ungo s100, 2002 pontiac grand am
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=116201
Printed Date: July 19, 2025 at 9:31 PM
Topic: ungo s100, 2002 pontiac grand am
Posted By: 02_grandam
Subject: ungo s100, 2002 pontiac grand am
Date Posted: September 08, 2009 at 9:09 PM
Ok, so I have an Ungo S100 alarm installed in my 2002 Pontiac Grand Am SE. It was working fine until tonight. I had finally gotten around to interfacing my oem door locks with the alarm, so when I armed it, it locked the doors, and when I disarmed it, it would unlock them. Anyways, I tried it out, and got to a point where I realized I needed 2 relays. I was trying to hook the locks up by using a 1500ohm resistor on the alarms unlock trigger, and direct connecting the alarms lock trigger (It's a single wire negative trigger system). But yeah, I figured out I need the 2 relays, so I taped both of the alarm triggers up so I could do it tomorrow when i got the 2 relays. I tried the alarm then, and it worked fine. I came inside for about 5 minutes, and came back out in the shed to find I had locked my keys in the car. No problem, came in and got my extra key and alarm remote and went out and unlocked it with that one. Tried the alarm on the spare remote...no dice. So I then tried my regular remote, since I thought that was odd, and still nothing. Since I had my radio out (Alarm is hidden behind there) I dissconnected all the harness, checked both fuses, and reconnected them, and still nothing. I know the until has power, as when I hit the car, the little light in the shock sensor lights up.
Also, I changed the battery in the remote, still nothing. I then tried the relearn procedure (Press the lock button several times so the remote can re-sync itself) Still nothing.
Anyone, what could have happened? The alarm was only installed about 6 months ago.
Replies:
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 09, 2009 at 9:10 AM
Well, the brain seems to still work. I can put it into valet mode and override mode successfully using the ignition and the override button, and the led responds accordingly. It's also still sending power to the shock sensor, as the little light inside it lights up when the vehicle is hit. But it will not respond to ethier remote at all. I'm going to try a new battery today, see if that does it any justice. Could the antenna have failed?
Posted By: 91stt
Date Posted: September 09, 2009 at 1:09 PM
Try reprogramming the remotes
The manual can be obtained here: https://www.clarion.com/us/en/MungoBlobs/1022/175/S100_INSTALL,1.pdf
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 09, 2009 at 5:13 PM
Thank you so much!!!!!! The Product manual told me to keep pressing the lock button to re-sync the remote. But, as directed above, the installation manual had a programming sequence. I tried it once, and it still didn't work. But, after a little more reading, I figured I'd do a sequence that would make the alarm forget each remote, so it's memory was wiped clean. I then tried the re-program sequence for arm, disarm, and panic, and it works perfect once again! Once again, thank you very much! You just saved me 200 bucks!
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 09, 2009 at 10:19 PM
The car is a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am SE Coupe, the Alarm is an Ungo S100. I'm interfacing my door locks into my alarm, so the doors lock on arming, and unlock on disarming. I understand the locks on the Grand am are negative single wire triggered, so the unlock trigger from the alarm must connect to the lock wire with a 1500ohm resistor, and the lock trigger can be directly connected to the same wire. I also learned that relays must be used to make it work properly. I had no clue how to wire the configuration to work properly with the relays, so I done some searching on my Grand Am forum and found this diagram: https://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/15941_GRAND-AM_GRAND%20AM%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf This is apparently the correct way to hook it up (The first one, as my unit doesn't have on-board door lock relays) I hooked it up this way, and it doesn't do anything. When I connect the ground, it unlocks the doors. Nothing when I press the buttons on the remote. What am I doing wrong?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: September 10, 2009 at 6:25 AM
When you arm and disarm the alarm, do you hear the relays click with each of the above actions? If you ground the other end of the 1500 ohm resistor, does it work?
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 10, 2009 at 8:15 AM
Does the ungo have +/- door lock outputs...If the unit has just - outputs...I dont think you will need relays...Can you list the wire description of the lock/unlock...? | Power Unlock | | WHITE | | (-) | | AT BCM MODULE NEAR GLOVEBOX BEHIND RIGHT SIDE OF DASH | | |  | PowerLock | | LIGHT BLUE | | (-) | | AT BCM MODULE NEAR GLOVEBOX BEHIND RIGHT SIDE OF DASH | | |
------------- M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 10, 2009 at 3:25 PM
First off, I'd like to apologize to the mods for making a double post. I didn't realize I posted the problem in here as well.
Here's whats in the installation manual, in terms of the locks:
Green Wire: (-) Lock, (+) Unlock Output
Blue Wire: (-) Unlock, (+) Lock Output
So yes, it does have + - Lock Outputs. In all of the instrustions I've seen, it mentions nothing of tapping that light blue wire, just hitting the white wire in the drivers kick panel with both Outputs, and having a resistor on one. Just wondering if the blue wire comes into play. When I hit the lock & unlock buttons, no action happens except for my alarm Arming & Dis-arming. The only action I get it the doors lock when I connect the ground wire (As per the relay diagram above) when the resistor is on one output, and if I take it off and put it on the other Output, then they will unlock when i connect the ground. I will try just grounding the other end of the resistor, but I can't see that having an effect.
Anyone else? I'd love to get this done tonight.
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 10, 2009 at 9:24 PM
When doing resistance based door locks w/ +/- door lock output...Although this usually applies w/ dodges...I would have to put some diodes in-line or wire up some relays...It would Lock or unlock with just one wire attached...When i would attach both...I would get nothing...!! If it is resistance based...There is only one wire...How i usually check it is...Connect two leads from the door lock wire...Put the resistor in-line on one of them...Touch one wire to ground...Did it lock/unlock...then put the other one on ground...Did it unlock/lock...? If you sucessfully get the lock/unlock to work w/ just touching the two earlier attached wires to ground...Then you can do a convert polarity relay to give you the correct output...
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 10, 2009 at 9:31 PM
| Convert a Positive Output to a Negative Output | If you have a switch or an alarm or keyless entry that has a positive output that you wish to use to switch a device that requires a ground such as a horn, dome light, parking lights, head lights, hatch release, etc., wire a relay as shown below to convert the positive output (trigger) to a negative output. 
Here's the same configuration showing a positive output from an alarm or remote keyless entry used to activate a vehicle's parking light relay that requires a ground to turn the lights on.  |
------------- M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 10, 2009 at 10:17 PM
tommy... wrote:
How i usually check it is...Connect two leads from the door lock wire...Put the resistor in-line on one of them...Touch one wire to ground...Did it lock/unlock...then put the other one on ground...Did it unlock/lock...? If you sucessfully get the lock/unlock to work w/ just touching the two earlier attached wires to ground...Then you can do a convert polarity relay to give you the correct output...
This makes sense to me. I'll try it tomorrow and report back.
One question though. How do I know which output from the alarm is + ? (So I know which one to hook the relay up to) I know above I specified colors, but I'm using a different 3 pin harness. Thanks once again!
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 7:24 AM
green...(+) Unlock Output
blue...(+) Lock Output
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 2:57 PM
I just tried attaching two leads to the white door lock wire. The resistor one locked, the regular one unlocked. So, I hooked up both alarm outputs to seperate relays, and wired them as per the schematic tommy posted on page one. Tried the remote, no dice. The only action I got from them was when the wire coming off pole 85 touched pole 87A (Middle pole) instead of pole 30, it would lock (Or unlock on the other relay)
Anyone know what i can do? lol I figure it's something simple, I just can't figure it out.
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 3:16 PM
Did you try just adding diodes in-line...? Do you have a meter...? Are the added relays clicking when you press lock/unlock...? Pay attention to the ones you added...As you might hear the internal relays clicking inside ungo alarm , instead of added ones...! If you do have a meter and are hearing the added relays clicking when pressing lock/unlock...The next step is to check output on alarm...then relays...! If they are not clicking recheck wiring...!
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 3:20 PM
Relays are not clicking. I will be checking with a meter momentarily, what should I check for, and where (just to be sure) No diodes are inline, but I'm almost sure diode isolation isn't needed.
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 4:17 PM
It is b/c there are both + and - output ...thats why a diode would be needed...! You have rechecked the wires going to relay...Did you mix up input/output...? I have used diodes in the dodge applications...I mentioned this in my earlier post...!
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 4:26 PM
As far as checking...If the relays are not clicking...Means no output...! So you want to verify the wires going to the relays have a good signal/connection...! If everything has been checked and verified...I throw in the white towell...! Will have to wait for some new ideas/help...Sorry...I really wish i would of stayed at a holiday inn express last night...Geez...!
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 5:47 PM
Just checked the output from the alarm...getting some crazy readings. A constant 4.72V from one wire, regardless if the remote is used, and nothing on the other wire, with a 2mv spike when the button is pressed....
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 6:39 PM
Are they still connected to the relays...? If so...Lets dis-connect and retest...? If they were disconnected from the relays...and not attached to anything... There might be a problem with the outputs on the alarm...! Is this a new unit...?
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 11, 2009 at 6:40 PM
Yes, I bought used but it was never hooked up. And nothing was connected.
Posted By: 02_grandam
Date Posted: September 12, 2009 at 12:01 PM
Another idea from my Grand Am forum. I've been posting the same stuff there. Rainbow1616;1516717 wrote:
Did you measure each wire to ground? When you hit the button on your remote you should have 0 volts to ground.
If you hold one lead on +12 and the other on the blue or green wire you should get 12v when you hit your lock/unlock button. Which wire you have the 12v on depends weather your hitting lock or unlock.
Just tried that. With 12V on one lead, and the other connected to one of the outputs, I got 7.xxV from one wire, with little drop when the button was pressed, and 12.5V (Battery voltage) from the other, with a small drop (12.1V) when the button was pressed. Pretty sure my outputs are Royally F#ucked.
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