r/s check engine problem, safari 2005

Hi, I have installed my security device and r/s on my van. Almost everything went well, all wire soldered too. I had the wiring diagram provided by autostart for my 2005 GMC Safari.

No door lock no nothing just the basic stuff. The alarm section works well. I have wired in the r/s, the unit crank the engine and the engine start well like it is supposed. But once the engine running, a check engine lights. I tried to go anyway with the lights on but it has been like the speed changed correctly in the tranny but it was like it has rest in the 4th speep and never went down again. No need to say it is imposible to drive with a turtle... So i stop on the side and I cut the tach wire from the brain. Start the engine again, check engine still on but problem disappeared. the light went off after something like 50 km of driving. I tried again to wire it two days after with the same result.

I have a Nordic Start NS5050TW-FM and i know it is working as it was installed in my previous van. I have reset it and relearn the tach signal also at the installation.

The wiring diagram say to wire the purple tach signal from the brain to the white wire coming of the PCM, beside the battery tray. But there is two white wire and both of them have frequency when the engine running. Frequency check with my meter at ac, black lead on the vehicle ground and red lead on to the wire.

anyone knows whats is the deal? Did i take the wrong white wire from the PCM? I did not try to wire in the other white since this is not my van and i would be disappointed to pay a new PCM or something.

Thanks in advance for any help

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Dwaive

Did you hook up both ignition wires? If not, that would trip the check engine light during r/s.

Battery		RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 1		PINK		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 2		BROWN		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Accessory 1		ORANGE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Starter 1		YELLOW		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Anti-Theft Type		GM PASSLOCK II® ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM
	Anti-Theft Descript		THE BCM MODULE MUST SEE A SPECIFIC RESISTANCE VALUE BEFORE THE VEHICLE WILL START PROPERLY
	Key Sense		LIGHT GREEN		(-)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Tachometer		WHITE		(AC)		AT MODULE NEAR VEHICLE BATTERY
	Speed Sense		GREEN / WHITE		(AC)		IN HARNESS ON DRIVERS SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT
	Parking Lights		BROWN		(+)		AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH
	Brake Lights		WHITE		(+)		AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
	Reverse Lights		LIGHT GREEN		(+)		MAIN HARNESS ON DRIVER SIDE FIREWALL

Are these the wires you had...Make sure you connect ALL Ignition and Accessory wires...! When you did disconnect the tach wire...That is all you took off...Or unplugged everything...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

I have only one ignition wire on the the r/s so i have connected only the yellow from the brain to the pink on ignition harness. Should i connect the yellow from the r/s to the pink and onto the white (ignition 2) also?

This is my first installation so I am kind of learning.

also, I have disconnected only the tach wire and stop using the r/s function while I figured what is the problem.

On my wiring diagram, the yellow, red, orange, purple and red. The green (5th relay) is not used.

On the second harness, the black, purple (the one i have disconnect for the moment), grey, orange and yellow are all connected.

on the third harness, the only wire used are the grey and purple for the siren and the door sensoring

I have the ADS-TBSL-PL to bypass the security, which is working well.

Is it possible that the tach wire is disturbing the tach signal going to the PCM and make false reading of the engine rpm therefore preventing accurate speed selection for the tranny?

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Dwaive

You need to hook up the green wire(5th relay) for your 2nd ignition.  Then you need to set your jumper on the module to ignition 2. 

Ok i will try this.

Just to be sure: when i used the remote starter, the engine crank and start correctly then the starter disengaged. If i push the brakes of open the hood, engine stops. acording to this, the unit works but a check engine pops while the engine is running. So it is not related to the tach wire hooked on the white wire at the pcm?

Thanks for all the help yet. Answer are very quick on the forums. Very appreciated and helpful

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Dwaive

Ok I did connect the green wire from the r/s to the brown (ignition 2) even if in my wiring diagram from autostart said it as a white wire. Tommy was right about the color. But the check engine light has pops again at the second remote start attempt. the first attempt was fine.

On Tommy   wiring diagram, he say that the tach signal comes from the white wire at the PCM. I have two white at the PCM. Could I have picked the wrong? Could it be a bad learning of the signal? I'm puzzled

Does someone knows what could it be?

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Dwaive

If you had the wrong white wire, then the tach shouldn't have been able to program.

Ok, I thought the above wiring diagram was wrong. Here's the correct ignition wiring for that vehicle according to Directechs (which I've used on MANY GM vehicles):

12- Red, RED / white
Starter-            Yellow
Ignition-           pink
Second Ignition-    white
Accessory-          orange
Second Accessory-   brown

Make sure you at least power up both the pink and white wires. That should get rid of your check engine light problem. I've never done a remote start that didn't power up all the ignition and accessory wires though, and I recommend you do the same.

In fact, here's the wiring info from this website confirming Directechs: 05 GMC Sierra

I'm still puzzled. The only white I have is in the steering column harness. In the ignition harness I have a brown which is the same gauge as the +12V, accessory, etc.. The white is in a smalller gauge, looks like a 20gauge  and the brown looks more like a 12 or 10 gauge. I did not try the white to see if there is +12V when I put the key switch at on. Also it is a Safari van. Thanks

I will look if the brown I hook the second ignition shows +12V at accessory position on key switch.

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Dwaive

Oops, sorry about that. But the Sierra and Safari have the same wiring colors. And the Directechs I listed was an 05 Safari van.

I can't picture the Safari wiring. However I know in the Chevy/GMC trucks the ignition wires split off after leaving the steering column right behind the metal plate. It's always been a large awg white wire in that year, and I can't see it being different in the van. It might be a good idea to remove the steering shroud so you can access the wires directly out of the key cylindar. And as always, be sure to test the wires to make sure you have the correct one's.

I will do that and come back later to say what I found. Thanks

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Dwaive

Ok, the big brown is for the accessory from the key switch. I found the second ignition (White) and hook my green on it. No more check engine. Thanks. Another thing is the white where I hook my tach is the white going from the PCM to the AT 3/2 solenoid. That would explain why I have reach the third and then stay on the third speed forever.

I have reset the unit to be able to perform a new learn on the second white wire at the PCM. Never been able to do a learn on it. There is a section in this forum that speak about the tach signal and it says that I can use the signal form the injector, which I try but didn't seem to learn either. I am puzzled about it.

My rs have a function called  virtual tach system (VTS) and I can see that the engine start  anyway without the tach signal. Do you know if the VTS works only without a proper tach learn form a physical signal and that it would no longer work if I a good tach learn is perform? Let say that I have learned the tach and by some reason the wire cuts and no more signal from the tach. Will the VTS work and permits the engine to start anyway?

Thanks again. I will use the RS with VTS for now but winter is coming and maybe I will have trouble to remote start the engine then and it will be necessay to have a physical tach signal? Am I of track?

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Dwaive