2009 Chevrolet Silverado Remote Start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=116381
Printed Date: April 18, 2024 at 10:10 AM
Topic: 2009 Chevrolet Silverado Remote Start
Posted By: dennis f
Subject: 2009 Chevrolet Silverado Remote Start
Date Posted: September 17, 2009 at 3:16 PM
Hey guys,
I am an old installer who got out of the business a few years back. I have an opportunity to install a remote start in a friends car, 2009 Silverado.
I am trying to find any type of schematic or install guide. I have heard that GM changed up the way these are wired from 05/06 when I last installed.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
Thanks
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-Dennis
Replies:
Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: September 17, 2009 at 3:36 PM
: 2009 CHEVROLET SILVERADO C1500 4DR TRUCK WITH 4.3L ENGINE AND STANDARD AUDIO SYSTEM
Remote Start
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED / WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
LOW CURRENT, FOR HIGH CURRENT USE RED / BLACK AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX
Ignition 1 PINK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 BROWN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
MAY BE YELLOW ON SOME MODELS
Accessory 2 PINK/BLACK (+) IGNTION SWITCH HARNESS
FOR REMOTE START INTEGRATION
Starter 1 YELLOW/BLACK (+) AT MODULE UNDER HOOD BEHIND DRIVER HEADLIGHT
NOT FOR REMOTE START, FOR REMOTE START INFORMATION
Starter 2 PINK/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
FOR REMOTE START INTEGRATION
Anti-Theft Type GM PASSKEY III® ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM
Anti-Theft Descript THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
Key Sense PINK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Tachometer WHITE (-) AT IGNITION COIL
Speed Sense YELLOW/BLACK (AC) AT ECM MODULE UNDER HOOD ON DRIVER FENDER
BLACK PLUG PIN #57
Parking Lights LIGHT BLUE (-) AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH
Brake Lights LIGHT BLUE/WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
IGNITION MUST BE ON FOR THIS WIRE TO TEST
Reverse Lights DARK BLUE (+) AT BCM MODULE UNDER DRIVER DASH
Horn TAN (-) IN HARNESS AT STEERING COLUMN
ALSO AT BCM MODULE UNDER DRIVER DASH
Modules
WIRE LOCATION
Please select another category
Doorlocks/Windows
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Power Unlock WHITE (-) AT BCM MODULE UNDER DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH
THIS WIRE UNLOCKS THE REAR DOORS ONLY, WILL REQUIRE A 5-WIRE SET-UP IN EACH FRONT DOOR TO INTEGRATE OR A SERIAL DATA MODULE FROM AN ALARM MANUFACTURER
PowerLock LIGHT BLUE (+) AT BCM MODULE UNDER DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH
THIS WIRE LOCKS THE REAR DOORS ONLY, WILL REQUIRE A 5-WIRE SET-UP IN EACH FRONT DOOR TO INTEGRATE OR A SERIAL DATA MODULE FROM AN ALARM MANUFACTURER
i would use a DLPK module
DLPK (2009 Chevrolet Silverado)
W2W
CC-Heated Seats Activation
DL-Arm Factory Security
DL-Disarm Factory Security
DL-Door Lock Control
DL-Door Unlock
DL-Driver Priority Unlock
PK-Immobilizer Bypass-Data No Key Req'd
RS-RAP Shut Down (Remote ACC Power)
RS-Tach / RPM Output
SS-Entry Monitoring ALL Door Pins
SS-Entry Monitoring Driver Door Pin
SS-Entry Monitoring Front Door Pins
SS-Entry Monitoring Hood Pin
D2D
CC-Heated Seats
DL-Arm Factory Security
DL-Disarm Factory Security
DL-Door Lock Control
DL-Door Unlock
DL-Driver Priority Unlock
PK-Immobilizer Bypass-Data No Key Req'd
RS-RAP Shut Down (Remote ACC Power)
RS-Tach / RPM Output
SS-Entry Monitoring ALL Door Pins
SS-Entry Monitoring Driver Door Pin
SS-Entry Monitoring Front Door Pins
SS-Entry Monitoring Hood Pin
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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: September 18, 2009 at 12:24 PM
are you doing remote start only or hooking up keyless entry also?
i do a ton of work on new chevys, and have always just powered up pink ign , brown ac,constant( heavy red./blk at back of fuse box), lt blue(neg) pk lites at switch, brake wire( bottom wire at pedal switch blue/white i believe), ground and i program a blank key and place it in an astcbm(universal bypass module) if doing keyless also, most of these trucks(except some high lne models) have org/blk and pink/blk negative at bcm and/or behind acces door on dr side of dash if these wires arent present( again only seen this on highlne models) than must use a module from d.e.i. or flash logic etc., i also always hook up a tch feed from the lt blue wire at fuel injectors as with tachless ive had many instances of start, run for a few stop, restart, so i hook up tach and have never had a problem doing them this way, no need to do the resistors to the white wire as most tech tips say to do
Posted By: kickergod
Date Posted: September 19, 2009 at 1:45 PM
They are pretty easy since the bypass will do most of the work for you. I use a Fortin CANSL2 which also does bypass, locks, arm/disarm, etc. You will need Battery, and Brake at the fuse box, and you get the Bypass wires up at the IGN where you can get Horn, - Parklight, ING,ACCY. The bypass should take care of the rest through data wires. If I recal the bypass does tach and hood as well, but Ultrastarts (what I usually use) don't seem to like that tach signal so I go out under the hood. The power wire at the fuse box is smaller than your typical power wire but it will be fine. I believe it is Red White off the top of my head and there are about 4 or 5 in the same plug (any of them will work) I have done a good 5 or 6 of these in the pase couple months so feel free to send me a message if you need any further help. ------------- Ryan Edwards
MECP Certified Installer
Posted By: dennis f
Date Posted: September 21, 2009 at 2:04 PM
I believe this is a lower tier model. I won't know for sure till I open it up anyway. I have read about the 2 different models and after speaking with my buddy about this, he makes it sound like the lower level model but is equipped with some higher end options.
I plan on just doing RS with keyless. I have used the GMDLBP with success on older versions so using one similar would be better for me so I don't have to learn to much or spend time trying to figure a component out. But if it has straight (-) locks I will do that with an ASTCBM and I can get keys local and even have access to a key grinder.
Jim, what do you do for alarm disarm or do these new models not have alarms?
Thanks a bunch guys. I actually miss doing this work as I was an installer for 12 years and got out in 06 or so.
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-Dennis
Posted By: dennis f
Date Posted: September 21, 2009 at 2:14 PM
OH!
What is the white wire with resistor for and what about crank/starter circuit?
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-Dennis
Posted By: kickergod
Date Posted: September 21, 2009 at 3:59 PM
The white wire does your start through a resistance value. I do not know if you can get around that without a bypass. I am sure there is a way but I have always done them with the all in 1 bypasses that do locks key bypass and resistance. Here is what I use https://ifar.ca/en/products/flash/can-sl2/features.html There are other brands out there that will be similar in function
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Ryan Edwards
MECP Certified Installer
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: September 21, 2009 at 10:12 PM
i have never used nor needed the white wire with resistor on anjy gm and i work for 2 chevy dealers, i have never had any issues, i talked to a couple different mechaniscs and both told me the only thing that MAY occur is that the bcm will store an improper key sequence code which will trip NO lights or any other issues would do the same thing if a customer started the truck with both keys on the same key ring too close together. as for disarm, the alarm(if eqipped) will disarm upon seeing a key and the ign wire, have never done one yet aht i need to hook up any seperate disarm wire, the only way to arm it with aftermarket keyless would be to lock while door is open so i dont see that happening , i can do more research but ive never had one that had the negative door locks at the bcm have the alarm option so i dont think its an issue, but i also normally only do 1 button start only and the customer would use their factory keyless so this also would avoid problem
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: September 21, 2009 at 10:13 PM
there is no crank/starter circuit, the vehicle starts by seeing ign and accessory get power and accessory drop whle ign maintains this tells the bcm to crank
Posted By: dvaldez0989
Date Posted: September 22, 2009 at 11:50 AM
so if there is no starter/crank circuit what are you hooking up the starter wire to from the remote start and how are you doing a starter kill?
Posted By: dennis f
Date Posted: September 22, 2009 at 1:16 PM
All great info.
Well, I am sure my customer will not want to carry 2 remotes so I will almost certainly be doing key less.
I should have been more clear on the disarm, I would need to disarm the alarm for unlock. I am pretty confident the alarm is disarmed with ign on and the correct transponder.
I imagine with the starter be activated by dropping ACC, I can just cap off the start circuit. What is the pink/black for according to the tech sheet up above?
Thanks for all the help too!
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-Dennis
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: September 23, 2009 at 10:30 AM
for remote starter no starter output connection needed, for starter kill you need to run the kill wires to the yellow/blk wire under hood at module behind headlight,unfortunately i would imagine this would disallow remote start when armedd, i have never verified as we do very few alarms around my network and when we do we do not offer starter kill
sorry also pnk.blk(2nd acc) i have nevr used for my remote start installs again i think its only utilized for the overinvolved pk3 modules(which i dont use on these vehicles
i also have never needed disarm wire when lock wires were present at bcm
Posted By: dennis f
Date Posted: September 23, 2009 at 5:51 PM
Thank you Jim.
I also quit doing starter kills years ago when immobilizers were everywhere. I feel it is more of a liability then protection.
You already know, but I will report back all my findings for archives.
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-Dennis
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: January 19, 2010 at 10:06 AM
What ever happen with your install on the start issue?? I'm working with a 2010 Chevy Silverado and a iDatalink ADS module programmed and the start is a no go??
Posted By: ajanderson78
Date Posted: January 23, 2010 at 10:28 PM
jim hunter wrote:
there is no crank/starter circuit, the vehicle starts by seeing ign and accessory get power and accessory drop whle ign maintains this tells the bcm to crank
Please forgive me if I seem a little dumb but I'm not getting this.. I understand the no start wire and how it works, but i cant seem to figure out where to put my wires off my alarm now??
2007 silverado nbs, installed DLPK, now trying to install a autopage rs-727lcd. I'm thinking i don't need the violet starter wire from the alarm.?. Now what do i use to start it up and where do I put them??
Posted By: bambam3030
Date Posted: February 13, 2010 at 8:54 PM
just did one no you do not use the purple start wire the truck will start through the dlpk after it is insstalled and you program it. the one I did would not program but it worked without being programed. Just follow the instructions on the dlpk and use wire to wire and make sure you cut the data to data wire and tap 12v and ground.
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BAM
Posted By: willi styles
Date Posted: December 14, 2010 at 10:12 PM
I am installing a an Autostart with a Idatalink ADS-DL module for locks and PK3 bypass. I still dont quite understand why the vehicle doesnt have a starter wire! I have installed on many gm vehicles and i am familiar with the bypass module doing the start/crank through data (usually). The 2007 Chev Silverado is confusing me because 2nd Accessory is through 6300ohms and the starter wire is through 9600ohms apparently throught the pink/black from the key. The pink black is also what i connected the yellow (passlock) from the ADS-DL module. The module programmed correctly and everything works great but I cannot get the vehicle to crank. And my last question is what is the 5V reference wire used for? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thx
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 5:53 PM
the vehicle doesnt have a starter wire because the way the car is designed the bcm handles the crank output signal!, the car must see acc first, then ign then ac drop while ign stays and bcm sends the signal to crank. the newer audiovox that i use and the d.e.i product i have used has the proper sequence on these witres so all i do is ign acc power ground lights and brake program an extra circle plus key throw it in a universal bypass and im done, no need to hook up to the 2nd start acc line, I HAVE NEVER, hooked this up and have NEVER had an issue, in fact if you cut this 2nd start acc wire the vehicle still starts so theres no logical reason why were hooking to it, as long as the remote start has the proper acc/ign sequence that 2nd start wire is NOT needed, if your remote start doesnt supply the necassary sequence there is a way to wire 2 relays to do this sequence( i just did it today with an older audiovox reinstall )your no crank could still be a transpnder issue. i have had issues with the idatalink doing gm transponder in the past. when your trying to remote start it and it doesnt crank does it say service theft deterrent in the inst cluster?
Posted By: willi styles
Date Posted: December 20, 2010 at 5:56 PM
I fixed the issue. It was an immpobilizer issue with the transponder in the key and wouldnt start even when the key was in the ignition. with the key in the ignition it acts like a key sense wire and it wasnt helping me troubleshoot anything LOL. However if I just held the key to the ignition it would work. It was the ADS GM3 key ring (required when you wire type 2 to save on power draw) that you plug into a ADS-DL module that wasnt cooperating. Also apparently you can only program a ADS-GM3 to ONE vehicle which i think is stupid. I just have trouble programming the transponders on these key rings for years
Posted By: abescustoms
Date Posted: December 21, 2010 at 8:07 PM
im doing a 07 silverado right now and also cant find a crank wire ive read that on a8 model is pink/black using 1280ohm thru for crank is that right does that look right for a 07 also
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: December 22, 2010 at 10:12 PM
abe, 07 new body style im assuming? they made the new style and the classic style that year, but new style has no starter wire, if your remote start has the correct ign timing( acc before ign, then acc drop whle ign stays vehicle will crank) you can use a blank circle plus key ina box and just use ign, acc, that mux wire is not needed! i have never used that circuit and there is no problem and i do a few hundred new chevys a year as i service 3 chevy dealers, if your remote start doesnt have the correct sequence with ign/acc, there is a way to trick the vehicle with 2 relays, again that 2nd starter?acc line thru resistors is not needed
Posted By: abescustoms
Date Posted: December 23, 2010 at 1:25 PM
well im lost here it is a new body style im using after market alarm and a directed interface every thing seems to work expext starter i went to a buddys shop and on their system says to use 9.6k ohms on the pink/black wire for crank but the alarm goes off ( factory alarm ) now im stuck
Posted By: abescustoms
Date Posted: December 27, 2010 at 4:51 PM
okay got it done
the crank wire is a pink with black stripe which is also the acc, wire
use ohm resistor at 9.6k ohms for start
and 6.3k ohms for second accesory
i used the dlkp from directed for all other door pins,and locks
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: December 28, 2010 at 7:20 PM
your remote start must not have had the timing sequence right as i do at least 2 new chevys a day and i have NEVER used the resistors on that wire but new audiovox have the proper timing(acc first, then ign then acc drop causes car to crank) car can be fooled with 2 relays as i have had to do that with an older audiovox product
Posted By: 01ws6/tamu
Date Posted: December 30, 2010 at 2:53 PM
Can someone clarify please on the ignition and accessory wiring hookups.
Do you tie 12v straight in from the alarm relays to the ign and accessory wiring for remote start to function.
Or does the alarm ignition outputs have to go through the resistors before tying into the ignition switch wiring.
Thanks again
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: December 31, 2010 at 6:20 AM
depends on weather your remote starter has the proper timing sequence which you really wont know till you try to install it,and depends on how your interfacing with the circle plus transponder system( if your using a key in the box then yes but if your using a data module i.e. idatalink, or fortin or express kit then you must follow their install guides to a t.) the vehicles( all new gm's) must see acc, then ign, then acc drop while ign stays that signals the bcm that the key has been turned to crank so the bcm sends a crank signal to the starter motor, i do 10 or more new gm cars/trucks a week and i have NEVER had to hook up to the 2nd start/acc wire with resisitors,just power at the back of the fusebox,pink ign and brown acc( make sure to test as there are more than one of each of these colors in ign switch harness
Posted By: 01ws6/tamu
Date Posted: December 31, 2010 at 7:12 PM
I am installing a clifford 590.2 and using the dei 1701G databus interface module.
Do the DEI alarms have the correct sequence to avoid using resistors.
Providing the sequence is correct resistors are not used and the 12 wires from the autostart relay pack are then directly spliced onto the ignition and accessory at the ignition switch. Is this correct?
This is my first entry into the gmt-900 silverado sierra platform but definitely not my first alarm install.
Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: January 02, 2011 at 8:43 PM
the d.e.i. stuff i have installed for a friends shop ( avital,viper) do, so yes just ign 1 to pink ign, acc to rown acc at ign switch, 12volts to the RED / blk(heavy) at back of fuse box, neg pklights at switch, i just program a spare blank circle plus key and put it in a universla, im not familoiar with 1701g, that may be whats requiring the resistors,
Posted By: 01ws6/tamu
Date Posted: January 07, 2011 at 10:23 PM
Thanks a bunch appreciate it.
Posted By: robbyd
Date Posted: February 09, 2011 at 1:59 PM
i have a 2010 sierra, basic work truck, just trying to do a remote start on it, heres what i have at the ignition switch, im confused on what my starter manual is telling me compared to what i read on this board on which wires are what, but what i list below is what i have tested and the words in parentheis is what im assuming to be right, please correct me if im wrong. Im also using a MUX bypass (xpresskit) with this.
Please bare with me on this as this is my first attempt at this stuff and i appreciate all the help i can get.
pin one - Empty
pin two(ignition) - PINK 0v Off, 0v Accessory position, 12v ON position, 15v start
pin three(accessory) - BROWN 0v off, 12v accessory position, 12v on position, 15v start
pin four(constant) - RED / WHITE 12v off position, 12v acc position, 12v on position, 15v start
pin five(starter) - PINK/BLACK 12v off position, 0v acc position, 4v on position, 4v start
pin six(5VOLT REF) - WHITE 5v off position, 5v acc position, 4v on position, 4v start
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