06 dodge 2500, remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=116484
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 3:26 PM
Topic: 06 dodge 2500, remote start
Posted By: paul h
Subject: 06 dodge 2500, remote start
Date Posted: September 22, 2009 at 10:41 AM
Hello all. I am putting a Autopage RS-730 in my 06 Dodge 2500, diesel if it matters. I have looked at several sites, including this one that says the ACC and START are the violet/brown wire and works through resistors, as stated below, which I found on another post on this site. 1st problem I am having is finding the correct value resistors, 610 & 180 locally....and I don't know how to make my own values....can someone explain this to me, PLEASE!! :-) 2nd....the diagram below shows the dk. GREEN/ YELLOW to be a + starter wire on this truck, which I confirmed....so is it ok to use this wire for the start function?? I'm assuming NOT since the other 3 diagrams I have seen shows to use the single wire and put resistors on for ACC and START....and there has to be a reason, but I wanted to ask. But if someone could enlighten me as to resistors values, I would greatly appreciate it!! Thank you. DODGE / RAM PICKUP / 2006 / Remote Start
12volts lt. blue/red (2A) + ignition harness
Starter dk. GREEN/ YELLOW + ign harn or starter button (SRT-10)
Second Starter PURPLE / brown - ignition harness
Notes: The second starter wire is negative trigger thru an 180 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to DirectFax document 1084 for wiring information.
Ignition pink/white + ignition harness
Second Ignition N/A
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory same as second starter wire - ignition harness
Notes: The accessory wire is negative trigger thru a 610 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to DirectFax document 1084 for wiring information.
Second Accessory N/A
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: September 23, 2009 at 8:11 PM
A 1K and a 1.5K resistor in parallel will give you 600 ohms. This should be close enough to the 610 ohms.
If you series 2 resistors, or more than 2 for that matter, simply add the values together. You should be able to get a 100 ohm and a 75 ohm and wire them in series for the 180 ohm.
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: September 23, 2009 at 9:11 PM
Thanks a lot....I'll try that out!! Appreciate it.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: September 24, 2009 at 6:01 AM
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September 24, 2009 at 8:24 AM
If you use a bypass...It does all of these things for you...
-------------
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: September 24, 2009 at 10:29 PM
tommy... wrote:
If you use a bypass...It does all of these things for you...
This would be great....except my truck is a ST model and uses the base keys, not the chipped keys....and my dealer told me mine was not can-bus and so a bypass module would do me no good.....sucks!!
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: September 26, 2009 at 11:19 PM
Thanks to ya'll for the resistor help!!! NOW...I have a new problem!! I got the accessory to work just fine...but I can't get the start to kick in. I have tried switching inputs/outputs on the 2 relays and checking connections to make sure it's all getting through and it is....the relay engages as it is supposed too...but I'm thinking the resistor isn't set up right. Can anyone shed any light on this?? Thanks again everyone!!
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 9:58 AM
Was gonna shoot this up one more time for review. I have tried several different resistor combos...ranging from about a 170ish to 190 area of value and nothing wants to engage the starter. I have checked and double checked the relays and it's all correct. What the heck am I doing wrong?? Thanks all!!
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: October 16, 2009 at 1:13 PM
tommy... wrote:
If you use a bypass...It does all of these things for you...
Can you tell me if this will work on my ST model truck?? As I stated above my dealer said it would not work because I do not have chipped keys....but I was thinking the bypass did the ignition bypass (which I don't think I have) and the start/accessory functions as well by connecting in to the data wire on the plug....is this true?? If it is, I'm getting the bypass regardless of what my dealer says. I have tried NUMEROUS combos of the 180 value area, including 180 itself in a few forms and nothing will trip the truck to start. Everything else is just fine, but not the start. Can anyone shed some light on this please? I should have bought another 05...it was simple to do! Thanks all.
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: October 16, 2009 at 1:54 PM
One other question...does the (+) start wire have to be tied in along with the (-) second start wire in order to work? As is, I have the one PURPLE / brown wire for the ACC/2nd start tied to each relay along with the resistor for each function. The ACC wire from the RS unit goes to that relay and the START wire from the RS unit goes to the other relay....do I need to branch off that (+) start wire from the RS unit and tie it into the (+) start wire on the truck for this to work? Thanks!
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: October 17, 2009 at 9:56 AM
Absolutely the (+) start wire needs to be connected. It can be branched as you've described, though it wouldn't hurt to diode isolate the starter wire on the vehicle.
-------------
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 17, 2009 at 10:17 PM
Doesn't matter what trim level you have for the DOdge truck, the truck isn't CANBUS but the start is multiplexed and that's what the bypass module will do for you is take care of all the multiplexed values with just one wire instead of 10 wires and two relays. If the truck doesn't require the chip, then don't program the chip and your good to go. The multiplex portion still has to be done regardless.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 18, 2009 at 8:19 AM
https://documents.audiovox.com/701131.pdf------------- M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 18, 2009 at 8:28 AM
| Battery | | LT.BLU/RED (2AMP) | | (+) | | IGNITION HARNESS | ...LOW CURRENT, FOR HIGH CURRENT APPLICATION GO DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY |  |  | Ignition 1 | | PINK/WHT | | (+) | | IGNITION HARNESS | | | | Ignition 2 | | PINK/GREEN | | (+) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | ...THERE MAY BE NO IGNITION TWO | | | Accessory 1 | | VIOLET/BROWN | | (-) | | SAME AS SECOND STARTER WIRE | ...USE 610 OHM RESISTOR FOR ACCESSORY, SAME WIRE AS STARTER2 | | | Accessory 2 | | PINK / YELLOW | | (+) | | MAY BE NO SECOND ACCESSORY | ...THIS WIRE WILL TURN ON THE ABS LIGHT IF NOT POWERED UP FOR REMOTE START | | | Starter 1 | | DK. GREEN/ YELLOW | | (+) | | IGNITION HARNESS...NOT FOR REMOTE START, USE STARTER2 | | | | Starter 2 | | VIOLET/BRN | | (-) | | IGNITION HARNESS...USE 180 OHM RESISTOR FOR STARTER2, SAME WIRE AS ACCESSORY | | | | Anti-Theft Type | | DAIMLER SENTRY KEY® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER | | | | Anti-Theft Descript | | THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER | | | | Key Sense | | VIOLET/BROWN | | (-) | | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | ...USE AN 8.5K OHM RESISTOR FOR KEYSENSE, SAME WIRE AS STARTER 2 AND ACCESSORY | | | Tachometer | | TAN/RED, OR INJECTOR | | (AC) | | AT IGNITION COIL...ON DIESEL MODELS THE TACH WIRE IS AT THE ECM ON THE LOWER DRIVER SIDE OF THE ENGINE, FRONT 60 PIN PLUG, PIN 24 OR AT THE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR, LEFT OF THE ECM AT THE 3 PIN PLUG. ON SRT-10 MODELS THE TACH WIRE IS ON THE BLACK PLUG - PIN 18. | | | | Speed Sense | | GREEN/ YELLOW | | (AC) | | PCM. IN A BLACK PLUG...PIN 13. FOR SRT-10 MODELS, LOCATED IN A WHITE PLUG, PIN 27 OR OR DK.BLUE/ORANGE. DEISEL MODELS PIN 11 AT THE PCM | | | | Parking Lights | | WHITE/ GREEN | | (-) | | AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH...PARKING LIGHTS ARE NEGATIVE TRIGGER THRU A 1130 OR 250 OHM RESISTOR. MUST USE A RELAY | | | | Brake Lights | | WHITE/ TAN | | (+) | | AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL | | | | Reverse Lights | | WHITE/ LT. GREEN | | (+) | | IN HARNESS, TOP OF DRIVER FENDER | | | | Horn | | GREEN/ VIOLET | | (-) | | STEERING COLUMN HARNESS...OR CLUSTER,GRAY PLUG,PIN 14 | | | | Databus | | WHITE/ ORANGE | | (DATA) | | IN HARNESS AT STEERING COLUMN |
| Door Lock Circuit | | ONE WIRE NEGATIVE SYSTEM | | (-) | | DRIVERS KICK | ... | USE A 2K OHM RESISTOR FOR LOCK, 480 OHM RESISTOR FOR UNLOCK, | ![posted_image]() |
| | |
| | | Databus Wire | | WHITE/ BLUE | | | | Power Unlock | | VIOLET/GREEN | | (-) | | WITHOUT FACTORY SECURITY, DRIVERS KICK, 330 OHMS THRU A RELAY. | ... | | | PowerLock | | VIOLET/GREEN | | (-) | | WITHOUT FACTORY SECURITY, DRIVERS KICK, 820 OHMS THRU A RELAY. | | | | Driver Mtr Unlock | | TAN/LT.GREEN | | | | Driver Mtr Lock | | LT.GREEN |
------------- M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 18, 2009 at 8:34 AM
Here is there factory remote start install guide...might help w/ locations and such... https://documents.codesystems.com/701082.pdf------------- M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: October 19, 2009 at 8:40 AM
Velocity Motors wrote:
Doesn't matter what trim level you have for the DOdge truck, the truck isn't CANBUS but the start is multiplexed and that's what the bypass module will do for you is take care of all the multiplexed values with just one wire instead of 10 wires and two relays. If the truck doesn't require the chip, then don't program the chip and your good to go. The multiplex portion still has to be done regardless.
Thank you much for the info!! What module do ya'll recommend?? My dealer is pushing the Idatalink ADS-AL CA on me...is this the right one?? And just to note...I don't need this to do door locks as I have an aftermarket door kit installed and tied directly to the RS unit....I mainly need this for the ignition and start stuff. Thanks again everyone for the help!!
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 19, 2009 at 9:25 AM
The module you want is the ADS-TBSL C2 and wire up the mulitplex portion of the harness but don't worry about the ignition cylnder part.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: October 19, 2009 at 4:13 PM
Velocity Motors wrote:
The module you want is the ADS-TBSL C2 and wire up the mulitplex portion of the harness but don't worry about the ignition cylnder part.
OK, Thanks again. And as I asked earlier, does the (+) from the RS unit still get connected to the positive start wire on the dash harness? Reason it has me confused is that the diagrams all have said not to use but I have had 2 installers say to hook it up and one here said to hook it up....so does it tie in or leave alone? Thanks again everyone!
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 19, 2009 at 4:43 PM
If the starter wire is present in the harness, then hook it up. If there is no starter wire, then nothing needs to be done.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: syl20rochon
Date Posted: October 19, 2009 at 6:53 PM
It is without a dought the perfect one, it is data bus controlled and requires only one key for programming and no loops around the antenna. I'm doing a Ram 2007 tomorrow morning with that bypass and after benching my initial connections, I have 7 wires to connect in the truck. +12v, ground, parking lights, horn, 2 data wires....oh that's right, a pin switch cause the module gives me the tach output......incredible. ------------- Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: November 17, 2009 at 10:06 PM
Velocity Motors wrote:
The module you want is the ADS-TBSL C2 and wire up the mulitplex portion of the harness but don't worry about the ignition cylnder part.
OK ya'll....AGAIN I am asking for help! This thing is driving me nuts!! I got the module above a few weeks ago and just haven't had time to put it in. Well I did finally and I can't seem to get it to program. I got the program set for the vehicle type but thats it. Will it not enter the other programming stage since I am not using the ignition cylinder part?? Without using or doing this and JUST setting the vehicle type, is the module automatically set for the values for the 2nd accessory and etc? Reason I ask is it doesn't seem to be activating the accessory upon hitting the start up sequence?? I'm just lost and it's really getting to me....I have NEVER had this much trouble with any vehicle I have done!!! Thanks to everyone for the help!!
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 7:58 AM
If the rmeote start is not capable of controlling the module with D2D through the RS232 wire, you may have to wire it up in standard W2W method. If the module's LED is not turning GREEN when remote started, then the module is not activating hence no start. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 9:01 PM
Velocity Motors wrote:
If the rmeote start is not capable of controlling the module with D2D through the RS232 wire, you may have to wire it up in standard W2W method. If the module's LED is not turning GREEN when remote started, then the module is not activating hence no start.
That is correct...no green on start or anything. So wire it direct and see if that makes a difference...will do. And just to confirm, not using the igntion ring won't have anything to do with it not programming?? Thanks again!!
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 9:16 PM
paul h wrote:
So wire it direct and see if that makes a difference...will do. And just to confirm, not using the igntion ring won't have anything to do with it not programming?? Thanks again!!
Correct, with the new firmware, there's no need for the C2 ring for the J1850 immobilizer bypass modules ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 9:20 PM
Velocity Motors wrote:
paul h wrote:
So wire it direct and see if that makes a difference...will do. And just to confirm, not using the igntion ring won't have anything to do with it not programming?? Thanks again!!
Correct, with the new firmware, there's no need for the C2 ring for the J1850 immobilizer bypass modules
Thanks Jeff. I'll give it a try tomorrow.
Posted By: paul h
Date Posted: November 27, 2009 at 8:36 PM
Well.....an update! I got it to start finally but I still don't think the module is performing correctly. When I engage the remote start...the LED on the ADS module starts blinking and thats it. Also...I set up the ADS for direct wired, but it didn't go to the next step to program the correct vehicle, either 1 or 2 blinks. I did a master reset and started over and still nothing.... When I engage the RS, the ACC (A/C fan, etc) kicks on for a split second and then off and doesn't come back on until I put the key in. Is it possible I have a bad module??
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