2007 subaru outback sport remote start

I have a 2007 Subaru Outback Sport.

I Do know that it is an Impreza, but with the word Outback in the name.

Looking up parts is a pain sometimes because some databases dont specifically list it, or list it as a subtype of Impreza, OR as a subtype of Outback.

Anyway, I have a NIB Clifford 3.5 RSX Responder I want to put in.

Regarding the bypass systems, etc out there (pku-sub, etc)- will any one them wokj with this year? Do these kits see an Impreza or an Outback??

If it is considred an Impreza as far as wiring and the bypass kits that say Impreza 2008+, am I hosed for remote start? What would be my options then?

Also, does anyone have a wiring diagram for this model?

(since i am new, i will say I did install 1 alarm before, and a few car audio systems over the years.  I did an install in my wife's Suburban with 6 screens (3 dropdown, 1 dash popout DVD headunit, 1 visor,1 headrest) ,  secondary DVD player, VCR, nav, Sirius, 4 gameports with puresine inverter.)  I also did that homestudy in the 90's from National Academy of Mobile Electronics- they had a summer $299(?)  sale for the whole course, so I figured why not?)

oh brother- typos- its a 2007- and I dont see an 'edit" where I can change that.

thanks for fixing the topic.

Hi

Anyone?

i checked with my dealer- it is a 2007 IMPREZA Outback Sport- so as far as aftermarket stuff, its an IMPREZA.

anyone have a wiring diagram or know of a bypass kit that will work with the 2007 Impreza?

Here's a wiring diagram! Someone else will help with your bypass! Cheers

that says its for a 2007 Outback.

the Outback SPORT is an IMPREZA.

Technically,for Subaru,  the word "Outback" is a STYLE.

The Outback is really a style of a LEGACY.

The Outback Sport is a style of an IMPREZA.

I got this all cleared up with the dealer today.

SO, I need for a 2007 IMPREZA.

Maybe you can use this as a base for your testing! If not i humbly apologise

lol- no need to apologize- it IS confusing. Ivae had Outback Sport before, and every parts website might have it under a different heading.

As far as immobilizer, it doesnt have one (thank you bypass.com tech support.)

But still need 2007 Impreza wiring diagram

is there a wiring diagram for the power windows ?

I have 2 Directed power window modules for the 4 windows.

I have the alldatadiy schematics- but they're not helpful as to where the wires are, where is the best or easiest place to access them, etc

any ideas on what method of neutral (or parking) safety switch/wire/etc this car uses and where to access it (and whether to use relay?)

yes, I know some just ground that wire from the remote start in an automatic, but I want to be proper.

I found that switch- there is a micro switch when the gearshift goes into park. It is ground at rest.

NEXT MAJOR PROBLEM:

Every Impreza 2005-2007 guide shows the door trigger as neg at the yellow wire on the grey plug at the integrated unit.

Taking my Fluke meter and putting the red to 12v from the lighter plug, and using my Fluke pin probe on that yellow wire, I see NEGATIVE 12v.

It stays that way whether a door is opened or closed- no change.  i opened and closed all doors to make sure no door was half-closed.

I am at my whits end-  I ve been trying to find this wire for 3 hours.

I probed the yellow wire at the keyless entery module and got the same thing.

WHAT WOULD CAUSE THIS?  I do have the instrument cluster out- i grabbed the tach wire there (matches the readings at the ECU wire)

HELP!

I tried in reverse- i grounded my meter's black wire and used the pin probe on postive.

i get positive 12v on that wire and it doesnt change whethere doors are open or closed.  I found other wires that show 12v and theyre constant also.

I probed every wire on the body inegrated unit and the keyless entry module and they dont change whether i open or close the driver door.

?????????

does anyone know how long the sensor sends ground when it is triggered?  0.1 sec? 0.5 sec? 1 sec?

I have an RSX3.5 and I want to put it onto the blue wire of sensor zone 2- i wont need any diodes that way becasue the shock sensor has its own wire in that port.

Both wires on that port will trigger full if the ground from the sensor lasts longer than 0.8 sec.

I would like to have both "impact" type sensors on zone 2, and my dual zone motion on zone 3 by itself.

If I put the glassbreak to zone 1, did someone open the hood or break the window when the remote reports zone 1?

I still have the panel out- i went to alldata and on the schematic, the yellow wire is supposed to go to ground when the door opens (all 3 doors and hatch have ground at one side of their switch, and the yellow at the other side.) The driver door has ground at one side , and LOr (which i think they mean lavender/orange?)- either way, its right next to the yellow.

but are you saying the car has (+) door trigger?

got it- thanks- alldatadiy was really helpful-it was easy to see on the schematic that the yellow HAS to be a ground when a door switch is tripped.

I finished identifying all my connections today- now i begin to hook things up and find the best place to run my wires.

In the manual, for programming, its say at the end of programming there will be a "horn honk , if it is hooked up."

There IS no wire labelled "horn..." in the manual.  There is no 2-wire plug that some posts mention.

So what on this system honks/chirps or whatever when finished programming, and IS there an output that pulses or latches a few seconds at the end of programming?

thye manual states that the blue H1/6 multi input is zone 4 in the connector diagram, and the description of those wires.

However, the table in the back lists these zones:

1 Multiplexed Input BLUE (H1/6)

2 Multiplexed Shock Sensor Input Mux BLUE wire.

3 Door Trigger GREEN (H1/5) and VIOLET (H1/7).

4 Multiplexed Shock Sensor Mux GREEN wire

5 Ignition Yellow ribbon harness wire

6 Hood Brake Trigger GRAY on the 6-pin shutdown harness.

So, I put my dualzone motion sensor's 2 wires to the blue wire (red to power, black to orange at brain.)

When I walk up to the car, it goes off and it is flashing the hood is going off (i set the remote to hood being I have a htachgback that the hatch triigers as a door).

Why the discrepancy?  The manual early on shows the hood pin as zone 1.  In the list later, it says hood is zone 6?  and what is a "brake trigger"?  its not the brake input for shutting down the remote starter.

So does someone know what excatly each wire goes to what zone and how it will show on the remote?

I wired what I THOUGHT was correct according to the connector diagrams and the wire descriptions.

ZONE:

1: hood pin, tilt, and backup battery diode'd into gray wire

2: using the Y connector that came with my glassbreak sensor, I have the dualzone shock sensor and the glassbreak sensor.  The dualzone's 2 output wires are together on the blue, and the glassbreak's single output is on the green. Both sensors share the red and black. This plugs into the zone 2 port.

3: doors & hatch

4: dualstage motion sensor- both its output wires to the blue wire. red to power, black to orange (ground when armed.)

I did the arming sequence to bypass zone 4- and the motion sensor still picke me up.  so, the blue wire must really be on zone 1.

Thst just really nice- that the table in the back of the manual does not agree with the wiring instructions

(well, the wiring instructions say you can use the orange wire for the starter kill relay (that IS enclosed in the box.) So I was wondering why the remote start wouldnt work- i read in another post that it grounds the orange wire during remote start to turn on bypass module and it just uses the relay in the relay pack as a starter interrupt.   thats sweet.

does anyone have a correct manual?  I want to close up my dash already

otherwise, everything works well- the starter is great (once I removed the orange wire from the starter kill relay that the manual said was ok to hook up.)

i just need the correct wire for the correct zone being the discepancy in the manual.

So i should leave it as the trunk on the remote-

so the hood pin will report as zone HOOD on the remote then?

why is the chart i posted from the back of the manual different than the wiring diagram as far as zones?  which is correct? when  the connector drawing and the wire-by-wire instructions say that the shock sensor has 2 mux inputs that report as zone 2, or the chart that shows them as zone 2 and zone 4?????

If there are additional zones on the unit then you might as well use them, i don't install clifford, but i do the viper line from dei, there units have the zones where the plug fits right in, and you can program it accordiingly to the sensor you're installing!

the field effect is the only one that shows "trunk", so im ok with that.

However, I have both of its output wires together on the blue wire.

I cant get a warn away response no matter how i adjust it.

It says it puts out 0.5s on the warnaway lead, and 1s on the trigger. so, the blue mux wire should differentiate.

any tricks?

also, when combining warnaway/trigger leads do you need to diode isolate them?

the car sat all evening and part of the night with no problems.

About 4:30 am it goes off. I hit the disarm from in the house. it goes off again. and again

1) where's the anitnuisance circuitry? I set it to on during setup.

2) it is the grey wire(HOOD on the remote). I have dioded into it- the hood pin- the tilt sensor- the battery backup.

There is no wind at all and nowhere near a highway. all quiet and still outside. nowhere near a tree or anything moving.

But it is 44 degrees out.

does cold effect the tilt sensor? or could there be a slight drop in main battery voltage that triggers the backup battery alarm?  is there a way to adjust the sensitivity of that battery backup alarm, if that is the culprit?

Interesting thought on the battery voltage, but i doubt that's the culprit, try eliminatig the tilt sensor overnight and see what happens! I don't know if weather affects it, i live in a tropical climate, maybe someone else can chime in!