lock and unlock output.
https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v446/micrors4racer/?action=view¤t=1251423414.flv
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 8:48 PM
great point...Lets dis-connect til you figure it out...But either lock or unlock has a constant output/input instead of a pulse...
-------------
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 8:49 PM
micrors4racer wrote:
Heres a video of it in action. What should I do? Do you think the control box is faulty? The first part shows the connections to the actuators and the other part is the red and green wires into the control box's lock and unlock output.
https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v446/micrors4racer/?action=view¤t=1251423414.flv
I mean blue and green. Also I'm an Idiot their not going back and forth only when the driver side is pushed in, both locks go in then back out again but it doesn't do it over and over again unless you push it in once more.
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 27, 2009 at 9:12 PM
Update, If i unhook all the other wires except for the blue and green one, it works just fine.
https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v446/micrors4racer/?action=view¤t=1251424824.flv
But I would really like to use the driver door lock as a switch so I still need help figuring this out.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 28, 2009 at 1:56 AM
I think somewhere at the beginning of this long drawn out saga I mentioned about NOT connecting all 5 wires in the passenger door, just the motor wires. The micro switches (position sensors) on each 5 wire motor might be in opposition to each other. Wonderful video, doesn't show the motor or linkage, also how about flipping the door catch or had you done that?
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 28, 2009 at 2:36 AM
I don't think you mentioned not connecting all the wires on the passenger motor in this thread. Tommorow I will try just having the passenger motor hooked up to the blue and green and the driver side all 5 wires. I did try just lifting the lock and it would lift up just fine and stay that way but it wont activate the other motor.
Here is the linkage. When I connected the linkage to the lock rod The motor was in the middle of its travel between fully extended and fully retracted. Is that how their supposed to be mounted?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 28, 2009 at 9:28 AM
First, sorry I didn't mention it but we answer this type of question so often we often forget. On a 5 wire actuator (or solenoid or dor motor, they all mean the same) 2 of those wires are motor wires, on yours blue neg sitting goes pos to open, green neg sitting goes pos to close. The other 3, black to ground (actually on some cars e.g. Ren 5 this is pos but it's irrelevant) and white and brown are the switches. Inside a 5 wire are positional micro switches. When that motor is pulled or pushed either white or brown will then STAY common to the black...that's why the "proper" relays shut down their coils after about 1.5 secs. When you have cheap i.e. non MES motors, if one motor is sitting fractionally (can be less than 1/4"-6.4mm) lower or higher than the other, it will affect the micro switch. The answer to your last query is you are doing this wrong. Loosen the rod clamp, shut the door lock striker (so the mech thinks the door is closed), lock or unlock the door then align the motor so it's at MAXIMUM pull less about 1/4". Tighten. Remember my above coments, now it should pull sufficient to lock or unlock and control the passenger motor.
Posted By: micrors4racer
Date Posted: August 28, 2009 at 2:02 PM
Okay I will try that on saturday and get back at you guys, I am busy today and need the car so I cant work on it. I'll keep the passenger motor only 2 wire and use all 5 wires on the driver and reposition them like you said and we'll see what happens.
|