1993 toyota camry le

my door locks (driver and passenger side) don't work unless i have the key in the ignition (ON).

on the driver's side, i have to use two hands to open the door. this is what i have to do to open my door: put the key into key hole, turn it, then with my left hand i use to open the door. when i turn the key to unlock it, it does not unlock, it gets jammed. i sort of have to "jimmy" it. i do the same thing when im inside the car; i put my thumb on the lock as if i was going to unlock it but as im doing this im holding it back then with my right hand i open with the door handle. and when i try to unlock it, the lock from the inside does not move. this is the most inconvenient issue because i always have to use two hands :[.

also my driver's power window work but when i want to put my window up i have to use extra strength to put the window up.

i know these are a lot of issues but i will greatly appreciate it if someone can help me then going to a shop and being charged big money when it might be possible i can fix it my self. thanks guys.

Remove the door panel and lubricate pivot points of the locking system.  Maybe a little lubrication on the window mechanism too.

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

i am an idiot wrote:

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pivot points of the locking system/window tracks

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i am not familiar with these. but will this solve my problem?

A little lubrication can work wonders.

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

"pivot points of the locking system/window tracks"

can you please explain what these look like?

Remove the door panel, lock and unlock the door while looking around for moving parts.  There may be parts that move up and down, and there may be parts that move left to right.  The piece of metal that makes the left to right motion turn into an up and down motion is the Pivot Point.  If it moves, lubricate anywhere that it touches another piece. 

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

why does my door locks work when i have the key in the ignition (turned to ON)?

imupabove wrote:

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why does my door locks work when i have the key in the ignition (turned to ON)?

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have you tried checking your fuses for any blown ones?  worst comes to worst then you could buy a keyless entry module and some actuators and replace the locks all together but they still wouldn't work with the stock switch.

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If your locks function fine with the stock switch when the ingnition is on but not when it's off, then you have a broken power feed to the lock module somewhere, as soundnsecurity said check your fuses, if all are fine, turn the ignition on and locate the locking module inside the car by moving the rocker switch back and forth and listening for the clicking of the relays, when you have done all of this you can post back, i may be able to help you.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

about the fuses .. which area should i look at. their are many places on my car that has fuses. all i know theirs fuses behind the coin box and fuses under the hood. ill double check tomorrow.

"turn the ignition on and locate the locking module inside the car by moving the rocker switch back and forth and listening for the clicking of the relays"

the rocker switch is the switch to open all doors right? will i need to rip open the door panel?

thanks. greatly appreciate your reply.

i still have an alarm installed in my car but it doesnt work for some reason. whenever i disconnect my car's negative battery lead and put connect it back on, the alarm goes on ARMED mode and the red alarm light blinks and my car wont start (no cranking at all). but their is a kill switch at the bottom left of the driver's seat that disarms the alarm and the blinking red light goes away; car starts up.

sometimes when im driving the alarm arms itself and the light blinks and i hear a ticking noise coming from the alarm box. and when i turn off the engine it wont start back up then i use the kill switch.

is their a way i can remove this alarm safely and have everything to normal? thank guys. i love you guys.

Yes i'm sure there is a way you can remove it completely, you would have to look under the driver's dash for the control module, if you are having difficulty locating it, trace it back from the red blinking light, when you find it you can either disconnect the control module, and make sure the car starts perfectly when you do, or you can go through the process of removing the wires entirely, if it's your personal vehicle i recommend the latter one!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Yes the rocker witch is the one that locks and unlocks the doors, you won't have to take the door panel off, unless the module is inside the door, which i don't believe it is, The last time i did a toyota of that vintage the module was located on the left side of the vehicle, that's my left, to you that would be the right.

Also check all fuses to ensure they are fine even the ones that don't pertain to the locks, and using the fuse diagram on the covers make sure all fuses are in the correct place in the fuseboxes.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

the control module is that box right? that makes clicking noise when it arms itself? what do you mean by "latter one"?

so basically i just unplug everything right?

so the module is located to the right? i seen a relay there. its black and has a couple of plugs. its on the lower right of the passenger side. do i replace it?

You have to ensure it's the locking module first! do you have a meter?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Yes that's the one! When i said the latter one i meant my last suggestion, which would be to remove each wire from the car!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

i have a meter. but im not sure if the right meter.

it has 2 prongs (pos./neg.). theirs 3 different options: OHMS RX10 RX1K, ACV 10-500, DCV 25-500, and DCmA 250-500.

is this the meter your talking about? it says "AC10V ONLY" by there meter scale.

Not to sound harsh, but this is going to be very hard! Set the meter to DCV anywhere between 12 and 20 volts will be fine, have you verified where you are hearing the clicking of the locking module from?. This isn't for you, impuabove, if anyone on here knows exactly where that locking module is in his specific vehicle could you please post it up it would help alot.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

okay so the locking module isnt behind the door panel for sure right?

about the meter.. am i going to check the relay? how exactly would i do that?

i think i need to open the door panel because the lock is so jammed.

your lock is jammed! I can assist you with the power locking part of this, not the mechanical part! Have you located the relay module?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

You'll probably find a starter kill relay in there as well. It sounds like the alarm is set for passive immobilisation and it's not getting an ignition stand-off feed.

Yup that was my first thought Howard!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

what does the lock module look like sir?

because on the lower right passenger side behind the kick panel i see a black little cartridge and it says Relay on it. is that what your talking about? how am i going to test it with the meter? thanks.

howie ll wrote:

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You'll probably find a starter kill relay in there as well. It sounds like the alarm is set for passive immobilisation and it's not getting an ignition stand-off feed.

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so what exactly should i do?

It doesn't neccesarily have to look like relays since a car will have alot of relays, the ones you saw are not neccesarily the locking ones! Put your thumb on the top of the relay  and turn the ignition on and move the rocker switch back and forth and notice if your finger can sense any clicking movement from the relay. 

I think it's time to consult your local professionals!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

okay.... what if i feel clicking movement from the relay? where do i go from there?

Just disconnect it as i mentioned earlier!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Then you can proceed to testing the wires to see where the problem lies! Which i figure will take a long time at the rate this is going!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

i dont know how to use this meter though. ha. sorry for my cluelessness.

oh just to let you know my door locks work when i turn the key to "ON" and when i take out the key the door locks work for a couple of minutes. then eventually they wont work; it only locks.

Follow the wiring, look for a cut such as the starter wire at the ignition loom (It goes to the fusebox), think it's BLACK/ white or BLACK / YELLOW. Reading this post I feel you would be better off taking it somewhere and have a specialist disconnect the unit. It would take me about 20 mins.

On 95% of the alarms out there, you should be able to just unplug the alarm brain and all will be fine.  Unplug it and see if the car will start.  If it starts with the brain removed, there is no need to remove the starter kill relay unless it begins to give you trouble down the road.  If you insist on doing this yourself, simply disconnecting the brain is our best option.  Removing the starter kill relay will take a whole bunch of posts.  Or have you thought about identifying the alarm and trying to get a remote.  This should be pretty easy on us.  Just pull the brain out and type every word and every set of numbers you see on the case of the brain.  Tyoe the info here.  No you do not need to unplug the brain to get the numbers.  The steering wheel does not have to be removed.  Yes you should disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before doing this.  When you connect the battery back, I know that the alarm is going to be set off.   That is where the Valet Switch comes into play, simply turn the key on and press the valet switch, this will disarm the alarm.  Yes the Valet switch is the switch that you refered to as a kill switch in an earlier post.  Yes it is normal for the valet switch to just be tucked away somewhere under the dash.  Without a key, or means to turn the ignition switch to the on position, the valet switch will not function.  The other functions of the valet switch are as follows, if you are attending a play or even just going out for a nice meal, and the establishment you are visiting has Valet Parking, you can put the alarm in valet mode.  This disables the alarm but still allows the door locks to work.  They assume that since you valet park, nothing is going to happen to your car.  Because the Valet's are so honest.  The valet switch is also used in the programming of the alarm.  It is used to enter the programming mode and also when in programming mode, it is used to manipulate features to your liking.  If you do get a new remote, it will have to be programmed to your alarm brain.  Depending on what you find out about the make and model of your alarm brain, there are several ways to program remotes.  When you find out the make and model, let us know so we can dig up the programming instructions to let you know what all is going to be involved with that task.  If there are multiple plugs on the alarm brain, you really only need to disconnect the main one.  The main one will be the one with the most wires on it.  It may have small and large wires on that single plug. 

I think that should about cover it. 

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB